The Halogen Lamp Atomiser Mod

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aaa

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Oct 19, 2008
81
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Budapest, Hungary
Hello everybody, nice to be here again :)

I happened to make a halogen lamp mod for the e-cig, here are some details:

Objective:
- to replace the frequently dying atomisers with some other means that can evaporate e-liquid

Done:
- replaced the internals of the atomiser (actually, two atomisers) with a halogen lamp and wire mesh

Result, pro:
- fairly good vapour
- no more short living, expensive atomisers
- cheap and long-life halogen lamp used (cca. 2 EUR, 4000h)
- easy replacement of the lamp if it fails
- compatible with 4 AA battery pack and USB mod
- electrical and mechanical parts completely separated, easy cleaning of the latter

Result, con:
- ugly
- not compatible with original e-cig batteries
- only dripping is possible, no more cartidges, either, only their mouthpeace needed
- slow heating up; about 30s before the first puff
- produces a lot of heat during operation

Tools needed for the mod:
- soldering iron
- screwdriver
- knife

Components needed for the mod:
- two empty atomiser housings
- G4 halogen lamp cap with two wires of cca 1.5cm length (>1mm2)
- 6V 10W halogen lamp
- 10cm piece of a coaxial cable with stainless steel braided screening inside
- cartridge mouthpeace
- rubber ring with cca. 9-10mm diameter
- cca 20cm long self-adhesive insulating tape

How to make the mod:
A. Electrical part:
1. Push the rubber ring onto the G4 lampholder (it will keep the lampholder in place inside the atomiser housing)
2. Connect (solder) the lampholder with the two 1.5 cm long wires to the contact of the atomiser
3. Push the electrical part assembled above in one of the atomiser housings. The halogen lamp will project out by cca. 5mm, that is OK.
B. Mechanical part:
4. Blank the coaxial cable, remove the steel screening braid consisting of thin wires,
5. "Massage" the wires, until you get a cilindrical wire bundle having a diameter of cca 10mm and a length of cca 10-15mm. You could form a little nest on one end of the bundle for the lamp, for better efficiency
6. Push the wire bundle in the other atomiser housing
C. Final assembly:
7. Push the two atomiser housings together
8. Wrap the two atomiser parts in self-adhesive insulating tape separately (it will protect your fingers from heat)
9. Push in the mouthpiece
10. Connect (screw in) the USB modded supply
11. Vape

It is a DIY solution, there is much room for improvement I know, but it is complete, and it works.
I do not spend any more money for the original, expensive batteries or atomisers, just vape from USB port or the AA battery pack.

Good vaping!
 
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aaa

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Oct 19, 2008
81
0
Budapest, Hungary
Here are two photos:
(sorry for the bad quality, but they were taken at lamp light, and my mobile is not quite sensitive)
Components and assembly:
214401_7c1608d54d.jpg


Assembled:
214402_0b5900efda.jpg


As for the supply: yes, it is two times as thirsty for energy as the original atomiser.
But it is not an issue when supplied from USB or a battery pack (one battery set can supply it whilst the other is charged).

Anyway, energy efficiency should, and I think could be improved by:
- a larger housing where there is room for heat insulation,
- a smaller heating compartment inside,
- to where the liquid is still efficiently delivered by some means (I am playing with the idea of some parallel capillar tubes cut out of syringe tips, but I fear that those could be easily stucked at the required small hole diameter of cca. 0.2-0.3mm, plus a sponge would be needed to suck the liquid out of the tubes),
- heat reflectors, focused to a small area
- quatz lamp (instead of the halogen lamp), that emits heat rather than light (I think those are not available in such small size:()

By the way, do not use a more expensive special (optical) halogen lamp for this mod, as those have shorter life, and emit light rather than heat. A common, cheap halogen lamp is much better at heating, and has 40 times as long life.
 
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aaa

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Oct 19, 2008
81
0
Budapest, Hungary
Yeah, one should always carefully count nicotine dose, either with cartridges of the original DSE 901 or with the e-liquid drips vaped using this mod.

By the way, the "shotgun" produces really nice vapour, but it uses water (boiling temp.: 100C), whilst we use propylene glycol (188C). Besides, there is a lot of plastics inside, and is powered from 8 batteries...
 
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lzx

Full Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 16, 2008
12
0
czech republic
Yeah, one should always carefully count nicotine dose, either with cartridges of the original DSE 901 or with the e-liquid drips vaped using this mod.

By the way, the "shotgun" produces really nice vapour, but it uses water (boiling temp.: 100C), whilst we use propylene glycol (188C). Besides, there is a lot of plastics inside, and is powered from 8 batteries...

Q: What is in the fluid?
A: A water based non-toxic liquid that is similar to the fluid used in special effects fog machines. The Fluid consists of Distilled Water, Glycerin (a USP kosher food additive) and Propylene Glycol (a USP kosher food additive). For more information view the Material Safety Data: sheet 1, sheet 2, sheet 3.

so the wizard stick works on same principle like e cig atomiser it's only bigger

madog say>
"UPDATE Well - BUT the atomizer in this thing gets WAY to hot. The juice tastes like crap and it actually spits it out the top somtimes - Un Vaporized"

so this is only technical problem i think :)
 

aaa

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Oct 19, 2008
81
0
Budapest, Hungary
"UPDATE Well - BUT the atomizer in this thing gets WAY to hot. The juice tastes like crap and it actually spits it out the top somtimes - Un Vaporized"

so this is only technical problem i think

Really?
Then put in fewer batteries, and disconnect the fan.

Any more "only technical problems"?

I would say it still makes a greater difference if you drink water with just a little propylene glycol, or you drink propylene glycol, with just a little water. Do not you think so?
 
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lzx

Full Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 16, 2008
12
0
czech republic
Really?
Then put in fewer batteries, and disconnect the fan.

Any more "only technical problems"?

I would say it still makes a greater difference if you drink water with just a little propylene glycol, or you drink propylene glycol, with just a little water. Do not you think so?


yop is up to you what u put inside :) i prefer glycerine with extra clean hash oil :D
 

Rob Bart

New Member
Mar 24, 2009
1
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The modded device is still working fine. I kept it switched on two times for hours, and the lamp died in each case, but no other harm occured; no melting or burning. So, I just replaced the lamp in some seconds, and it worked again.

No such failure occured, yet, in intermittent operation.
Hi aaa,
Saw this post, and I think its a great idea... How did you make the modded USB power supply.. I'd like to give this a go.... Atomizers only last about 2 weeks for me; and its getting expensive...
 
aaa - just wondered by you went with a 10W bulb rather than a 4W or 5W bulb, which would be enough, or would it ? Seems you are heating juice on the wire bundle, perhaps that's why need extra power. Why not heat juice on the glass of the bulb? Or would this cause the glass to break (I can see it might).

Glad you tested this out and shown that it can work, just needs some more work. Well done and thanks for sharing.
 

aaa

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Oct 19, 2008
81
0
Budapest, Hungary
Bart:
How did you make the modded USB power supply..

It is supplied from the USB port directly, so there is no separate power supply.

Kinabaloo:
just wondered by you went with a 10W bulb rather than a 4W or 5W bulb

This mod uses the housing of the pen-type e-cigs, which are small, and thus cannot accommodate a good heat insulation or heat reflecting lens. A lot of heat is wasted this way, therefore I do not know if an 5W halogen lamp could provide enough heat in this setup. I have not tried it yet.

I am totally convinced, however, that if the e-liquid could be reliably conveyed very close to the lamp bulb, and heat waste could be reduced by insulation, then a 5W, or an even lower wattage halogen lamp would do. After all, there is a temperature of more than 2000°C inside the bulb :)
Only the delay to heat up to that temperature would be even longer with lower wattages.

One day I will try. But my 10W, 4000h halogen lamp does not want to die, though it is switched on through the whole working day for months now:)

By the way: there is no visible vapour leaving through the mouthpeace when you keep it switched on and you do not vape for a long time. I do not know why. Maybe the e-liquid just circulates between the hotter and cooler areas inside the housing (in liquid and vapour form). Anyway, ever since I noticed this, I never switch it off, except when I leave for a longer time. Special halogen lamps, however, would die in continuous operation. So, this is the case, when the cheapest is the better.
 
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