I make my own attys with the Bulli-A2-TM... The consistentcy (As aziffel pointed out
) is what makes the Kick a great vape with the Bulli-Smoker. @ 7 watts, I'm blowing plumes of vapor & nice flavor from one battery change to the next. 
The Kick by Evolv--Coming to Super-T!
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I make my own attys with the Bulli-A2-TM... The consistentcy (As aziffel pointed out
) is what makes the Kick a great vape with the Bulli-Smoker. @ 7 watts, I'm blowing plumes of vapor & nice flavor from one battery change to the next. 
You will, as you have already seen, get various responses to this question. In the final analysis, there are too many variables to give a consistent answer. This is because there are too many inconsistent variables. The Kick is the first module to go into a variety of devices. Those devices vary in conductive efficiency and those variances are outside of Evolv's control. Kick boosts which uses more Amps (and amps ARE batt life) and various resistances use different amps levels at different boost/voltage levels too. Age and condition of batts, how they are charged (chargers), how frequently they are charged and how far they are run down between charges and finally aggregate button time (someone who averages 2 minutes of activation button time per hour will get more hours than someone who averages 4 minutes of button time per hour). As no two vapers or vaping combinations will be exactly the same, there is no way to give an accurate answer beyond rough averages.
That said, using AW IMR 18490 in a Silver Bullet kicked at about 8.5 watts and using a Boge 801 style standard resistance carto - I AVERAGE between 5 to 6 hours per charge. As car manufacturers are fond of saying "... milage may vary..." Hope this is somehow helpful.
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Exactly
I vape 3mls a day through a 2.2 ohm atty at 9.5 watts and a 18490 lasts me a full day. Switch to a 1.6 ohm 306 atty at 9.5 watts and I go through 3 batteries in 2 day's. My buddy vapes 6mls at 7 watts through a LR dual coil carto and he goes through 3 batteries a day. Your mileage will vary
Your best bet with the kick is to use a standard resistance 3ohm ish carto or atty that way your still within the kick voltages limits and your drawing less current out of the battery.
Ok I just put my kick in my super t 18500 and I'm wondering if anyone else has this problem or knows what's going.
It now takes considerable pressure on the button to get it to fire, if I just put regular pressure on the button it won't fire the atty but I can hear the kick clicking( like listing to a second hand on a watch).
Also I know I well be taking this in and out a lot changing batteries and all and I'm a little worried that the threads well wear on that little spring, is there a way everyone is taking it out that minimizes the potential damage on that spring?
It now takes considerable pressure on the button to get it to fire, if I just put regular pressure on the button it won't fire the atty but I can hear the kick clicking( like listing to a second hand on a watch).
Also I know I well be taking this in and out a lot changing batteries and all and I'm a little worried that the threads well wear on that little spring, is there a way everyone is taking it out that minimizes the potential damage on that spring?
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Occasionally I too had fits using the Kick in my PrecisePluses but things have settled down.
I don't know exactly how you have your 18500 set up, so if you haven't already watch The Kick by Evolv: Kicking the PrecisePlus from Super-T Manufacturing - YouTube . The exact setup that David demonstrates works the best for me - one thin o-ring under the battery, one #12 o-ring around the top cap, and I use one switch washer. Make sure the switch post & washer is good and tight, and make sure the spring is clean and seated well on the switch assembly.
The Kick seems to like things very clean. See that the Kick's top and bottom contacts are free from dirt/corrosion, wipe off your P+'s contacts with a soft clean cloth, and also check that both the positive and negative terminals of your batteries are clean.
Once I got things sorted out my 18500 has been performing great with the Kick, but I was sure irritated at first.
Good luck.
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I got my kick yesterday...I'm using imr 18500's and a indulgence v3...with alittle bit of business card magic I made the kick fit snug so the coil would be properly grounded...but with my brand new 1100mah imrs I'm only getting 2 hours of battery life on 8.0-8.5 watts...bad batteries?
Thanks for the help, I well set it up that way when i get home and see how it does. I was hoping to have the best of both worlds and tried it set up as i had it, for the 18490. Its that clicking that's throwing me off, I would think it means the battery is making contact with the kick and I know the top was touching the top post of the kick. Oh well I'll figure it out
Erm, the only way I figured out how to have the best of both worlds is to have two of 'em. 
Oh, and the Kick's spring, I don't know what to tell you. What I can say is I've had mine for quite awhile now with many battery changes, and I'm pretty rough with it cramming it in and shaking it out and it's all still good.
I had the Kick in a different stupid mod which decided to unlock itself and start firing in my pocket. By the time my leg started to sear, the Kick was hotter than hell and I figured it was a goner. But it's okay. The Kick has turned out to be much sturdier than I imagined.
Oh, and the Kick's spring, I don't know what to tell you. What I can say is I've had mine for quite awhile now with many battery changes, and I'm pretty rough with it cramming it in and shaking it out and it's all still good.
I had the Kick in a different stupid mod which decided to unlock itself and start firing in my pocket. By the time my leg started to sear, the Kick was hotter than hell and I figured it was a goner. But it's okay. The Kick has turned out to be much sturdier than I imagined.
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i have a different problem using the Kick with my P+500... i replaced the orings at the bottom with the thinner one provided and also put o-ring on the top cap... drop in an 18350 AW IMR battery and screw on the cap... right away i could tell something was wrong because the bottom firing button didn't have any "play" in it (i.e. can't push the button as i'm guessing the battery + kick fits so tightly in the tube)... i put on my atty and sure enough it starts firing without me even pressing on the button... the only way i can get it to stop firing is to loosen the top cap significantly... anyone else ran into this problem and have suggestions?
Thanks!
Thanks!
How many washers do you have on the switch post? I have just one.
My 2 new AW 18490's from Super T seem to be a tad shorter than my 6 month old ones. My old ones work fine with kick and 1 thick O ring while the new ones wiggle around and actually move a hair when I press the switch. So I tried adding a small O ring but that would be way too tight. I found 2 small O rings to be perfect but a tad tight for my old ones 
i had to fiddle around with my P+500 as well. replacing the two fat orings in the tube with a thin one made the batteries too loose and required excessive force to fire the button and make a connection. so i swapped out the thinner oring with a fat one and that seemed to work. you may have to fiddle around with the number of metal washers as well to get the best connection.
however, today, a strange thing happened. i noticed that my tank was leaking, so i picked up my P+ and the battery mod was HOT. Even the carto was super hot when i took off my tank. Any clues as to why? I'm guessing there was a short somehow? If so, how do I prevent that?
however, today, a strange thing happened. i noticed that my tank was leaking, so i picked up my P+ and the battery mod was HOT. Even the carto was super hot when i took off my tank. Any clues as to why? I'm guessing there was a short somehow? If so, how do I prevent that?
My 2 new AW 18490's from Super T seem to be a tad shorter than my 6 month old ones. My old ones work fine with kick and 1 thick O ring while the new ones wiggle around and actually move a hair when I press the switch. So I tried adding a small O ring but that would be way too tight. I found 2 small O rings to be perfect but a tad tight for my old ones
Snoopy:
Make sure the atty/ carto/ tank/ whatever you're using is never over-tightened. Sometimes the rubber grommet/ ring down the attie may break if you do so, leading to chaos (short), so check for this. These atties/ cartos with a "broken seal" down the threads are likely to cause shorts over and over so they are best disposed.
Make sure to avoid over-tightening in the future...
And last but not least, also make sure to lock your P+ when not in use; this way you'll know it won't self-activate and overheat or short out of sight if overtightened.
=)
Make sure the atty/ carto/ tank/ whatever you're using is never over-tightened. Sometimes the rubber grommet/ ring down the attie may break if you do so, leading to chaos (short), so check for this. These atties/ cartos with a "broken seal" down the threads are likely to cause shorts over and over so they are best disposed.
Make sure to avoid over-tightening in the future...
And last but not least, also make sure to lock your P+ when not in use; this way you'll know it won't self-activate and overheat or short out of sight if overtightened.
=)
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I just got my kick in the mail on friday.
I gave it a good look over before i installed it and it honestly looks used?????? Works perfectly fine but the bottom heat sink is all tarneshed and odd looking...like it was overheated or something...also the guts are slanted in the shrink wrap material so it doesnt sit flush...very odd to me.....not sure how everyone else's looked out of the box.
I just found this extremely strange.
I will compare it to the next one i have ordered and see if its the same.
I doubt dave sent me a used one lol...probably poor quailty control on evolvs end.
I gave it a good look over before i installed it and it honestly looks used?????? Works perfectly fine but the bottom heat sink is all tarneshed and odd looking...like it was overheated or something...also the guts are slanted in the shrink wrap material so it doesnt sit flush...very odd to me.....not sure how everyone else's looked out of the box.
I just found this extremely strange.
I will compare it to the next one i have ordered and see if its the same.
I doubt dave sent me a used one lol...probably poor quailty control on evolvs end.
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