You can press and hold the button while you are screwing down the atty. When you hear the atty fire, release the button and screw down the atty another quarter to a half turn.
NEW MODS!! The PrecisePlus 18500 & 18350.
- Thread starter forcedfuel50
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Thanks aziffel and Vaporologist for the feedback! I still classify myself as a newbie.
My vape mate should be here tomorrow. I'm kind of worried because I'm so use to using cartos , how does this work? Any pointers would be appreciated. I have a feeling that once I get use to it that's all I'll want to use.
Any idea when the kick will be here?
I'm pretty new to the VapeMate but it was a snap to learn, though I'm fairly experienced dripping on an atty as well as squonking on a Reo.
In the instructions that come with it is the suggestion to put some water in the bottle and practice squonking the bottle without the atty attached so you can see how much liquid poots out. That suggestion helped me a lot. Others may have more tips including the use of a tube inside the bottle but I haven't felt the need.
I've gone through 25 mls on my first Vapemate and have another arriving tomorrow.
Right, the best way to understand the vape mate is with a bottle of water and just practice for a bit not attached to the atty. Once you get used to the vape mate on a standard atomizer I doubt you will ever want to use a carto again. I recently began testing a new carto tank system and just cant get past the filler material flavor. Don't try the tube inside the bottle. When the VM first came out I immediately tried the tube and had trouble controlling the amount of juice coming from the bottle and it wasn't until taking the tube out I stopped flooding the atty.
You'll get used to it quickly, most people do. One of the best parts of the VM is that is serves as a nice little pocket hanger. My device is protected inside my pocket and the bottle hangs out giving me something to pull the device out with.
You'll get used to it quickly, most people do. One of the best parts of the VM is that is serves as a nice little pocket hanger. My device is protected inside my pocket and the bottle hangs out giving me something to pull the device out with.
Hello folks, have a question about configuration on the P+ 18650. To use the protected 18650 batt 2600mah are you guys using one washer and the thicker 0-ring or one washer and the thin o-ring or what's the best way to do this to get the best connection? Right now I'm using the thick o-ring and one washer and there is a miniscule gap when screwing on the top but I don't want to take it all apart again if this is the right way to do it. Thanks!
I run the thick o-ring and NO washer under my contact post. When screwing down the top cap you should just keep tightening it down and that compresses the rubber o-ring and keeps the battery nice and tight. Also keeps the cap from backing out. I don't run a washer to help with accidental misfires because the button has to travel farther into the horns.
Thanks for the tips Vapn, I wasn't tightening the top cap enough, now it's perfect.
Ok, the above post officially holds my all time record for thread killing. Over a month!
Thanks wfarrar!
Just to give you an idea of how small the PrecisePlus 18350 is, heres a pic of it next to an AW 18650 battery!
Great size, so coooooooooooooooool............
David:
Just out of curiosity... I was wondering if there is a "key factor" -as in a reason/ series of reasons or similar- behind the size to the PP's "drip well"...
I think it is perfect, and I love it; that's why I'm so concerned about it, haaaaa...!!!
And I think I might have read something about the "logics" to the size, but wouldn't remeber; please fill me in!
=)
Or others, as well; if you remember/ know.
I was under the assumption that even though it is perfect, being a bit bigger might be even better, but then got to consider it may not be that functional because if it was deeper/ had a wider diameter, then, maybe liquid would not instantly flow back into the atty and could accumulate and this could, in return, end up being counter-productive; And thought this made sense and kinda remembered reading something about it, but I am not sure...
Thanks.
Just out of curiosity... I was wondering if there is a "key factor" -as in a reason/ series of reasons or similar- behind the size to the PP's "drip well"...
I think it is perfect, and I love it; that's why I'm so concerned about it, haaaaa...!!!
And I think I might have read something about the "logics" to the size, but wouldn't remeber; please fill me in!
=)
Or others, as well; if you remember/ know.
I was under the assumption that even though it is perfect, being a bit bigger might be even better, but then got to consider it may not be that functional because if it was deeper/ had a wider diameter, then, maybe liquid would not instantly flow back into the atty and could accumulate and this could, in return, end up being counter-productive; And thought this made sense and kinda remembered reading something about it, but I am not sure...
Thanks.
The size of the drip well is largely dictated by the atomizer. As we've seen, atomizer base diameters have grown (ever held an XXXL catomizer?) We try to maintain a clean, smooth juice well with minimal gap.
Ok... I see... But what is the criteria behind such a minimal gap design... !? Is it because it results into a more functional well, recirculating-liquid-wise, or similar? Or some other reason? Could it, in theory, be a bit wider/ deeper/ bigger and still practical !?
Ohhh, and one more question on a different note; one I am also very curious about:
What will happen with the PrecisePlus line in light of ECF's standards for a mod to be considered officially safer in the forum... !?
Super curious.
Ohhh, and one more question on a different note; one I am also very curious about:
What will happen with the PrecisePlus line in light of ECF's standards for a mod to be considered officially safer in the forum... !?
Super curious.
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My criteria on wells is so that they fit the majority of tanks and atomizers while still keeping it clean looking.
ON the ECF's standards for a safe mod, particularily the vents; they were proposed by a non- mod maker and have not even been tested, so I only will be taking them under consideration. I do not consider them to be any safer then current vent designs given they are untested (doesn't mean they are or aren't safer, it just means they havent' been tested, so no one should be making any claims on them).
The proposed vents by ECF is what was put on my shockwave prototype about a year ago, see pic below:
I actually wouldn't mind having vents that big on the P+.... i think it would look cool, as long as my Kick isn't exposed.
I've already reapplied clear heat shrink to the IMR's, not a fan of the RED shrink showing.
I may need to find me some different colors for battery shrink
I have my own theory on MOD vents and where they should actually be placed, but this isn't the place to discuss that.
But anyways, Keep up the good work!
What are the proposed vents supposed to do, anyway? If the battery explodes, instead of exploding PV you've still got exploding battery and a missing thumb. Neither of those situations is pleasant, I'm sure. I would think the safest thing to do would be to try to direct the explosion away from the user's face and neck. Vents in the bottom cap would be better, and a pop-down bottom cap to ensure that the explosion gets partially absorbed and goes the direction you want. Wouldn't it?
On the other hand, I guess the recoil of an explodey PV could be just as bad, so David's placement in the P+ is probably as good as any. How do overpriced flash light manufacturers handle venting? Has anyone ever crash test dummied a PV?
On the other hand, I guess the recoil of an explodey PV could be just as bad, so David's placement in the P+ is probably as good as any. How do overpriced flash light manufacturers handle venting? Has anyone ever crash test dummied a PV?
rojo,
batteries dont just go boom, they vent from the positive end.
the gas build up in a mod is what causes your mod to go boom. the vents are there to prevent your mod from turning into shrapnel.
at most , you are going to be stuck with a P+ that will smell really bad for a while... i cant say the same for a crappy plastic box mod. The heat generated from a venting battery, plus any chemicals that would seep out would just ruin the plastic.
my experience with batteries venting and going thermal are RC related.
where i was dealing with a 5000mAh/11.1V/60C max rated Li-po pack.
That was not fun, considering the amount of stored energy .
But still no large boom (as i was expecting) just a boat in the middle of the water, with a completely melted canopy.
Compared to what we use in out PV's, the most you will get is a slow hissing sound... lol.
if the MOD is vented of coarse.
(had a few of those, don't keep cells mixed in with your tools)
Just my thoughts, take it for what it is.
batteries dont just go boom, they vent from the positive end.
the gas build up in a mod is what causes your mod to go boom. the vents are there to prevent your mod from turning into shrapnel.
at most , you are going to be stuck with a P+ that will smell really bad for a while... i cant say the same for a crappy plastic box mod. The heat generated from a venting battery, plus any chemicals that would seep out would just ruin the plastic.
my experience with batteries venting and going thermal are RC related.
where i was dealing with a 5000mAh/11.1V/60C max rated Li-po pack.
That was not fun, considering the amount of stored energy .
But still no large boom (as i was expecting) just a boat in the middle of the water, with a completely melted canopy.
Compared to what we use in out PV's, the most you will get is a slow hissing sound... lol.
if the MOD is vented of coarse.
(had a few of those, don't keep cells mixed in with your tools)
Just my thoughts, take it for what it is.
I may be wrong, but this is just my theory.
considering that a battery swells up before it vents & the fact that it vents from the top. I am not so sure that the current design in any mod set properly for battery venting.
I would assume that the mod vents should be near the positive end, because having them down near the negative end becomes useless when the battery swells up and blocks any air within the tube.
the only real way to solve this issue is to flute the inside of the mod for air flow , or relocate the vents on a mod near the venting side of the battery.
FYI: this still doesn't scare me, because i know that a battery will get extremely hot before it vents, and any person with feelings in their hands will be able to feel a tube mod get uncomfortably hot well before the battery's failing point.
If this happens, just take the mod apart and store the battery in a fire proof bag (Google, lithium charging bag) until the battery has had time to cool down.
Geeze that was a long rant.
forcedfuel50, if i am out of line for posting this here then i will take it down at your request.
considering that a battery swells up before it vents & the fact that it vents from the top. I am not so sure that the current design in any mod set properly for battery venting.
I would assume that the mod vents should be near the positive end, because having them down near the negative end becomes useless when the battery swells up and blocks any air within the tube.
the only real way to solve this issue is to flute the inside of the mod for air flow , or relocate the vents on a mod near the venting side of the battery.
FYI: this still doesn't scare me, because i know that a battery will get extremely hot before it vents, and any person with feelings in their hands will be able to feel a tube mod get uncomfortably hot well before the battery's failing point.
If this happens, just take the mod apart and store the battery in a fire proof bag (Google, lithium charging bag) until the battery has had time to cool down.
Geeze that was a long rant.
forcedfuel50, if i am out of line for posting this here then i will take it down at your request.
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