The Kick by Evolv--Coming to Super-T!
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Thanks Snork
I figured its just how they are.....When you see the pics on the evolv webpage its a perfect prototype i guess lol
I figured its just how they are.....When you see the pics on the evolv webpage its a perfect prototype i guess lol
The contacts are brass and brass tarnishes quickly. Wished they would have used something plated instead but hey it is what it is. The people building them for evolve build regulators for robot and rc aircraft Dimension Engineering - R/C, Power Electronics, Sensors They build quality stuff as I have been using them for years for my RC planes without a single problem. I know they look not finished but remember they are built by a company that builds hobbyist products which are built for doing a job and nothing more 
No David would never send a used one out... Thats how they look, its the brass oxidizing... And the shrink wrap on mine was good on one side but the other side it barley held on.....
I got a kick in my SS GGTS, running at approx. 7.75 watts with a AW IMR 18650. For a while I thought I had a bad connection somewhere but after cleaning everything twice it turns out the kick is just shutting down when the batts get down to 3.85 to 4v. Works great with a fresh charged batt at 4.2v, for a little while. Anyone got any suggestions, it's hardly worth using changing out batts at 4v.
Clean clean clean. Button interior threads tube insides ect. On my SSGGTS with SS tele I can get it to about 3.8 before stutter fire and about 3.7 before no fire at all. Same GGTS with Brass Tele 3.75ish before stutter and 3.6 before dead.
Also which springs are you using? I have noticed personally the brass springs (bat and button) seem to work best.
I have the fuse kit in, so no spring on the bottom cap and I have the 2012 hex button so whatever springs in there. I also have the brass tele. I guess I'll have to do a complete teardown and a good cleaning. I guess vaseline on the threads needs to go too?
2012 should be brass or the new spring either is good however if you havn't cleaned in there I would check it out. As for vasoline since using my kick I removed it from the telescope.
Also I hoticed the fuse kit is terrible with the kick. I would recommend either removing the fuses completely and running with no spring which is what I do or use a battery spring. When I was using my fuse kit 3.8 was basically dead on my ggts.
Also I hoticed the fuse kit is terrible with the kick. I would recommend either removing the fuses completely and running with no spring which is what I do or use a battery spring. When I was using my fuse kit 3.8 was basically dead on my ggts.
Allright fright, thanks for the input. Looks like I got some work to do to get optimal performance.
I replaced the fuse kit with the spring, wthout any further cleaning of anything else. Now she's hittin like a champ. I'll leave it so for a while and see what kind of battery life improvement I get. I suspect it will be significant.
I am going to have to keep fiddling with mine as well I suppose because I haven't been able to comfortably use this thing since I got it
I feel a sense of accomplishment when it actually fires... Every single contact is clean, in fact my P+ is in mint condition so I have no idea what is going on. In case anyone is wondering, I am using the P+ 18650 with the one thick o-ring and 3 washers on the button with a 2.5 ohm atty and the kick is set around 7-8 watts. All I know is the little "tick tick tick" gets really annoying after a while.Sounds like you may have a faulty one. If everything is clean and noalox on the threads it should fire every time. Also my kick makes no noticeable noises.
This is possible. I thought the little noise meant that either the battery is low or it's not making a good connection. It does fire every so often though so it is not completely faulty but I will see what happens. I haven't really had a need to use it too much but it would be nice to have a solid backup if I ever have to send my primary device in for service.
I was having issues with mine at first too. I eventually found this thread (thanks!). I was using 1 thick o ring under battery. Two washers, and 1 thin o-ring outside of top cap. This was working great, and I hated the way it looked with the o-ring showing on the outside.
Now, I have been using a thin o-ring under the battery, and 1 washer. That's it, been working perfect. Been using a re-buildable atomizer on it and it's pretty nice.
What's the clicking sound anyway? I was getting that too..
Now, I have been using a thin o-ring under the battery, and 1 washer. That's it, been working perfect. Been using a re-buildable atomizer on it and it's pretty nice.
What's the clicking sound anyway? I was getting that too..
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Follow up: After a while I removed the spring, not for performance reasons, I just tend to keep turning the tube when the pv is in my hands for some reason, then the spring starts bending over. Anyway, I got great consistent hits one after the other and it seemed as if the batt was never gonna die. When it finally died it measured at 3.28v. Yeah baby, that's the performance I was hoping for, much better performance and I'd have to start thinking about dirtying up the contacts a bit.
Three cheers for The Kick!Follow up: After a while I removed the spring, not for performance reasons, I just tend to keep turning the tube when the pv is in my hands for some reason, then the spring starts bending over. Anyway, I got great consistent hits one after the other and it seemed as if the batt was never gonna die. When it finally died it measured at 3.28v. Yeah baby, that's the performance I was hoping for, much better performance and I'd have to start thinking about dirtying up the contacts a bit.
I started getting misfires...replace with fresh battery. No misfires, works perfectly. I check the battery with a meter and it reads 3.8v...idk whats going on here...I doubt its my meter I have a decent one.
Sounds similar to what was my situation, would work well on a fully charged batt then all the sudden die once the batt was down to 4 to 3.8v. There's a 90% chance it's just a bad connection somewhere, so just make sure all connection contacts are extremly clean. I don't have a SuperT device so I can't help you with those specifics. If you can't figure it out, see if someone over at the Evolv forum might be able to help. Does'nt seem very active over there but it's worth a try. There is allways the outside chance the Kick is defective.Forum « Evolv
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