The Kick

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wigglr

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Not a wasted post IMHO. Everything about vaping is subjective - we each like what we like. Not every device, juice, atty/carto or power level appeals to all. Higher watts is a sweet spot for some. Granted, the larger majority is not at that heat level. DCs pose an interesting scenario because the power is split across two much higher Ωs coils (so vapes cooler than the calculated watts might imply on a single coil).

The Kick does exactly what it is designed to do - provides boosted regulated power (reads Ωs and automatically regulates the volts and amps to provide consistent watts). Its range is designed for both safety and the components. It will appeal to many but certainly not all. First several hundred units sold out at both of the two venders who had them - within 20 minutes each. So it certainly appeals to some.

Variable voltage appeals to others and that too is a subjective preference. VV cannot deliver the consistency but it certainly can deliver higher heat levels (especially with stacked batts) that some prefer. I just think there are options enough for us all to find and enjoy whatever makes us happy vapers without judging each other's preferences.

No doubt that it is a great device. Well written post, too, btw. For some juices that I vape, the Kick would work wonderfully; however, I'm trying to be prude with my spending!!! It's too hard to do.

I personally like the safety features of the Kick the most. I do hope very much that those who bought it enjoy it to the utmost.
 

NebulaBrot

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Just got mine in today but haven't fired it up yet. Are these ok w/ 18650 in GG?
Yes, I don't have the TS but the tester's feedback has been positive. Testers have used it with IMR 18650 and, depending on your configuration, may leave a thread showing (stock). I am told that either an extension or stealth cap will allow for a better fit.
 

Killjoy1

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Yes, it fits with an 18650 in certain configurations. With the stealth cap, for one. With my Ody (using the GGTS base) I get a few tele threads (3-4) showing, so in that setup I'll stick to smaller batts until/unless I can get a second top tube. I think it may fit with the UFS, too, since the pin sits higher up in the connector, but I haven't tried that yet

EDIT: I should note that I'm using the newer brass battery spring, which for me sits a few mm lower in the battery post than my original springs did, so depending on your spring YMMV

Right now I'm running my Ody with a 2 ohm coil using the kick and an 18350 batt (no top tube, one tele thread just barely showing). It certainly does do what it's supposed to :vapor: Took me no time at all to dial in my perfect vape

The low battery indication, where it pulses on and off, if very noticeable when it happens. I've been having an issue with my 18500 batts, both are fully charged and both give me the low battery indication and don't vape well at all. Tried a magnet on top of the batt in case it's just a bad connection (both those batts are flat top and slightly recessed), but it didn't fix the issue. They're both good batts, too, I've used them before and again today tried them without the kick and they're fine. I don't know what the issue is, I will have to consult with Drew and/or Brandon on this.

It works perfectly fine with my AW IMR 18650s (button-top) and my CoV IMR 18350s (flat-top), though :)

Overall it's fully living up to my expectations, it's just those two batteries that I am having trouble making it work with
 

rwechsler

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Anyone with a kick who typically vape sat higher wattages (13+) have anything worth noting about their experiences so far? I'm thinking it'll be a solid device to run low resistance attys with (1.5-2 ohms). Anything much higher or lower seems to get capped off too low. Like a .9ohm dual coil in the ody would get capped at 3v if i'm not mistaken, but then again, i'm not sure how the kick deals with powering dual coil attys/cartos :/
 

rwechsler

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I can't explain the numbers behind it, but from experience, the wattage required to adequately power a coil isn't calculated with a linear model. If anything, it'd probably be something more like a exponential growth curved model. So to power a 1.5ohm coil, 8-10 watts is more than sufficient. If you try to power it at 4.7v (15w), it WILL taste burnt. Yet you can power a 2.4ohm (even 2.2 if you live dangerously) coil at 6v (15w flat) without any real adverse effects to flavor, but HUGE clouds of vapor. I wish I could create an analytical model to scale the wattage "sweet spot" for various resistances. I'm a AP statistics student, so the math/modeling techniques aren't an issue, but collecting the data would be another story. Maybe I'll start a new little project...
 

NebulaBrot

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I can't explain the numbers behind it, but from experience, the wattage required to adequately power a coil isn't calculated with a linear model. If anything, it'd probably be something more like a exponential growth curved model. So to power a 1.5ohm coil, 8-10 watts is more than sufficient. If you try to power it at 4.7v (15w), it WILL taste burnt. Yet you can power a 2.4ohm (even 2.2 if you live dangerously) coil at 6v (15w flat) without any real adverse effects to flavor, but HUGE clouds of vapor. I wish I could create an analytical model to scale the wattage "sweet spot" for various resistances. I'm a AP statistics student, so the math/modeling techniques aren't an issue, but collecting the data would be another story. Maybe I'll start a new little project...
Sweet-spot is 100% subjective to personal taste. Juices vary at different heat levels. What one person likes, another does not - same as attys/cartos, etc., etc., etc. So "an analytical model to scale the wattage "sweet spot" for various resistances" would only reflect your personal preferences.

People argue that watts are watts and from a technical/electronics point of view they are correct. However, vaping is more like cooking the juices and that changes everything. Some people like 510 gear, others 801 gear, 306, 901, etc. I know people who are dedicated LR gear vapers and others (like me) who are 100% devoted to higher voltages and higher Ωs. different flavors in juices (especially more complex juices which have multiple flavor ingredients) can vary greatly at various heat levels.

I have been vaping for two years and tried most gear released prior to 6 mos ago and found my "sweet spot". I do not like anything 510 or 306, DCs and/or anything LR at all. My atty of choice is the Joye 302 (801 style) and carto of choice in the Boge JCA302 (510 tube with 801 threads) both in the 2.8-3Ωs range and I vape very consistently in teh 7.5 thru 9 watts range with 90+% right at 8.5.

Obviously, your preferences are very different - as are most people's. So, I usually advise: There is no "better/bets" there is only YOUR "better/best" explore, find your own sweet spots and enjoy! :toast:
 

rwechsler

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Very interesting indeed! Never really heard someone talk about Joye 302s, let alone praise them as highly as you do! I'm intrigued! My experience with 801 style attys is EXTREMELY limited. I just got some 3.5ohm shorty 801s from iken, but haven't really given them a fair chance yet. Been too caught up with my Odys and Patriot ahahah
 

NebulaBrot

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Caveat: I find the Joye 302 has a lingering primer fluid taste and can take 24 hours of use to fully break in. I steam blast them when new to get out the primer - this helps alot. I like them best at 5 volts/8.5watts range +/- depending on the juice. When I vaped baccos and bacco menthols, I did not like those juices in cartos and only dripped. Now that I am DIYing my own juices, mostly more complex fruit milkshakes, I prefer the cartos and tanks.

With bacco menthols, I found menthols came out more at higher heat levels and the bacco flavors came out more at lower - nice blend of flavors at the mid (8.5ish watts) range. With my milkshakes, I find the fruits come out more at 7.5 watts range and the vanillas come out more in the 9 to 9.5 watts range - again, best blends in the 8.5 watts range. But this is to MY taste/preferences.
 

NebulaBrot

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Huffelpuff

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Nice review of the adapters. I had an adapter issue last week - tried to use a 901 to 510 threaded to a 510/901 to attach my iatty to a 901 connector. The minute that I put it together and fired it started heating. Thankfully no damage to mod or person - I unscrewed right away - but could tell that I'd done something dreadfully wrong.

I ordered new adapters to see if it was a problem with one of the ones I used but would love to know if you have any thoughts on how to safely pair adapters to ensure a nice connection for the iatty 1 to the TS.
 

NebulaBrot

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adapters have gaskets that can be soft and deteriorate. They can short easily. Some people think they are adjustable and turn the flathead on the positive connection. A while back, people thought the draw was adjustable. if turned more than a tiny amount, the core breaks. Adapters have limited life spans. With Kick, if juice gets inside the adapter, kick may read it as shorted and not fire. If Kick won't fire (short sensor), remove atty and adapters and clean all contacts and blow out adapters. Rethread to only fingertip snug and try again. if Kick continues to read a short, try different atty/carto and/or adapter.

The sensor on the kick is intentionally sensitive and attys/cartos and/or adapters that trip the sensor on Kick may still work on unregulated devices. The sensitivity is there to protect both user and kick components.
 
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