The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics
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oh i was going to say if your using the pro version with the drill chuck and the longer rods. you could grab some "all thread" from lowes, home depot, ect in what ever diameter you want then just use it instead of the the smooth rod to make the spaced coils.
or if you feeling crafty you could always bend the "all thread" rod to the shape of the rod for Econo version.
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p.s.
i still need to get a gizmo. seem so much easier.
or if you feeling crafty you could always bend the "all thread" rod to the shape of the rod for Econo version.
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p.s.
i still need to get a gizmo. seem so much easier.
I use the Coil Master; the Kuro Koiler is the same design. Small gauge / small diameter coils are a little tricky with it, but 28-24 gauge coils at 2.5-3mm diameter come out perfectly every time.
For my Lemos, I use 26 gauge almost exclusively, usually nichrome. After playing with it for months and throwing all kinds of builds at it, a 26 gauge 3mm 8 wrap spaced nichrome build at 0.9-1.0 ohms, using the post holes, is what I go for. In other words, identical to the stock build. The only difference between my build and the stock coil it comes with is wicking - I use Japanese cotton.
yea i have seen those too, but you can't do tense coils with those type of hand helds, well i guess you could but it would be a real pain in the you know what.
i do the same build with 8/9 wrap 26 kanthal tho. and if you think the Japanese cotton is good, cotton bacon kills its. you should try it. i promise you'll never look back.
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I have started making my spaced coils on my Kuro coilers, after few practice coils, its rather easy and they come out perfect.
Just pull a bit more on the bit you are spinning when winding the coils, even if the spacing is a bit off, its ease to fix after winding the complete coil.
As cheap as they are, I'd just get a new one and raise your coil up more so you don't melt it again.
Hi I just received my Lemo. I'm running it on my Nemesis clone with an Efest 18650 3.7V battery. With the stock prebuilt, which is around 1.2 ohm I believe, it comes out at around 12W. Is that enough for the Lemo or should I go for a stronger battery?
its closer to 11.5w. yes its enough but it will be a pretty weak and cool. i would build like a .5 ohm coil. be something like 27-28watts. which is a good spot for most juices.
I find anything over 17w is too much for me with a 1 ohm spaced coil. Also depends on your juice. Some of my flavours I like around 15w and others up at 17w depending how strong the flavour is.
I use the Cigamajig. Version 1 is easy to make. See my blog. The V2 (in the pic) takes a little more skill and the ability to tap threads into a few holes but still pretty simple.
These winders are designed to tension wind coils directly from the wire spool. Takes about 20 seconds to wind a coil.
These winders are designed to tension wind coils directly from the wire spool. Takes about 20 seconds to wind a coil.
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That low resistance? Whoah, I wouldn't have thought..I ran my Kayfun on around 1.2-1.4 ohm no problem. I never figured one should go that low.
thats a hard one to answer. most of my higher pg juice i vape @ 40 wtts to get a warm. (mind you you i hate hot vapes.) but higher vg juices i vape @ 27.5-32w to get warm vape.
edit: also depends on how much nic i have. i only vape 6mg nic at that lv. anything like 12+ i vape @ at a lower wattage.
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the kayfun is quit different. i probably wouldn't go much low than 1 ohm a kayfun, but with a lemo hell yea and all day.
Well this is alarming. The airflow was starting to feel a bit tight so I took my drop completely apart and let it soak in some hot water with a one dawn in it. Dumped it out over a straining screen and habit a good rinse, and I found this.
It appeared to be a shaved thread, likely from the base where the lower chimney screws on. I haven't assembled it yet but should be interesting.
Update: it went together fine, actually easier than usual. Before I had trouble getting the threads in the chimney to catch but not now. It anyone else has this problem they might give their threads a close inspection and look for something incompletely cut at the factory.
It appeared to be a shaved thread, likely from the base where the lower chimney screws on. I haven't assembled it yet but should be interesting.
Update: it went together fine, actually easier than usual. Before I had trouble getting the threads in the chimney to catch but not now. It anyone else has this problem they might give their threads a close inspection and look for something incompletely cut at the factory.
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Well this is alarming. The airflow was starting to feel a bit tight so I took my drop completely apart and let it soak in some hot water with a one dawn in it. Dumped it out over a straining screen and habit a good rinse, and I found this.
It appeared to be a shaved thread, likely from the base where the lower chimney screws on. I haven't assembled it yet but should be interesting.
Update: it went together fine, actually easier than usual. Before I had trouble getting the threads in the chimney to catch but not now. It anyone else has this problem they might give their threads a close inspection and look for something incompletely cut at the factory.
It does look like a piece of cuttings from threading. Is it about the size of the upper and lower chimney threads or more like the size of the 510 base? Surprised it all went together and worked originally.
No surprise if it was the last thread at the bottom of the chimney threading on the rba. "Stop threading" against flanges were notorious for leaving cuttings in the last thread back in my machinist haydays. They were many times spec'd to have an additional undercutting process performed to remove the last thread or two. Haven't looked close enough at mine to see if that process was used.
Thanks for the heads up.
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Yeah this was the size of the chimney and is aluminum so must have come off the deck.
I'm glad it went together well as I was about to pull The trigger on a subtank mini at a B&M. Since its ok I'll buy a sharp looking CLT instead [emoji4]
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