The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics

[Bjorhyn]

My suggestion is to move the wick closer to the juice channels. Im thinking that wick is not getting juiced fast enough do to being too far from "watering" source (juice channels).

What i like to do, is turn top cap half a turn now and then counter clockwise, this allows the juice to flow and i get big air bubbles in my tank. I do this 3-4 times, one after another, and i get large airbubles.

I only use 24gauge wire, and it has a habit of consuming juice at a very high rate. Navy Nest with 24g coils has eliminated dry hits. I can vape close to 50w. But my tank is moded for more air flow, so your results may vary.
My set up; 24g, 7 wraps spaced, 3mm, vaping at 24w. Juices; 50/50. 70vg/30 and Max VG.

Navy Nest is time consuming, but when you get it right, its worse it.

View attachment 410997

The benefit of Navy Nest, is i can get 6-8 hard lung hits even when the tank is bone dry.

Appreciate the suggestion.
From my past experiences, the method of wicking I use allows it to 'fluff' up a bit when fully saturated, which made me believe it was close enough to the channels. It's worked well for me in the past, and part of the reason why I'm so stumped now.

I'll give it a shot, though. Ain't no harm in wasting a bit of cotton.

When you turn the top cap, does that only loosen the top cap, or does it rotate the chimney base as well?
I ask because mine is genally not tight enough to turn the chimney as well.

Looks like that setup is very similar to mine. Wider spaces, but same composition.
I'm assuming the 'Navy Nest' is your term for bridge wicking? Or something that I'm missing?

I'll be honest, I don't particularly like the bridge wicking method.

 

[Partspro]

I'm at a loss here.
I've been able to build my Lemo's without much difficulty over the past month or so, but the last few days have posed a problem.

I seem to be suffering a vacuum issue with my last build, and it's driving me crazy.
No bubbles, and dry hits constantly. The only thing different lately is my juice, which is lower VG. I've about giving up trying to vape anything past 70.
Vaping at 30w, I have to prime heavily every few hits. It doesn't seem like anything is feeding the wick.

I built a .7 ohm single coil, 3 mm I.D., 7 wrap 24g.
Wicked as usual. 1cm strip of KGD, tails trimmed to the chimney top, tucked to the deck and cleared the juice channels.

If y'all want a better/different picture, lemme know.

I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. It doesn't feel like too much wick, i'm not packing it in. It just barely touches the deck.
I haven't had this issue at all before, although I've built this same build several times without issue.

Any suggestions?

Replace the o ring at the top of the chimney. Replace the o rings on both top and bottom of the glass. You have a vacuum leak.
Unscrewing the top cap is simply flooding the chamber. That's not a fix, it's a band aid.

 

[BNEAT]

It's funny how differently we all build these things

twisted 30awg Ni200, 3mm I.D., Rayon wick thinned and covering the juice channels, 100%*VG. My buddy brought his Segelei 150 over Saturday, and I actually vaped this build at 80watts. I have 9mg juice in it so I couldn't go any higher for fear of my chest exploding! I normally vape this at 30-35watts, and it will chain vape until I pass-out!

edit: this tank has had serious modifications performed on the air passages

 

[nopoison]

It's funny how differently we all build these things

twisted 30awg Ni200, 3mm I.D., Rayon wick thinned and covering the juice channels, 100%*VG. My buddy brought his Segelei 150 over Saturday, and I actually vaped this build at 80watts. I have 9mg juice in it so I couldn't go any higher for fear of my chest exploding! I normally vape this at 30-35watts, and it will chain vape until I pass-out!

edit: this tank has had serious modifications performed on the air passages

Thanks for the awesome pics! I may have to give the twisted 30g a revisit! Never tried it on the Lemo. I use the 3mm size as well but have been using 24ga 6 wraps .6 ohm@ 30 watts. It works quite well (also modified my airflow quite a bit opened up) but one of mine is ready for some TLC so I might as well play around with a new build.

 

[Bjorhyn]

Replace the o ring at the top of the chimney. Replace the o rings on both top and bottom of the glass. You have a vacuum leak.
Unscrewing the top cap is simply flooding the chamber. That's not a fix, it's a band aid.

Thanks for the tip!

It didn't look like the rings are worn away, but I'll replace them as soon as I get home.
I'll keep ya updated.

 

[Dobo]

My wallet hates me.

I wanted to try some new tanks ... bought a Delta II, Subtank, and Subtank Mini.

I tried all kinds of different builds on all of them over the last several days, and put my Lemos aside. Used the RBA section on all three with Ni200. I did variations of my standard Lemo build (typically 8 evenly spaced 30awg wraps on a left-hand-thread M4 screw, ~3.2mm ID, .19ohm wicked with KGD cotton). All three could chuck clouds like no other and keep up at up to 25 watts and above, especially when thinning out the cotton. No leaking, atomizers performed OK with a few frustrations, including:

• All three: 510 inner pin is floating/held in place with a grommet. All of them needed a little work to get a solid connection for the DNA40 and even then they still bounced around a bit.
• The Delta II seems almost disposable to me. No replaceable parts; once the O-rings go bad I don't see any easy way of replacing them. Difficult to clean because nothing comes apart.
• On the Subtank and Subtank Mini: It took a ridiculous amount of cleaning to get the machine oil smell off of them. Delta II was clean.

Regardless - the problem: None of them compare to the flavor the Lemo produces. I don't know what it is, and I don't know how else to describe it other than my two go-to flavors were muted in all three at all different wattages and coil configurations. I finally pulled out one of my Lemos today after getting frustrated with these new tanks... put my standard build in it with one of the same go-to flavors and the flavor completely blows away any of these new RTAs. If I had no choice and had to use one of these thanks, it would be the large 25mm original Subtank... while still muted compared to the Lemo, the flavor was marginally better in this one.

I can't go as high of wattage with the Lemo (19watts and above hits TP pretty quickly @410F, stock airflow with ring removed). I don't care. These Lemos still produce thick clouds at 16+ and the flavor is simply outstanding in comparison.

I think we're truly spoiled with these tanks. In my opinion, the Lemo is still the RTA to beat... hands down. Shame on me for ever doubting that. Sorry wallet.

You just saved a lot of guys (including myself) quite some money! THANKS!

 

[WeirdWillie]

If you can't get above 19w you have a wicking issue.
I run mine all day long 30-35 watts 400°- 430° depending on the juice.

 

[Bjorhyn]

If you can't get above 19w you have a wicking issue.
I run mine all day long 30-35 watts 400°- 430° depending on the juice.

Based on what I had posted earlier, would you say that's a wicking issue?

 

[Partspro]

Thanks for the tip!

It didn't look like the rings are worn away, but I'll replace them as soon as I get home.
I'll keep ya updated.

I am betting yours is like mine, exact same symptoms. Pulled the top off, o ring on chimney was gone. I could have sworn it was on the last time I built it. Replaced that o ring, and continued having problems with dry hits. Grabbed it by the glass and the glass would turn even though the top was on tight. Replaced the top and bottom rings and it works like new.

 

[WeirdWillie]

Based on what I had posted earlier, would you say that's a wicking issue?

Either that and/or a vacuum leak from the upper chimney o-ring

 

[Dobo]

I posted this question in ITCVapes thread as well:

Can anyone please advise me if the max VG ITC will work well in Lemo drop? I'm currently using 50/50 juices in it, but would love to try max VG.

Also, if I order max VG from ITCVapes, should I request extra flavoring shot? And if yes, how much more?

 

[TheKiwi]

^itll be fine im sure. I have one running a DIY 92% VG. No distilled water or anything. Wicks fine too


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

 

[MidwestGuy]

If you can't get above 19w you have a wicking issue.
I run mine all day long 30-35 watts 400°- 430° depending on the juice.

Yeah ... I'm pretty sure it's not wicking as efficiently as it could; I keep the cotton pretty thick/tight and could probably thin it out a bit. I'm set at 410F with 50/50 liquid. I do take long (5-6 second) slower direct lung pulls, it will typically hit TP towards the end of the draw at 19+ watts. I'm afraid to thin the cotton too much. I'm not sure exactly why. Probably time to do some more experimenting.

Here's what my builds typically look like (though I'm using a few more wraps nowadays): Too much cotton?

 

[WeirdWillie]

10-1 Your juice channel are getting blocked when you screw the lower chimney on.
Try the rabbit ear method, temporarily block off the juice channels with a small screwdriver, or a folded piece of kanthal while pushing the tails into the lower deck.
Don't pack the tails in just gently lay them across the lower deck.

 

[MidwestGuy]

Thanks Willie!

I typically "paste" the cotton down to the deck next to the juice channels and to the side of the deck before screwing the chimney on, then stick a micro screwdriver in to the channel to make sure it's clear. I also verify that juice comes out by dripping in to the chamber before buttoning everything up. I'm using your bridging method as well.

I'll try the "pull ends through the chimney then tuck down" method next.

I'm guessing the method you describe (compared to mine) may disperse the cotton a bit better, providing potentially better and more efficient wicking? Just trying to understand exactly whats going on in that chamber so I can potentially come up with some other ideas to try as well!

Thanks!

 

[WeirdWillie]

Also all your orings need to be in good condition.
Some have reported having to put a slightly thicker oring on the upper chimney on the Drop, my full size lemos have never given me any vacuum troubles.
I always lube my gaskets and orings wit a few drops of juice before reassembly.

 

[KGB7]

Appreciate the suggestion.
From my past experiences, the method of wicking I use allows it to 'fluff' up a bit when fully saturated, which made me believe it was close enough to the channels. It's worked well for me in the past, and part of the reason why I'm so stumped now.

I'll give it a shot, though. Ain't no harm in wasting a bit of cotton.

When you turn the top cap, does that only loosen the top cap, or does it rotate the chimney base as well?
I ask because mine is genally not tight enough to turn the chimney as well.

Looks like that setup is very similar to mine. Wider spaces, but same composition.
I'm assuming the 'Navy Nest' is your term for bridge wicking? Or something that I'm missing?

I'll be honest, I don't particularly like the bridge wicking method.

I tighten down the main/lower chimney that surrounds the deck and the top portion of the chimney as well, i have to use pliers with rubber tips to remove them. In the past, when i remove the top cap that hold down the glass tank, the chimney would unscrew as well, which would mess up the wick. So now i tighten it down nice and tight.

The top portion of the cap that hold the glass in place, i keep it barely snug, i can even turn the glass with two finger with no effort. But i top fill my tank, which is much faster then unscrewing entire tank from a battery, then filling it via a tiny bottom hole with a tiny needle.


My wick, is flared out on the deck, ill take a pick next time i wick it, but you dont see the juice holes. I do stick a screw driver down the middle of the wick when the lower portion of the chimney gets screwed in, and i make sure the juice channels are clear.

I call it Navy Nest, because some one else called it Navy Nest, and i didnt see anyone one else use another or proper terminology to describe the wicking method you see in the picture. So im sticking with Navy Nest.

 

[MidwestGuy]

I was using too much cotton.

Some how, I had managed to develop a nasty habit where if I could get the wick through the coil and move it back and forth without affecting the coil, then this was good/right. In most cases, yes ... but I think since I started doing really tight tension wrapping with a jig, my coils are quite a bit more rigid and even, and I think I gradually started using more cotton over the last couple of months as I've started using this method. Anyway ... after trying several different wicking methods and suggestions, I decided that this might be the case. I basically lowered the amount of KGD I'd been using by nearly 3/4(!). It still fills the coil nicely, and it still covers the deck nicely. And it's wicking FAR better, so far. I expect it to get even better once I vape it down a bit, I unfortunately overfilled (not much of a bubble to be seen at the top of the tank. Oops).

ETA: @WierdWillie : your theory was still correct... in my best analogy: I had a parking lot of juice and there was an accident blocking most of the entrance/exit.

 

[BigMak45]

I've only read about half this thread so far, so this might have been answered, but can I restrict the airflow enough since I'm a mouth-to-lung hitter?

I'm used to the 3rd largest airhole on a Nautilus, and tried the Subtank but couldn't get it closed enough for the type of vape that I prefer.

Thanks!

 

[Bjorhyn]

Replace the o ring at the top of the chimney. Replace the o rings on both top and bottom of the glass. You have a vacuum leak.
Unscrewing the top cap is simply flooding the chamber. That's not a fix, it's a band aid.

Thanks for the tip!

It didn't look like the rings are worn away, but I'll replace them as soon as I get home.
I'll keep ya updated.

Replaced the chimney ring, and both gaskets.
Positioned my wicks over the channels, but not in them.
Still having trouble.