The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics

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narrdarr

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I come to the mighty Lemo thread with a problem.

I recently switched to using a 80VG juice (MBV's Caramel Coffee, best juice to gunk up your coils) thinking that my Lemo Drop would handle it. Well, before this I was using a 50/50 blend and I would see bubbles coming out of the juice channels every now & then, indicating proper juice feed into the wick. Never had a dry hit.

The same is not happening with this new, thicker juice. I have to force-prime it by blocking off the airholes and dry pulling, but still I get dry hits. I am running a 28G 3mm ID @ 1.3 ohm spaced coil. The wicking method I have been following is this one and it has worked wonderfully up until I changed juices.

If anyone could give me a but of insight as to what could be causing this, I'd be very thankful.

im using 80/20 vg/pg right no issues. 26 guage 1.1/1.2 ohm builds. 3mm ID spaced coil. using the bridge method.

make sure the wick through the coil is just long enough to reach to bottom of the juice well and not into the channels.
put the barrel on
make sure the wick is evenly spread in the well and not blocking the juice channels.
take two pieces of wick about the same length as your wick going through the coil and about 1/2 as thick maybe a little less.
tuck one around the outside going parallel with the coil.
then take the ends of the wick and use them to back secure the coils wick away from the channel
repeat for the second piece
you should end up with what looks like this.
IMG_7606[1].jpg
IMG_7607[1].jpg

you should be able to see the juice channel if done correctly as in the pictures.
now vape on.
i usually vape between 25-35w depending on the flavor im use. never have i had an issue.
 

cigatron

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Could a smaller ID really improve the wicking? I'd think that a larger diameter would allow more juice to get into the coil.

About the 1 ohm coil, I haven't tried it. I like to sit at 1.2-1.3 ohms, because of battery life (iStick 20W).

Sorry, I usually vape it at 14-15W. I'm a mouth-to-lunger, hence the low wattage. Another piece of potentially relevant info, I use japanese organic cotton.

Thanks for the replies!

If you're get dry hits you're under wicked. Try using 25% more wick. It should be pretty snug in your coil after inserted. More wick = more juice. Vaping at that low of wattage setting can cause flooding if over wicked though, so keep wicking heavier until your dry hits go away....then wick a little heavier to make your wicking last longer. 1.3 ohms is perfect for the Istick 20.

I can chain vape 75vg at 50w with no dryhits or bridge wicking. I just wick it chunky.
 
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Katya

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So, if that chart is outdated..what range would suit my needs for building a single coil for my lemo whilst using a vv 3.0 / VTR (11-15watt)

Follow Cig's sound advice. :)

Are you trying to use the Lemo on your VV3? If so, I concur with others here; not enough power with the factory coil setup. The Lemo really needs 20w or more to shine. My brother ran his on an Istick 20 for about a month before upgrading to a 50w box mod.

The Lemo will run decent on a VV3 however if you wind a smaller diameter, thinner gauge and higher res coil. Try a 30ga., 9/8 wrap, 2mm ID, 1.95 ohm, contact coil (not spaced). This build will optimize the power potential of your VV3 but will require closing down the Lemo AFC to MTL hitting airflow level.

Good luck.

You could also try 29g kanthal--easier to work with, IMO.
 

Katya

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So rather than figuring out how to wrap a coil with my 32 gauge. The solution is use different kanthal..........

Yup.

In a nutshell, your Lemo and your VV V3 are really not made for each other. If you like the Lemo, I'd recommend getting a new battery for it--at some point. The iStick 30 is a very good choice. Or the Defender.

The Lemo was designed to be used with lower gauge wires and higher wattages than the VV can handle.

Just my :2c:
 

RedheadedBStarD

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SacredNut: When you calculated your coil on Steam did you take into account the total length of the legs and input that? FYI it is the total of both legs that needs to be entered not a single leg. Also with the thin gauge of wire you are using you should mount the legs under the screws of the terminals instead of the holes below.

Like this:
398352d1419369550-lemo-rta-build-pics-1.jpg


Not this:
HTB1p2.KGXXXXXcDaXXXq6xXFXXXT.jpg



*If one of these images belong to somebody on the forum please excuse my use of them in this explanation.*
 

MidwestGuy

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KGB7

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SacredNut: When you calculated your coil on Steam did you take into account the total length of the legs and input that? FYI it is the total of both legs that needs to be entered not a single leg. Also with the thin gauge of wire you are using you should mount the legs under the screws of the terminals instead of the holes below.


What difference does it make where you stick the legs; holes or under screws? Ive always used holes with no issues.

Ive gained 0.03ohm by having a much longer legs so the coil sits much higher above the air hole. My estimated guess, both legs combined are 3-4mm longer with coil sitting higher. I use 24awg wire.
 

Elyptic

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What difference does it make where you stick the legs; holes or under screws? Ive always used holes with no issues.

Ive gained 0.03ohm by having a much longer legs so the coil sits much higher above the air hole. My estimated guess, both legs combined are 3-4mm longer with coil sitting higher. I use 24awg wire.

With 24 gauge, probably not worth worrying about. But with 30 or 32 gauge, those extra 4-6 mm make a difference! And that's more chance for a hot leg with the thinner wire. In my opinion, 28 gauge and above are best suited to using the screws, 26 and below work fine with the holes. But again, that's just my opinion!


Bits scrambled by Tapatalk...
 

cigatron

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I would recommend terminating any wire thinner than 28ga under the screw heads too. The through holes can clip off thinner gauges pretty easy. Even the 32 twisted I use can be clipped off if over tightened.

Even though it's true that longer legs add res to your build they do not cause hotlegs. Hotlegs are caused by shorted turns in contact coils. After oxidation is formed on the wire hotlegs will never occur no matter how long they are. Just sayn'
 
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railz68

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hi...just a update...my factory coil just died!! a week short of 3 months!!! built a new one with 26g at .9 ohm still loving it!!!

good to hear. I'm still on factory for both. The drop for about 3 weeks, and Lemo about a week. The factory coil and wick was great in both. On the Drop i've been chasing to wick it as well as it was delivered. Cotton it came with, my cotton, and rayon. Always a tad to much cotton, or not enough. Hope when the time comes i can make a good coil to match the factory one.
 

cigatron

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good to hear. I'm still on factory for both. The drop for about 3 weeks, and Lemo about a week. The factory coil and wick was great in both. On the Drop i've been chasing to wick it as well as it was delivered. Cotton it came with, my cotton, and rayon. Always a tad to much cotton, or not enough. Hope when the time comes i can make a good coil to match the factory one.

railz, try wicking it with more cotton. Kgd cotton if you have it. The factory coils come loaded with tons of cotton and for good reason; more is better with these kayfun style rtas. Use so much that you have to roll it down fairly firm just to get it through the coil. The wicking will last longer too. I'm getting over 60ml from mine with off the shelf cleanish juices. Power levels should be in the 30-35w range.
 

rks1949

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My replacement Lemo arrived today! The flavor is over the top,even using the factory installed coil and cotton wick. It reads 1.1 ohms,and I've been running it at 25 watts,but I keep getting a loud popping from it? Any advice? I was also wanting to build a sub ohm coil,but thought I would try the 1.1 coil out first. You guy's were right!:) The flavor is about as close to a RDA as I have ever got from a tank! I think I have a new favorite now!:toast:073.jpg
 
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