I bought a big box of Rayon last week and have been messing around with it. Honestly, I don't seem to have the hang of it in terms of getting the right density. And for the time being, I've gone back to my tried and true CVS organic cotton balls. I've done a couple builds using Rayon that worked and tasted great, but just as many others that didn't or gave me funky dry hits, a problem I never have using the organic cotton balls.
I haven't given up on Rayon, I'm just not completely sold on it yet.
It took me a good month to get the hang of it. There is a post somewhere in the giant rayon thread that someone used the term 'floss the coil' and it clicked for me and after that I got it. You can put too much of it in the coil, peel the edges off a bit if you need to. Then 'floss' the coil a bit to lessen the density inside the coil. Tad more than cotton, but it should still slide through.
Just found it...kinda long.
"I've been struggling for two weeks trying to get consistent results on a Kayfun 3.1 ES clone.
A lot of my problems stem from this being my first Kayfun-style RBA
My latest build - 1.3Ω, 8/9 28ga - has been the most successful to date.
Here are some things that I noticed, that have been mentioned in the thread.
(I am using the Sally's Beauty Graham CelluCotton Coil #44060)
(I have my coil at 45°)
tl;dr:
* don't compress or roll the wick
* squeeze the wick to feed it through the coil
* 'floss' the coil, feel for squeak, coil deformation means too much wick
The long version:
* I use between 1/3 and 1/4 of the width of the CCR coil,
at a length more than I would need say, 3" or so
* I do NOT roll or twist AT ALL - instead, I kind of run it through my fingers,
lightly, starting from the center and working outwards, as if I were going to
pull it apart with my fingers; using all fingers but my pinky.
This doesn't take long, and there is very little squeezing or compressing.
* I do twist an end to get it started through the coil.
Once I meet the initial resistance, I have to 'squeeze' the CCR
as it goes into the coil. If the density is right, you have to squeeze
both ends to 'floss' the coil, and you will feel the 'squeak'.
I am wicking on top of a Vamo; if I don't hold the mod, it would tip
as I pull the CCR through.
* If the resistance is right, you will have to squeeze the CCR to feed it back
and forth, but you won't deform your coil. If you're deforming your coil, you can
pull it back out, and 'peel' some strands away. This is where making it a little
longer (you'll have lost some length trimming down the twisted end) and not
compressing it comes into play- too tightly compressed or twisted, and you can't
peel off precision amounts, and you'll have to start all over.
* After 'flossing', the tails on either side of the coil should look approximately the same.
I trim at the threads of the tank, and then trim again. I found trimming at the chamber
threads to be too short, and trimming at the edge of the base too long.
* At this point there is some contention - some folks further trim the wick. I haven't
found this necessary. I just wet the wick with juice, starting with a drop on the coil,
then wetting from the center out, and putting a drop or two more on the coil.
Once wet, I 'glue' the wick to the deck walls, avoiding the threads and channels.
* I screw the chamber back on, and then inspect. I have found that if I can see the channels,
I will be in business. If the wick moved because of the chamber, I tuck it back toward
the wall of the deck, working it until I can see the channels again.
And that's it. Various test firings should be done, if only to preview the vapor production.
If I have the wick wet thoroughly enough, and my coil is good, I see some excellent vapor
plumes come off the coil.
This is what has finally worked for me. I went through one tank, inspected, and the coil
looked good - a little dark, but not gunked. The wick looked clean, although I did have one
side almost blocking the channel."
Hope that helps!
