That explains it. My needle bottles are only 10 ml. I'll get some larger ones. That would be a real convenience upgrade. Thanks for the tip.
The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics
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That explains it. My needle bottles are only 10 ml. I'll get some larger ones. That would be a real convenience upgrade. Thanks for the tip.
I try and make sure my wick is just brushing the top of the deck and when I screw on the base part of the chimney, I adjust the wick so it's not in the way of the juice channels. I think less is better tho!
Well, I tried something "new" just because I can't leave well enough alone. I removed the airflow controller ring. I laid it on it's side a I always do, go to vape and it is gurgling! I have never had a gurgle. So I put that bad boy back on and you guessed it no more gurgle. Not sure how or why the ring would make a difference, but it did on my Lemo D. Back to vaping a perfectly working tank. If it's not broke... 
I have the AFC removed, the 4 air holes on the Center Screw/Pin drilled out by 100%, the holes on the deck have been increased by 200%, tomorrow......i will increase the size of juice channels.
Im gona Frankenstein the bejesus out of my Lemo Drop.
p.s.
Looks to me that this tank doesnt like 50/50 juice. I get frequent dry hits, so i have to mix the juice with 80vg. It also doesnt like to be chain vaped.
Im gona Frankenstein the bejesus out of my Lemo Drop.
p.s.
Looks to me that this tank doesnt like 50/50 juice. I get frequent dry hits, so i have to mix the juice with 80vg. It also doesnt like to be chain vaped.
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^im vaping a 50/50 coffee juice right now actually. 28 watts, and finished a nano in half hour, so it does chain vape pretty well. Nods.
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Ive had 50/50 70pg/30vg and 60vg 40pg in the lemo and all were good.
Sometimes if i take 3-4 vapes in a row the next one gets strong but probably the wicking trying to catch up.
Sometimes if i take 3-4 vapes in a row the next one gets strong but probably the wicking trying to catch up.
Pictures please! I would like to see what that 100% and 200% look like. Sounds crazy!
I have run a ton of 50/50 juice thru two Lemos with no dry hits. Sounds like maybe a wicking issue. How thick is your rayon and how is it sitting with the juice channels?
I too think its Rayon wiking issue. Ive been battling with Rayon for the past two days and i cant seem to get it right. It works one moment and then it goes to crap the next moment.
One minute it vapes flawlessly at 30w 0.5ohm, and ten minutes later i have to drop it to 20w to prevent dry burn.
Ive gone through almost a dozen various wiking setups and i still cant get it right. Im at the point of going to ToysRUs and getting a tinny Barbie hair brush for the Rayon.
One minute it vapes flawlessly at 30w 0.5ohm, and ten minutes later i have to drop it to 20w to prevent dry burn.
Ive gone through almost a dozen various wiking setups and i still cant get it right. Im at the point of going to ToysRUs and getting a tinny Barbie hair brush for the Rayon.
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make sure the rayon is not too long or too thick. I cut the wick at the top of the chimney and then bunny ear it down into the well. And check that it isnt blocking the juice channels (you should be able to see light when looking down the chimney) - i have to push the rayon away using a small screwdriver. And i prime the hell out of the coil and wick before starting the vape
I was channeling the wick/Rayon towards the juice channel to get the most absorption. Will try "away" from juice channel method.
I too did bunny ear method last time tonight and it seemed to work, just not as good as the OEM coil and now i know why.
Thanks.
I'm running dual coils with Rayon, 100%VG, 30ish watts, and I'm sure I could fire mine until the battery vents! I thin the tails to the extreme, then cut them long enough to just barely tuck into the channels. I also have a large single Ni200 build that's doing just fine on the same juice, and I turn the power up to 40 watts at least once a day to "pressure test" my DNA40 device. If your Lemo isn't performing well with Rayon, then you don't have it wicked correctly.
edit: I make my coils on the large side: dual coils = 2.5mm, single = 3.3mm
edit: I make my coils on the large side: dual coils = 2.5mm, single = 3.3mm
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Hey question, I've been enjoying my lemo and now I have taken it all apart to clean it and. I don't think I'm putting the base back together correctly. The one post to screw down the wire is really loose, looser than it was and if I push from the bottom where the afc is it straight pops out a few mm. Is there a piece I'm. Missing he re? Or a special way to screw that afc through the base? Seems others have had a similar problem but nothing I do works and perhaps it's a missing piece in there
Once I got my hands on Shiseido Japanese cotton pads for wicking material I haven't looked back.
It will wick as fast as you can feed it juice, I can vape using it on the Lemo as far as 80w very hot vape but not hint of a dry hit.
There are 5 forces involved when it comes to getting the Lemo to preform consistently through a wide range of settings.
**Tips**
More is better!!
Forget conventional thinking when it comes to wicking, stuff those coils with wick, but DO NOT pack wick down into the lower build deck it needs to loosely,
gently lay on the lower deck.
Don't cut your tails too short as your wick absorbs juice it can swell and lift slightly off the lower deck if you cut them only long enough to reach the lower deck, again more is better.
If you find yourself having to periodically having to vacuum prime or cut back on wattage because of dry hits, or in the case of a DNA40 you are reaching TP setting too quickly, you have poor wicking. and need to rethink how you are doing things.
I assure you I vape all day long on a DNA40 set to 40w and between 400-430 degrees depending on the juice and never hit TP, I can run it up to 500 degrees vape and dry fire it without hitting TP.
Or I can put one on my IPV3 crank it up to 80w with high VG and hold my own fogging the room with thick clouds without dry hits it's all about wicking and air flow.
Here is the best advice I can give you, slow down take your time with your builds and wicking, be meticulous and deliberate with everything, if you ....... your build and wicking be prepared for a ....... vape.
It will wick as fast as you can feed it juice, I can vape using it on the Lemo as far as 80w very hot vape but not hint of a dry hit.
There are 5 forces involved when it comes to getting the Lemo to preform consistently through a wide range of settings.
- Coil Build
Coils must heat evenly, consistently coil legs must be tight with no shorts or hotspots (more pronounced when used with a DNA40 and Ni200) but also goes for Kanthal builds.
- Chamber Vacuum
ALL sealing and mating surfaces needs to be clean and tight, o-ring and gaskets have to be in good condition, and in place.
Juice channel MUST remain unrestricted for juice to flow up to the lower build deck.
*Also see air flow adjustment below*
The next 2 is where Japanese cotton really comes into it's own and WILL NOT give you a dry hit if kept saturated as it should be, and feed it enough airflow.
- Wick absorption
Your wick material must be capable of quickly absorbing, and retaining the juice that should be rapidly entering the chamber via the juice channels.
- Capillary Action
It's not enough that your wick need to absorb, and retain juice quickly, but also through capillary action MUST be able to quickly replace juice that has been boiled off at the coil, again this is where Japanese cotton shines, it has an amazing capillary ability it almost magically draws replacement juice to the hot coil from the absorbed reserve as fast as it is being boiled off while simultaneously replenishing the reserve at the same rate.
- Air Flow
First let me remind you that the Lemo is a vacuum operated tank, and that chamber vacuum is directly affected by airflow adjustment.
I personally like a warm, juicy, dense flavor vape but also want it to be a somewhat airy unrestricted draw but not to the point sacrificing chamber vacuum that will affect juice flow, that will affect wick absorption.
On the other hand too little air flow can result in chamber flooding, coil over heating due to lack of adequate coil cooling.
Assuming at this point you have your coil and wick correctly sorted, adjust the air flow just to the point that enough vacuum is created to keep your wick saturated, if everything has gone right and you wick is absorbing, retaining, and transferring correctly, your draw should be no tighter than a standard king size (not 100) cigarette in fact maybe a little looser in other words the draw should effortless and natural with only a tiny hint of resistance just enough to keep juice flowing into the chamber, this of course is dependent too on juice viscosity and needs to be adjusted accordingly.
**Tips**
More is better!!
Forget conventional thinking when it comes to wicking, stuff those coils with wick, but DO NOT pack wick down into the lower build deck it needs to loosely,
gently lay on the lower deck.
Don't cut your tails too short as your wick absorbs juice it can swell and lift slightly off the lower deck if you cut them only long enough to reach the lower deck, again more is better.
If you find yourself having to periodically having to vacuum prime or cut back on wattage because of dry hits, or in the case of a DNA40 you are reaching TP setting too quickly, you have poor wicking. and need to rethink how you are doing things.
I assure you I vape all day long on a DNA40 set to 40w and between 400-430 degrees depending on the juice and never hit TP, I can run it up to 500 degrees vape and dry fire it without hitting TP.
Or I can put one on my IPV3 crank it up to 80w with high VG and hold my own fogging the room with thick clouds without dry hits it's all about wicking and air flow.
Here is the best advice I can give you, slow down take your time with your builds and wicking, be meticulous and deliberate with everything, if you ....... your build and wicking be prepared for a ....... vape.
I've been using rayon in my Lemo and I've been liking it. With a 1-1.2 ohm single coil build I find that I prefer my vape around 12-13 watts which is only like 3.5-3.6 volts. Any higher and it starts to taste burnt to me, but I really can't complain I'm still getting great flavor and vapor production at the lower power settings (and I'm not draining my battery as fast).
Block a couple of the air holes on the base, take a couple substantial primer pulls. This should build up some pressure back in the tank and get your juice wicking again!
That's what i've had to do, just doesn't seem to stick though. I keep having to do that after 15-20 minutes or so. It's so odd that it's perfect for a tank, and then poof it's bad for the next after i refill it. I'm wondering if the wick some how gets moved in between taking off the base to refill it and putting it back together.
Also had a thought that maybe i filled it up to much. So i took the base off it, took out the rubber stopper on the fill hole and put it back in. Now it seems maybe to be working as before. Could that be what's causing it? This is my first RTA so i'm still learning what to do and all regards to the wicking on this. I don't think it's the coil though, 26g with 7(?) wraps at .7ohm on in a micro coil vs being spaced out like how the the coil that came with the lemo was.
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