The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics

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Piak

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Sep 9, 2014
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I read from many reviews that their Lemo came squeaky clean. I just received mine a week ago and mine definitely had machine oil on them that took a while to get rid of.

I soaked mine overnight in dishwashing liquid and cleaned all the surfaces with a sponge and the machine oil taste was still there on my first build.

What I did was to drain the tank and wipe the whole thing down with some paper towels, rebuilt and it was ok after, probably because my juices eventually got into the air channels where the bad taste was coming from.
 

Phibes

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After trying different setups, even changed kanthal wires, cotton balls, japanese cotton and fiber freaks, I must the only one but...I don't like Lemo.

I find the taste overcooked even on low watt setting. It's not burnt, but too harsh and unpleasant. I've tested the same juices on a kayfun and it's night and day...I love Kayfun's flavor.

I'm also a mouth to lung inhaler and it's not that easy to do mouth to lungs with this one. Closing the afc makes it really tight and opening it makes it really airy.

And I really wanted to like this one...:(
 
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Elyptic

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After trying different setups, even changed kanthal wires, cotton balls, japanese cotton and fiber freaks, I must the only one but...I don't like Lemo.

I find the taste overcooked.

I'm also a mouth to lung inhaler and it's not that easy to do mouth to lungs with this one. Closing the afc makes it really tight and opening it makes it really airy.

The airflow control is tricky. There is a way to get a happy medium, but it's not easy.

I'm finding that I like the Lemo, but it is a really different beast. It likes higher wattages and more airflow. In your case, is stick with a Kayfun or Russian.

I find myself liking both, but use them very differently.


Bits scrambled by Tapatalk...
 

cocacola31173

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I know this is going to come across as me being a smart ....., but I'm not trying to be at least this time LOL :ohmy:


Does anywhere on the device, box, or instruction booklet say the word Kayfun?
Then why treat it like a kayfun, no kayfun to date can even come close to a Lemowith the right build.
The Lemo and the Kayfun are two different vapor delivery devices, yes they work in a simular fassion as a vacuum fed tank and have a simular build deck.
But have you ever tried to get a kayfun to deliver a consistant quality, flavorful vape above 20w? It's damn near impossible.
Why small chamber, lack of adequate air flow, and the inability to flow enough juice to the wick.

The Lemo solved all these issues.

First more is better, 2mm-3mm ID coils seems to be the sweet spot, don't be afraid to take it below 1ohm with kanthal, I found for me around .5 to .7 single parallel 28ga kanthal worked best YMMV.
Put some wick in that coil, I've found if you are using cotton, (I use shiseido Japanese cotton) use more than you would with a kayfun, with a kayfun you would pull it through with little resistance, with the Lemo pull it through with allot resistance, almost to where you think it's too tight, it's not but again this is not a kayfun either.

Keep your wick tails away from the juice channels completely.
I built a simple tool to stick down into the juice channels while preping using a folded piece of 24ga kanthal (search a couple pages back)

Learn how to use your airflow and adjust your wattage
If you are running it at 15w with a tight draw even though it can, you may as well stayed with a kayfun you aren't doing the Lemo any justice
Open up some air flow and crank up that power, you'll find flavors you didn't know your juices had.

With the right wicking, and correct air flow adjustments you could chain vape at 100w (if you like a damn HOT vape) and the Lemo will keep up.

If you feel you are not getting enough flavor.
Not wicking enough
Improper air flow adjustment
Not enough power

As another side note not all juices do well at higher power, they taste ok at lower power and less air flow as if they were custom tailored for clero's and kayfuns
but don't do well with more air flow and higher power settings.

Im beginning to think this Lemo is not for me...I don't like a big airy draw. I mainly got the Lemo cause it was made out of Pyrex. I know they have kits for the Kayfuns but have heard they break super easy and don't perform very well.

I paid over 30 dollars for this thing and Im not giving up on it yet.

So any tips for someone who likes the mouth to lung inhale instead of direct lung inhales?
 

Wolfenstark

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I have the air flow at max and i like it and can do mouth to lung but with the air flow being very good it does take an effort.
Much easier to just lung hit. My KFL+v2 without the air hole screws is now very tight in comparison.

So far had it at 0.9Ω , 1.5Ω and currently 1.8Ω with the 1.8Ω I'm at 15watts. I forget what watts I was using for the other builds.
2.5mm coil.
 

horton

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That's why I own 6 of them. I literally feel like I can throw anything into it and it works. Each has its own attributes but the Lemo seems to be built to work. One of the least temperamental devices I use.

I think I'm headed to multiple ownership as well. They are indeed very easy to build on and just as forgiving as the Kayfuns. (I personally find them to be most similar to the Kayfuns)
Love the capacity while being a little leery of the Pyrex tank. But spares are inexpensive enough to have on hand. I am still trying to find the site that had a "twofer" deal on the glass tanks.... can't seem to find it anywhere.
I haven't tried Rayon yet but don't see why it will be difficult in light of how easy the cotton is to work with. I'm not digging at any devices, but I get a kick out of the fact that I can buy ~6 Lemos for the price of one of the other devices on the market.... what a deal.....:D
 

BNEAT

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After trying different setups, even changed kanthal wires, cotton balls, japanese cotton and fiber freaks, I must the only one but...I don't like Lemo.

I find the taste overcooked even on low watt setting. It's not burnt, but too harsh and unpleasant. I've tested the same juices on a Kayfun and it's night and day...I love Kayfun's flavor.

I'm also a mouth to lung inhaler and it's not that easy to do mouth to lungs with this one. Closing the afc makes it really tight and opening it makes it really airy.

And I really wanted to like this one...:(

There IS an inbetween...but I've heard the adjuster tends to move around pretty easily on some units.
 

Wolfenstark

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There IS an inbetween...but I've heard the adjuster tends to move around pretty easily on some units.

I read that also - So i put it on full air figured fully unscrewed it would stand a good chance to stay in place and when i refill i check it and its still on full air.
 

BNEAT

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It moves. A LOT!
There is NO way to find a good setting because when you screw it, it moves. And when you unscrew it, it moves again.
Must be the sh!ttiest afc.

I've heard of people putting o'rings on the centerpost to hold the adjuster in place. I've also heard of using flat dental floss to make the threads tighter. I tangled up some cotton under/in the threads of mine to restrict it's movement. (eventually I removed the adjuster all together)
 

englishmick

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UC = Utrasonic Cleaner

I clean my tanks in whatever is handy, but it's usually Dawn. As long as you rinse well there shouldn't be a problem. The important part is taking it completely apart when new: every screw, bushing, o'ring, insulator, etc.

I didn't think about that. I did take it apart and clean it when I first got it, but I've never removed the o-rings or dismantled the build deck / air flow stuff. I didn't even clean the deck right away because I wanted to get started with the coil and wick that it came with. There was a bad taste, which took quite a long time to go away.

On that topic, do you do a complete strip down when you do a regular cleaning? And how do you get the flat rings which hold the glass out without damaging them? I just had a poke at them with a toothpick and they didn't want to come out. I was scared of messing them up if I used more force.
 

Corbs126

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Had a bad fail today. Got my Lemo and was super excited about it. Cleaned it, though it was very clean, and reassembled. Used the o-ring plunger instead of the fill screw and filled it up. Took a primer puff and my liquid dropped, started pouring out of the air holes. Ripped it off my mod real quick and the whole thing just leaked out. Took my bottom piece off and saw that the plunger o-ring had come out and my fill hole was completely open. FAILLLLL. Replaced the o-ring with the fill screw, rejuiced and now I'm vaping just fine. Hopefully this helps somebody to make sure that the plunger is definitely all the way in, or just use the fill screw and you won't run into this issue. My facepalm can be your lesson :)
 

BNEAT

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I didn't think about that. I did take it apart and clean it when I first got it, but I've never removed the o-rings or dismantled the build deck / air flow stuff. I didn't even clean the deck right away because I wanted to get started with the coil and wick that it came with. There was a bad taste, which took quite a long time to go away.

On that topic, do you do a complete strip down when you do a regular cleaning? And how do you get the flat rings which hold the glass out without damaging them? I just had a poke at them with a toothpick and they didn't want to come out. I was scared of messing them up if I used more force.


Yeah, I completely disassemble everything, especially stuff that comes from countries where booger eatin' kids may have assembled it. Think about it: If you sent your drip-tip o'rings to a crime lab, I'm sure they wouldn't have a problem retrieving DNA from them!

The centerpost hole and positive block/insulator are bad about holding flavors (or other nasty stuff) But I don't take them apart that far unless they're new, or I'm doing a flavor change.

Usually the tank gaskets will free up under warm water (I'm sure I will wash mine down the drain eventually)
 
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horton

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Yeah, I completely disassemble everything, especially stuff that comes from countries where booger eatin' kids may have assembled it. Think about it: If you sent your drip-tip o'rings to a crime lab, I'm sure they wouldn't have a problem retrieving DNA from them!
The centerpost hole and positive block/insulator are bad about holding flavors (or other nasty stuff) But I don't take them apart that far unless they're new, or I'm doing a flavor change.
Usually the tank gaskets will free up under warm water (I'm sure I will wash mine down the drain eventually)

Wow.... what a visual.....lol. I always disassemble new atomizers and clean them but now I think I'm going to look for a used autoclave. Just thinking of that phrase gives me the pathogenic willies........
 

englishmick

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Another question about disassembling.

The lower chimney part which fits around the build deck always sticks tight on mine. Even using all the force I can put on it, with gripping pads, it won't break loose. Not a problem really, I just hold that part under the hot tap for a few moments and it expands and comes right off. I was just wondering why that happens. Do I have a dodgy thread, or is it to do with the heat around that joint.

cheers
 

BNEAT

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A lot of times the chambers are machined so thin that when you grip them you're actually making the threads tighter. (This happens with my mech-mod tube sections and safety rings all the time) Some times you can barely hold them and get them to come right off. Other times it may take an act of God to get the damned things to pop loose!

edit: to answer your question, your threads are probably fine. That part probably over-tightens when you screw the tank together. Mine does it all the time, and hot water with a light grip usually gets it to move. If not, I have Brass pliers as a last resort.
 
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Elyptic

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A lot of times the chambers are machined so thin that when you grip them you're actually making the threads tighter. (This happens with my mech-mod tube sections and safety rings all the time) Some times you can barely hold them and get them to come right off. Other times it may take an act of God to get the damned things to pop loose!

edit: to answer your question, your threads are probably fine. That part probably over-tightens when you screw the tank together. Mine does it all the time, and hot water with a light grip usually gets it to move. If not, I have Brass pliers as a last resort.

The other option is to take a rubber band and wrap it around the chimney to get a better grip. This way, you have some grip without having to squeeze the chimney.

I have the same problem with the plastic Kayfun tank I have. The tighter I squeeze, the harder it is to get the threads to loosen.
 
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