I wicked it like RipTrippers did in his video. New for me was to push a needle down the juice channel to "see light".
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The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics
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I wicked it like RipTrippers did in his video. New for me was to push a needle down the juice channel to "see light".
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That is a pretty solid way to wick the Lemo, if you are doing it like that it should minimize any leaking. Using a vacuum style tank like the Lemo though, leaking while on it's side will always be a concern. Once you give one of the channels access to the air in the tank as well as the outside air (through the airflow hole), while the other channel has access to the juice, the chamber is going fill up. Good wicking will keep it in check for a short time, but given enough time it is just going to happen.
WeirdWillie: just have to thank you once more, this wicking method of your's is still keeping up. And with some small trials on trimming the tails vs length etc i seem to have found a working method to keep wicking perfectly good and not seeing temperature limit being reached. And this even on 90vg/10pg. So I am really starting to like this ni200 and dna40 stuff. And the lemo has just once had a connection issue, and that was my mistake, not cleaning up all the juice after filling it.
Thanks WW for this idea!! I was concerned about trying this with Kanthal and Rayon so I kind of put it aside. Until today! I busy doing my normal hedge trimming on my rayon wick and realized I chopped too much off for my liking. Fearing it might not be enough to keep from leaking I thought about your "bridge" method. Well knowing that rayon has a tendency to pull/hold juice in the thicker parts of the wick I was still concerned. Then I got the idea of using cotton for the bridge over the rayon wick! Well so far so good!!! I think the rayon will win that battle within!
Really, I think that the cotton bridge will act as a barrier from leaking and a secondary reservoir of juice for the rayon! Win-Win! Thank you again for sharing your knowledge!!
Glad you guys were able to put the technique to use.
It may not be the prettiest and even counter intuitive to what some will tell you, but it will give you the same vape every time.
Well at least it does for me, with my customary 3mm 6 wrap spaced 28/30 twisted Ni200 coil.
It may not be the prettiest and even counter intuitive to what some will tell you, but it will give you the same vape every time.
Well at least it does for me, with my customary 3mm 6 wrap spaced 28/30 twisted Ni200 coil.
i need help... today my new bought lemo drop came, i took everything apart without really paying much attention. After I put everything back together, the atomizer is always short or my istick can't connect with it...what should i do?
so i finally decided to try this bridge wicking method. i made slight adjustment. as my bridging wick material holds back my cotton(using cotton ball) in the coil from expanding over the the fill hole for the juice to go into the well. which has made a huge difference if you have the AFC ring remove. i have to say at first i didn't expect it to be much better, but i was wrong. wicking this way has brought a truly epic experience.
26 gauge kanthal, standard coil, 1.2 ohm, 7/8 wraps, somewhere around 3mm I.D., lead are trapped in post holes and i also have the AFC ring removed. depending on the juice im using i vape anywhere from 20- 40w.
thanks again for sharing this method.
26 gauge kanthal, standard coil, 1.2 ohm, 7/8 wraps, somewhere around 3mm I.D., lead are trapped in post holes and i also have the AFC ring removed. depending on the juice im using i vape anywhere from 20- 40w.
thanks again for sharing this method.
Sounds like you might have left out an insulator. There should be two in the adapter base, under the piece the 510 screw screws into and another in the threading of the screw hole. What is the resistance of the coil you are putting on?
Do you mean short circuit or too short to reach the 510 of the Istick?
EDIT: Sorry, after reading again, I'm sure you meant short circuit.
EDIT: Sorry, after reading again, I'm sure you meant short circuit.
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I generally use 26g. Not too springy, not too thick. Easy to work with.
I do, too, but it depends on what kind of power you're supplying to it. If you don't have at least 20 watts or so, it will take too long to warm up (28g works pretty well on lower power devices, though). What kind of mod are you putting the Lemo on, Chuck?
I currently have an IPV mini I plan to use to start with. Was thinking of getting an Istick 50w when they come out. The 20w Istick has performed perfectly for me, so I figured I would give the 50w a go ($45 on preorder makes it even better deal).
Thanks
Thanks
Yeah, with 30 watts, you're good on the 26 guage kanthal. I like an 8 wrap coil on a 1/8" bit mounted through the holes in my Lemo. Comes out to about 1.3 ohms and I run it at 22.5 watts. Everybody likes different things, though, so try a few of the builds you've seen here and see what fits your taste.
Absolutely. If you're getting a couple, pick up some 28 as well. I use that in my RDA builds for high wattage mods, and in Kayfuns. 26 and 28 tend to be the most versatile - 30 is really thin and springy, so it can be pretty difficult to work with and 24 is so big it can take a lot of power to heat up (although it's still usable with the higher wattage).
I did a 7 wrap with 26g and it gave me .7 ohms in my Lemo that I'm running at 24.6 watts on the ipv60 watt box.
.7 at 24 watts is right in the edge of the Lemo's possibilities, so don't be surprised if a longer draw ends with a dry wick. I just made the same coil recently and had to take it off my mech and put it on the VS at 21 watts. Next one will be .8 so I can put it back on my mech.
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