I have this issue with an Orchid on my IPV2 as well and have yet to figure it out...
Does your Lemo fire on other units? Sorry if I missed the answer in a prior post.
The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics
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I have this issue with an Orchid on my IPV2 as well and have yet to figure it out...
Does your Lemo fire on other units? Sorry if I missed the answer in a prior post.
Yup, fires fine on my iStick, sigelei 100w, Flip, and Panzer but no luck on the Cana. Ironically I got the Lemo to match with my Cana lol.
The 510 screw probably needs to be adjusted out on the Lemo. They are tight out of the box and you may need to hold the pin from the other side with a needle nose when first unscrewing it. After that, it will adjust easily.
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Check the position of your coil. If you have it too close to the air hole, you will restrict airflow. Also, make sure you are using enough wicking material and you do not have it packed around the air hole too tightly.
I assume you are referring to this? I was thinking the same thing when I read his post, but thought it would be kind of hard to restrict air in that manner on one of these tanks. I've had serious air flow issues on tanks with the air holes on the deck. Just like you said, too much wick, and big coils too close to the air holes or just taking up too much room in the chamber.
Just got two Lemos yesterday after having fallen completely in love with my Russian 91% and wanting a few more RTAs of a similar style, but not being made completely out of money. These things are just great for their price point, IMO. My minor gripe is that the airflow control seems a little jumpy. It inexplicably closed completely on me last night which led to some flooding and leaking. It also seems a little prone to leaking juice out of the chimney when turning it over to fill it, but I suspect that a touch more wicking material corrects that problem. I'm even into the removable 510 connector section because it doubles as a catch for juice in the even of minor leaks.
Amazing vapor production and the flavor is about equal to my Russian, so all in all I adore these affordable little RTAs and hope they don't go anywhere anytime soon.
Amazing vapor production and the flavor is about equal to my Russian, so all in all I adore these affordable little RTAs and hope they don't go anywhere anytime soon.
I've actually been kind of surprised at how well the air flow ring stays in place on my lemo, that seems to be the biggest complaint about it. I have mine a few small turns past wide open, maybe the more you get towards the middle of the screw the more prone it is to loosening up. I agree with Vitamin Dei's conviction about the 510 connector, it's kind of nice that if you do have leaking you don't have to worry about it getting into your the connector of your battery.
On a side note, does anyone know when the lemo drop is coming out? I noticed eleaf has it on their worldwide website (eleafword.com) but not their U.S. site (eleafus.com). I also noticed on their worldwide site they have another rta called the Alpha. It's a total kayfun rip off, right down to the air flow adjustment and the drip tip, but if it is priced the same as the Lemo it might be worth checking out, could be better than some of the other kayfun clones out there.
On a side note, does anyone know when the lemo drop is coming out? I noticed eleaf has it on their worldwide website (eleafword.com) but not their U.S. site (eleafus.com). I also noticed on their worldwide site they have another rta called the Alpha. It's a total kayfun rip off, right down to the air flow adjustment and the drip tip, but if it is priced the same as the Lemo it might be worth checking out, could be better than some of the other kayfun clones out there.
Wow, got mine in and this thing on my Vaporshark straight chucks the flavor and vapor... love the fact that it has a NICE super loose draw or tight.... was my biggest complaint of the Kayfuns, the flavor was great, but super tight draw....
The Lemo also wicks my 80 vg liquids great as well, first tank I haven't had to drill out to achieve that with.
Highly recommend.
The Lemo also wicks my 80 vg liquids great as well, first tank I haven't had to drill out to achieve that with.
Highly recommend.
That screw isn't an adjustment screw. I loosened mine up and the ohm readings started jumping all over the place. I ended up shimming the screw with part of a tiny o-ring.
None of mine came with chimney o-rings even though there is a groove to put them in.
I assure you it is. It is the screw on the bottom base section, not the screw on the build deck.
Although the picture is incorrect, it is mentioned in the included manual as adjustable for battery contact. Once the base section is screwed on securely, it holds the internal pin firmly in the base. I've had no issues with jumping resistance readings.
I agree it is adjustable, and have done it a few times myself. and shown in this picture as adjustable too
So in response to positioning coil height correctly....how does everyone do that? My experience so far is only rebuilding Kanger coils and the height of the coil is pretty much predetermined on them. Height of coil is something I am curious about.
I too plan to replicate what pbusardo did for his build. I think his video quality is excellent, and I can really see what's going on to just follow along.
Thought my Lemo would com in today's mail, but no such luck. Most likely Monday. Thanks in advance for suggestions on setting this up correctly the first time. Planning to use 30 ga Kanthal, microcoil 1.6 mm dia, at approx 1.6 ohm with organic cotton wick.
I too plan to replicate what pbusardo did for his build. I think his video quality is excellent, and I can really see what's going on to just follow along.
Thought my Lemo would com in today's mail, but no such luck. Most likely Monday. Thanks in advance for suggestions on setting this up correctly the first time. Planning to use 30 ga Kanthal, microcoil 1.6 mm dia, at approx 1.6 ohm with organic cotton wick.
I would suggest a larger diameter coil to get more wick in there. The deck on this thing is huge. Try 28gauge as its very useful for a single coil tank. Aim for about 3/32" inside diameter.
Later when you're feeling more confident a twisted or parallel coil is fun to try.
Ok...so help me with my noob questions, please. In a general way I'm a bit confused about how different coil builds perform. Guessing your suggestion for larger diameter and more wick material will just perform better as it will bring more juice and larger surface area of coil = more vapor, yes?
Eventually I will buy some 28 ga Kanthal, but only have 30 now. Will it still be beneficial to wrap a larger diameter coil? Or should I just use the coil that comes with the atty till I can get some 28 ga wire?
And still curious about coil positioning specifically the height.
I have to say I've been reluctant to even use a small coil in a kayfun. True story: my friend and I were interested in trying rbas. She bought an authentic Kayfun but was afraid to build it. Took it to a B&M and had them do it. She said it was awful. Took it to another the next day and still thought it was awful. She sent it to me to try. I was as much a newbie as she was. I looked at the tiny coil in it and thought it needed more wick. I built my first kayfun coil using 3/32", wicked it and said omg, I love this! She actually told me I could keep it, but I said, try it with my build first, and if you still hate it I'll be happy to keep it. I talked her through filling over the phone. Ten minutes later she called me back to say how much she loved it
. She's still using that coil.The coil should be about 2mm above the airhole.
You could use 30 gauge. Its going to heat up fast so lower your power on your mod. Mine never had the pre-installed coil so I don't know how good or bad it is.
Can someone take a pic of their coil from the side? I rewicked this afternoon so I won't be tearing down for a few days.
Ok. Will try a few things. Rebuilding the Kanger coils got me at least over the fear of building the coils....and frankly, I think building on this Lemo will be much easier than working in the tiny space of those Kanger coil bases while trying to prevent shorts. I don't have a fear of trying things out now. Any pros/cons to having the coils touching in your opinion? Do you get better airflow if they are separated? Not sure if that makes it a macro coil or if that's technically just the diameter of the coil.
I always compress my coils, but a lot of people now are saying spaced coils work better with rayon ? I haven't tried a spaced one.
I'm unclear about what diameter makes a coil a micro or macro. Or maybe its wire gauge. I choose gauge for what I'm trying to achieve. My mvp only goes to 11W. So I use 29 or 30 to get a coil that heats well at that range. I use 24 or 26 in a dual coil dripper that I'm going to vape at high power. I use 28 for most of my tanks and rm2 on my reo.
I'm unclear about what diameter makes a coil a micro or macro. Or maybe its wire gauge. I choose gauge for what I'm trying to achieve. My mvp only goes to 11W. So I use 29 or 30 to get a coil that heats well at that range. I use 24 or 26 in a dual coil dripper that I'm going to vape at high power. I use 28 for most of my tanks and rm2 on my reo.
OK. 28 ga Kanthal on the way in the mail, should arrive by Friday. In the meantime, would love to hear everyone's theories on good diameter for coils on the Lemo, what wicks best in their experience for horizontal coil. Aiming for a 1.8ohm build or so. That just puts me the middle of my range and will give me lots of range to work with on my istick for power.
I sort of like the idea of the larger diameter wire, as I understand it will last longer ...and I assume is less prone to losing shape once built, so a person can get the wick in there just right.
Ideally, do you want your horizontal coil length to be same length as the air hole, smaller than, or larger than the air hole on the build deck?
I sort of like the idea of the larger diameter wire, as I understand it will last longer ...and I assume is less prone to losing shape once built, so a person can get the wick in there just right.
Ideally, do you want your horizontal coil length to be same length as the air hole, smaller than, or larger than the air hole on the build deck?
When I use 27 or 28 gauge I use 3/32 for most of my builds. If I am doing a single parallel I will go up to 7/64's so I can have a larger wick in the coil.
The length is dependent on the number of turns in your coil vs the gauge of wire and also if you are going to compress the coil. I don't compress my coils unless I'm doing a micro coil ( less than 1.5 mm ID). I think that's what you are asking?
Not sure if you are using a coil calculator or not. Here is a link to a great one...Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
Hope that helps.
The length is dependent on the number of turns in your coil vs the gauge of wire and also if you are going to compress the coil. I don't compress my coils unless I'm doing a micro coil ( less than 1.5 mm ID). I think that's what you are asking?
Not sure if you are using a coil calculator or not. Here is a link to a great one...Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
Hope that helps.
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