The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics

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cigatron

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how often should wick be changed? In tank measurement:) still learning, so trying to save on cotton, but also don't want to burn the crap out of it.

Let the flavor be your guide. Change the cotton when your juice flavor begins to drop off or is replaced with a slightly burny taste. Cotton is cheap. $15 for 60 Kgd pads, $12 for a huge box of CC Rayon, $4 for a bag of organic balls.

How many mils of juice you can vape between wick changes is dependent upon juice type and proper power settings. For me it's 5-10ml for NETs and Dirtier Juices, 10-20ml for cleaner juices, 20-30ml for very clean juices and up to 60ml for unflavored 3mg/ml nic base. Every juice is different.


Power settings too low will gunk things up quicker, carmalizing unvaporized juice onto the coil. Power settings too high will burn juice onto the coil.

Play around with the wattage/ voltage settings to achieve the greatest vapor density, not the greatest vapor quantity; the greatest vapor density (thickness). Typically that's the power setting that will provide the best flavor and longest wick life because the juice vaporizing temperature at the coil is ideal.
 
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Frito

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I'm loving my Lemo, except for filling it. I've discovered a much easier way that works for me. With one hand hold the glass and keep constant downward pressure on it. With your other hand unscrew the top cap and set it aside. Now you can quickly refill from the top and then replace the top cap. I've been doing it this way for a few days with no leaking and it's a lot faster.
 

KeepItSimpleStupid

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OK all. I'm generally using 28ga kanthal for my coils, and have really been struggling with the post hole screws and getting my leads trapped underneath. Have most of you given up on them and replaced with another screw? It seems that going with 26 ga wire or larger might make things worse.I eventually get it done, but man I struggle.



I've had ZERO success trapping the leads in the terminal holes.

Tips?

I haven't had any issues trapping the wire, but I've used 24g and twisted 26g, my question is......is the wire not staying under the screw to be tightened down on? is it moving from under the screw to the sides? if you take a wire u have laying around.....put it inside the hole just far enough to where it would end just on the other side of the bottom of the screw....tighten it down.....look threw the other side with a flash light and get a look at what's going on in there, but like i said i use thicker wire and havent had a single issue, they tighten down nice, and don't loosen up..even when im tugging and pulling to raise...angle...and adjust the coil where i want it...the only issue i had was i tightened one down too tight one night and it snapped the wire, but that was my own fault

NOTE......please excuse my ignorance, I'm sure you read my original post with your head tilted to the side asking yourself.....is this dude forreal? Or being a smart ...? But I completely ignored the part about trapping the wire under the screw heads so my whole post was only referencing the post holes, lol, and I think i neglected that lil part is because those screws are so tiny that the wire I use prolly wouldn't be able to be secured under the screws
 
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Elyptic

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I'm loving my Lemo, except for filling it. I've discovered a much easier way that works for me. With one hand hold the glass and keep constant downward pressure on it. With your other hand unscrew the top cap and set it aside. Now you can quickly refill from the top and then replace the top cap. I've been doing it this way for a few days with no leaking and it's a lot faster.

I've done this too, but with the rubber stopper that comes with it, I find it's just as easy to refill the normal way, and I think I can get a bit more juice in it.
 

Elyptic

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Having had the Lemo Drop now for a couple weeks, I have to say that this thing exceeds my expectations, especially at it's price point.

That's not to say all is perfect. My main goal was to use the Lemo as a large deck to build nickel coils for my VS DNA40. However, doing so can be somewhat fussy. Not so much with the build deck, but with the connections of the Lemo. I've found that the two biggest issues so far with this atomizer are the 510 pin, and the internal connection between the bottom cap and the positive post.

Using the hack posted in this thread for adding a small piece of insulator seems to have solved the short pin issue. However, about 50% of the time I'm still finding that the internal connection isn't mating securely. Fussing with the bottom cap (removing it and re-attaching it seems to sometimes help), but measuring this with calipers shows me that it's just barely touching (at least on my sample) when the bottom cap is screwed all the way in.

Has anyone else had this problem? Is there some fix in this thread?

Regardless, this has been one of the best $40 vaping purchases I've made -- when it works, it really works!
 

RandyF

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Having had the Lemo Drop now for a couple weeks, I have to say that this thing exceeds my expectations, especially at it's price point.

That's not to say all is perfect. My main goal was to use the Lemo as a large deck to build nickel coils for my VS DNA40. However, doing so can be somewhat fussy. Not so much with the build deck, but with the connections of the Lemo. I've found that the two biggest issues so far with this atomizer are the 510 pin, and the internal connection between the bottom cap and the positive post.

Using the hack posted in this thread for adding a small piece of insulator seems to have solved the short pin issue. However, about 50% of the time I'm still finding that the internal connection isn't mating securely. Fussing with the bottom cap (removing it and re-attaching it seems to sometimes help), but measuring this with calipers shows me that it's just barely touching (at least on my sample) when the bottom cap is screwed all the way in.

Has anyone else had this problem? Is there some fix in this thread?

Regardless, this has been one of the best $40 vaping purchases I've made -- when it works, it really works!

If you are talking about the center post screw (the one into the build deck) and the internal connection to the base, then I would imagine there is a very fine line between making connection and not since there is no give either way, and the two need to be flush. Maybe a similar fix to the base 510 pin would be possible, it would just need to be a very thin washer because you will only be wanting to add a fraction of a millimeter.

Edit: Maybe try replacing the insulator under the metal "hump", for lack of a better word, with a slightly thicker o-ring. The o-ring will give as you tighten the tank and base together, which should give a better connection.
 
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horton

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The short pin seems to be the major weak point for the Lemo but I'll take it any day over other devices costing much more and with overly complex mechanisms. So far I've not had any problems with it on the vaporizers I use (Provari 1, SIDS, Sigelei Vamo??) .
Something else that hasn't been much of an issue is filling the Lemo. I am still using the screw since it hasn't caused me any problems and doesn't leak. I use a cheap magnetized screwdriver and once it is unthreaded the screw stays with the screwdriver while I'm adding juice. (No rust because I get water off of the device after rinsing and coat with some VG -- at least it's working so far.) I then pick up the 'driver and screw and replace it. Maybe it will become a hassle some day and I'll try the silicon gasket that came with it, but for now I'm one happy camper.
These devices are probably the best bang for the buck out there currently.......:toast:
 

puffon

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    Having had the Lemo Drop now for a couple weeks, I have to say that this thing exceeds my expectations, especially at it's price point.

    That's not to say all is perfect. My main goal was to use the Lemo as a large deck to build nickel coils for my VS DNA40. However, doing so can be somewhat fussy. Not so much with the build deck, but with the connections of the Lemo. I've found that the two biggest issues so far with this atomizer are the 510 pin, and the internal connection between the bottom cap and the positive post.

    Using the hack posted in this thread for adding a small piece of insulator seems to have solved the short pin issue. However, about 50% of the time I'm still finding that the internal connection isn't mating securely. Fussing with the bottom cap (removing it and re-attaching it seems to sometimes help), but measuring this with calipers shows me that it's just barely touching (at least on my sample) when the bottom cap is screwed all the way in.

    Has anyone else had this problem? Is there some fix in this thread?

    Regardless, this has been one of the best $40 vaping purchases I've made -- when it works, it really works!

    Yep, One of mine is fine. The other needed a shim.
    Like Randy said, you could try an o-ring or a thin washer.
    I made a shim from a plastic milk carton.
     

    RandyF

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    Yep, One of mine is fine. The other needed a shim.
    Like Randy said, you could try an o-ring or a thin washer.
    I made a shim from a plastic milk carton.

    Good idea. I have 3 Lemo's and I can get different readings on my Ni builds simply by swapping one base for another. Will give the milk carton washer a try.
     

    Uncletattoowhat

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    Flip the ceramic spacer/o-ring that the airflow pin goes through on the inside of the base. One side of it is slightly "countersunk" to accept the pin. If you flip it, it will push the pin out a hair farther, leaving less margin for error on contact to the 510 base. Worked on mine anyway.
     

    RandyF

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    Flip the ceramic spacer/o-ring that the airflow pin goes through on the inside of the base. One side of it is slightly "countersunk" to accept the pin. If you flip it, it will push the pin out a hair farther, leaving less margin for error on contact to the 510 base. Worked on mine anyway.

    If I understood Elyptic correctly, he was trying to make a better connection between the deck screw and the inside connection to the base. Flipping that insulator won't help that connection.
     

    WeirdWillie

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    Flip the ceramic spacer/o-ring that the airflow pin goes through on the inside of the base. One side of it is slightly "countersunk" to accept the pin. If you flip it, it will push the pin out a hair farther, leaving less margin for error on contact to the 510 base. Worked on mine anyway.
    Yes this trick works like a charm.
    Also if you put a small kayfun upper chimney/top cap o-ring and install it between the white washer under the bottom cap center pin and the base, this will raise the center pin slightly so it make good contact with the airflow/center pin on the Lemo
    On most regulated mods these little connection quarks don't really cause issues, but if you are going to run it on a DNA40 you can be sure they will give you fits.
    With exception of the actual DNA40 screen glitch on early versions, all other issues are due to poor connections, and once you have sorted them out there is no better match the the DNA40 and the Lemo.
     

    Elyptic

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    Yep, One of mine is fine. The other needed a shim.
    Like Randy said, you could try an o-ring or a thin washer.
    I made a shim from a plastic milk carton.

    Sounds good! Not too worried if the shim is a bit too thick, as I think all that will do is prevent he bottom cap from screwing on all the way.

    Milk carton is a great idea! I was also thinking that I could use layers of electrical tape.


    Bits scrambled by Tapatalk...
     
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    cigatron

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    Sounds good! Not too worried if the shim is a bit too thick, as I think all that will do is prevent he bottom cap from screwing on all the way.

    Milk carton is a great idea! I was also thinking that I could use layers of electrical tape.


    Bits scrambled by Tapatalk...

    My base won't screw on all the way. Pins prevent it. Great contact but leaves about .005"(.13mm) gap. Rather have the gap than intermittent contact. China quality strikes again!
     

    MegaVap

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    Sounds good! Not too worried if the shim is a bit too thick, as I think all that will do is prevent he bottom cap from screwing on all the way.

    Milk carton is a great idea! I was also thinking that I could use layers of electrical tape.


    Bits scrambled by Tapatalk...

    This works, someone else recommended this trick, forgot what thread it was tho. I personally used a piece of plastic cut in the shape of the white insulator. I had to do it when I extended the 510 adj center screw to protrude. But you do have to tighten that base on pretty good. Now I get great connection!
     
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    Elyptic

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    My base won't screw on all the way. Pins prevent it. Great contact but leaves about .005"(.13mm) gap. Rather have the gap than intermittent contact. China quality strikes again!

    Exactly! My Lemo drop is black and I really don't think anyone could notice a gap. And seriously, what do I cars so long as it works!


    Bits scrambled by Tapatalk...
     

    Kyi

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    Just wanted to say I got my Lemo Drop today. USPS lost it in the mail and the delivery got delayed 3 days but it's all good now.

    I would have used it right out of the box, but it had a bit of a machine oil smell to it and taste when I sucked through the drip tip. I took it apart, removed the pre-installed wick but kept the coil, and gave it a quick hot water and soap wash. No traces of machine oil left so there must've not been that much on there. Put in some Japanese cotton, primed it up, then put it back together and filled her up. Took a few hits before it started hitting good and it leaked a little bit through the air holes (I did cover the holes and suck through it to get some of the juice to wick more... might have over done it), but now it's vaping like a champ.

    I was worried about the airflow being too airy for my taste, but I was able to tighten it and adjust it to my liking and now it's great! I am loving this thing and I'm glad I got it over the Kayfun 4, although I might still pick one up in the future to mess with. The preinstalled coil reads at 1.1 ohms and I'm vaping it at 16 watts on my iStick 30, which looks great with it. Now I just hope I don't drop it and shatter the glass tank.
     

    Canno

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    A couple of new drip tips from the b&m.
     
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