how often should wick be changed? In tank measurement
still learning, so trying to save on cotton, but also don't want to burn the crap out of it.
how often should wick be changed? In tank measurementstill learning, so trying to save on cotton, but also don't want to burn the crap out of it.
OK all. I'm generally using 28ga kanthal for my coils, and have really been struggling with the post hole screws and getting my leads trapped underneath. Have most of you given up on them and replaced with another screw? It seems that going with 26 ga wire or larger might make things worse.I eventually get it done, but man I struggle.
I've had ZERO success trapping the leads in the terminal holes.
Tips?
I'm loving my Lemo, except for filling it. I've discovered a much easier way that works for me. With one hand hold the glass and keep constant downward pressure on it. With your other hand unscrew the top cap and set it aside. Now you can quickly refill from the top and then replace the top cap. I've been doing it this way for a few days with no leaking and it's a lot faster.
Having had the Lemo Drop now for a couple weeks, I have to say that this thing exceeds my expectations, especially at it's price point.
That's not to say all is perfect. My main goal was to use the Lemo as a large deck to build nickel coils for my VS DNA40. However, doing so can be somewhat fussy. Not so much with the build deck, but with the connections of the Lemo. I've found that the two biggest issues so far with this atomizer are the 510 pin, and the internal connection between the bottom cap and the positive post.
Using the hack posted in this thread for adding a small piece of insulator seems to have solved the short pin issue. However, about 50% of the time I'm still finding that the internal connection isn't mating securely. Fussing with the bottom cap (removing it and re-attaching it seems to sometimes help), but measuring this with calipers shows me that it's just barely touching (at least on my sample) when the bottom cap is screwed all the way in.
Has anyone else had this problem? Is there some fix in this thread?
Regardless, this has been one of the best $40 vaping purchases I've made -- when it works, it really works!
Having had the Lemo Drop now for a couple weeks, I have to say that this thing exceeds my expectations, especially at it's price point.
That's not to say all is perfect. My main goal was to use the Lemo as a large deck to build nickel coils for my VS DNA40. However, doing so can be somewhat fussy. Not so much with the build deck, but with the connections of the Lemo. I've found that the two biggest issues so far with this atomizer are the 510 pin, and the internal connection between the bottom cap and the positive post.
Using the hack posted in this thread for adding a small piece of insulator seems to have solved the short pin issue. However, about 50% of the time I'm still finding that the internal connection isn't mating securely. Fussing with the bottom cap (removing it and re-attaching it seems to sometimes help), but measuring this with calipers shows me that it's just barely touching (at least on my sample) when the bottom cap is screwed all the way in.
Has anyone else had this problem? Is there some fix in this thread?
Regardless, this has been one of the best $40 vaping purchases I've made -- when it works, it really works!
Yep, One of mine is fine. The other needed a shim.
Like Randy said, you could try an o-ring or a thin washer.
I made a shim from a plastic milk carton.
Flip the ceramic spacer/o-ring that the airflow pin goes through on the inside of the base. One side of it is slightly "countersunk" to accept the pin. If you flip it, it will push the pin out a hair farther, leaving less margin for error on contact to the 510 base. Worked on mine anyway.
Yes this trick works like a charm.Flip the ceramic spacer/o-ring that the airflow pin goes through on the inside of the base. One side of it is slightly "countersunk" to accept the pin. If you flip it, it will push the pin out a hair farther, leaving less margin for error on contact to the 510 base. Worked on mine anyway.
Yep, One of mine is fine. The other needed a shim.
Like Randy said, you could try an o-ring or a thin washer.
I made a shim from a plastic milk carton.
Sounds good! Not too worried if the shim is a bit too thick, as I think all that will do is prevent he bottom cap from screwing on all the way.
Milk carton is a great idea! I was also thinking that I could use layers of electrical tape.
Bits scrambled by Tapatalk...
Sounds good! Not too worried if the shim is a bit too thick, as I think all that will do is prevent he bottom cap from screwing on all the way.
Milk carton is a great idea! I was also thinking that I could use layers of electrical tape.
Bits scrambled by Tapatalk...
My base won't screw on all the way. Pins prevent it. Great contact but leaves about .005"(.13mm) gap. Rather have the gap than intermittent contact. China quality strikes again!