You need to do a loaded volts test. There is no 18650 made that vapes at 4.2 volts.The 18650s look great. I want to buy one... The only concern I have is that they are regulated at 3.7? My understanding is that means even when the batt is fully charged at 4.2, the NoEgo will only put out 3.7? If so, may be a dealbreaker for me as I depend on that 4.2.
The new 18650 NoEgo
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And then, if using a 2.5 Ohm atty, an ego fatbat will work well, but a 1,5 atty at a NoEgo with a 2400mA bat will behave quiet different if compared to a also 3.7 V Riva with 750mA. Amps are as important as volts can be.
I fried my switch playing with 3v LiPo4's and 3.6v Lions. I don't recall which fried it exactly, as neither fried it immediately.
Enter at your own risk. Play around if you're so curious that you can't stand it but be prepared to order a replacement switch if things don't work out.
Me, I'm waiting for the 5v and VV switch before I fry another one. batteries on standby.
Not exactly. Here's a loaded volts test by tonyfalcon.
Two freshly charged Tenergy Li-PO4s firing a Joye 510 (2.1Ω).
Romaniac, any word on those 5v switches? I know you want them in worse than any of us and only ask because tomorrow is my payday.
They are the mouth pieces from mega DC They slide over a standard carto perfectly.
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Bump to join. Keep up the good works, guys. Simply reading this thread has been very educational. Looking forward to the VV product.
fsroq, can you give us a report on the NoEgo + eGoBooster combination?
Thanks, JJ
fsroq, can you give us a report on the NoEgo + eGoBooster combination?
Thanks, JJ
Romaniac, any word on those 5v switches? I know you want them in worse than any of us and only ask because tomorrow is my payday.
Any word Romaniac?
Also, I saw someone in this thread mention taking apart a NoEgo switch. How would one go about that? I have a dead 18650 switch I want to dissect FOR SCIENCE!
pull the center contact and then get something hooked in the hole and wiggle the pressed in bottom plate out. Lightly heating the outer body may help but be careful to not over heat and melt the plastic insert. Some are tuff and some are easy...
Thanks. I'm IT/Sysadmin by trade and a technology geek in general but weak in the actual electronics area. But the thing's broken so I have nothing to lose. Four blinks of death.
Do you think it's possible to bypass whatever is fried in the switch (voltage protection I'm guessing) or to otherwise convert it to a just a dumb switch? With protected batteries of course.
Do you think it's possible to bypass whatever is fried in the switch (voltage protection I'm guessing) or to otherwise convert it to a just a dumb switch? With protected batteries of course.
If you can handle smd you can bypass the controller and just fire the mosfet in there. I have not studied the traces on the board yet to see what goes where but it should be doable. You wan't to keep the board and spacer so you can use the switch that is there. Otherwise you might be able to scab a plunger switch into the switch hole and just float a mosfet in the cavity.
I would try cleaning the connector with alcohol first to make sure a buildup isn't shorting in the connector causing your issues. This has fixed mine a couple of times. Also try stretching the battery spring to make sure it is making good contact. These two things should solve most issues unless the board is actually messed up.
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