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You need to have super human strength to be able to unscrew the pin from the button! its glued like crazy, either loctite or some type of glue that they use for space flight missions 
I gave up trying to take mine apart and just left it alone, before I break it. But you can try heating the bottom of the button a bit and see if it works, soaking the switch with alcohol, freezing the switch in the fridge, or by whacking/tapping the bottom of the switch and pray it loosens up.
I gave up trying to take mine apart and just left it alone, before I break it. But you can try heating the bottom of the button a bit and see if it works, soaking the switch with alcohol, freezing the switch in the fridge, or by whacking/tapping the bottom of the switch and pray it loosens up.
how the hell did you take the bottom firing buttom apart? i couldnt for the life of me take it apart with my pliers holding the inside pin
anyways here is my 8w with the sigelei 19 body fitting 18490 with fasttech nimbus clone
Take a small torch to the bottom of the button and get a piler that can get a grip on the bolt and a channel lock wrench with a cloth and torque it a little till it breaks it may take more than one heating. Good Luck
i'll have my ithaka tomorrow, i'll post a pic of it on my 18350 8w.
I think they'll look good together. Hopefully they'll vape well too.
I ordered 2.5mm silica and some 1.5ohm ready wires from stormy's vapor cellar, this will be my first build using no-res wire. I'm gonna get rid of the knurling on the air control ring, put a lil taper on it to make it look a little slimmer on the 8w. the 8w is 22mm wide and ithaka is 23mm.
My #8w in 18350 mode
My ghost modder tip gets dark and sometimes green from pluid lol. I have to clean it often.
Has anyone found replacement switches for the 8w without the glue? I have the 8w tubes in both 18650 and 18350 but only one top and bottom. I understand that some other Sigelei switches are available, but are they compatible with the 8w threads? I really don't want to mess up the switch I have, but it has an extremely strong spring.
Wabbit
Added: This is the new Sigelei 19 switch with no glue. I was wondering if it has the same threads as the
8w? Anyone have a clue?
Wabbit
Added: This is the new Sigelei 19 switch with no glue. I was wondering if it has the same threads as the
8w? Anyone have a clue?
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Yes it has the same threads tried and tested
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Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Thank You ebhomepc
Now I just need to find where to get one. Celtic Vapes is out of stock.
Now I just need to find where to get one. Celtic Vapes is out of stock.
I am not 100% sure since I do not own a sig#19 or the sig#8w, but this user said that he was able to use the body sig#19 with his sig#8w. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...caravela-clone-sigelei-8w-2.html#post10212881
With this, I assume that they are threaded the same. Again, not 100% sure. Just an assumption.
I have both and you could probably change the battery tubes, but the battery orientation is the opposite. (the #19 is "upside down" from the #8). You can't mix the end caps. Why would you want to? From what I've read around here, everyone hates the magnetic #19 switch. And yes, my 19 misfires occasionally. I attribute this to getting the hang of "snapping" it with my pinkie finger.
I like them both, and I just ordered the #19 with the non-magnetic switch from Vaportek.
I like the Sigelei mods, and I think they're a good value. BUT, they are a mass produced copy of a $200ish hand crafted original. You can't compare the quality between the two. There is a market for both, and I think the clone market keeps the demand high for the originals.
Dunno about #19, but I can say this: The top caps for the #8 and #8w are NOT interchangeable. Wish they were.
I agree with you about the market for Sigelei and the top-tier mechs. I don't like the vendors themselves calling them clones of some other product, however. I know it will happen anyway, on the forums, and that's fine for giving people an idea about the rough design. I just think the mass production vendors shouldn't be trying to pretend they're something they're not. The #8w is nothing like a Caravela, for example, except maybe that it has a bottom button.
That said, the #8w is a really solid mech, as I previously described. It has a remarkably low voltage loss right out of the box. I've gotten used to the stiffness of the bottom button and won't be messing about trying to improve it. Can't go wrong with this mech. I have 2 and use them both all the time. I Don't use the #8 any longer because it doesn't hit as hard and I don't like side buttons.
Like I have said in a previous post the 8w and the 19e etc caps and buttons are interchangeable
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Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
I'm definitely getting another #8w and ithaka clone
i put an SG-1 between my ithy clone and 8w body. Steel tanks have already been ordered... update: I took off the section above the clear window of Ithaka and the top cap threads onto the window! i read that the oddy mouthpiece is a lil shorter and you lose 2mm of juice control adjustment (i don't get that juicy)... definitely ordering one of those to complete my super shortmode ithaka 8w
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