MMVapors
Very nice quality stuff but it is pricey, especially with the Euro to dollar loss for us US folks.
The Next Big thing.... Porous Ceramic Wicks
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MMVapors
Very nice quality stuff but it is pricey, especially with the Euro to dollar loss for us US folks.
YAY Vapemail from McMasters 
Look what I got...
20.3mm Silicone washers, perfect for the RSST pyrex tank conversion...
Dan
Look what I got...
20.3mm Silicone washers, perfect for the RSST pyrex tank conversion...
Dan
Top fire bottom cup press switch? I'm having a bit of deja vu, but you did do one like that right Dan? That is why I'm thinking this one has to be somehow different. The custom mags have discs with posts attached to fit through the holes in the plastic cage pieces and stick to whatever they are attached to but repel each other. Am I warm with any of this?
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Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Bap, I think your inbox is full.
Idk...it says not....I just sent you a pm so we will see
Tool steel does not have aluminum in it, so yes tool steel is different. This is a topic for a different thread
Tool steel does not have aluminum in it, so yes tool steel is different. This is a topic for a different thread
I see. Thanks for the response, nonetheless.
Just a suggestion.
On Monday I have 3 of the Ceramic Porous Wicks coming in from TankeCigs and I'll get 3 times the Wicks that you will.
The best vaping experience is with a Bottom Feeder and a compatible Atomizer that will spray liquid directly on to the wick as often as you want to. I just squeeze and the wick is saturated than the excess drips down. It's so much better than any other method.
I'm using a VV Bogger Box Bottom Feeder with a Reomizer 2 Atomizer. I have it set up 400ss Mesh, 28g wire 4 wraps. It comes out to .8 Ohm and my sweet spot is at around 4V. Each of my wicks only need to be less than 1/2 an inch long so I should get 3 wicks out of each stick. That's under $3.00 per wick. Considering that each one last months. It's a good deal.
If I break one, no Big Deal.
By the way, this thread has been super useful because I learned how to soften my 28g Wire by putting the wire in to my atomizer without the wick and heating it up a number of times before coiling. Forget the name of the method but it's going to save me a ton of headaches.
Thanks
On Monday I have 3 of the Ceramic Porous Wicks coming in from TankeCigs and I'll get 3 times the Wicks that you will.
The best vaping experience is with a Bottom Feeder and a compatible Atomizer that will spray liquid directly on to the wick as often as you want to. I just squeeze and the wick is saturated than the excess drips down. It's so much better than any other method.
I'm using a VV Bogger Box Bottom Feeder with a Reomizer 2 Atomizer. I have it set up 400ss Mesh, 28g wire 4 wraps. It comes out to .8 Ohm and my sweet spot is at around 4V. Each of my wicks only need to be less than 1/2 an inch long so I should get 3 wicks out of each stick. That's under $3.00 per wick. Considering that each one last months. It's a good deal.
If I break one, no Big Deal.
By the way, this thread has been super useful because I learned how to soften my 28g Wire by putting the wire in to my atomizer without the wick and heating it up a number of times before coiling. Forget the name of the method but it's going to save me a ton of headaches.
Thanks
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That would be fine. I would suggest using something with a diffused flame so you don't concentrate heat on a small area. Those kitchen pin torches are not made for heating things evenly. I really think holding the wire above (not in) a candle flame is more that sufficient for this task.
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You guys are coming up with some great questions. After years of working with different materials I do a lot of things without thinking about it. Dealing with thermal expansion coefficients is one of them.
When you apply heat to a small area the expansion differential across any cristalline material will cause fractures. Think of it like glass. You can take a fan torch and heat a glass bottle evenly, then once up to temperature use a pin torch and punch a hole in the glass with no problem. Take that same bottle, don't pre-heat it and just use the pin torch on one spot and the bottle will shatter because that one spot on the bottle expanded much faster than the rest.
Ceramics are a bit more complicated but the principle is the same.
So if you're doing the annealing process on the kanthal using your atty, you should only use enough voltage to make the wick red vs orange/yellow? Haven't tried it yet, but just managed to trade my Cobra for a ZAP for the bigger wick hole so I'll be trying it soon.
As an aside I'm going to miss the Cobra. Highest quality atty out there IMO. Full titanium body, pyrex glass tank, dual wick, 5 threaded 2.5mm holes with screws (one for the fill hole, one for each wick, and one for each negative), double o-rings on the cap, 1mm air hole (more customizable since it starts out so small), etc. Was just no way to fit a decent sized ceramic in it, even if I modded it. Lets hope the ZAP (old not new, I can get over only having an etched cap vs engraved though lol) doesn't let me down.
As an aside I'm going to miss the Cobra. Highest quality atty out there IMO. Full titanium body, pyrex glass tank, dual wick, 5 threaded 2.5mm holes with screws (one for the fill hole, one for each wick, and one for each negative), double o-rings on the cap, 1mm air hole (more customizable since it starts out so small), etc. Was just no way to fit a decent sized ceramic in it, even if I modded it. Lets hope the ZAP (old not new, I can get over only having an etched cap vs engraved though lol) doesn't let me down.
I do the maximum possible with 28ga, irrespective what any theory says. It's about hot, cold, hot, cold ... extreme thermal changes ... about a dozen times or so that makes the wire very pliable if you wrap by hand around wick already installed in atty and best coiled right away without any delays.
One can take the pos. post out of the AGA-T2 & RSST, solidly wrap the coil around the wick ... temp. hold or clamp it ... and then put the post back in again and secure to get a very tight handwrap. Produces evenly spaced and consistent lateral winds when a 5/6 + up is called for, very smooth vapes.
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That's a ~version of short cycle annealing. As long as the wire is not sagging quickly (kanthal softens quickly above 1500F) It will do the job. I like it, simple and effective.
I anneal them with 2 - 18350s using a mechanical ... I've also done this maxing out the Provari getting nice bright orange coils, but the 6 volt mech makes it even hotter and seems to render the wire even more pliable after a dozen cycles. It does sag a bit, but not too much with the power available applied to it. I've had these setups for a month now and they are really hanging in there well ... no coil adjustments ... nothing, all still the same as the day I installed it. I can't see any reason why this can't last for another 3 - 6 months.
Correct but it was not feasible for mass production because the magnets had to be glued to the custom made washers and press fit. The problem is that the 1/8" washers would become crooked and not always fire, had to constantly rotate the battery to get it to fire. This setup solves that problem, the magnets are stepped so they can not slide out of the holders. And the holders can not become crooked. Very smooth operation. Also the custom magnets will protrude 1/16" beyond the holders ensuring contact to the battery and the center post of the atty.
My only problem is the custom magnets will take 9 weeks to be produced
So I will work on the body of the rig for now.
Dan
Well fine...here is this weekends project for me....
A little bit of this
Plus one of these
Equals this so far
WOOOOOT!! That's a 26650 battery!!! Wow...that will be some serious hang-time!
Very impressive. Are you going to be producing these MODs, or is it just for personal consumption?
Rather than a candel I used the stove top burner on a gas range,as you pointed out the flame on the range was much more diffused than the kitchen torch. I discovered it was also quite easy to anneal the wire that way, so I annealed the wire first then I hot wrapped the coil making sure just the wire glowed, but never the wick That may have been redundant..
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Does anyone know off-hand if the FC-2000 from Tank ECigs are channeled like the FC-2000 from Discount Vapers? Or are they still selling old stock?
Ok I finally arrived at the question that has been lingering in my subconscious for a while now...
Do these wicks fully saturate to the core or only on the outside? The material is porous, but that doesn't necessarily mean that all of the pores are connected - there is likely a significant chunk of isolated capillaries in the middle that never see juice. Anyone have a broken chunk of wick they could test this with?
I wonder if you could make a sturdier wick by knurling a solid ceramic rod...
Oh, and Dan.. ever get around to trying out the truncated channel idea?
Do these wicks fully saturate to the core or only on the outside? The material is porous, but that doesn't necessarily mean that all of the pores are connected - there is likely a significant chunk of isolated capillaries in the middle that never see juice. Anyone have a broken chunk of wick they could test this with?
I wonder if you could make a sturdier wick by knurling a solid ceramic rod...
Oh, and Dan.. ever get around to trying out the truncated channel idea?
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