The Official Nicoticket " Get the most from your juice thread."

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distortoblotto

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I love the OCC- still working on getting the wicking right for those, too! if I can master the rebuild, I'll put these RBAs to the side- messy to keep messing with!

May I ask a question? When you are wicking the OCC, are you using the stock sized 3mm coil?
 

solace.discord

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May I ask a question? When you are wicking the OCC, are you using the stock sized 3mm coil?
I've only tried maybe three times to dry burn and rewick the OCC. they way they come out of the box, I love them! rewicking is taking some practice.

now that I have a few gauges of Kanthal available, waiting on a spare base to rebuild with, then I'll try a few different sized coils.

how are you making out on these?
 

distortoblotto

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May I ask a question? When you are wicking the OCC, are you using the stock sized 3mm coil?

I've only tried maybe three times to dry burn and rewick the OCC. they way they come out of the box, I love them! rewicking is taking some practice.

now that I have a few gauges of Kanthal available, waiting on a spare base to rebuild with, then I'll try a few different sized coils.


how are you making out on these?

The reason I asked is that with the first couple of re-wicks, I was suffering some issues as well. If we think about it a bit, we are trying to wick a 3mm coil through a 2mm hole in the side of the coil housing. This is why I rip the stock 3mm coils out and rebuild them to 2mm. The coil is then the same diameter as the hole we are trying to thread the wick through thus making it easier to use the proper amount within the coil itself. Then by using the pinched close tweezers ( or in my case, a turkey "closer" needle, its easier to bunch up the proper amount on each side of the coil inside the housing to prevent the flooding.
 

LittleBird

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The reason I asked is that with the first couple of re-wicks, I was suffering some issues as well. If we think about it a bit, we are trying to wick a 3mm coil through a 2mm hole in the side of the coil housing. This is why I rip the stock 3mm coils out and rebuild them to 2mm. The coil is then the same diameter as the hole we are trying to thread the wick through thus making it easier to use the proper amount within the coil itself. Then by using the pinched close tweezers ( or in my case, a turkey "closer" needle, its easier to bunch up the proper amount on each side of the coil inside the housing to prevent the flooding.

On another thread, a couple of folks - inveterate tinkerers - suggested about a 2mm overhang of wick (2mm outside the coil housing on either side). They wet the overhanging wick with juice, then gently push it back into the housing so that it is flush. I tried that method, and it seems to be working. No flooding; no dry hits.
 

Flavored

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Gave it a try and I am NOT loving the Lemo! I guess it's time to begin the next quest! But that is part of the fun!

Me either! I may put mine in the classifieds along with an egrip.

Have two Lemo's as well. One is up and running and the other is still sealed in the box. I'll have to agree the Lemo is not without it's issues but once it is set up right, I find that it works pretty well. Of course having plenty of experience with Kayfun's and ditching the long legged coil set up in favor setting it up much the same way along with the proper wicking, was the key to getting it to work. I do love the draw on the thing.

*cough*

http://www.angelcigs.com/aqua-v2-style-rebuildable-atomizer-rta-rda-1-1.html
 

distortoblotto

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On another thread, a couple of folks - inveterate tinkerers - suggested about a 2mm overhang of wick (2mm outside the coil housing on either side). They wet the overhanging wick with juice, then gently push it back into the housing so that it is flush. I tried that method, and it seems to be working. No flooding; no dry hits.

I agree with this method too. Dry or wet the right amount of wick through the center of the coil complemented by the right amount of wick "bunched" to the sides of the coil is the key. It has to be tight enough to prevent flooding yet loose enough to allow for proper wicking.

Basically, its about learning how to stuff the box.....;)
 

Soignee

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Hey REO folks! Just a quick question. I am looking at a used REO and it's a LP. Can you use tanks like the nautilus mini and aerotank on a REO?

If it's an LP I believe you sure can. Might want to ask in Reoville though, I haven't actually tried it. There might be a stickie thread that addresses it...
 

solace.discord

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dry burned and rewicked an OCC with rayon.. a nice thick sliver I had to twist into the original coil.. clipped it, tucked it in, tested with half a tank and had to do non-fire pulls every now and again.

but now on a complete tank filling, I'm getting bubbles on their own, back at 15.2w, a third of the big air hole open, with tons of flavor and vapor, no dry hits!

I'll get the hang of this yet!

oh, I'm I'm starting to like the STMini on the 30w iStick. though I know the battery is only going to last this one tank, maybe two.
 
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distortoblotto

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Thanks!
Currently using an istick 20, have an istick 50 coming with my new tank.

Alawot, You've chosen a couple of very fine devices. I bought a pair of the 20's just to play with during a Black Friday sale and was so impressed with the little buggers, I bought a pair of 50's as well. Of the juices you listed in the "What are you vaping now" thread with, a 1.2 ohm coil, all should perform just grand between 9-14 watts. The Aspire mini's are perfect for the 20's. However, the SubTank you have coming is almost as if it is made for the 50. With the ACB and a 1.2 ohm coil in the ST, my preference is between 14-23.5 watts parked on top of the 50. In fact, I'm running with ACB on mine @18 watts right now....

ydTG5Kf.jpg
 
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