Is that a parallel or series box, Roxy? Maybe I need one.
Parallel. I'm very happy with it.
The Overlooked Tootle Puffer Gear Thread
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Parallel. I'm very happy with it.
Oh, I took the hot glue off. It serves no purpose. I think some of these places think you're supposed to put hot glue everywhere. Its not just China. A friend's Pyra had glue the size of a dog turd on the DNA30 board.
I'll put it on my list then. It looks really big in the picture, but by the dimensions it sounds like it might be close to my iStick 100s.
I finally got my Billow replacement tanks in and they fit perfect! No more spinning tank and leaks. It's now vaping perfectly. Doesn't even leak on its side. I'm really loving this tank.
Also got 2 Kayfun monster bases to fix my 3.1s and a heat gun, so my battery is now wrapped and in use.
I finally got my Billow replacement tanks in and they fit perfect! No more spinning tank and leaks. It's now vaping perfectly. Doesn't even leak on its side. I'm really loving this tank.
Also got 2 Kayfun monster bases to fix my 3.1s and a heat gun, so my battery is now wrapped and in use.
Its a nice sized box and has a rubbery coating. And its pretty light for a dual box.
Awesome on the rest.
The big reason contact coils became so popular is their increased efficiency; same heat, less power than spaced coils. This was driven by mech users to extend their battery life. With the advent of affordable regulated mods (capable of firing less than a 1.3Ω coil) and TC, people started spacing their coils again, mostly to avoid wicking issues, improve coil longevity and avoid TC issues. For instance, the current coil in my Erlk (barely spaced, twisted 30g KA1 @ 1.3Ω) is over 6 months old and the rayon wick is approximately 45 days old with over 150ml through it. I vape that setup at 13-18W. As Boden pointed out, airflow and the way we vape plays a large part as well.
Not as much as just using the wire laid flat.
Why it has hot glue on the solder joints is another issue altogether.
In the absence of shrink tube and a heat gun, and under the mistaken impression it needed to be insulated?
Ohhh, i'll have every tootle poofer in here wanting a Reo by months end.
I dare ya'll go head to the Reo website tonight, just 5 minutes, look at the new grands...
THINK about squonking a perfect-built RDA, never having to unscrew a cap or pop a driptip off...
ahhhh the Reo... so much better than regulated.
I dare ya'll go head to the Reo website tonight, just 5 minutes, look at the new grands...
THINK about squonking a perfect-built RDA, never having to unscrew a cap or pop a driptip off...
ahhhh the Reo... so much better than regulated.
My two favorite builds for RTAs are both spaced, 2.4mm∅, 7/8 wraps; one with twisted 30g the other with straight 28g. I much prefer the twisted 30g. While it has 50% more mass and gives up a bit in Heat Capacity and Flux, it more than doubles the surface area of the 28g. I simply have to give it a bit more power.
I don't think there's a right or wrong here. It's all about what we like. However, given specific goals, we should be able to determine better choices than others.
I don't use high ohms. With 7- 8 wraps I'm at 1.3 - 1.6 ohms, about 13. - 14.5 watts. My juices are great right there.
For parallels you might have to use a thicker wire to still be able to work with properly, while you can even use higher gauges when twisting.
you stated 'smallest wire you can use'
The functional diameter of twisted 30g is 0.381mm. (The average between the wrap at horizontal position 0.508mm and vertical 0.254mm). 28g is 0.321mm.
For parallels you might have to use a thicker wire to still be able to work with properly, while you can even use higher gauges when twisting.
you stated 'smallest wire you can use'
I do triple parallel coils with 32g
Isn't it amazing how long rayon lasts? I've had that same experience with my Erls. I seldom have to rewick them. They just seem to last forever. On the other hand, I've been using Labo cotton in my Orchids and have to rewick them every week. But since I have a 2 lifetime supply, I need to use some of it up.
Nice almost ordered one, thought I'd check ebay for the heck of it; Tugboat Box Mod Clone Kit W/ MOSFET Dual 18650 Tuglyfe zombie splatter + RDA with RDA & case for 27.99 shipped!
With no slow boat
The Below Paragraphs outline MY experiences w/building with thin Kanthal wire... I want to add this header-note, before you begin reading the rest of this article. Where-ever you see the number 30g, please know that that 30g is interchangeable with 32g wire. Yes, I did use 32g wire almost exclusively, jussst as-much as I had used 30g wire. Both 32 and 30g wire were my preferred gauge wire over the last 7 years of my vape-timeline. thank you 4 yer time...
I enjoy spaced 30g coils in most of my A7 atty builds. If I'm not doing spaced 30g then I'm obviously into the whole micro-coil thing, with a wire close in gauge to 30g kanthal... Usually it's going to be 30g or 26g if I've even got any. (I usually don't) Throughout my vaping lifetime/timeline I usually had 30g kanthal and I almost NEVER had a thicker wire. I depended solely on the kanthal wire that CAME with the various RDA RBAs and RBT RBAs that I've purchased over the years.
For instance, my AGA-T rebuildable Genesis Tank RBT/RBA came with 30g wire. I used that 30g wire on every damn build i did for that Aga-T deck until I had ran-out. I got more with other RDAs or RBTs and I used it up no problem. I purchased a larger ream of 30g Kanthal Wire from thehouseofvapor back when I was deep-deeep into DIY e-liquids and building my RBAs. I solely used 30 gauge spaced kanthal coils back then and I had no intentions of ever moving toward heavier gauge kanthal wire. No desire at all. I like using 30g because it takes LESS JUICE to achieve the same Throat-Hit/Good-Flavor/Cloud-Production as a thicker gauge wire uses to achieve those same traits and results. I <3 30g heehehe.
I just recently received several thick gauge reams from a friend of mine, & i am very excited to finally be TRYING a thicker gauge wire, for the very FIRST TIME in my entire vape-timeline!! SERIOUSLY! I've honestly built with thicker gauge wire LESS INSTANCES than I can count on two hands. I am MUCH more experienced in 30g thin wire, spaced coil builds, and 30g thin wire micro-coil builds. (via a coiling device, which i received as a gift for having come back to vaping, from my mother. this time around, she is MUCH more supportive of me, because she was down-right SICK of the smoke in her house) So, while in the past, my mother used-to REFUSE to buy me a bottle of juice, & she would go out & come-home with a big bag of tobacco and filter tubes for me, even-though I had specifically asked her to pick me up a 30ml bottle of BuckNaked 12 or 18mg in any flavor.... So in that way, she would sort-of force me into going back to smoking, all because she just did-not understand vaping & did-not trust it. I am happy to say that my momma finally understands that if she wants a smoke-free house, she's going to have-to support my decision to vape, rather - than smoke cigarettes... I am proud of her for finally doing some news-watching & coming to the conclusion that vaping is going to be much healthier for her son in the long-run.
Now, like I said, 30g is my safe-spot, & it makes me feel like I know what I'm doing. Now, the differences are abundant between a 30g and a 24g build. First, namely, the legs- The LEGS in a 30g build need to be "protected" or they WILL snap under heat-pressure. Yes, should you build a 30g coil, (and we're NOT talking-bout' these ridiculous two or three twisted-wire builds) a 30g coil- Every SINGLE time you do, you are at-risk of hot spots that WILL snap, because the wire is so thin. Now, if you are familiar with 30g builds, you would know that the weakest link - the weakest spot - in the entire coil, is actually the legs between the coil & the two posts. Now, with a 30g build you have two options with the legs... Option A: You can puuullllll the ends of that coil through those two posts as faaar and as haard and as tightly as you possibly can. This eliminates the legs all-together, for the most-part. It makes it so that the coil starts at the negative post and ends right at the positive post, which means NO coil segment is succeptable to receiving more heat without means of dissipating said heat... Option Number B: The wicking method. This method applies wicking to these hot spot legs. You simply tuck your wick UNDER your 30g coil's legs in-order to prevent the legs from becoming any more hot than the middle coil-section of the coil. The saturated wick acts as a heat-sync which keeps the coil's legs MOIST, which in-turn prevents the legs from snapping from heat. This is a fantastic method that I personally employ, in addition-to the no-legz coiling method.. I simply use BOTH of these methods as-often as I possibly can. Some RDAs and tanks are going to vary and you may-not be-able to do a coil "with no legs" in some. But I do my best to eliminate the legs all together whenever possible, with my 30g wire builds.
Now, I must say 1 more thing... WITH my 30g kanthal coil builds- I do my best (usually) to create a micro-coil. Whether or not that micro-coil attempt turns-out as a tight micro-coil, or whether or not it turns up as a SPACED micro-coil, well, that is usually dependent entirely of the circumstances and what winds-up happening as I'm building the coil. FOR EXAMPLE- If I build a coil that just-so-happens to be a bit tighter than I would normally make, and then I attempt to STRETCH that coil in-order to delete the legz, so-to-speak- it can space the coils. This is because a tight 30g coil that is stretched-out is GOING to space-out, unlike with a 24 or 26g build, where you can basically manipulate the thicker wire to NOT space-out/stretch.
so there you have it folks- have at it! I dare you to get out there, go find your 30g wire, dust it off, and employ the above techniques to build a FANTASTIC low-resistance 30g kanthal coil that's going to deliver awesome amounts of vapor, spectacular flavor, and which is NOT going-to use-up ALL of your juice, quite as quickly as saaay- A LR 24g Kanthal Coil.
please ENJOY the above 30g coil methods and please, enjoy the vape journey!!!
have a good night everyone- enjoy your dinner, your family, loved-ones, & sleep well.
I enjoy spaced 30g coils in most of my A7 atty builds. If I'm not doing spaced 30g then I'm obviously into the whole micro-coil thing, with a wire close in gauge to 30g kanthal... Usually it's going to be 30g or 26g if I've even got any. (I usually don't) Throughout my vaping lifetime/timeline I usually had 30g kanthal and I almost NEVER had a thicker wire. I depended solely on the kanthal wire that CAME with the various RDA RBAs and RBT RBAs that I've purchased over the years.
For instance, my AGA-T rebuildable Genesis Tank RBT/RBA came with 30g wire. I used that 30g wire on every damn build i did for that Aga-T deck until I had ran-out. I got more with other RDAs or RBTs and I used it up no problem. I purchased a larger ream of 30g Kanthal Wire from thehouseofvapor back when I was deep-deeep into DIY e-liquids and building my RBAs. I solely used 30 gauge spaced kanthal coils back then and I had no intentions of ever moving toward heavier gauge kanthal wire. No desire at all. I like using 30g because it takes LESS JUICE to achieve the same Throat-Hit/Good-Flavor/Cloud-Production as a thicker gauge wire uses to achieve those same traits and results.
I <3 30g heehehe.I just recently received several thick gauge reams from a friend of mine, & i am very excited to finally be TRYING a thicker gauge wire, for the very FIRST TIME in my entire vape-timeline!! SERIOUSLY! I've honestly built with thicker gauge wire LESS INSTANCES than I can count on two hands.
I am MUCH more experienced in 30g thin wire, spaced coil builds, and 30g thin wire micro-coil builds. (via a coiling device, which i received as a gift for having come back to vaping, from my mother. this time around, she is MUCH more supportive of me, because she was down-right SICK of the smoke in her house) So, while in the past, my mother used-to REFUSE to buy me a bottle of juice, & she would go out & come-home with a big bag of tobacco and filter tubes for me, even-though I had specifically asked her to pick me up a 30ml bottle of BuckNaked 12 or 18mg in any flavor.... So in that way, she would sort-of force me into going back to smoking, all because she just did-not understand vaping & did-not trust it. I am happy to say that my momma finally understands that if she wants a smoke-free house, she's going to have-to support my decision to vape, rather - than smoke cigarettes... I am proud of her for finally doing some news-watching & coming to the conclusion that vaping is going to be much healthier for her son in the long-run.Now, like I said, 30g is my safe-spot, & it makes me feel like I know what I'm doing. Now, the differences are abundant between a 30g and a 24g build. First, namely, the legs- The LEGS in a 30g build need to be "protected" or they WILL snap under heat-pressure. Yes, should you build a 30g coil, (and we're NOT talking-bout' these ridiculous two or three twisted-wire builds) a 30g coil- Every SINGLE time you do, you are at-risk of hot spots that WILL snap, because the wire is so thin. Now, if you are familiar with 30g builds, you would know that the weakest link - the weakest spot - in the entire coil, is actually the legs between the coil & the two posts. Now, with a 30g build you have two options with the legs... Option A: You can puuullllll the ends of that coil through those two posts as faaar and as haard and as tightly as you possibly can. This eliminates the legs all-together, for the most-part. It makes it so that the coil starts at the negative post and ends right at the positive post, which means NO coil segment is succeptable to receiving more heat without means of dissipating said heat... Option Number B: The wicking method. This method applies wicking to these hot spot legs. You simply tuck your wick UNDER your 30g coil's legs in-order to prevent the legs from becoming any more hot than the middle coil-section of the coil. The saturated wick acts as a heat-sync which keeps the coil's legs MOIST, which in-turn prevents the legs from snapping from heat. This is a fantastic method that I personally employ, in addition-to the no-legz coiling method.. I simply use BOTH of these methods as-often as I possibly can. Some RDAs and tanks are going to vary and you may-not be-able to do a coil "with no legs" in some. But I do my best to eliminate the legs all together whenever possible, with my 30g wire builds.
Now, I must say 1 more thing... WITH my 30g kanthal coil builds- I do my best (usually) to create a micro-coil. Whether or not that micro-coil attempt turns-out as a tight micro-coil, or whether or not it turns up as a SPACED micro-coil, well, that is usually dependent entirely of the circumstances and what winds-up happening as I'm building the coil. FOR EXAMPLE- If I build a coil that just-so-happens to be a bit tighter than I would normally make, and then I attempt to STRETCH that coil in-order to delete the legz, so-to-speak- it can space the coils. This is because a tight 30g coil that is stretched-out is GOING to space-out, unlike with a 24 or 26g build, where you can basically manipulate the thicker wire to NOT space-out/stretch.
so there you have it folks- have at it! I dare you to get out there, go find your 30g wire, dust it off, and employ the above techniques to build a FANTASTIC low-resistance 30g kanthal coil that's going to deliver awesome amounts of vapor, spectacular flavor, and which is NOT going-to use-up ALL of your juice, quite as quickly as saaay- A LR 24g Kanthal Coil.
please ENJOY the above 30g coil methods and please, enjoy the vape journey!!!
have a good night everyone- enjoy your dinner, your family, loved-ones, & sleep well.
The Below Paragraphs outline MY experiences w/building with thin Kanthal wire... I want to add this header-note, before you begin reading the rest of this article. Where-ever you see the number 30g, please know that that 30g is interchangeable with 32g wire. Yes, I did use 32g wire almost exclusively, jussst as-much as I had used 30g wire. Both 32 and 30g wire were my preferred gauge wire over the last 7 years of my vape-timeline. thank you 4 yer time...
I enjoy spaced 30g coils in most of my A7 atty builds. If I'm not doing spaced 30g then I'm obviously into the whole micro-coil thing, with a wire close in gauge to 30g kanthal... Usually it's going to be 30g or 26g if I've even got any. (I usually don't) Throughout my vaping lifetime/timeline I usually had 30g kanthal and I almost NEVER had a thicker wire. I depended solely on the kanthal wire that CAME with the various RDA RBAs and RBT RBAs that I've purchased over the years.
For instance, my AGA-T rebuildable Genesis Tank RBT/RBA came with 30g wire. I used that 30g wire on every damn build i did for that Aga-T deck until I had ran-out. I got more with other RDAs or RBTs and I used it up no problem. I purchased a larger ream of 30g Kanthal Wire from thehouseofvapor back when I was deep-deeep into DIY e-liquids and building my RBAs. I solely used 30 gauge spaced kanthal coils back then and I had no intentions of ever moving toward heavier gauge kanthal wire. No desire at all. I like using 30g because it takes LESS JUICE to achieve the same Throat-Hit/Good-Flavor/Cloud-Production as a thicker gauge wire uses to achieve those same traits and results.
I just recently received several thick gauge reams from a friend of mine, & i am very excited to finally be TRYING a thicker gauge wire, for the very FIRST TIME in my entire vape-timeline!! SERIOUSLY! I've honestly built with thicker gauge wire LESS INSTANCES than I can count on two hands.
Now, like I said, 30g is my safe-spot, & it makes me feel like I know what I'm doing. Now, the differences are abundant between a 30g and a 24g build. First, namely, the legs- The LEGS in a 30g build need to be "protected" or they WILL snap under heat-pressure. Yes, should you build a 30g coil, (and we're NOT talking-bout' these ridiculous two or three twisted-wire builds) a 30g coil- Every SINGLE time you do, you are at-risk of hot spots that WILL snap, because the wire is so thin. Now, if you are familiar with 30g builds, you would know that the weakest link - the weakest spot - in the entire coil, is actually the legs between the coil & the two posts. Now, with a 30g build you have two options with the legs... Option A: You can puuullllll the ends of that coil through those two posts as faaar and as haard and as tightly as you possibly can. This eliminates the legs all-together, for the most-part. It makes it so that the coil starts at the negative post and ends right at the positive post, which means NO coil segment is succeptable to receiving more heat without means of dissipating said heat... Option Number B: The wicking method. This method applies wicking to these hot spot legs. You simply tuck your wick UNDER your 30g coil's legs in-order to prevent the legs from becoming any more hot than the middle coil-section of the coil. The saturated wick acts as a heat-sync which keeps the coil's legs MOIST, which in-turn prevents the legs from snapping from heat. This is a fantastic method that I personally employ, in addition-to the no-legz coiling method.. I simply use BOTH of these methods as-often as I possibly can. Some RDAs and tanks are going to vary and you may-not be-able to do a coil "with no legs" in some. But I do my best to eliminate the legs all together whenever possible, with my 30g wire builds.
Now, I must say 1 more thing... WITH my 30g kanthal coil builds- I do my best (usually) to create a micro-coil. Whether or not that micro-coil attempt turns-out as a tight micro-coil, or whether or not it turns up as a SPACED micro-coil, well, that is usually dependent entirely of the circumstances and what winds-up happening as I'm building the coil. FOR EXAMPLE- If I build a coil that just-so-happens to be a bit tighter than I would normally make, and then I attempt to STRETCH that coil in-order to delete the legz, so-to-speak- it can space the coils. This is because a tight 30g coil that is stretched-out is GOING to space-out, unlike with a 24 or 26g build, where you can basically manipulate the thicker wire to NOT space-out/stretch.
so there you have it folks- have at it! I dare you to get out there, go find your 30g wire, dust it off, and employ the above techniques to build a FANTASTIC low-resistance 30g kanthal coil that's going to deliver awesome amounts of vapor, spectacular flavor, and which is NOT going-to use-up ALL of your juice, quite as quickly as saaay- A LR 24g Kanthal Coil.
please ENJOY the above 30g coil methods and please, enjoy the vape journey!!!
have a good night everyone- enjoy your dinner, your family, loved-ones, & sleep well.
Would sure like to know what RDA you were using in 2009?!?
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