Not sure how the dielectric grease helps as it is an insulator and not conductive. It will have an anti corrisive effect but really does nothing for the current flow.
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The perfect vape machine
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Not sure how the dielectric grease helps as it is an insulator and not conductive. It will have an anti corrisive effect but really does nothing for the current flow.
Dielectric - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
For it to be embraced as an option for the GGTS, there are the two safety features built into the GGTS that are negated. The vented bottom cap and the recommended fuse kit are neither one available in this configuration.
I have never had it happen but have seen the results after the fact of a thermal runaway. Without venting or some sort of a fuse, as rare as it happens, you could still be holding a pipe bomb!
Until safety precautions are implemented, I can't see Imeo recommending it as a modification. 
I have never had it happen but have seen the results after the fact of a thermal runaway. Without venting or some sort of a fuse, as rare as it happens, you could still be holding a pipe bomb!
Until safety precautions are implemented, I can't see Imeo recommending it as a modification. 
I might be wrong, but I think the Megalodon is actually vented THROUGH the bottom button. As for the fuse, if it was really that important then it would ship with them.
In the end, though, I'm just happy that this will work. The thing I love the most about my GGTS is it's modular nature, and having another configuration option is just swell. Imeo's got enough on his plate as it is, but it'd be cool if someone could just make a simple adapter that would allow it to be put onto the bottom of the main body... And now that I think of it it's already made. The rethreader would let you pull the bottom cap and the button and put the catch tank on it. You could then screw the telescope into the main body, and the Stealth cap on top of that... This is going to be hella fun!
In the end, though, I'm just happy that this will work. The thing I love the most about my GGTS is it's modular nature, and having another configuration option is just swell. Imeo's got enough on his plate as it is, but it'd be cool if someone could just make a simple adapter that would allow it to be put onto the bottom of the main body... And now that I think of it it's already made. The rethreader would let you pull the bottom cap and the button and put the catch tank on it. You could then screw the telescope into the main body, and the Stealth cap on top of that... This is going to be hella fun!
Bottom button was Trog's idea , you are right Rogers. I still was the first one that made a button button on GGSlim after Trog of course. But too many people were complaning about SD's front button so I put it in a very confortable place. This place is the most confortable to my opinion, more comfortable than all the other side buttons that are near atomizer.
I personally don't care for bottom buttons... Well the SD was OK as long as you never dropped it, and everything was in working order. I had several SS bottom button rigs. They were a PITA because of things like no locking, essentially having to use my pinky (weakest link), incidental firing when setting it on end or in my pocket, PITA to clean and keep firing correctly... (I have no xperience with the Don button). Personally, I like my GG buttons on my two GGTS's. Sometimes it is a little finicky, but a soak in alcohol and a cleaning of the contact and center post usually bring things right back to peak working order. As far as using noalax or anything else on the switch/button, my experience has not been positive. It made my switches "sticky" and finicky. I can tell when it's just right though, as I don't even have to press hard and instant sizzle. The ONLY thing I don't like about my GG button, it makes my GGTS not compatible with a certain e-cig case I have. No worries though, as I came up with another solution.
Now, on the other hand, for those that do prefer a bottom button, this is an interesting idea. I think it should be embraced as an option on a GGTS and a detailed explanation given. Or Imeo could even make an optional bottom button for GGTS? However, that is not a GG original idea, so to speak... and maybe not a really good idea.
EDIT: OK I am watching the video to see how this is done now...
Giulio, first of all I would prefere a video instead of pictures. I always do videos to show my stuff so noone can have doupts for what I do. As for the voltage, please ask our Italian friend something very simple. Why does he thinks that this happens (if it happens under the right conditions). He will not find a reason because there is no reason. What had happened was a dirty contact on GGTS or a button spring that was srinked by a short.
Lets see some facts first before we deside:
1. The harder the push, the better the connection (You can press much harder the GGTS button so it has better contact for sure)
2. Are materials the same? GGTS is steel. Were the other mods made from steel too?
3. Was the button in perfect contition on all of the mods including GGTS?
4. The battery spring and the button spring were made from the same material on all mods? If you remember I was the first one on ecf that used brass springs but then I desided to use steel ones to be more robust. So it would be better to take off the spring from the GGTS before doing any experiments, or put a brass spring on it.
The place of the button is totally irelevant with current and voltage. There is no reason for someone to think that button has to do something with it. If you want to see what is happening, tell to our Italian friend to test the GGSlim that has a front button. He will not find any difference. And if he finds any difference comparing to other mods it will be the springs and only the springs Giulio.
Lets see some facts first before we deside:
1. The harder the push, the better the connection (You can press much harder the GGTS button so it has better contact for sure)
2. Are materials the same? GGTS is steel. Were the other mods made from steel too?
3. Was the button in perfect contition on all of the mods including GGTS?
4. The battery spring and the button spring were made from the same material on all mods? If you remember I was the first one on ecf that used brass springs but then I desided to use steel ones to be more robust. So it would be better to take off the spring from the GGTS before doing any experiments, or put a brass spring on it.
The place of the button is totally irelevant with current and voltage. There is no reason for someone to think that button has to do something with it. If you want to see what is happening, tell to our Italian friend to test the GGSlim that has a front button. He will not find any difference. And if he finds any difference comparing to other mods it will be the springs and only the springs Giulio.
Imeo, i am not able to make these measurements, I rely only on my sensations and my brief experience.
All were measured with the same load (resistance 1.5 ohms), the battery used is the same just reloaded 18650 ICR, between a measure and the other was not changed any parameters in the instrument, before starting the measurements I clean the contacts and pins with steel wool ...
All were measured with the same load (resistance 1.5 ohms), the battery used is the same just reloaded 18650 ICR, between a measure and the other was not changed any parameters in the instrument, before starting the measurements I clean the contacts and pins with steel wool ...
steel wool destroyed the shine of the GGTS contacts Giulio. GGTS contacts are shined and nickel plated for the best contactivity. Anyway, the parameters are many and you have to make them in a proper environment. But be sure that bottom button not only has nothing to do with it but also its not as efficient as the side GGTS button.
nickel is on the top ten list of contactive metals Giulio. Please check this:
http://www.tibtech.com/conductivity.php
Sanding the newer GGTS buttons or the axis that button touch is the worse you can do. Autosol is the solution. Nickel doesnt easily suffer from arcs that current does on metals when the come in contact (arc in Greek we mean the black marks you see on contacts). Use autosol and all will be fine. The GGTS will fire like never before
http://www.tibtech.com/conductivity.php
Sanding the newer GGTS buttons or the axis that button touch is the worse you can do. Autosol is the solution. Nickel doesnt easily suffer from arcs that current does on metals when the come in contact (arc in Greek we mean the black marks you see on contacts). Use autosol and all will be fine. The GGTS will fire like never before
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I really think that it is a material difference. SS is not as conductive as aluminum. My GF has a TMF aluminum GGTS and I have a first run SSGGTS, using her batts and AVS on my SSGGTS does not quite hit as hard as her ALGGTS. I still wouldn't trade though.
I would also suggest to your friend to remove the negative terminal spring. The spring is designed to collapse in case of a short, so there is a bit of resistance there.
I would also suggest to your friend to remove the negative terminal spring. The spring is designed to collapse in case of a short, so there is a bit of resistance there.
All I know is I really like the button on my #700 aluminum GGTS. It has the magnet upgrade and when it is clean, well it is like butter. Fires perfectly and effortlessly. The only time I have an issue is when my AVS is being used. Something about the AVS and if I snug the tube at all, it won't fire ... Probably to much pressure on the current 901.
My button on the SSGGTS #026 works great. It is "different" in that it has a different tension on it and shorter throw then the brass one on #700, but when it is clean (I put some vaseline inside for the spring) it also works like butter. Just a shorter throw. Never even thought of using steel wool on a GG contacts. I clean the contacts with a little semichrome when I clean my GGTS.
Regardless, I am happy!!! I think it is interesting that there is a way to use a bottom button on a GGTS... and think it was worht sharing, but I have no desire to do so myself. I'll be happier if I can manage to snag a Stealth.
Also, I think my aluminum and SS both hit about the same. I sat here this morning after cleaning both PVs and switches and compared them side by side with 901s, same batt types fresh off the charger, and same juice. Neither was discernible as hitting harder then the other. The only difference I could tell was the throw and tension on the switches. Even switched the switches around to see if I could tell a diff. Nope. Course I didn't break out a meter etc...
My button on the SSGGTS #026 works great. It is "different" in that it has a different tension on it and shorter throw then the brass one on #700, but when it is clean (I put some vaseline inside for the spring) it also works like butter. Just a shorter throw. Never even thought of using steel wool on a GG contacts. I clean the contacts with a little semichrome when I clean my GGTS.
Regardless, I am happy!!! I think it is interesting that there is a way to use a bottom button on a GGTS... and think it was worht sharing, but I have no desire to do so myself. I'll be happier if I can manage to snag a Stealth.
Also, I think my aluminum and SS both hit about the same. I sat here this morning after cleaning both PVs and switches and compared them side by side with 901s, same batt types fresh off the charger, and same juice. Neither was discernible as hitting harder then the other. The only difference I could tell was the throw and tension on the switches. Even switched the switches around to see if I could tell a diff. Nope. Course I didn't break out a meter etc...
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They seem the same to me, maybe the aluminum ones hit better but I like the old style buttons more to be honest.
And I hated hated hated bottom button mods!!!
Never had one one that wasn't a hot pocket waiting to happen!!! 8-o NO one remembers to lock every time!!!! 
And I hated hated hated bottom button mods!!!
Never had one one that wasn't a hot pocket waiting to happen!!! 8-o NO one remembers to lock every time!!!! 
Well my SS GGTS hits less hard than any other PV I own. Yes I've cleaned it enhanced all the contacts and removed the spring all of these improved it but it is still in last place.
If the VV unit works well then we can have whatever power we need and this shouldn't be a problem.
Like many people my GG just sits there waiting for it's VV upgrade while I vape on another VV mod.
If the VV unit works well then we can have whatever power we need and this shouldn't be a problem.
Like many people my GG just sits there waiting for it's VV upgrade while I vape on another VV mod.
Ah, the Master speaks. I use the autosol like Imeo says. I will also say - IMO - I HATE bottom buttons. Yes, I have a mod w/one. It can be an issue for people w/arthritis, etc. The GG side button is so much nicer. Far as hit, of all my mods then and now, the GGTS hits the hardest. When it doesn't it's ALWAYS the spring or contacts. When I really want it to hit like a hammer, I put silver CONDUCTIVE grease on the top of fuse and button contact. If it's not the spring or contact points, sometimes putting too much vaseline all over the threads can be the issue.
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Del, clean the contacts and threads. GGTS hits as hard as all the other steel mods maybe harder because of its fat surfaces. You didnt do a proper cleaning for sure.
+1
The only time I ever have voltage loss is when I get lazy and don't clean the noalox from my contact surfaces and switch. A quick cleanup with rubbing alcohol and re-application of noalox and everything works perfectly again. It works fine without the noalox, but stays at top performance longer with it than without
Well here's what I did:
Dismantled the whole GG including the button
Cleaned in hot soapy water using a tooth brush on all the treads
Cleaned in an ultrasonic bath for 12 mins
All came out super shiny and clean.
Bought some of the silver conductive grease that dspin talks about - had it shipped in from the US
Applied it to all the theads and contacts except the collection tank.
Hit's much better than it did before but not as good as every other mod I own.
I used new ( well about 3weeks old ) AW IMR 18650 batteries charged on a pila charger with 1.5ohm 306s ( not sure this has anything to do with it but I might has well let you know all the details of my set up )
I'm not saying that I'm getting no vapour from it or anything it just doesn't hit as hard.
I just want the VV to come out then it shouldn't matter if I'm losing two tenths of a volt or something.
Dismantled the whole GG including the button
Cleaned in hot soapy water using a tooth brush on all the treads
Cleaned in an ultrasonic bath for 12 mins
All came out super shiny and clean.
Bought some of the silver conductive grease that dspin talks about - had it shipped in from the US
Applied it to all the theads and contacts except the collection tank.
Hit's much better than it did before but not as good as every other mod I own.
I used new ( well about 3weeks old ) AW IMR 18650 batteries charged on a pila charger with 1.5ohm 306s ( not sure this has anything to do with it but I might has well let you know all the details of my set up )
I'm not saying that I'm getting no vapour from it or anything it just doesn't hit as hard.
I just want the VV to come out then it shouldn't matter if I'm losing two tenths of a volt or something.
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