The perfect vape machine

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imeothanasis

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Dell, maybe its your imagination. If you dont use a multimeter you cant say as fright said. But anyway, do an experiment. Take off the spring from the cap and take off the button too. Try to vape using a metal piece like a screwdriver inside the button's hole. The screwdriver has to touch the body and the axis inside GG where the button touch. Tell me your findings
 

Major

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Indeed a mulri-meter check will tell the story. Like thedudeabides took photos of, I did the same thing today. I get no measurable loss at the connector - none. There has to be some improperly cleaned connections if a GGTS isn't hitting properly.

I realize that doesn't sound very technical but sometimes, simplicity is your friend. :) If you are getting the same voltage at the atty connection out of the GGTS as you are from the battery when checked, how else could you have a problem in what is fed to the atty? I mean no disrespect to any of my GG friends but facts are facts.

Using the same batteries and the same equally cleaned connections, the distance the current has to travel is so small for the speed of the travel of the voltage, it simply isn't possible for a normal human to detect a difference. What is possible is for someone to be told over and over again that one thing is better than the other and the mind makes it so.

It's almost like the Noalox debate. Some swear there is a noticeable difference both with and without it but the science of factual measurements again don't mislead you. Sure, take an oxidized contact in the circuit and the measurements would be off on a scope. But everything being properly cleaned and maintained and it is the mind telling you more than the facts I think. :)
 
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dspin

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Aye yi yi, take that conductive grease off the threads. Thats dangerous. I posted only on button contact and top of fuse post. Shouldn't put any on past top of fuse post. This is what I bought courtesy of Col. Gaunt.

There is something definately wrong if your GGTS doesn't hit better than the rest of your mods. If you had used the silver grease I have and put it everywhere, it would have overheated in 5 seconds. The entire GG would have gotten hot. I know, I did that once.

Soldering Accessories - ZORO tools



Well here's what I did:

Dismantled the whole GG including the button
Cleaned in hot soapy water using a tooth brush on all the treads
Cleaned in an ultrasonic bath for 12 mins

All came out super shiny and clean.

Bought some of the silver conductive grease that dspin talks about - had it shipped in from the US
Applied it to all the theads and contacts except the collection tank.

Hit's much better than it did before but not as good as every other mod I own.

I used new ( well about 3weeks old ) AW IMR 18650 batteries charged on a pila charger with 1.5ohm 306s ( not sure this has anything to do with it but I might has well let you know all the details of my set up )

I'm not saying that I'm getting no vapour from it or anything it just doesn't hit as hard.

I just want the VV to come out then it shouldn't matter if I'm losing two tenths of a volt or something.
 
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CarolCrocbag

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After reading the gold GGTS thread, I started wondering whether types of metal used, or platings, would affect voltage output of the GGTS. Also after seeing this video I believed Aluminium was slightly better. Until I checked My Don, v's SS GGTS.

I originally posted this in the Gold GGTS thread a few weeks ago.

"Well just done my own testing with my Megalodon (Aluminium of course.) and SS GGTS.
With a 18350 which was at the time putting out 3.80v, the Don hit at 3.78 and the SS GG put out a hard to believe, though truly amazing 3.81. :lol::lol::lol:
Seems the GG is miraculous after all. A difference of 0.03 the opposite to what I was expecting, according to the vid and actually adding power out of the blue. :):):)
Count me a very happy bunny."
 

imeothanasis

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Carol, I remember your post and that can happen because of the large GGTS surfaces and because they are shined. Its connections are so fat and shined that current doesnt find any resistance even if its made from steel. Also the battery spring is pushed hard from the telescope so it makes the best connection from any other cig.
 

inquisitorj

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I have noticed that I get a better hit if I have the telescope tightened down.

To be honest, I don't care if I am loosing a tenth of a volt or two. I LOVE MY SSGGTS!! It is the mod I go to every day for vaping bliss. I have many mods, but if I could only have 1, I would choose my GG without a second thought.

You can pry my GG from my cold dead hands!
 

Vaporologist

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My SSGG started dropping in performance after only a few days of getting it back. I gave it a soap bath, scrubbed all the threads and coated them with vaseline, and removed the bottom post spring. All this helped out but my GG was still not hitting as hard as some of my other mechanical PVs. Dspin suggested that I take the button apart and run the button spring across some 1000 grit sand paper to ensure maximum conductivity. That's what did the trick! Now it's just hitting perfect every single time...
 

wfarrar33

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My SSGG started dropping in performance after only a few days of getting it back. I gave it a soap bath, scrubbed all the threads and coated them with vaseline, and removed the bottom post spring. All this helped out but my GG was still not hitting as hard as some of my other mechanical PVs. Dspin suggested that I take the button apart and run the button spring across some 1000 grit sand paper to ensure maximum conductivity. That's what did the trick! Now it's just hitting perfect every single time...

you mean remove the spring and leave it out? just let the battery sit on the post?
 

atavanhalen

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Can't get my button assembly apart even with rubber gloves and pliers. Any suggestions?

If its the new style low profile that has the hex heads, you can use sockets from a socket set I believe the contact post is a 5mm socket and the button portion is 10mm socket. I am pretty sure those are the correct sizes, put them both on and twist them the opposite way and they should come apart.
 

imeothanasis

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Do the same with the battery spring and put it back on Vapor, so you will still have the protection we need:)
Yea, it hits much harder that way imo and as suggested by others. But you loose any and all protection. My fuse kit just came in and I'll see how it hits with it installed...
 

Vaporologist

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Do the same with the battery spring and put it back on Vapor, so you will still have the protection we need:)

Thank you, Imeo.

All is good now with the Fuse Kit installed. Best of both worlds regarding feel for the battery and performance. I suggest it's a must for every GG owner.
 

Vaporologist

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When the fuse kit first came out, I felt that I lost some voltage when it was installed but from what I am hearing, the newer version works much better in that regard, curious to know what vapor thinks.

I messed around with it last night and I don't notice any difference in performance when using the Fuse Kit with two springs installed vs. using the post only without the Fuse Kit or the battery spring installed. It hits hard! But I have noticed a drop in performance with the Fuse Kit installed if it's assembled with only one spring inside of it instead of two. And as previously suggested, you get a much better feel for when to stop tightening the telescopic tube vs. when using the battery spring. So, imo, the Fuse Kit with two springs installed is definitely the way to go regarding performance and safety.
 
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