The REACTOR Atomizer Tank!!!
- Thread starter Drewsworld
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Well now that Ive had it for a while I am less in love than before. Mine seems to leak like many others have stated. Its not a lot but when I unscrew it off the Provari there is always some liquid on the underside of the tank and the top of the Provari. It doesnt fill the well or anything but just wets everything. Ive never removed or changed out the atty.
Also, Ive used thick and thin liquids through it. Ive found thicker ones to actually work a little better. The problem for me is the atty gets to dry. I know you say a couple quick sucks wets it up but on mine it works sometimes and other times all the sucking in the world, even after a quick blow lol, doesnt seem to fix it. Other times it does. It is just a bit too inconsistent for my tastes at this time.
Im not trying to be negative, Im just sharing my thoughts to help other users of the device and perhaps even the creators get this device a little further along. Or perhaps it just is what it is.
Also, Ive used thick and thin liquids through it. Ive found thicker ones to actually work a little better. The problem for me is the atty gets to dry. I know you say a couple quick sucks wets it up but on mine it works sometimes and other times all the sucking in the world, even after a quick blow lol, doesnt seem to fix it. Other times it does. It is just a bit too inconsistent for my tastes at this time.
Im not trying to be negative, Im just sharing my thoughts to help other users of the device and perhaps even the creators get this device a little further along. Or perhaps it just is what it is.
Still waiting on a reply back to the email I sent Friday night at your request Drew. I have washed the reactor tank out and it's ready to ship back to you...I just need whatever info you were going to send that you mention above. Thanks.
Drew's out of town and probably flying home as we speak, so I'm sure he'll catch up to you tomorrow at the latest, kash.
I sent a return emailwith the adddress...Thats all I wanted to make sure you had it...Check your spam ....Thanks...FLIGHT delay....Tenn to Newark...Now 7somethin...UGH
i just copied and pasted and resent the email again...Hopefully that will go through...
Cusyguy or Drew
what different options will we have with the new atties, just different ohms? or 510 or 901. Im basically a 6 v guy and just do LR now and then so cant wait for higher ohms. Thanks
what different options will we have with the new atties, just different ohms? or 510 or 901. Im basically a 6 v guy and just do LR now and then so cant wait for higher ohms. Thanks
I have had some minor issues with leaking also so you are not alone. I think there needs to be made some sort of relief valve/hole in the top cap for when filling. It seems too much pressure is built up when replacing the top cap after filling and juice is forced out around the bottom cap o-ring. I have had inside o-ring on the bottom cap replaced on mine and it worked well for a bit but then again the same type of leaking happened after a couple of fills.
With this tank and the placement of the drill hole in the atty we all are trying to get the most juice in so we don't have to fill so often which leaves no room for the pressurized juice to go except out the bottom. A silicon plug or some type of screw hole might just help solve the pressure probs with this tank.
example
my
I have had some minor issues with leaking also so you are not alone. I think there needs to be made some sort of relief valve/hole in the top cap for when filling. It seems too much pressure is built up when replacing the top cap after filling and juice is forced out around the bottom cap o-ring. I have had inside o-ring on the bottom cap replaced on mine and it worked well for a bit but then again the same type of leaking happened after a couple of fills.
With this tank and the placement of the drill hole in the atty we all are trying to get the most juice in so we don't have to fill so often which leaves no room for the pressurized juice to go except out the bottom. A silicon plug or some type of screw hole might just help solve the pressure probs with this tank.
example
View attachment 111820
my
I think that's about as honest and accurate as it gets. dirquist has also given us a very fair assessment of his use.
So with that said, we all know that the new attys are coming shortly for the Reactor. They promise immense improvement, along with some much needed choices in resistance. But....there's always a but!......The Reactor V1 DC 1.5 tube is shorter than the tube for the new atty. So when the new attys are sold, they will come packaged with a new tube. The new Atty/Tube package and also all the v2 Reactors will come with exactly what you bring up...a pressure relief/fill port with a T316 Cap Screw in the tube. The Reactor Cap creates an airtight seal and when you fill the tank with fluid and leave no air space in the tank, the cap creates a syringe effect as you push it on. The juice has to go somewhere. So it goes in the atty punch hole or forces itself out the bottom cap around the o-rings. So leaving it half full, is much more likely to not have that issue. With the fill port/relief valve, you can open the screw halfway and then remove and replace the top cap for filling. Or you can fill directly from the port by syringe or syringe tip bottle. Either way, it will stop any leaking and allow 100% fills. The screw is quite small and doesn't look bad at all in person.
Last edited:
Hmm... lol. Just sitting here trying to figure out what to say. That is very nice of you to send the tube along with the new atty's for us early adopters. I am a bit disappointed that my almost new red one wont fit anymore. But with the free new tube I cant complain, it just causes some difficulty in choosing if I want the same color or a new color 
So that leads me to a few questions.
1. Will the tubes be the same as the cartomator tubes? That would be great, I could use one of my colored cartomator tubes to add variety
2. About the new atty. I thought they were just in different resistances, but now it sounds like they are just different all together. So does that mean the new one will also come in a similar resistance as the old one plus the higher resistances. For using on my 3.7v mechanical apv's I like the resistance of the current addy quite a bit.
3. Is it a design necessity to have the hole punched near the middle instead of the bottom like a carto? I know the new tubes will be longer so obviously we can hold more juice making this less important but.... hmm. I guess Id rather the hole near the bottom to sooth my OCD.
4. For my taste I like the atty to run a bit "wetter" than the current one seems to. Im not sure how others feel about that honestly. Im just afraid when I put my mouth to it and prepare to hit the button that Im gonna get a burney dry hit. Is this a goal to fix in the V1.5/2.0 or am I on an island here. Perhaps it is just my particular atty that is causing this and others dont have that issue. I almost feel like the hole is too small on it. I blow to clear it and suck to load it but sometimes I still dont get any juice in there.
As far as my comments on the Reactor I hope everyone understands that these are just my personal feelings that relate to my personal tastes. I know I can be kinda different than most on what I like but Im sure there is at least one other wacko like me out there that has similar preferences. Oh, and Im using my Reactor tank happily right at this moment
Thanks to everyone for helping me here
So that leads me to a few questions.1. Will the tubes be the same as the cartomator tubes? That would be great, I could use one of my colored cartomator tubes to add variety
2. About the new atty. I thought they were just in different resistances, but now it sounds like they are just different all together. So does that mean the new one will also come in a similar resistance as the old one plus the higher resistances. For using on my 3.7v mechanical apv's I like the resistance of the current addy quite a bit.
3. Is it a design necessity to have the hole punched near the middle instead of the bottom like a carto? I know the new tubes will be longer so obviously we can hold more juice making this less important but.... hmm. I guess Id rather the hole near the bottom to sooth my OCD.
4. For my taste I like the atty to run a bit "wetter" than the current one seems to. Im not sure how others feel about that honestly. Im just afraid when I put my mouth to it and prepare to hit the button that Im gonna get a burney dry hit. Is this a goal to fix in the V1.5/2.0 or am I on an island here. Perhaps it is just my particular atty that is causing this and others dont have that issue. I almost feel like the hole is too small on it. I blow to clear it and suck to load it but sometimes I still dont get any juice in there.
As far as my comments on the Reactor I hope everyone understands that these are just my personal feelings that relate to my personal tastes. I know I can be kinda different than most on what I like but Im sure there is at least one other wacko like me out there that has similar preferences. Oh, and Im using my Reactor tank happily right at this moment
Thanks to everyone for helping me here
First thing I do with any tank is add a fill port. I use a set screw so that everything stays flush.
You're not asking me but I can help with a couple ?'s.Hmm... lol. Just sitting here trying to figure out what to say. That is very nice of you to send the tube along with the new atty's for us early adopters. I am a bit disappointed that my almost new red one wont fit anymore. But with the free new tube I cant complain, it just causes some difficulty in choosing if I want the same color or a new color
1. Will the tubes be the same as the cartomator tubes? That would be great, I could use one of my colored cartomator tubes to add variety
2. About the new atty. I thought they were just in different resistances, but now it sounds like they are just different all together. So does that mean the new one will also come in a similar resistance as the old one plus the higher resistances. For using on my 3.7v mechanical apv's I like the resistance of the current addy quite a bit. Dunno.
3. Is it a design necessity to have the hole punched near the middle instead of the bottom like a carto? I know the new tubes will be longer so obviously we can hold more juice making this less important but.... hmm. I guess Id rather the hole near the bottom to sooth my OCD. Yes, as was posted previously, it's a design necessity at least with the current atty.
4. For my taste I like the atty to run a bit "wetter" than the current one seems to. Im not sure how others feel about that honestly. Im just afraid when I put my mouth to it and prepare to hit the button that Im gonna get a burney dry hit. Is this a goal to fix in the V1.5/2.0 or am I on an island here. Perhaps it is just my particular atty that is causing this and others dont have that issue. I almost feel like the hole is too small on it. I blow to clear it and suck to load it but sometimes I still dont get any juice in there.
As far as my comments on the Reactor I hope everyone understands that these are just my personal feelings that relate to my personal tastes. I know I can be kinda different than most on what I like but Im sure there is at least one other wacko like me out there that has similar preferences. Oh, and Im using my Reactor tank happily right at this moment
Thanks to everyone for helping me here
First thing I do with any tank is add a fill port. I use a set screw so that everything stays flush.
I did that with my first tank and surprisingly it was not as difficult as people might think. I am not sure the proper way to do it but I drilled a slightly smaller hole than the diameter of the tap I was using and the drilled the tap into the hole, then screwed in the corresponding screw. I would assume there is a more precise way of doing things but it worked for me. I am glad to see that the V2 upgrade will be as easy as buying a new tune with fill hole/screw, for those that can not do it themselves.
Thanks for your input and taking the time to give good informed feedback here!!!Hmm... lol. Just sitting here trying to figure out what to say. That is very nice of you to send the tube along with the new atty's for us early adopters. I am a bit disappointed that my almost new red one wont fit anymore. But with the free new tube I cant complain, it just causes some difficulty in choosing if I want the same color or a new color
1. Will the tubes be the same as the cartomator tubes? That would be great, I could use one of my colored cartomator tubes to add variety
The tubes will not be the same as the cartomator... Nor will these attys work with other tanks
2. About the new atty. I thought they were just in different resistances, but now it sounds like they are just different all together. So does that mean the new one will also come in a similar resistance as the old one plus the higher resistances. For using on my 3.7v mechanical apv's I like the resistance of the current addy quite a bit.
The new attys are a different resitance and they are single coil in 1.5, 2.0 and 2.5 (for now) They are slightly longer to allow for the height of the whole as well as the lower ... (answer for below as well)
3. Is it a design necessity to have the hole punched near the middle instead of the bottom like a carto? I know the new tubes will be longer so obviously we can hold more juice making this less important but.... hmm. I guess Id rather the hole near the bottom to sooth my OCD.
4. For my taste I like the atty to run a bit "wetter" than the current one seems to. Im not sure how others feel about that honestly. Im just afraid when I put my mouth to it and prepare to hit the button that Im gonna get a burney dry hit. Is this a goal to fix in the V1.5/2.0 or am I on an island here. Perhaps it is just my particular atty that is causing this and others dont have that issue. I almost feel like the hole is too small on it. I blow to clear it and suck to load it but sometimes I still dont get any juice in there.
There is a thin line between WETTER and FLooded!!! LOL...Please understand that this is an option for this tank, not necessarily a fix or V2...I have sold over 100 of these with leaking issues totaling less than 8...4 Of those were O-Rings and 3, I dont know yet...I am actually starting to think it is a device/connector/center pin issue with a couple of atty's or devices...I had one returned this morning that I cannot get to leak...I have tried it on a ProVari/Opus/N-Vary (Lava) Tube/Xhaler...Not a DROP...SO im a little frustrated with this one!!!!
The pressure in the tank should be alleviated in the first hit or it you blow it out like in the video...It WILL leak if filled completely up with the Dual Coil atomizer if it isn't seated perfectly but that should be minimal. I have one person describing POURING out but I have not seen it and would assume its an exaggeration.
Either way the fill port will just make it easier to fill , but will not stop the problem of overfilling or gouged O-Rings that I have seen so far.
As far as my comments on the Reactor I hope everyone understands that these are just my personal feelings that relate to my personal tastes. I know I can be kinda different than most on what I like but Im sure there is at least one other wacko like me out there that has similar preferences. Oh, and Im using my Reactor tank happily right at this moment
Also I have had times where I pulled the Tank off the device and have found some liquid in the well on the Provari but that seems to be when Im blowing into the device more than usual, for WETTER hits/higher Volts
Thanks to everyone for helping me here
Drew
That's the right way, mate In order to get a solid thread engagement you want to drill a hole smaller than the tap, but big enough that the tap only has to cut the threads and not enlarge the hole. If you drill too small a hole, the tap has to cut the hole larger as well as cut the threads, so it goes in hard and can damage either the tap or the material you're tapping. If you drill the hole too large then the tap can't find purchase and won't cut much thread, meaning your screw won't have much to hold on to when you screw it in (in this application, that can mean leakage). For example, for a 4-40 screw you'd ideally use a #43 or #41 drill. Drill and tap size charts come in handy quite a bit if you do a lot of tapping, like this: Thread - Drill & Tap Chart
In order to get a solid thread engagement you want to drill a hole smaller than the tap, but big enough that the tap only has to cut the threads and not enlarge the hole. If you drill too small a hole, the tap has to cut the hole larger as well as cut the threads, so it goes in hard and can damage either the tap or the material you're tapping. If you drill the hole too large then the tap can't find purchase and won't cut much thread, meaning your screw won't have much to hold on to when you screw it in (in this application, that can mean leakage). For example, for a 4-40 screw you'd ideally use a #43 or #41 drill. Drill and tap size charts come in handy quite a bit if you do a lot of tapping, like this: Thread - Drill & Tap Chart- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked