Will do. Do you have the specs? If not, I'll attempt to hunt them down.
BigEgo's good thoughts on this, notwithstanding.
I've been meaning to get my hands on these coils to test.
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Will do. Do you have the specs? If not, I'll attempt to hunt them down.
BigEgo's good thoughts on this, notwithstanding.
I've been meaning to get my hands on these coils to test.
Here are the specs from the manufacturers page.Here is the link: ceramic coil of e-cigarette. Here is another link there are two different versions. This is the best information I could find. Here is the other link Vaporesso cCell Ceramic Replacement Coil
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Thanks, will dig further.
Their marketing team produced an entire landing page, complete with fancy illustrations, yet somehow managed to avoid mentioning the wire material (unless I missed it somewhere).
Sounds like this product is one that may need to be tested with temp probes.
I have an Amprobe thermometer, and a bunch of K-type probes, but am still working on my testing methodology. It's an elusive black art. Just when I think I can trust a result, something puts it in doubt.
Their marketing team produced an entire landing page, complete with fancy illustrations, yet somehow managed to avoid mentioning the wire material (unless I missed it somewhere).
Sounds like this product is one that may need to be tested with temp probes.
I have an Amprobe thermometer, and a bunch of K-type probes, but am still working on my testing methodology. It's an elusive black art. Just when I think I can trust a result, something puts it in doubt.
Yes I have used the Ni coils. You have to turn them up to at least 500F at the minimum to get anything out of them. 600F is better and more satisfying. I am not the only one reporting this -- there's numerous other people in the Vaporesso thread saying the same thing.
Thanks, will dig further.
Their marketing team produced an entire landing page, complete with fancy illustrations, yet somehow managed to avoid mentioning the wire material (unless I missed it somewhere).
Sounds like this product is one that may need to be tested with temp probes.
I have an Amprobe thermometer, and a bunch of K-type probes, but am still working on my testing methodology. It's an elusive black art. Just when I think I can trust a result, something puts it in doubt.
Yep. i have done the same thing. Getting an accurate reading is MUCH more difficult than Busardo and DJLSB make it look (and I question their results based on my experiences). Moving the probe even a hair can affect the reading.
Yes, I've come to the same skeptical conclusion.
My current approach is to make sure the coupler is touching tight against the inside of the middle-most wrap (where it heats first and greatest); inside, so that it gets some of the accumulated heat from neighboring wraps via radiation-heat.
My thinking is that the losses of heat via conduction (because it's not perfect), will sorta balance out against the fact the hottest wrap is measured (the heat gradient average is going to be lower for the whole coil).
This could be completely wrong-headed.
Simply putting the probe in the airspace in the center of the coil, as some testers appear to be doing, I feel is too much of a heat loss, but maybe the loss of heat by radiation (compared to conduction) is lessened by the heat accumulation of neighboring wraps; not sure yet.
Then there's the fact the Amprobe only measures about once or twice a second and its average logic is tricky and has to be reset often.
And then there's the whole base resistance and temp it was measured, challenge.
My Amprobe is dual probe capable and that's my next step in trying to lock down a methodology. I need another of set of helping hands clips, too.
Busy with work, not much free time, so it's gonna be a while before I have any results to share.
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That's what I do. The problem is the probe is made of metal and is electrically conductive, so you can't make metal to metal contact if you want it to be accurate. I've shorted out more than one coil by doing this. Sure I can use cotton, but I've found it makes the reading lower than it probably should be. What I need is a material that has high thermal conductivity but no electrical conductivity. I am pretty sure they make such a material for temp probes, but I've been too lazy to check into it.
The probe I have has a really small bead at the end that I can get touching against a spaced wrap without any shorting issues with adjacent wraps. It's tricky though.
Oh, cheers for reply. First time back on forum since last post. You seem to know your stuff, so maybe you can help with a related question.Hey, cheers. Temp protection hitting early is usually normal and just a sign of it working correctly. Especially for temps under 500F. It's (of course) not cutting power off completely, just regulating it. The smaller the build, the faster it might kick in (less mass to heat).
Even when vapor production is lower than expected, it can often just mean a person enjoys a hotter, more aggressive vape. The only way to align our wishy-washy notions of temperature expectations, with reality, is to use a calibrated build and to get to know it.
The RX200's SS316 setting is not an accurate TCR, it's a slightly more aggressive setting. A more accurate TCR is likely to feel underpowered.
On top of that inaccuracy, the RX200 isn't perfect in its TCR representation compared against published material lab reports. It's in the ballpark, but not precise.
So these values are just guidelines, as of this time of writing. Perhaps in the future there will be a way to calibrate a mod in a way that aligns its notion of TCR with the calibration.
If you're interested in accuracy, for science and curiosity's sake, you can do a water calibration test (setting TCR such that boiling off water reads 212F) and get in the ballpark of what the correct TCR is for a given wire (well, a particular mod's notion of "correct" TCR).
Otherwise, just pick a reasonable setting or TCR and dial it in with temp, would be my recommendation. If you get a system that works for you with the RX200's default SS316 setting, use it, and then you'll have three free TCR slots for other things.
Been using default ss mode on both rx and cuboid and setting it to where cotton doesn't start to dry out. Tbh its working great but one thing I have noticed is, the following; Put a new ss build in atty reading 0.22 set resistance and vaping about 540-550f. Then remove atty to use another. When I put original back on reads 0.23 so set it at that. To get similar vape am now at 390f. This seems a huge difference for 0.01ohms. Messed about with both devices and seems to be true for both of them. Any ideas is this normal? cheers Adam.
I'll take a shot at it. Since 316 has a very low TCR (.00092 iirc), a small change in resistance can cause a big change in results.
Cheers,
Steve
Cheers,
Steve
i just tried this.......the ni200 ccell's are rated at a base res of .2. my dna and if i recall correctly, yours does as well, reads it as .17 (or round about). i went into escribe and overrode the ohms to .20 and locked it in. now there is more headroom to play with, in terms of a temp setting.
Hey. Just ran the numbers:
.22 + .01 = .22 x (1 + .00092) x (t-20))
= 69 C / 156 F change in temp for a .01 change in resistance
So that definitely seems like what is going on.
This is what makes TC such a challenge.
For grins and giggles to see how other options fair: with a comparable wire material like SS430 and a higher ohm build, say, .45, you can reduce the problem a bit...
.45 + .01 = .45 x (1 + .00138) x (t-20))
= 36 C / 97 F change in temp for a .01 change in resistance
Well, I've gone this far down the rabbit hole, may as well see what a Ti build at .5 ohms would look like...
.5 + .01 = .5 x (1 + .00350) x (t-20))
= 26 C / 79 F change in temp for a .01 change in resistance
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Bought some SS317L wire. Both TCRs clamp the wattage down to 4-5w immediately upon firing. With the VTC Mini's SS316 profile it works perfectly.... *shrugs*
Hey, thanks for doing all the hard work for me. Shows how important it is to lock res on a cold coil, if 0.01 can make such a difference ☺
Looks like you were right. Jalcide ran some numbers for me and it seem a 0.01 difference in res can cause a 156f difference in temp.
It's giving me the same result. What input is giving you different results?
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