Even if it does go below 7 watts, it may still vape a little too warm for me. That is why I love the Eleaf 30 watt. I can vape on about 8.3 or 8.4 and it still produces a cool vape. The warmer the vape, the more irritating to my throat and lungs. I was actually able to locate a few of my "go to" devices online and stocked up.
The Vaping World is leaving me behind.
- Thread starter urchin58
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The worst part is that unless you're doing something complex with fancy coils... building is actually crazy simple on most RTAs.
All that's needed is:
- turn a wire around a pin
- insert the tips inside the posts/columns of the deck and snip the excess
- put in your wick
- figuring out the gauge and type of wire you prefer, (My suggestion: SS316L at 26 or 28 gauge is a great starting point) and how big the coil needs to be.
- learning how to place the coil, so that they are in the right place, balanced between the posts, and the inside walls of the bell, then ensuring that the spacing between the coils is even. I suggest spaced coils for the simple fact that done right and some practice, you'll manage to avoid hotspots without even trying. Just make sure the screws that holds the wire are tight without being too tight (as that would cut the wire).
- learning how much to use, thickness of your wick that you need to insert, how long to leave on the side so to place them properly in the RTA.
One thing would be if you go with a single or dual coil deck. The only real important detail is that in a dual, the two coils need to be as identical as possible. With a single, you need to have a decent deck that you can have lots of space for a decent size coil as SS does heat up fast, and if you go with TC, you need enough wire in there to register properly.
If you're worried about tools needed, all you need is: something the right size that you can twist the wire around, small pliers, clippers to cut the wire.
The last part I'll add is that you do need to know about ohms, but with a regulated mod, it's nothing to really worry about, just do coils that have enough wraps to give you around 0.4 and higher ohms, and you'll be absolutely fine.
All series regulated mods buck the power, and most multiple-battery regulated mods are series. Also, choppy pwm is incredibly rare to find today. DNA 200, 250 (and 75 and 60 I believe) go down to 1w. So do modern Joyetech/Wismec/Eleaf mods. Finding a regulated mod that can do low power really isn't difficult these days. In fact, four years ago when I started vaping it was more difficult to find mods that went that low.
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I haven't kept up on everything for awhile (still vaping provari and zmax's) but I first became aware of the issue with ipv2's. They would read lower power on the screen but when tested they were higher than they read. I don't remember all of the ones giving false readings. I think isticks also read lower than what they actually were. I became aware of buck with sig zmax because using 2x 18350's gave a much better vape than 1x 18650 did since the buck was more efficient than boost. It was a completely different vape (for the better). There's a number of discussions on that in the sig v3 and v5 thread. The ipv discussion and testing was on reddit. I've suspected a number of the higher powered chinese mods aren't using buck anymore, regardless of the screen readings. Obviously I'm not overly technical. I just like lower power and don't think all the ratings and claims are accurate in that range, however my style of vaping doesn't seem to be the "norm" anymore. I do feel left behind.
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The issue with the first iStick and IPVs was they wouldn't drop below the charge output of the battery. This was fine with some atomizers, but if you were trying to select a voltage below the battery (most users weren't) then it didn't work ideally.
So, if your battery was fresh (4.2v) and you wanted 8 watts with your 1.8ohm atomizer, you got 9.8w.
That sort of thing....
I was looking for about 12w with BVC mini Nautilus, so never noticed the issue.
This sound similar to the Sigelei 213 issues with the power output not being accurate.
Overall, it's not the end of the world and most adjust the power according to the vape itself and not the settings. From build to build, there's always a bit of difference in the resistance, so I just adjust the ohm reading, stick to the 40-50watts, and simply adjust the temp. And as the coil is used, or just the liquid I'm using, I have to adjust up or down. No big fuss about it.
That you use any mod at this point, you wouldn't even need to look at the settings if you wanted, all one needs to really do is to increase or decrease the output to where they have the vape experience that they enjoy.
Some just like to overthink things at times, so don't feel left behind, just be aware that like in anything, there's some that go much further than truly needed instead of just enjoying the little things in life.
If it weren't for FDA regs, I'd be happy with 2.5 provari's and 1.8 nauty coils. Trying to recreate that with updated equip has been frustrating.
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The wattage you use is really relative to the tank and coil you use though....
For some tanks, 12W is very high (as the coil is using extremely fine wire), others, 12W will barely heat the coil up (with coils that are with much thicker wire).
The biggest trade off with tanks with larger coils, is that the older tanks it was unbelievably easy to burn the coil instantly... with the newer ones, unless you really push way to high, you have a much larger grace range. (but still, you can still toast a coil so it's not foolproof, but temp. control is a middle ground).
I have icares. It does the job for a stealth vape, not adv. Also at 15w. It's not rebuildable, not replaceable battery. Most everything in that range is proprietary. The ijust looks like it would choke me. I really hate waving my arms to see the computer screen or the road in front of me.
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The 213 is my favorite mod in power mode. Whatever is messed up with it works for me.
I give a 'thumbs up'..
Well.. technically, any small mod with a replaceable battery would be part of what I understand that you'd like to find...
Have you looked at the Elitar (Joyetech)?.. the tank that it comes with doesn't appear to have an RTA for it, but as this is a "normal" mod, you can switch the tank for it. But this is as close to a tube mod that you might find , with all the modern options. (including replaceable 18650 battery)
As tank goes, there's many now that outdoes the Nautilus mini but still is in the same range of experience for MTL, including RTAs. The classic Lemo2 for example and I'm sure many could jump in and tell you all about the Kayfun tanks.
I started a thread looking for something in an RTA that would be similar to a nautilus and was directed to the kayfun mini v3. Ordered a clone from FT, really hoping it works for my husband who can't handle the wide open airflow of most of the tanks he's tried. At $12 it is a small price to pay to try to find the vape that will get my husband to completely give the smokes up. I would have tried a nautilus but I'm uncomfortable purchasing any atty at this point that takes factory coils, thanks FDA.
The things we do for our children
I set the custom logo on my Pico to say 1.21 GW
My local b&m still sells more evods, vision spinners, and protanks than they do high watt subohm setups, and you are definitely not in the minority! EBay still has a wide range of stuff too, just avoid the words "vape" or "vaporizer" in your search terms! On the opposite side of the spectrum, just to explain why I went to subohm, mouth to lung and low watt doesn't work for everyone either. I coughed my lungs up every time I vaped on my mtl lung setups, and never could quite get the hang of it. After a year or two with no success and still smoking, I gave vaping up. I came back to it two-3 years later having no idea subohm stuff had become the norm, bought a Kanger subvod just to see if it would work better for me, and ouila. Problem solved, I was finally getting a satisfactory vape, I could actually taste my liquids, and vape up a storm without a single cough or hack. I didn't realize the airflow on my AIO had gotten turned down to the tight, mtl draw part today and damn near choked my lungs up when I took a hit on it this morning lol. Thanks to subohm vaping though, I've finally been able to quit smoking. Not the same setup or style of vaping will work for everyone, but there's room for all of us and nobody is in the minority lol. Although I come close, I subohm but could care less about a bigger, better cloud lol.
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One thing I've seen when it come to "can't handle" certain tanks and such, is that many will try a tank that has a lot more capacity but they are using a higher nicotine level than they should... when you sub-ohm or even use a new tank that has a larger coil, more airflow or such, you have to split the nic level by half at times.
The VG/PG by themselves aren't that bad, but even 1mg of nic too high can seriously made a huge difference between being the amount needed, and choking on it.
Whatever works. That's why I hate to see development one sided. There's no doubt todays starter kits are better now than when I started however very few allow rebuilding or replaceable batteries. There's an intermediate that's missing.
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He's been difficult to dial in. He says he truly wants vaping to work but what we've tried thus far hasn't satisfied enough to keep him off the smokes, though I'm sure A LOT of it has to do with willpower. Always airflow turned way down, different resistances from about 0.75 to 1.8 and nic from 6-18 commercial and DIY and he still coughs a bit. We are both pretty hopeful that something with more restrictive airflow will be more to his satisfaction.
This must be a regional thing, and with the world's government at war with vaping, I gather that some areas/countries have trouble getting the new models.
Over here, the selection for mods with replaceable batteries and RTAs has never been so large. And even then, it's just the most "popular" ones, as if you order online, the selection easily triples.
As far as intermediate between a starter kit to an advanced one, I don't find there to be really that much a difference, most people can easily start with something beyond "starter" and simply dial it down, but yet still have the features should they need them at some point.
Regulated series mods have to buck in order to provide useable voltages. With 9.6-12.6 minimum voltage you'd be having very hot vapes, particularly with low resistance coils being so common. For example, the three-battery Wismec rx200 has a maximum voltage of 9, so it doesn't boost at all. That's the case with most high power mods today.
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