on Vapage hybrid BF 2.0 and poor ultrafilre brc 3000mah:
3,91v/3,46V
4,01v/3,66V
I'll check tomorrow for better batteries
as you like (I have at hand leads) to connect directly to the battery atty and then measure - this will give the final answer
The Vmod XL 18650 Bottom Feeding Mod from Vapage.com
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3,91v/3,46V
4,01v/3,66V
I'll check tomorrow for better batteries
as you like (I have at hand leads) to connect directly to the battery atty and then measure - this will give the final answer
I'm really hoping for Silo success too. I've so far not had any that were "bad" per say, but some were not as good as others. I haven't sold my REO yet, nor really gotten a LR Boge (my old favorite carto) to work, but I may have to give it another shot as I was getting ready to sell my REO (got a VMOD 2.0 to go along with my XL).
Your post got me to thinking! I took a new(unused) 2.2 ohm Vapage hybrid atty(gold bottom that comes w/ the Vmod XL) and checked it with a meter. It showed 2.3 ohm. Now I screwed this atty into the Vmod XL and checked the resistance with the battery removed. One probe on the fire button spring and the other on the bottom spring and got 2.4 ohm. If you subtract the ohms of the atty from the ohms of the body with the atty installed the difference is 0.1 ohm. This should give the total resistance of the Vmod body. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong testing the resistance of the body this way.........
I had checked the voltage drop between the battery and the atomizer using a professional Fluke voltmeter. This was on the old Vmod, but it's the same issue. If you e.g. put meter leads across the switch it should show full battery voltage then drop to zero when you press the switch. But i found as much as 0.300 volts sometimes. That's huge. This is due to the very simple construction. The spring metal just rests against the plunger. It's not a very good connection, not consistent. A good switch with fine contacts can't be dropped in the wash, unless you use very expensive mil-spec parts. And electronic switches like on the eGo are subject to failure. It's all about trade-offs.
If you use a contact cleaner/antioxidant 1) on the switch plunger barrel and coiled spring 2) on the plunger head that contacts the battery tip 3) on the bottom spring 4) a smidge on the atty positive contact, and on the battery terminals themselves, you will be @#$$@ amazed at the difference, amazed.
Plain alcohol helps some if you have nothing else. Gotta be careful not to put contact cleaners in contact with juice. I use one of several contact-improvers when i remember, and of course it makes a big difference. Just "working" the switch, twisting, and turning the battery against the bottom spring, helps remove some oxidation. It's all part of maintenance, like cleaning a firearm.
p.s. don't forget both sides of the magnet if you use one on the battery.
Here's a "logical diagram" of the XL, since we don't have a real one. There ARE two holes in the bottom well, but I'm not sure where the air inlet connects. But it explains a lot of the behavior we see, like how the Bottom Feeder atties use the (purple) slits, why an i06 (which can only get air from the connector side pinholes) can't breathe if the gaskets are in place and the barrel isn't narrow enough, etc. Please, if anyone has a mechanical drawing, or a better diagram, can you post it?
p.p.s. tried the next new Silo, that had a visibly offset coil, but not as bad as some. Soaked it overnight in juice. Fired it up to test on a ProVari. Tastes like burning batting. If I drown the center tube with juice I can get a couple good hits, and then it's right back to burning carto taste. The coil is in the batting, and it's not wicking. I understand these are hand-made, and not easy to build, but it could be that until Brian takes a few of the coil winders out back and whacks 'em, you know, traditional Mao style, the crew isn't going to take QA seriously. I don't care, I think the XL is fantastic, and I use other cartos, but ... New users shouldn't judge the Vmod by the Silos.
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i didnt have any new attys so i been using the silo that came with the kit and it is not very satisfing,so iam going to buy some new attys what is the best attys that work best with this bottomfeeder..thx
Imo cisco spec 1.5 ohm 510s do real good on the vmod if you want some thing advanced hh 357 are realy good but there is a small learning curve on these but worth the efort
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I've had an LR 1.8 Ohm i06 for weeks now, maybe a month, same atty, as good as the first day. You need to make a cylinder for a d/t though. Not hard; i took a black delrin i06 d/t and clipped the mouth piece off, putting a 510 d/t on the barrel.
whatever you use, I'd go with 1.7 to 1.8 Ohm unless you want a torch (1.5 Ohm).
Can't wait for the lil' 2.0 to get here and slap a good ol' IKV LR 901(1.8) on it
thanks guys i was thinking about the cisco 306 1.8 from avidvapor 1.5 would be to hot i think..okay off to order
Can't wait for the lil' 2.0 to get here and slap a good ol' IKV LR 901(1.8) on it
901s work realy good on the xl I got one on one of my xls now with drilled out adapter
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I never tried one until about a week ago I'm pretty impresed I'm digin it for sure
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They have the perfect airflow. Never had one issue with a 901
They have the perfect airflow. Never had one issue with a 901
Yea the hole in the side is right under the coil instead at the bottom like a 510 I'm geting better flavor out of the 901 I'm not sure if it has some thing to do with the air flow or not
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That's most definitely where better flavor come from, airflow is a key factor in flavor
wow guys, I am a 901 nut case ... haven't tried anything but the i06 yet and have a drawer full of 901's... mostly SR for my VV's but i know i have a stash of 901 LR's in there... yow... i have a stealth adapter along with the standards too; does it matter which adapter?
Either one will work uke(as long as it's not sealed)
But you do have to drill a hole on the 510 side of the adapter(in the same spot as 510 atty's have it) so juice will feed into the center tube and up the atty!!
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510 side; ?... the 510 has two holes right across from each other above the threads; do you mean drill another hole in the 901 adapter, across from the one that is there? (not that i could do that anyway...Either one will work uke(as long as it's not sealed)
no DIY'er here.
Hold on uke, in just a second510 side; ?... the 510 has two holes right across from each other above the threads; do you mean drill another hole in the 901 adapter, across from the one that is there? (not that i could do that anyway...
no DIY'er here.
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