I just discovered a method for the Kick not to spin! Put an o-ring on the body! Made it even better the o-ring is held by the slit on the side of the chasis!
As far as adjustment.. Don't cover the V-Mod while adjusting.
The Vmod XL 18650 Bottom Feeding Mod from Vapage.com
- Thread starter AlmightyGod
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I just discovered a method for the Kick not to spin! Put an o-ring on the body! Made it even better the o-ring is held by the slit on the side of the chasis!
As far as adjustment.. Don't cover the V-Mod while adjusting.
Here's the O-Ring installed.
And here's the O-Ring in action. as you can see the Kick stayed there without the battery.
And here's the O-Ring in action. as you can see the Kick stayed there without the battery.
SWEET! And like most great ideas, simplicity at it's best!
Thanks! I wanted a simple modification and still able to put it back to its original condition without damaging the device.
My sentiments and thoughts exactly! I would love to see Evolv (hint hint Brandon) come out with a side pot! With a small external dial/button/wheel/something to hold on to rather than a screwdriver adjustment.
Got a response from Mr. HH to some questions about the HH.357. My favorite atty for the XL. You can send a unit back to be rebuilt at no charge within 30 days if you get one that's sub-par, as my first one was.
There are some solids in juice flavoring (I think of Ethyl Maltol, Ethyl Vanillin, etc). Some caking of solids seems inevitable. That's the main limiting factor in the atty's life. The encrusted coil will choke and fail at some point. It's easy for it to last 4 weeks. It shouldn't be impossible to double that with cleanings. It could be that soaking very regularly in ethanol (PGA) can slow buildup and carbonizing on the coil. But I don't think it can eliminate it. Fact o' life? Anybody with more ideas?
Longer barrels are recommended, and/or a long drip tip. If you do classic squirshing, some splashing and spraying is inevitable. If you use the "feed at a slight angle" technique, some juice will seep past the coil. I tend to use a mix of the two methods. Either way, a long tip lets any extra spray dribble back down before it reaches your lips. A short one doesn't.
I was cleaning my .357s and temporarily had to go back to a (perfect) Uni Hybrid. I cannot express my surprise. What had seemed like a mellow but nice vape now seems vacant. The vapor is less than half that of the .357, and taste seems practically absent. That's how strong the .357s are, in comparison. And another familiar problem with other atties is that as soon as the battery is down a little, the vape totally degenerates; I can see why people are so hot for the Kick, while I continue to be amazed at the fact the .357 is still vaping strong by the time the battery is shutting off. In any case a 1.5 ohm HH.357 really does the job on the unKick'ed Vmod. With light tipping and squirshing I get the dream locomotive effect, you know where you can practically see the juice level drop as you continuously pull it into vapor so thick that you could almost grab it and pour it back into the bottle
At $22 for 4+ weeks, it's cheaper than cartos. The scary thing is that nothing else so far even comes close, and apparently Ciscos are no longer available? The IKV family (i06 and 510) are the only ones I've tried that are in the ball park even (very good but they are missing some of the .357's taste).
There are some solids in juice flavoring (I think of Ethyl Maltol, Ethyl Vanillin, etc). Some caking of solids seems inevitable. That's the main limiting factor in the atty's life. The encrusted coil will choke and fail at some point. It's easy for it to last 4 weeks. It shouldn't be impossible to double that with cleanings. It could be that soaking very regularly in ethanol (PGA) can slow buildup and carbonizing on the coil. But I don't think it can eliminate it. Fact o' life? Anybody with more ideas?
Longer barrels are recommended, and/or a long drip tip. If you do classic squirshing, some splashing and spraying is inevitable. If you use the "feed at a slight angle" technique, some juice will seep past the coil. I tend to use a mix of the two methods. Either way, a long tip lets any extra spray dribble back down before it reaches your lips. A short one doesn't.
I was cleaning my .357s and temporarily had to go back to a (perfect) Uni Hybrid. I cannot express my surprise. What had seemed like a mellow but nice vape now seems vacant. The vapor is less than half that of the .357, and taste seems practically absent. That's how strong the .357s are, in comparison. And another familiar problem with other atties is that as soon as the battery is down a little, the vape totally degenerates; I can see why people are so hot for the Kick, while I continue to be amazed at the fact the .357 is still vaping strong by the time the battery is shutting off. In any case a 1.5 ohm HH.357 really does the job on the unKick'ed Vmod. With light tipping and squirshing I get the dream locomotive effect, you know where you can practically see the juice level drop as you continuously pull it into vapor so thick that you could almost grab it and pour it back into the bottle
At $22 for 4+ weeks, it's cheaper than cartos. The scary thing is that nothing else so far even comes close, and apparently Ciscos are no longer available? The IKV family (i06 and 510) are the only ones I've tried that are in the ball park even (very good but they are missing some of the .357's taste).
Last edited:
FWIW, my Aero 1.5ohm 510 atomizer (also from Avid Vaper), spends more time on my VMod XL than my HH.357.
The Aero's only cost about $12 (IIRC). There is no long barrel option, so a long drip tip is definitely recommended.
I had not heard that the Cisco atomizers were no longer available... only that AvidVaper.com was down for maintenance.
I'll search the forum here to see what else I can learn about this.
@AZCraig I have not tried the Aero. If I understand correctly, any "Cisco spec" coil uses a lower resistance wire, so there are more turns, and closer together, than in a typical LR atomizer. I suspect that's the key in the primo aerosol it generates, and other atties with a similar coil (like the Aero?) can probably be just as good. Who knows about the wick etc. The HH.357's extra space under the cup is excellent for dripping, but isn't in reality necessary, or maybe even not favorable, for the VMod. I'll try any 510 atty built on such a coil. Where can I get any?
@Dragonbone ... because you deserve one.
(Although now that the AvidVaper.com site is back up at last, you have choices in other Cisco coil atties, that can perhaps be just as good, or even better, at half the price. And maybe I was just lucky, especially with that second HH.357 ? But I'm not the only one raving about the way the .357 pushes flavor up front ... )
@Dragonbone ... because you deserve one.
(Although now that the AvidVaper.com site is back up at last, you have choices in other Cisco coil atties, that can perhaps be just as good, or even better, at half the price. And maybe I was just lucky, especially with that second HH.357 ? But I'm not the only one raving about the way the .357 pushes flavor up front ... )
Last edited:
So, any more long term usage reports from the Kickers? How well it works with 1.5-2.8 ohm atties? Cartos? How long the battery lasts compared to the unregulated 18650? And compared to other VV regulators, like the ProVari? Everybody delighted?
I used my Kicked XL yesterday with a 2.0 hybrid @ 8watts and it last me pretty much my 8hrs shift. today I have a bauway 3.0 atty @ 9watts we'll see how long this will last. so far I'm liking this bauway 3.0 atty setup it produce so much vapor and good flavor.
yes you can but you will need to do a little modification to get it to work. there are a few methods of modifying the XL posted a few pages back.Good to hear that i can easily setup my XL with a kick! Nice!
AFAIK there are 3 US sellers, and all are currently sold out too!
The Kick is ONLY recommended with IMR (High Drain) batteries for safety reasons. Since it's a booster (it boosts UP the voltage, and not a regulator which just throttles the voltage) the battery needs to be able to handle the current/amerage demand. A non high drain battery can't do it, at LEAST not as well. Best case scenerio, it'd shorten the lifespan of the battery, worse case scenerio is well... much WORSE! I doubt ANYONE would recommend using a non high-drain battery, but IF you do, please be extra careful and pay close attention to it!
10 watt limit has been commented (complained about) in other threads. In a nutshell, yes (IMO) it is a little lower than ideal. IMO 12 watts would be MUCH better, but the 10 watt limit was done for a number of reasons and likely won't be increased (if at all) until version 2 (and I've got to imagine, but it's a pure guess on my part, that v2 is at LEAST months away).
While I don't yet have a Kick (as soon as they're back in stock I will order one!) everything I've read/heard/seen indicates that it truly is the groundbreak device that it's supposed to be, and at a price that is outstanding. (and when/if Brandon/Evolv incorporate 3-4 minor tweaks, it'll be even better!)
Good review as usual. But his complaint with the 1.5 DC cartos just highlights a broader subject. Just like voltage isn't everything, wattage isn't everything either. Many atties/cartos will be optimal around 9.5 watts, but others, because of mysterious internals factors, are optimal higher or lower, e.g. the clear Turbo eGo cartos are 3 ohm devices that amazingly seem to work very well on an eGo battery, and are optimal around 5 watts. A Kick set to 9.5 watts would feed it 5+ volts and blow the coil. At least in the XL, it's not that hard to get at the pot to adjust it, though it's facing the wrong way. It just goes to show, there will always be more stuff to buy, and wait by the mailbox for ;-)
Last edited:
You know what, I think I'm tired of chasing devices. I always seem to come back to my EGOS and KGOS with either a 1.7 or 2.0 single coil carto. As far as I'm concerned it mostly comes down to the juice, and I control that, my mixes, as a DIY'er.
MAYBE one day I'll spring for a Provari...
As an aside; Alot of people are now using these polycarbonate tank systems. Is this not the same kind of plastic material that leaches bisphenol-a (BPA) into into food and drink? Just a thought, and why I stick to stainless steel cartos.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
