The Vmod XL 18650 Bottom Feeding Mod from Vapage.com
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Wow, not only do we get to hang out with people who understand what it really means to be a vaper, but to also be in the company of such creative and brilliant minds. I'm truly honored. "Mastifful" work is right, uke!
Mike, perhaps Brian will be helpful? I don't know.
Mike, perhaps Brian will be helpful? I don't know.
Thanks all, but it really wasn't that hard but it did take me forever because my only power tool is a dremel and I'm not handy (I'm "pawy"?). Anyway, what I made is a top (with button) and bottom (with LED strip) and then multiple middle sections. Depending upon the battery I want to use, I just grab the corresponding middle section, blue one is for 18350, wood is for 18500 (or kick+18350). One of these days I might make an 18650 version but doubt it since I really don't need that battery run time and I like the small size.
While I do like my tanks better than filled cartos I would prefer some sort of feed system, and the VMod system is arguably the best. So that lead me to here but I just think the 18650 is too big for what i want, thus why I was inquiring about cutting one down to a shorter length.
Maybe if I can just get a chassis (the feed side would really be all I'd need since if need be I can make a button) from an XL or non-XL I can figure out how to build the rest around it.
Anyone ever asked about buying just a chassis? As a long shot, anyone got a broken chassis?
While I do like my tanks better than filled cartos I would prefer some sort of feed system, and the VMod system is arguably the best. So that lead me to here but I just think the 18650 is too big for what i want, thus why I was inquiring about cutting one down to a shorter length.
Maybe if I can just get a chassis (the feed side would really be all I'd need since if need be I can make a button) from an XL or non-XL I can figure out how to build the rest around it.
Anyone ever asked about buying just a chassis? As a long shot, anyone got a broken chassis?
Mike, pm me if your interested in a 1.0 chassis without a spring. Also have a feed chamber I took out of a 1.0.
Seems I will be spending more time with my genni.
Love the recessed tank btw!
Seems I will be spending more time with my genni.
Love the recessed tank btw!
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Nice designs. I used to have the little Vmod and it seemed right, and now I have the XL and it seems right. It's mostly what you're used to. I move around the house, spend time in my office, in the lab and in the studio. I keep the XL in a pocket when it's not in my hand. A battery or bottle that needs more attention is just another PITA. The XL fits well wherever I carry it. It's a little taller but slimmer than a pack of cigarettes, which always felt bulky. My ProVari seems twice the weight, and is always falling out when I lean over and threatens to really damage something. An eGo also slips out. If you're thinking of mod'ing the XL, get one and then decide. If you're dedicated to the project, and handy, I'm sure you can make a nice cut-down XL, but I would instead consider cannibalizing the feed head/nest (just cut it out of the plastic) and build a different body around that with a traditional switch, that would be a great way to build a good bottom feeder.
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I understand the "adjust to what you have" thought, but I want what I want! 
If I drill a hole in the bottom plate, it lessens the structural rigidity so i'm thinking I'll probably be better off just replacing the whole bottom plate. I have some aluminum sheets that would work (and even appear to be about the same thickness as the plastic) so I don't think that'll be a problem. Likely the hardest part (and most unknown to me at this point) is is the sleeve modifiable? If it was just a matter of cutting a sleeve shorter, than no problem. But, since the squeeze port is already in the sleeve, it poses some challenges (now if only there was a "blank" sleeve to start with....
). Aesthetically I'm sorta particular and don't want to end up with some frankenstein looking thing. Luckily the cosmetic alterations shouldn't be that hard to get something that looks acceptable.
As for the button, I actually like what I've seen of the button! It locks and other than a few issues with travel/play due to battery length differences, I hear works great! The mechanical button I made is recessed, which has a great feel and little chance of accidental firing, but it's not super user friendly when used with a variety of different batteries. I actually made different spring/pin assemblies so that not only can I change the button look/color (which is just a cap plate), but also can change the spring pressure and throw distance. For a commercial mod, it would (IMO) be unacceptable to have to use trial and error and swap out springs and pins because the battery length changed a mm. For my mod though, I wanted the button travel distance to be a consistent 1/8" with any battery I threw into it, thus I made more than one spring/pin. (now if all battery manufacturers would make their batteries the exact same length....)
I'll keep you posted with what I manage to come up with!
The goal: A smaller, variable-wattage VMod. Something with the performance of the stock VMod, with set it and forget it adjustable wattage, that is even more stealthily sized! (in the spirit of the season, think something even a leprechaun would love!)
If I drill a hole in the bottom plate, it lessens the structural rigidity so i'm thinking I'll probably be better off just replacing the whole bottom plate. I have some aluminum sheets that would work (and even appear to be about the same thickness as the plastic) so I don't think that'll be a problem. Likely the hardest part (and most unknown to me at this point) is is the sleeve modifiable? If it was just a matter of cutting a sleeve shorter, than no problem. But, since the squeeze port is already in the sleeve, it poses some challenges (now if only there was a "blank" sleeve to start with....
). Aesthetically I'm sorta particular and don't want to end up with some frankenstein looking thing. Luckily the cosmetic alterations shouldn't be that hard to get something that looks acceptable.As for the button, I actually like what I've seen of the button! It locks and other than a few issues with travel/play due to battery length differences, I hear works great! The mechanical button I made is recessed, which has a great feel and little chance of accidental firing, but it's not super user friendly when used with a variety of different batteries. I actually made different spring/pin assemblies so that not only can I change the button look/color (which is just a cap plate), but also can change the spring pressure and throw distance. For a commercial mod, it would (IMO) be unacceptable to have to use trial and error and swap out springs and pins because the battery length changed a mm. For my mod though, I wanted the button travel distance to be a consistent 1/8" with any battery I threw into it, thus I made more than one spring/pin. (now if all battery manufacturers would make their batteries the exact same length....
)I'll keep you posted with what I manage to come up with!
The goal: A smaller, variable-wattage VMod. Something with the performance of the stock VMod, with set it and forget it adjustable wattage, that is even more stealthily sized! (in the spirit of the season, think something even a leprechaun would love!)
Hey now, I feel bad because it looks like I killed this thread!!!!
Please people, go back to posting about how awesome the VMod is! Tell us how long does a full bottle last you? What's your favorite atty? Details people! You do have an audience, so get back to entertaining us!!!
Please people, go back to posting about how awesome the VMod is! Tell us how long does a full bottle last you? What's your favorite atty? Details people! You do have an audience, so get back to entertaining us!!!
Vmodxl----check
Kick--------check
18500's---check
sheet metal-check
soldering iron-check
Time to get to work
Kick--------check
18500's---check
sheet metal-check
soldering iron-check
Time to get to work
Super easy too. A pair of snips and a soldering iron. I tried a few other methods, and this one worked the best.
That looks great Cracker. Nice pictures.
Keep us informed! I may just buy my first sodering iron yet! lol
I heard Vapage might be working on some sort of an adapter for the Kick, for us modding challenged folks!
Keep us informed! I may just buy my first sodering iron yet! lol
I heard Vapage might be working on some sort of an adapter for the Kick, for us modding challenged folks!
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this is just my mock up version. I will finalize it once I'm happy with my design. no soldering required and it works!
Nicely done Cracker! Question for you (probably don't know until you use it for a while but...) does the Kick spin or does it stay firmly in the rotation you put it at? I ask because I could see how in pocket/purse the jiggling could cause the Kick to spin enough that the ground spring is no longer making contact with the metal plate. But if it's a tight enough fit then that's likely not going to happen.
Also, you didn't mention it but I assume you epoxied/glued the plate to the chassis? My concern would be that if its only held in place by the solder, that the act of changing batteries over time may put undue stress on the solder joint and/or the ground wire. If you're concerned about using an adhesive (like Gorilla/super glue) that would make removal of the plate at some point down the road really hard, I'd think that even a mild adhesive would suffice to give it just enough "grip" to stay put. just a thought!
Nice clean work and doesn't look beyond the abilities of most people to do!
Also, you didn't mention it but I assume you epoxied/glued the plate to the chassis? My concern would be that if its only held in place by the solder, that the act of changing batteries over time may put undue stress on the solder joint and/or the ground wire. If you're concerned about using an adhesive (like Gorilla/super glue) that would make removal of the plate at some point down the road really hard, I'd think that even a mild adhesive would suffice to give it just enough "grip" to stay put. just a thought!
Nice clean work and doesn't look beyond the abilities of most people to do!
Good work Chadster!
It looks like sheet aluminum bent to shape? Or did you cut a pipe lengthwise? I like the full length because (for my needs) it'll add a little structural rigidity!
It looks like sheet aluminum bent to shape? Or did you cut a pipe lengthwise? I like the full length because (for my needs) it'll add a little structural rigidity!
It's an aluminum sheet cut and molded into shape. Also the sheet extends to the bottom of the spring so whenever you place a battery it will touch the sheet and soldering needed. I will finalize my design and make it clean. The Kick ground spring is facing the back so if it spins while inside my pocket the Kick will still be grounded.
Sweet! I wish Evolv had made 2 minor adjustments to the Kick prior to release:
1. Put some sort of keyway on it so that spinning could be prevented if desired (it can still be done, but maybe not as elegantly as if there was a built-in channel/keyway)
2. Put access to the pot from the side. I know for top loaded pvs the current pot configuration is ideal, but that's what, less than 10% of all pvs?!?! If the pot screw was facing the side, you could actually drill a small hole in the tube/side of the mod and be able to access it with a screw driver without having to take the pv apart! It'd make fine tuning adjustments easier: vape > adjust > vape >adjust >vape > perfect! As it is, you have to at least partially disassemble every pv to get to it. (I know, it's a set it and forget it device, but there's times where I can see wanting a warmer or cooler vape!)
As far as the kick moving around in there...well, I'm not really sure. Time will tell. The plate however, was pretty snug just being captured by ground wire, so I think a bit of solder will be enough. If I'm wrong I can always glue it down later, and will post it if I do.
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