I would think that means you can charge up to 1A or 1000mA. Charging at 500mA (or .5A) is safe it just means it'll take longer.
The "WeekEnder"
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So I would need a 5v 1A PS to charge at the max charging current. What are you guys using as a PS for charging LiPo's w/ an internal charger?
As Eponator said, it will work, but you just wont realize the full benefit of it unless you get a 1amp wall wart.
Two suggestions:
- Get the 1 amp module and you will be covered regardless of what wall wart you use. Personally I would choose this option and just buy a 1 amp wall wart myself. I like this one for $8, I have two of them and they are quite handy.
- Or, especially if your mod is tight on space, you could get the Evolv 500mA charger which is considerably smaller.
For a 1S bat I am using the 1 amp USB charger and the wall wart I linked to above.
Now if you are using 2S (7.4v) or above (only for something like the "Raptor", NOT a DNA) then you need an external charger and a way to do "balancing".
Thanks for the suggestion. I will likely order that wall wart with my next FT order. I'm not to concerned with space because I plan to break out the MicroUSB connector to give me more versatility with mounting options. I would really like to use 1A charger, so it doesnt take forever to fully charge.
Thanks Mike and I love your work w/ the DNA20.
Thanks Mike and I love your work w/ the DNA20.
I am planning on using 2 cells in parallel using this battery - 25C 3.7V 1200mAh Lipo Battery For SYMA S006 S006-24. its simillar to the ones Mamo used in the milo build
If I recall, Bap tested that one and said the contacts were high resistance.
As for the fuse, YES, unless you use something like the holder with built in protection, I would use a fuse. Theoretically the DNA should protect itself, but the fuse will protect the battery (and potentially YOU) against other mishaps. For example if a solder joint or other connection breaks loose, or your Redbull gets spilled in it.
I actually tested the same one Mike is using https://www.fasttech.com/p/1164901, but I removed the PCB.
I tested the Keystone 1048 and 1049 and the 1048 with its gold colored contacts measured great, where as the silver colored contacts in the 1049 measured somewhere in between the 1048 and the FT holder.
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For only a couple of bucks difference I would go with the Keystone 1048.
We had a power outage last week and my PC, TV, i-pad were shut down, and it was raining, so I couldnt golf.
Therefore, I talked to my wife for a few hours.....
She seems like a nice person.
Therefore, I talked to my wife for a few hours.....
She seems like a nice person.
Wonder what HER version of this conversation sounds like.......
"wow, he can talk. I thought he only grunted and moved his head."
Thanks for that! I already have the FT one on the way, for a couple of bucks I threw it in the cart along with 3 of each Chi-you top caps. I guess I'll use it on a Groove while waiting for the co-op. Without the DNA, "WeekEnder" parts like battery holders and fuses can wait.
Speaking of, are fuses on the potential parts list yet?
The "Girlie Weekender" is progressing:
Started with a SS ChiYou bottlecap. Soldered directly to the SS fitting and the center pin.
Need to work on my centering for the center pin adjustment slot, hard to do by hand.
Gathered it all together:
Thats a 25C 5600mAh bat on the right going in this Girlie Mod.
And a 65C 6000mAh bat on the left, destined for my next Mod aka "The Punisher". It will be with the new DNA30.
Not happy with the levelness of the USB, but I love the light pipe!
Here is my 3/8" stiff closed cell foam being cut to fit everything. Split the top half it down the middle as I needed it thinner up there to allow for the DNA board. The channel on the right is for input power wires that will run underneath the bat, then under the Charger board. Going to make all my power splices and fuse connections down there. Still need to cut holes in the foam for the up/down buttons. Did a dry run with the screen and bezel and it all fit fine.
Thats it for tonight, started getting too wired, had to walk away from it.
Started with a SS ChiYou bottlecap. Soldered directly to the SS fitting and the center pin.
Need to work on my centering for the center pin adjustment slot, hard to do by hand.
Gathered it all together:
Thats a 25C 5600mAh bat on the right going in this Girlie Mod.
And a 65C 6000mAh bat on the left, destined for my next Mod aka "The Punisher". It will be with the new DNA30.
Not happy with the levelness of the USB, but I love the light pipe!
Here is my 3/8" stiff closed cell foam being cut to fit everything. Split the top half it down the middle as I needed it thinner up there to allow for the DNA board. The channel on the right is for input power wires that will run underneath the bat, then under the Charger board. Going to make all my power splices and fuse connections down there. Still need to cut holes in the foam for the up/down buttons. Did a dry run with the screen and bezel and it all fit fine.
Thats it for tonight, started getting too wired, had to walk away from it.
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