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Long and short of it... Your resistance will bed higher then just a Ti, lower then just kanthal.... Wire is cheap enough to play with to find a sweet spot 
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Long and short of it... Your resistance will bed higher then just a Ti, lower then just kanthal.... Wire is cheap enough to play with to find a sweet spot
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
If I can interest my husband in playing with power tools after dinner (never terribly difficult, he loves those tools!), I'll twist some up and give it a whirl... but I'm already speaking to someone about maybe buying it.
I guess I feel like, something that's a gift, a well-earned reward, should give me more joy than this thing has given me so far. It really shouldn't be a big PITA.
Andria
I'll agree with that. Longer wire - more resistance.Long and short of it... Your resistance will bed higher then just a Ti, lower then just kanthal.... Wire is cheap enough to play with to find a sweet spot
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
The math in that thread makes intuitive sense but unfortunately is oversimplified.
If you took a length of kanthal, say 6". Measured it's resistance and cut a length of TI that was close to the same resistance and twisted the TI around the kanthal you would have a small enough impediance mismatch that both wires would pass about the same current.
Problem with kanthal is, it self insulates so almost no current would transfer between the two wires.
It still would not act like a kanthal coil on a VW device unless you set the wattage low enough that the temperature ramp-up is the same.
Kanthal and Nickel twisted together into a coil for example.
The Kanthal measures 0.5 ohms from end to end and the Nickel measures 0.015 from end to end.
Just like parallel resistors the total resistance of these two combined will will be lower than the lowest resistor.
Rparallel = 1/(1/R1+1/R2+1/R3 ...)
So this coil will measure 0.0146 ohms.
If you increased the Kanthal resistance to 50 or 50K ohms the coil will still measure 0.015.
This is the way I understand it from electronics. The heating of the wire will change the Nickel value, but not enough to have the Kanthanl affect the total unless it is an extremely low resistance piece.
Even if the above Kanthal piece was 0.2 ohms the total would be 0.0140 ohms
The Kanthal measures 0.5 ohms from end to end and the Nickel measures 0.015 from end to end.
Just like parallel resistors the total resistance of these two combined will will be lower than the lowest resistor.
Rparallel = 1/(1/R1+1/R2+1/R3 ...)
So this coil will measure 0.0146 ohms.
If you increased the Kanthal resistance to 50 or 50K ohms the coil will still measure 0.015.
This is the way I understand it from electronics. The heating of the wire will change the Nickel value, but not enough to have the Kanthanl affect the total unless it is an extremely low resistance piece.
Even if the above Kanthal piece was 0.2 ohms the total would be 0.0140 ohms
You forgot to put in a resistance/temp coefficient of R1.Its 1/Rt = 1/R1 + 1/R2 + ...+ 1/Rn
If you had been in one of my classes you would've learned it
Using the matched pair in my post above. As the temp of the coil heats up the current flow would shift to the kanthal.
Well, with all this math flying around, forget it, I don't want to try it that much.
Andria
Andria
Then if the current shifted to the kanthal, temp regulation would drop out.You forgot to put in a resistance/temp coefficient of R1.
Using the matched pair in my post above. As the temp of the coil heats up the current flow would shift to the kanthal.
I tried Ni and Kanthal twisted with a DNA40. It works just fine and I see no reason that Ti/K should be any different. But IMO using both at 28 gauge is going to be too much wire and surface area for the lower power Andria vapes at. I would try it first with thinner Kanthal.
They've managed to completely scare me off it, with all this math BS. Forget that, I ain't touching it.
Andria
I hear ya. I also saw from the rest of the posts that you're not comfortable dry burning Ti. I dry burned all the coils I made with TP on, set at just under what would cause it to glow. It takes a bit longer to do, but I also don't get my Kanthal red hot when I dry burn it so there was really not that much of a difference for me.
In the end you have to be happy with what you're doing and feel it's safe enough for you. If you're not getting any burnt hits there is IMO no point to TP. OTOH, if you do sometimes burn juice that is a health issue to consider in the big picture.
I also didn't have any problems getting a great vape out of TP, it works very well for me. I only made two Ni coils because of how fragile it is and then switched. I think you're pretty frustrated right now, but if you want another opinion on how to get what you want out of this stuff before you sell the mod, feel free to PM me if you feel like it.
You are correct. I made a mistake in my post above. The Ti wire length should be calculated at its desired temperature. That way it works as a sensor up to full temperature. Or if you plan to use it with varying temperatures, its resistance/length should be calculated at the maximum temperature it would be expected to reach.
It is only complex when you make a complex coil. If you use it like you would a Kanthal build, say you normally like 10W with a certain topper with kanthal in it, set the TC mod to 10W. And use the TC function to limit the top temperature it will reach.
Well, I really don't get dry hits -- if I did, I'd know I screwed up wicking it and start over with a new wick. I was interested in TC because the Achilles I've come to love so much don't have a clear-tank option, you have to open them to know if they need juice. Or so I thought, at first; I'm getting better at knowing the level of the juice in it, just from the taste of it -- if the level drops below the deck, into the well, it starts to taste not quite so yummy -- not a dry hit, there's still juice in the well, but the wick isn't quite as saturated, so the taste is a little thinner. If it gets lowr than that, not dry but gettng close, the gunk has built up so much in 2.5ml of vaping that it really doesn't taste good, so I dump out whatever fragment of a ml remains and put fresh juice in it. After it does that 2 or 3 times, it's time to dryburn the coil and rewick it.
The great thing about the Achilles (among many great things) is that with the japanese cotton wicks, they really don't have a break-in period; I normally vape the Achilles at about 8.5-9w, but right after a fresh wick, I keep it at the 8w at which I dry-burned it, for maybe 10 hits; then I can go to 8.5, but it tastes good either way.
Andria
It has to be set at 30w, because it gives a 30w blast the first time you hit the fire button, regardless of what mode it's in -- either TC mode, or vw mode. Which might not be a big deal to high-watt vapers, but it's more than 3 times more wattage than I normally use -- 9w. With the tight draw in these Achilles, it's wayyyyyyyyyyyy too much.
Andria
I don't get burnt hits either, which is why after I satisfied myself that TC didn't do anything better than power control for me I went back to Kanthal
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