The Womper Woom OR You Might Be A Modwomper

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TrollDragon

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This is the type of question from the noob's over in Head-Fi's tiny little vape thread...
Anybody have experience with claptons on unregulated? I've read a lot of people say they're no good unless on regulated. But those were like .4-.5 builds. I'm thinking of doing this build. 32g parallel nichrome wrapped with 24g kanthal at .2 each,then doing a dual for .1 Opinions?

He was told by one of the other members, if you even have to ask, then you probably shouldn't go there. :lol:
 

AndriaD

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This is the type of question from the noob's over in Head-Fi's tiny little vape thread...


He was told by one of the other members, if you even have to ask, then you probably shouldn't go there. :lol:

Heck, I don't like the ramp-up time of *28ga* and thinks he's gonna run a clapton with 24ga wrapped around on a mech???

I'd love the see the look on his face when he tries it. :D

Andria
 

Stosh

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I dont know how people did that! 32 gauge is so springy it takes work to keep those coils intact! I got lucky and the first coils I ever rebuilt were my Kanger Protank heads. I didnt try it until I had found the thread for it here so I had a jig made from day 1 and thankfully never had to do that. I remember watching a video from Cloud 9 about how to coil and wick a Kayfun when I got my first one and thats how the lady in the video did it. I was like "screw this, Ive already got a tool to do that!"

32 ga isn't so bad...:lol:...at least the new toppers are actually designed to be rebuilt.
Back in the day you had to mod the topper before even thinking on starting a coil.

Some history for a good laugh...Repairable CE2 | E-Cigarette Forum
 

Belhade

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Cause the Plume Veil doesn't leak... :lol:

What Kayfun?
Well, yeah the Plume Veil leaks, only when there's juice in it :laugh: But the leaking is predictable and other than that, it vapes like a champ.

It's a Kayfun v4, authentic. The juice control turns, and I can see the piece raise and lower, but I still can't get any juice to flow to the deck.
 
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TrollDragon

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Well, yeah the Plume Veil leaks, only when there's juice in it :laugh: But the leaking is predictable and other than that, it vapes like a champ.

It's a Kayfun v4, authentic. The juice control turns, and I can see the piece raise and lower, but I still can't get any juice to flow to the deck.
Very strange, not trying to be insulting but are you sure you are turning the JC the right way to open the flow. A buddy of mine was turning his the wrong way for a bit. He would loosen the top nut (#38), bubbles would rise from the holes and he would vape again. Then after a bit it would go dry on him and he would open the top again. Come to find out he was closing the JC instead of opening it.

With the drip tip away from you, looking at the 510 pin, turn the bottom part clockwise till it stops to open the JC. You can open the top nut a few threads for a second to let air into the tank as well. As long as the bubbles are rising the unit is wicking.

I make sure that the wick just touch's the deck with the ends of the cotton.
Sorry for the dirty wick pictures.
2015-08-10 23.23.27.jpg


2015-08-10 23.24.13.jpg


You have the exploded diagram, so you might want to take it apart completely and make sure all the bits are there and in the proper places.

The KF4 is an very well engineered atty that provides an excellent vape, I wish I had a couple more.
 
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Romano Cheese

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This is the type of question from the noob's over in Head-Fi's tiny little vape thread...


He was told by one of the other members, if you even have to ask, then you probably shouldn't go there. :lol:

"I just wanted to win a cloud competition and now I only have 7 fingers - thanks Clapton coils!" - that guy
 

Belhade

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Very strange, not trying to be insulting but are you sure you are turning the JC the right way to open the flow. A buddy of mine was turning his the wrong way for a bit. He would loosen the top nut (#38), bubbles would rise from the holes and he would vape again. Then after a bit it would go dry on him and he would open the top again. Come to find out he was closing the JC instead of opening it.

With the drip tip away from you, looking at the 510 pin, turn the bottom part clockwise till it stops to open the JC. You can open the top nut a few threads for a second to let air into the tank as well. As long as the bubbles are rising the unit is wicking.

I make sure that the wick just touch's the deck with the ends of the cotton.
Sorry for the dirty wick pictures.

You have the exploded diagram, so you might want to take it apart completely and make sure all the bits are there and in the proper places.

The KF4 is an very well engineered atty that provides an excellent vape, I wish I had a couple more.
Ok, I think I got it figured out - partially because I'm a dummy and I never knew which direction opened or closed it. And when opening it it wasn't always going all the way - I think the square o-ring was getting in the way.
 

Robert Cromwell

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I dont know how people did that! 32 gauge is so springy it takes work to keep those coils intact! I got lucky and the first coils I ever rebuilt were my Kanger Protank heads. I didnt try it until I had found the thread for it here so I had a jig made from day 1 and thankfully never had to do that. I remember watching a video from Cloud 9 about how to coil and wick a Kayfun when I got my first one and thats how the lady in the video did it. I was like "screw this, Ive already got a tool to do that!"
I wrap all my coils out of 32 ga Kanthal for Kanger coil heads.
 
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chopdoc

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You're such a drama queen king. An adorable woman with a good paying job wants you to get naked and check out your private parts and you're... complaining here?

I have no problem stripping with an adorable woman as long as she too is taking it off! I do have a problem with everyone and their brother wanting me to bare it all so they can look see!
 

chopdoc

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Ok, I think I got it figured out - partially because I'm a dummy and I never knew which direction opened or closed it. And when opening it it wasn't always going all the way - I think the square o-ring was getting in the way.

Here is how I always did it, when your unscrewing it to take the top off, thats the way it unscrews to turn the juice well off. When your screwing it back on, thats the way it screws to turn the juice valve back on.

Only time a Kayfun V4 ever leaked on me is when I didnt wick it right, or I let it sit in the cup holder in the car in the sun. Usually they dont leak at all. Now the Kayfun lites always like to leak on me if I laid them on their side. As long as they was standing up, they never leaked.
 

USMCotaku

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My kayfun v4's only leaked the very first time I refilled one..... Cause I forgot to shut off the juice control :p
My kayfun lite never leaks, upright, on its side, upside down... Doesn't matter, as long as I have it wicked right and bottom fill it, it's been perfect.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
 

AndriaD

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My kayfun v4's only leaked the very first time I refilled one..... Cause I forgot to shut off the juice control :p
My kayfun lite never leaks, upright, on its side, upside down... Doesn't matter, as long as I have it wicked right and bottom fill it, it's been perfect.

I think there must be some differences between mfr's, between production runs, even between individual tanks -- my first 2 kayfuns, both Tobecos with custom 2mm airholes, NEVER EVER leak. My EHpro never ever leaks. But my black tobeco always leaks from the airflow screw, and yes, I've replaced every single o-ring in the blasted thing, doesn't matter; it still leaks, and its position doesn't matter either -- there's always a slight seepage from the AFC screw. Really irks me, because that black kayfun looks great on my black iStick30.

Andria
 

Boden

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I think there must be some differences between mfr's, between production runs, even between individual tanks -- my first 2 kayfuns, both Tobecos with custom 2mm airholes, NEVER EVER leak. My EHpro never ever leaks. But my black tobeco always leaks from the airflow screw, and yes, I've replaced every single o-ring in the blasted thing, doesn't matter; it still leaks, and its position doesn't matter either -- there's always a slight seepage from the AFC screw. Really irks me, because that black kayfun looks great on my black iStick30.

Andria
I had the same problem. I replaced the #18 o-ring and polished the inside of the chimney where it rubs with some 600 grit sandpaper.
 
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Boden

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Very strange, not trying to be insulting but are you sure you are turning the JC the right way to open the flow. A buddy of mine was turning his the wrong way for a bit. He would loosen the top nut (#38), bubbles would rise from the holes and he would vape again. Then after a bit it would go dry on him and he would open the top again. Come to find out he was closing the JC instead of opening it.

With the drip tip away from you, looking at the 510 pin, turn the bottom part clockwise till it stops to open the JC. You can open the top nut a few threads for a second to let air into the tank as well. As long as the bubbles are rising the unit is wicking.

I make sure that the wick just touch's the deck with the ends of the cotton.
Sorry for the dirty wick pictures.
View attachment 479935

View attachment 479936

You have the exploded diagram, so you might want to take it apart completely and make sure all the bits are there and in the proper places.

The KF4 is an very well engineered atty that provides an excellent vape, I wish I had a couple more.
I just re wicked one.
image.jpg
 
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