The Snapdragon is a whole different story...
If you ordered the Snapdragon from 3F then see if you can Cancel it.
I spent an few hours playing with mine just to get is usable last night. You might want to try the SS316 one from FT instead.
The 510 cap, airflow ring and positive post screw are very similar in operation to the Rose V2. There is an insulator on the bottom of the deck that has a hole for the positive post screw and a divot for the negative post screw so it won't short.
Here is a picture from FC's version.
The bottom cap is left hand threaded onto the base, you only have about 3 threads to use on the base so it does not easily stay tight. There is no stick tool like the Rose has to tighten it up properly. The black bowtie thing is the insulator which goes over the screws, positive post screw sticks through the hole and touches the 510 plate (exactly like the Rose's 510 plate).
Here is the issue.
The bowtie has those 90 degree cutouts for the two air holes and it lines up perfectly when installed over the screws, it does not stay in the bottom cap. When you screw the bottom cap on, the three air holes for each side will not line up in the middle of the cutouts and you can end up with 2 holes blocked by the end of the bowtie. The height of the positive post screw dictates where the base stops turning and where the holes will come to a rest, the postive post screw is NOT adjustable. I had managed to get mine centered in relation to the deck air hole last night by cutting circles of paper the same size as the 510 plate with a center hole and using them as shims. It worked until I found that the both posts were not tight enough and turned while I was tightening down the grub screw on a Clapton coil I had made for it.
Off with the bottom cap, put the hex wrench on the coil screw and tighten the positive post screw. Good now all nice and tight I replaced the bottom cap and my holes were out of align with one hole blocked by the bowtie. I had shortened the distance of the positive post screw and now the bottom cap would turn a little bit further.
Too late at that point and I didn't fix it, I put the atty back on the Sigelei Mini 30W and it showed Atomizer Short...
Looking into the deck I could see the positive post had moved to the side enough to touch the deck itself. They made the insulator for the positive post flush with the deck instead of a .5mm taller and the screw has some play through that insulator. Off with the bottom to adjust the post and positive screw again. With it lined up enough not to short I wasn't worried about the airflow holes again.
The airflow ring doesn't really line up with the horizontal center of the holes and it leaves a gap as it is a hair too narrow for the space between the bottom cap and the deck edge. That is just a nit pick and not a problem.
So there is some tinkering involved to get this nice and tight and working. Major tinkering if you have any OCD like I do.
That Clapton was too hot (not enough airflow) so I took it out and put in a dual 26g 0.4 ohm build. The vape is nice the flavor is good, nothing spectacular though. It can get a little warm with the stubby DT and the cap has a smaller hole so not all DT's will fit.
I am going to:
1. Cut a small washer from a PTFE juice bottle to use as a positive post to deck insulator. A wrap or to of something on the positive post threads to take up the slack through the deck insulator.
2. Find the correct height with shims under the positive post screw, or the 510 plate so the bottom cap air holes
will line up centered on the deck's airhole.
3. Or cut the corners off of the bottom insulator turning it into a rectangle with a hole instead of a bowtie. That might actually be the easiest fix but my OCD will not like the air holes not centered, even though they are working perfectly.
For $16 I really cant complain and a little modding of a clone atty is par for the course.
Happy *almost* birthday to me!!!!!!! 
