The Womper Woom OR You Might Be A Modwomper

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chopdoc

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I am hoping to switch to mixing by weight. I need a scale and it just so happens that amazon.ca had the often recommended American Weigh Scales LB-501. Ah excellent, so I create an account and order the scale (which has free shipping).

At checkout shipping is 55 bux, AIR the scale was 42 bux. Total is 107.00 :sneaky::-x
So I phone amazon and they answered immediately, had no idea why shipping was so much and offered to ship it for a low low 28 bux. :lol: Yeah right, not happening.

Oh well, I found on on ebay. Hmmm can't log in... WTH ebay deleted my account!!!
I've had that account for over 20 years. Sigh :unsure:

When it rains it pours!!!!!!!!!!
 

Lannie

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Temp Control question for the brainiacs:


2. I have read lots of people claim that you should NEVER use a Ti or Ni coil in Wattage mode, yet they never explain why. Anyone here know? And if the fire button is only depressed for 2 seconds, why would it make any difference? The variation of watts required to maintain a specific temperature for that short of a time cannot be significant. Or is it?

Does anyone know the answer to this part of Rich's question? He's having trouble with the temp control on my wonky iJoy Solo, and I told him not to use the nickel coil in wattage mode because "everyone said you shouldn't." Is that right? And can you 'splain it to Rich? He thinks I've fallen for scare-mongering, I think. ;) :p But I can't tell him why he should NOT use nickel or titanium in wattage mode, other than "everybody says so."
 

chopdoc

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Welcome Back Buddy!!! :D
Nice build. They look like my Staple builds. I use 1mm ribbon wire wrapped with 32 ga wire. Your right about the flavor!!



I don't have an istick 40 so I can't speak on that. On my TC mods I adjust the wattage so I don't reach the temperature right away. I try to keep the temp as steady as possible. So if I set the temp to 420 degrees I'd like to have it that way through the whole draw. I know that on some mods you can only adjust the temp and the mod controls the wattage. That may be what happens on the istick 40? Don't know if this helps or not but just how I do TC.

That is kinda how I remember TC control also. All the wattage setting does is temp ramp up time.

Temp Control question for the brainiacs:

1. Is there a formula for calculating the wattage required to get a certain coil to reach a certain temperature. (my iStick says 40W on the display no matter what temperature I set - why?)
2. I have read lots of people claim that you should NEVER use a Ti or Ni coil in Wattage mode, yet they never explain why. Anyone here know? And if the fire button is only depressed for 2 seconds, why would it make any difference? The variation of watts required to maintain a specific temperature for that short of a time cannot be significant. Or is it?

The reason you dont want to use Ni or Ti wire in plain wattage mode is because if you heat up that kind of wire too much, well past the 600 degree limit then the wire will emit real nasty by-products that are very unhealthy to vape. As long as the wire is kept in the TC range, there is no real danger of it reaching that point. That is also why you do not dry burn that kind of wire. If you do a whitish powder that is toxic will form on the wire.
 

Fuzzy Thunderbear

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Does anyone know the answer to this part of Rich's question?
OK, I recently asked the following of a friend, so maybe I should repost it here in case anyone else has a comment:

My curiosity is due to the extremely short time that anyone holds down on the fire button... I know most mods are set to auto-off at 10 seconds, but I have never heard of anyone holding the button down that long. For those who use higher wattages, it appears that 1-2 seconds is the average fire time (even if they, as I do, keep sucking for an equal amount of time after releasing the fire button - the coil is still hot and still making vapor, so why not utilize that? ...and your wicks will not gunk as quickly if you suck that vapor out rather than letting it congeal on the wick/coil.). Anyway, if the average cloud chaser holds the button for 1.5 seconds, then it seems to me that temperature control would be totally irrelevant/unnecessary because there is no time for the circuitry to respond to variations in the coil temperature by altering the wattage up or down; microseconds surely cannot make a big enough difference. To me, TC is kind of like displaying Joules - only someone who wants to believe he is a scientist would even care about Joules consumed - the average user doesn't even know what a Joule is - it is just another marketing gimmick to sell to a certain type of user. Anyway, everyone tells me that if you are using Ni or Ti coils, you should never use wattage mode. That doesn't make sense to me if you only fire for less than 2 seconds. I have some factory-made Ni and Ti coils (and I don't want to throw away perfectly good coils), otherwise I wouldn't even bother with this question because I see no need for TC when VW works just fine for me.
 

Fuzzy Thunderbear

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The reason you dont want to use Ni or Ti wire in plain wattage mode is because if you heat up that kind of wire too much, well past the 600 degree limit then the wire will emit real nasty by-products that are very unhealthy to vape. As long as the wire is kept in the TC range, there is no real danger of it reaching that point. That is also why you do not dry burn that kind of wire. If you do a whitish powder that is toxic will form on the wire.
Thanks for that response. Now, if I am using 30W (or less) for 2-3 seconds, that ain't gonna hit 600 *F. Right? Are we safe, therefore, to tootle Ni or Ti coils? And, it also begs my original question: is their a formula to calculate temperature based on wattage for any given coil resistance for a given period of time?
 
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Atchafalaya

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I am hoping to switch to mixing by weight. I need a scale and it just so happens that amazon.ca had the often recommended American Weigh Scales LB-501. Ah excellent, so I create an account and order the scale (which has free shipping).

At checkout shipping is 55 bux, AIR the scale was 42 bux. Total is 107.00 :sneaky::-x
So I phone amazon and they answered immediately, had no idea why shipping was so much and offered to ship it for a low low 28 bux. :lol: Yeah right, not happening.

Oh well, I found on on ebay. Hmmm can't log in... WTH ebay deleted my account!!!
I've had that account for over 20 years. Sigh :unsure:
Geez, sounds like you're having a bad day!
 

Atchafalaya

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Uh, that's kind of frightening!!!:eek::ohmy:
 

USMCotaku

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Temp Control question for the brainiacs:

1. Is there a formula for calculating the wattage required to get a certain coil to reach a certain temperature. (my iStick says 40W on the display no matter what temperature I set - why?)
2. I have read lots of people claim that you should NEVER use a Ti or Ni coil in Wattage mode, yet they never explain why. Anyone here know? And if the fire button is only depressed for 2 seconds, why would it make any difference? The variation of watts required to maintain a specific temperature for that short of a time cannot be significant. Or is it?
No actual formula I know of (though if you input your build in steam engine, the higher the heat flux per watt number is...the more wattage you will generally need)....the Istick 40w automatically puts full power into temp mode until set temp is reached....there should be a way to adjust it, but if it is working ok, no reason to.

As to why you should never use Ti and Ni in wattage mode....they both form toxic byproduct when heated too high...Ti forms Titanium Dioxide (a yellowish powdery substance), that you do not want to inhale...but it forms this at a temp well above what a TC limited device will produce, so if you are using it on TC mode, you don't have to worry about it forming...Ni is similar, but I dont remember the name of the stuff produced.
 

USMCotaku

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Thanks for that response. Now, if I am using 30W (or less) for 2-3 seconds, that ain't gonna hit 600 *F. Right? Are we safe, therefore, to tootle Ni or Ti coils? And, it also begs my original question: is their a formula to calculate temperature based on wattage for any given coil resistance for a given period of time?
not necessarily. depending on the gauge of the wire, Ti, and even more so Ni, can heat up really quickly.....and yes, TC adjusts on a decent mod REALLY quickly, so even on short draws, you can notice a difference...specially if you have your "preheat" wattage high enough to hit desired temp quickly..one of the benefits to TC vaping....you can set it up to reach your ideal vape temp almost instantly, but maintain that temp through your draw (regardless of draw length) instead of getting hotter.
 

chopdoc

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Thanks for that response. Now, if I am using 30W (or less) for 2-3 seconds, that ain't gonna hit 600 *F. Right? Are we safe, therefore, to tootle Ni or Ti coils? And, it also begs my original question: is their a formula to calculate temperature based on wattage for any given coil resistance for a given period of time?

Fuzzy, its your lungs and your life. I wouldnt but thats me.

Is there a formula, you betcha there is. What it is i dont have a clue but there is always a formula for everything. :D
 

TrollDragon

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Thanks for that response. Now, if I am using 30W (or less) for 2-3 seconds, that ain't gonna hit 600 *F. Right? Are we safe, therefore, to tootle Ni or Ti coils? And, it also begs my original question: is their a formula to calculate temperature based on wattage for any given coil resistance for a given period of time?
The problem is if the wick goes dry, that Ni or Ti coil will go red hot instantly at 30W!

balazsk from the Beyond Ni, Ti... thread has the formula you might be looking for in this post.
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance


Sorry, that was not what you need. The wattage setting under TC is only for getting the coil up to temperature (higher = faster) and then the chip throttles the power from there to maintain the set TCR resistance.
 
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Woofer

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Thanks for all sympathy regarding my scale problems! :)

@Fuzzy Thunderbear there is so much misinformation surrounding TC and the wire involved it is sad.

The problem is if the wick goes dry, that Ni or Ti coil will go red hot instantly at 30W!

I say the TD has the correct answer. Other than that there is no reason not to use Ti or Ni in wattage mode. However there is no advantage to use them in non TC applications.

Ti will form a white powder (Titanium dioxide aka TiO2) at reasonable low temps wiki said;
"Titanium readily reacts with oxygen at 1,200 °C (2,190 °F) in air, and at 610 °C (1,130 °F) in pure oxygen, forming titanium dioxide.[8]".

"Titanium dioxide dust, when inhaled, has been classified by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) as an IARC Group 2B carcinogen, meaning it is possibly carcinogenic to humans.[62] The findings of the IARC are based on the discovery that high concentrations of pigment-grade (powdered) and ultrafine titanium dioxide dust caused respiratory tract cancer in rats exposed by inhalation and intratracheal instillation.[63]"

Aside from inhalation which may be a problem TiO2 is considered very safe and is used in things from food to sunscreen.

AFAIK Ni does not produce any dangerous oxides in use as a vaporizer coil. Ni heated in an atmosphere of carbon monoxide will produce nickel carbonyl, it is an unstable and very very toxic chemical. At one time this is how Ni was refined for purity. Some peeps are allergic to Ni, one of the beta testers for Evolv had a severe nickel allergy, she was unable to wrap coils but had no issues vaping Ni coils.

The funny part is few question Kanthal or stainless. ;)
 

chopdoc

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I did a thing today.
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Yep.

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Cool welds.

Word has it Sanders first act as president will be to instruct the department of forestry to plant more money trees to pay for all the free stuff he keeps promising.
 
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