The ZAP Rebuildable atomizer (RBA)

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9ball_AJ

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ninfreak , aj - I been following the 500 mesh thread and when the stock coil needs changing, I'm going to change to a 'fat' wick also. For your 'fat' wicks what mesh (400 / 500) are you using, what size are you cutting the mesh for the wick, and (oh yea) are you using the ZAP w/ or w/o the insulator?

thanks

Currently I have a 400 Mesh wick in, and it was probably 7-8cm long before I rolled it. I have the insulator in, and the wick is nice and tight in the insulator. According to Zen~ the insulator is required. I currently have a 2.7 ohm coil at 5.3 volts, and it is working fantastically. My next wick will be 500 mesh, but this one is working great, no need to waste it. I am going change to a 6 wrap 30g coil later this evening, as this current coil is taking a primer puff to heat up, but the 2nd puff is oh so sweet!

I have a 30g coil on 500 mesh on another Genny atomizer tank on a mechanical mod, and it is performing amazingly well.
 

9ball_AJ

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So to get higher ohms, u need more wraps?

Yes, the longer the wire, the more resistance you get. You also get more surface area for heating, and theoretically more vapor.

I just wrapped a 6 wrap coil with 30g and it came in at 1.7 ohms. @ 4ish volts it is quite nice.
 

icucme2

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Yes, the longer the wire, the more resistance you get. You also get more surface area for heating, and theoretically more vapor.

I just wrapped a 6 wrap coil with 30g and it came in at 1.7 ohms. @ 4ish volts it is quite nice.

Very nice. Now i think w the zap we got 32 g wire. Whats the benefit of 30g? Its thicker right?
 

9ball_AJ

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It is thicker and allows you to wrap a longer coil while keeping the resistance lower. Allows you to cover more surface area with a hotter coil. Not necessary when using the VV of a Provari, but it is helpful for mechanical 3.7V mods. I am experimenting with different configurations atm.
 

9ball_AJ

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I'm trying to understand why the insulator is necessary. I can't seem to locate the statement where zen says so and gives explanation why.

Zen~ has stated on several occasions that an insulator is required in all of his PV's and Atties, except for the Anodized Aluminum Models. Here is one example, but there are others:

Let's just correct this before it spins out of control... on the Sidewinder... The tank and the center post of the tank are stainless... it needs an insulator and takes the thinner wick.

The ONLY devices that do not require an insulator are the BAM, Cobalt and Pchela. ALL OTHERS need one.
 

9ball_AJ

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I believe the insulator he's talking about is the center post insulator. The wick insulator on the other hand isn't necessary if you take time to oxidize it well.

While I agree with you, Zen~ has repeatedly stated that the wick insulator is required. Since he is the manufacturer I will take heed of his warnings, and pass along the info when necessary. If you read the context around that post, he is talking about the wick insulator. Here is a link to the post: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...uring-zenesis-pv-post7405546.html#post7405546
 

MikeE3

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Currently I have a 400 Mesh wick in, and it was probably 7-8cm long before I rolled it. I have the insulator in, and the wick is nice and tight in the insulator. According to Zen~ the insulator is required. I currently have a 2.7 ohm coil at 5.3 volts, and it is working fantastically. My next wick will be 500 mesh, but this one is working great, no need to waste it. I am going change to a 6 wrap 30g coil later this evening, as this current coil is taking a primer puff to heat up, but the 2nd puff is oh so sweet!

I have a 30g coil on 500 mesh on another Genny atomizer tank on a mechanical mod, and it is performing amazingly well.

Thanks AJ. It's nice to know that 7-8cm will roll up tight enough to fit into the PTFE insulator. For now, I'll be following Zen~ advice that it's needed. Although, I have my doubts that its necessary. Dan designed the GTUS to have an insulator and me and a lot of folks (including Dan) don't use it, and have no issues with it shorting the coil. My gut feeling is Zen~ doesn't want to have people complaining that it doesn't work because they don't have a well oxidized wick in the hole.
 

9ball_AJ

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I am not going to speculate on Zen~'s intentions, and it is not my place to say whether he is right or wrong. I generally agree that with the Z Atty Pro, it is not 100% necessary to use an insulator for the device to work, and work well. I do think the insulator is helpful, and removes one point of a possible problem for someone that is having trouble getting their wick/coil short free. I use other RTA's without insulators and they work great. The big fat tightly rolled 3.5mm wick is my preferred wick, as it does wick really well.

That being said, I currently have a tightly rolled wick installed with the insulator, and it is wicking very well. Plastic does melt, and if your bottom coil is too close to the insulator it will melt with normal use. I have learned to keep that first wrap at least 2mm above the atty floor for that reason.

My personal recommendation is to use the insulator until you are well versed in making a short free wick and coil. And I will always tell people that the manufacturer's recommendations should always be followed despite the fact that it may work in other configurations. Unless, of course, there is a valid safety reason that the manufacturer's recommendations should be ignored or contradicted.
 

TechJ

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No worries. What works for me may not work for others. I personally vape a juice known for being a tank buster. I do so at wattages most shy away from. Granted I have only been vaping a month and a half, I have been dabbling in electronics for 20+ years.
I was just trying to understand why is all. I do appreciate your help as I am still a newbie.
I have a feeling I will be investing in center post insulators and orings for this little beast. I've noticed the high temps and choice of juice have negative effects on all non metal components of my setup as well as my other genesis devices. Small price to pay to stay smoke free.
 

TechJ

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Lol it's a combination of the anise and citrus that wreaks havoc on the plastics.

I haven't had any side effects from it in comparison to vg heavy juice that I started with.

In all it can't be near as bad as smoking by any means.

It's funny my choice of juice dictates the hardware I use. My tank orings are fine. But my cap oring softened and swelled a bit. Had to use a spare from my backup mechanical device.

I hear ya on the wallet damage. Most of it ( in my book) is due to a lack of research and going too cheap the first time around. Now my hunt is for juices that are formulated for genesis atty use. Everything I had was fine in a cartomizer. Way too strong now. Often sickeningly sweet.
 

9ball_AJ

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Here's a hint , it is Radioactive green.

I assumed as much, you being in Alaska and all. I still have yet to try that juice out, but I hear lot's of good, and only a little bad. I over bought juice by leaps and bounds a few months ago, so I have been on a juice buying hiatus since.

I agree on the over sweetened and over flavored juice. The ZAP and devices like it really provide a crisp clean flavor, and many juice vendors test their juices on either cartos, or silica based clearos, causing the excess flavor.
 

9ball_AJ

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I had a disaster tonight. Are they any ProVape reps that can let me know if you guys are going to have any replacement top caps in the near or even long term future. Im sad :(

Sorry to hear about that, is it damaged to the point of being unusable?
 
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