Just out of curiosity... What's the difference between building a coil on a mechanical battery holder and an electronically regulated battery holder that's set to 3.7v?
Thinking about an inexpesive mechanical mod
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I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the telescoping one. With july10 coupon the thing was only like $35. Everyone else is selling it closer to $60.
This is what I'm set out to discover for myself. I have no problems building coils on anything so I'm fixin to try a sub ohm coil on a mech mod vs a 1.5 ohm coil on my provari. My brain tells me using 28 gauge kanthal and doing 6 or 7 wraps to get a 1.5 ohm coil will create just as good of a vape on the provari at 3.7v as a sub ohm coil on the unregulated mod. I could be wrong though. I'll know by this time next week though.
Brock- did you pick up some wick and wire at vapapalooza? That was a cool experience. Spent way too much money.
You're going to get very different results. At 3.7V, 2.47 amps will flow through a 1.5 ohm coil. A 0.5 ohm coil, on the other hand, will draw 7.4 amps at 3.7V. Amps = volts divided by resistance. Heat dissipated by the coil = amps squared times resistance. A sub-ohm coil will always get much hotter, assuming the same voltage is used in both cases.
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with genesis atomizers you are using SS mesh and wrapping a coil on it, there is a chance you will be dealing with shorts in the coil.
on a VV apv they usually have short circuit protection which means it will keep turning off before i can find and eliminate the short.
on a mechanical there is no short protection and as long as you hold the button you force the coil to fire, giving you more time to work on the coil.
in my case i use unoxidized mesh meaning it will short the second i touch the button, there is a trick called the pulse method where you keep firing the mechanical until all the shorts are gone, and the coil fires properly, once they are worked out you can then use the atty on any device you want.
you cannot do this on a regulated device because of the short circuit protection.
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Ahh, that makes sense. So the short-circuit protection in regulated devices gets in the way of setting up the coil. I'll have to rethink my diy e-cig design now. Having a way to remove the regulator from the circuit for coil building with the flip of a switch would be handy...
Thrash, would you mind giving them a brief explanation of the dangers of an unregulated mod, good sir? I would, but I am not qualified to provide such an explanation. Or is there a link to something that they could be referred to?
With protected batteries, the dangers are pretty minimal. The main thing that you have to watch out for is a short-circuit causing the battery to overheat, but the circuit in a protected battery is meant to cut the power before that becomes a problem. Even if the protection fails, you're going to notice the battery heating up pretty quickly in a hand-held device.
With most regulated batteries, the short/low ohm protection kicks in at 1.1ohms.
Also keep in mind that wattage in itself doesn't mean much. Consider this: 8 wraps for 1.6ohm is twice the amount of metal of a 4 wrap 0.8ohm coil. Higher ohms "allow" less power to flow from the battery. So, you essentially have a coil that require more power to heat, but sucks less power out of the battery. So, either you regulate voltage up (not very efficient), or you lower your resistance.
For me, sub-ohm (I stay at .8) is not so much about vapor production in itself. It's about how quickly it delivers my desired amount of vapor.
People who vape at 20+ watts might seem crazy to people who are used to setting their Vamo to 7.5w for a clearo. However, they're not inhaling plasma. They're just heating thicker wire.
Please correct me if I'm wrong. I may very well be.
Edit: And do your research on safety like Eddard says.
Also keep in mind that wattage in itself doesn't mean much. Consider this: 8 wraps for 1.6ohm is twice the amount of metal of a 4 wrap 0.8ohm coil. Higher ohms "allow" less power to flow from the battery. So, you essentially have a coil that require more power to heat, but sucks less power out of the battery. So, either you regulate voltage up (not very efficient), or you lower your resistance.
For me, sub-ohm (I stay at .8) is not so much about vapor production in itself. It's about how quickly it delivers my desired amount of vapor.
People who vape at 20+ watts might seem crazy to people who are used to setting their Vamo to 7.5w for a clearo. However, they're not inhaling plasma. They're just heating thicker wire.
Please correct me if I'm wrong. I may very well be.
Edit: And do your research on safety like Eddard says.
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No kidding i just ordered one of those #19s with the Nzonic the other day. Cant wait, have a #20 coming too. Hopefully the springs are decent or can simply be cleaned up a bit and work well for me
These are about the same price as a SB if you want a bottom button.
LEGACY [USA]
There is also the Mako & The Don
moju republic electronic cigarettes
LEGACY [USA]
There is also the Mako & The Don
moju republic electronic cigarettes
2.5 and 3.0 wick. And 32 gauge wire. And a 12 inch by 12 inch sheet of stainless steel mesh. The wire runs a little higher ohms than I wanted. Just ordered some 28 an some 30 off ebay. Ebay is the place to get kanthal wire. 3 something for fifty feet of 28 gauge. 4 something for fifty feet of 30 gauge. Free shipping on both.
That really doesn't make any sense -
I disagree. I am btw in love with 0.8 to 1.0 ohm coils on mechs but! If you are looking for a regulated device that you can bring with you while skydiving and then mountain-bike your way down the Himalayas ending up on a construction site.... A kicked mech is the way to go.
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My ulterior motive is just wanting to try one that is not a bottom feeder (which I have had before and didn't like). If I find I like mechanicals, then I can get a better one.
I'll do my best to explain this, but what you end up liking more will be based on your personal taste of course. The current draw part was already explained, so I wont get into that.
Lets say your sub-ohm coil is 0.8 ohms. In the mech, your battery will start out at around 4.2 V fully charged. I will not account for voltage drop, because it is impossible to know without special equipment, so this will only be theoretical. So the mech will start out at 4.2 x 4.2 / 0.8 = 22 Watts. This will be a fairly intense vape.
Lets say you set your Provari to 4.2 V and use the 1.5 ohm coil, to avoid the low resistance error. The dissipated power will be almost 12 Watts. Response time will be slower and the vape will be less intense. Since you can raise the voltage on the Provari, you set it at 4.7 V to put it right under the 15 Watt limit of the device. The vape will get more intense, but it may not reach the level that the mech is giving you. I don't know how the Provari handles voltage drop, but if it allows very little while it is significant in the mech, the vape may be very similar. Response time will still be slower because you are heating up more wire with the same or less power.
There also is wire surface area and temperature to consider, which can be altered with different wire gauges. The theory and practical experience start to get difficult to correlate quantitatively at this point, so its tough to give a brief explanation. Tinkering and experimentation is the best way to understand it for yourself and correlate it to real world experience.
So yeah, there is math and resistive heating theory involved in understanding how to get the most out of a mech. Most don't want to think so much about it, and it is possible to get a good vape from just about any device. So if you wish to learn, a mech a great tool to do so. Or if you just want to avoid short circuit protection for building good coils, that is cool too. The most important part is being happy with your vape.
just for future reference to these things there is none in a provari,it has a self regulating circuit - 4v will be exactly 4v.
but yea there are so many freaking variables now a days it s not funny anymore. you can play with a few coils and enjoy the vape or you can go crazy checking everything to make what you got work the best it can. or you can follow others guidelines and get what works well together etc.
the rabbit hole for rba's and mechs goes as deep as you want it to.
Thanks for that. I love hearing from folks more electrically educated than myself. Ask me about medicine and the human body and I can prolly tell you all you ever want to know. Ask me about how all that electrical stuff works and I'm pretty clueless. My interest in mech mods is solely to run my genesis atty at a bit lower ohms than the provari will allow me. The provari handles the power drop flawlessly due to it's chip. The first vape off a freshly charged battery hits just like the last before the battery is running low. That's one concern I have with mech.mods. I'm not sure I'll like that getting a good vape that diminishes as the battery dies. Also I see these batteries say not to drain below 2.5v. With a mech mod how do you know when that occurs. I guess I'll test them in the provari and get a feel for it over time.
Sent from Galaxy Note 2 via Tapatalk 2.
Lol. Yep. I'm like a kid with new toys. I've tinkered with my provari and zmax with about 20 different rba's and genesis atty's over the last year. So I've pretty well done everything I can with that. So next toy to tinker with ends up being a mech mod. Good thing I didn't quit smoking to save money. Lol.
Sent from Galaxy Note 2 via Tapatalk 2.
Yeah, that's what I was thinking but I didn't look into it before posting. I figured it was minimal or nothing due to the regulation. I was thinking of a pbusardo video I saw, where there was some voltage drop at some setting, but I just checked and it was only a tiny bit at lower voltage settings with low resistance cartos. I imagine it has something to do with stepping down the battery voltage rather than stepping it up with the 4+ V settings.
Thanks for the quick heads up.
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