I don't quite understand the hype behind mechanical/fixed voltage mods.

[gravewolf]

If you wanna get .8 ohms on your rba then you need about .75 inches of 32 gauge kanthal. It's not about how many wraps you do to a coil to get the resistance, it's the length of the wire that determines it. I vape at 1.8 using 1.5 inches of 32g kanthal since that is my sweet spot and with my mod that uses silver as a material in almost every part I am getting great performance from any type of battery I load into it. I've done modifications on my friends mechanical mods replacing the negative and positive contacts with silver even some of the firing pins and they outperformed the stock ones. They had to alter their coil setups too since it got too hot and burned the juices. The only danger with my upgrade is that since conductivity has increased a short will definitely be dangerous if you're using unprotected batteries.

All in all I like mechanical mods since they are more flexible if you have the proper knowledge to set them up. They're durable, simple to operate, easy to upgrade and the expensive ones are works of art that deserve a place in any self respecting vaper out there.

 

[EDO]

Did anyone mention that your batteries last double the amount of vape with mechanical mods? I don't care how you set up your rba....try it on your VV device then switch it over to your mechanical device....you will see that it will last usually twice as long on your mechanical mod. Even if your vaping at 3.7 volts on your vv device on the mechanical mod your batteries will last easily twice as long.

 

[Shiryo]

I can't verify that yet. Still been experimenting with coils on the RBA. Going to try a new method in a few days, twisted wire. However, going to compensate with more wraps, so battery life will probably be the same, just want more coverage on my wick.

Moreover, I barely let my battery drop below below 3.9v (unloaded) before I chuck it on the charger, the change in vape experience throws me off too much, but i'm going to build the twisted wire coil setup with a battery reading around 3.8v and go from there, that way i'll have a good vape experience throughout the whole battery life.

 

[xformulax]

.5.........you wanna blow your face off don't you? 27 watts at 7.4 amps.....that is nutso. yes the c rating on an aw 18650 is 10.....but you really don't want to go over 6-7

on a fresh battery you are getting upwards of 32 watts and 8 amps under load.....that is not safe

I appreciate your post, and I appreciate battery safety awareness! but the C rating is not equal to amperage. It's discharge amps per 1Ah (1000mAh) of storage.

A = C*Ah

so, assuming the batteries in this scenario are all 10C:
1000mah = 1Ah = 10*1 = 10amps
1600mah = 1.6Ah = 10*1.6 = 16amps
2000mah = 2Ah = 10*2 = 20amps
700mAh 18350 = 0.7Ah = 10*.7 = 7amps (purely fictional, this assumes your 18350 has a C rating of 10 as well, but it'll likely differ!)

IF the batt has a 10C rating, and is 2000mAh, that's 20amps and 7.6amps is well below "dangerous" range.

on the other hand, if you stick a 10c 700mAh 18350 in there, you're looking for trouble as you're exceeding the 7amp discharge limit.

 

[Shiryo]

Your math confused me. lol

 

[2nd chance]

In mine I stack 2- 750 mah RCR123A 3.0v's, wonderful combo & vape all day long (no Kick)

 

[t8kiteasy]

In mine I stack 2- 750 mah RCR123A 3.0v's, wonderful combo & vape all day long (no Kick)

You are talking about two totally different things,straight six volt vaping.We are talking about mech. mod with low ohm coils.

 

[2nd chance]

You are talking about two totally different things,straight six volt vaping.We are talking about mech. mod with low ohm coils.

I'm afraid not....OP's first post was what I was addressing, as I have a Roller as well. TYVM

OP's Post>>

I don't quite understand the hype behind mechanical/fixed voltage mods.
I just got a Atmizoo Roller on Friday... It is my first mechanical mod and although it's such a beautiful mod... As hard as I try to like vaping with it, I keep picking up my ProVari. This is only because it gives me the extra vapor and flavor I need, it has that kick I need.

When I throw a SR Boge carto on the Roller with a fresh battery (so ~4.1v) I still get a better vape experience with the ProVari @ 3.9 volts. I know the reason is because of the voltage regulation etc. etc. etc. but it's just odd...

So tried vaping a 1.5ohm RBA setup on the Roller, again fresh battery and still, although better, not as great. However, the general consensus on RBAs is that most people run massive wattage on RBAs.

Just still weird how 8.0-8.3 watts on the ProVari with a Boge gives me a better vaping experience than the Roller pushing about 10 watts on the RBA...

So next month I am going to pick up a kick for my roller and hopefully that does the trick...

What is the hype over mechanical mods? I know of a couple reasons, but what about the vaping experience?

I also created a poll asking how many people run a Kick with the same general info I posted here, if anyone wants to add to the number of kick users and non-kick users...

 

[t8kiteasy]

I'm afraid not....OP's first post was what I was addressing, as I have a Roller as well. TYVM

OP's Post>>

I don't quite understand the hype behind mechanical/fixed voltage mods.
I just got a Atmizoo Roller on Friday... It is my first mechanical mod and although it's such a beautiful mod... As hard as I try to like vaping with it, I keep picking up my ProVari. This is only because it gives me the extra vapor and flavor I need, it has that kick I need.

When I throw a SR Boge carto on the Roller with a fresh battery (so ~4.1v) I still get a better vape experience with the ProVari @ 3.9 volts. I know the reason is because of the voltage regulation etc. etc. etc. but it's just odd...

So tried vaping a 1.5ohm RBA setup on the Roller, again fresh battery and still, although better, not as great. However, the general consensus on RBAs is that most people run massive wattage on RBAs.

Just still weird how 8.0-8.3 watts on the ProVari with a Boge gives me a better vaping experience than the Roller pushing about 10 watts on the RBA...

So next month I am going to pick up a kick for my roller and hopefully that does the trick...

What is the hype over mechanical mods? I know of a couple reasons, but what about the vaping experience?

I also created a poll asking how many people run a Kick with the same general info I posted here, if anyone wants to add to the number of kick users and non-kick users...

Iwas not talking about the first post,i was talking about the last post's we were discussing,which were about mech.'s and low ohm coils.tyvm.

 

[2nd chance]

I was staying on topic to the op, but thanks for the correction anyways

 

[xformulax]

Your math confused me. lol

which part? its just C rating times amp hours... if the battery is listed in milli-amp hours, you just move the decimal 3 places to get to amp hours (1600.0 to 1.6000) and multiply by C [10(1.6)=16] to get the amps.

 

[Shiryo]

In mine I stack 2- 750 mah RCR123A 3.0v's, wonderful combo & vape all day long (no Kick)

I was wondering if I could stack 2 AW-IMR 18350s... But didn't want to kill myself. I'll wait for your reply before I attempt it... That's like close to 8v, not sure if that's safe lol unless I made a 4Ω-4.5Ω coil...

which part? its just C rating times amp hours... if the battery is listed in milli-amp hours, you just move the decimal 3 places to get to amp hours (1600.0 to 1.6000) and multiply by C [10(1.6)=16] to get the amps.

So pretty much the higher the mAh rating, the more amps you're pushing which means the more consistent and "safer" (with a lack of better words, reliable?) vape using sub-ohm coils (or any extra low resistance coils)?

I'm currently using a single 18350 and going to pick up an 18500, not sure which to go with, thinking of sticking to AW-IMRs but I kinda want to to venture into MNKE or EFEST..

 

[2nd chance]

I was wondering if I could stack 2 AW-IMR 18350s... But didn't want to kill myself. I'll wait for your reply before I attempt it... That's like close to 8v, not sure if that's safe lol unless I made a 4Ω-4.5Ω coil...
..

I wouldn't know about the 18350's, The combo I posted are all I use in mine.

 

[Fury83]

I am pretty sure people have run stacked 18350's for 7.4 volts (well a bit more off the charger and with no load) but it seems like a recipe for burned juice and popped coils. I am don't see how it's a any less safe than stacking 3v batteries, I would use a shortstop though.

 

[xformulax]

I am pretty sure people have run stacked 18350's for 7.4 volts (well a bit more off the charger and with no load) but it seems like a recipe for burned juice and popped coils. I am don't see how it's a any less safe than stacking 3v batteries, I would use a shortstop though.

shortstop will trip at 5a, but if you're running a 2 ohm coil you'll get a 35 watt vape (LOL!) and be at around 4.2 amps... insane... tempting to try, but I don't like stacking batteries... could be done in a telescope device with kick room, 18650+ kick is around 80mm, dual 18350's is 70mm plus a few mm for the shortstop, and tighten up your tele.

350's are not a stout battery though, and for that i'd use AW only (dont think mnke has a 350)

 

[Shiryo]

2nd Chance and I have Rollers, I have a bunch of AW-IMR 18350s (Provari, and previously a SaberTouch and 2 VMaxes) and 2-18350s fit, but I dont have the balls to fire off a SR Carto at 7.4v, they tend to say bye at 6 on the Provari...

 

[Vaptor]

Measure your battery under load. Chances are that your battery drops a lot and you're not getting the Voltage. At say 3.9V you should be getting same vape as with Provary. In fact it'll be nicer vape since there is no coil pulsing.

 

[CASEACE79]

I was wondering if I could stack 2 AW-IMR 18350s... But didn't want to kill myself. I'll wait for your reply before I attempt it... That's like close to 8v, not sure if that's safe lol unless I made a 4Ω-4.5Ω coil...



So pretty much the higher the mAh rating, the more amps you're pushing which means the more consistent and "safer" (with a lack of better words, reliable?) vape using sub-ohm coils (or any extra low resistance coils)?

I'm currently using a single 18350 and going to pick up an 18500, not sure which to go with, thinking of sticking to AW-IMRs but I kinda want to to venture into MNKE or EFEST..

mAh has NOTHING to do with amperage limits. All mAh is, is how long the battery will last. For example:

An AW 18650 has a 2000mAh and 10amp continuous output

A MNKE 18650 has a 1500mah battery but a 20amp continuous output.

By your logic the AW would be a safer battery but it's not. The amperage is how many amps that can be drawn from the battery SAFELY. Here's an example with a low ohm coil.

For this example were going to assume both batteries are at 3.7v. With a .3ohm coil you'll be pulling 12.333 amps which is over the amp limit for the AW18650 but not the MNKE even though the mAh is higher on the AW.

People PLEASE understand ohm's law before going to mechanical mods. Test your coils using a meter. Ya can get them for like $20 and do it every time you build a coil. Then use a free app like an ohm's law calculator to figure out how many amps your drawing before firing with a battery. As long as you have 2 values the app can calculate the rest for you. A fresh battery is at 4.2v so you have that value. You need the ohm of the coil to calculate the rest.

In my example above using an AW battery has a high likelihood of battery failure. Also known as venting or BLOWING UP!

 

[mr_chris_chen]

mAh has NOTHING to do with amperage limits. All mAh is, is how long the battery will last. For example:

An AW 18650 has a 2000mAh and 10amp continuous output

A MNKE 18650 has a 1500mah battery but a 20amp continuous output.

By your logic the AW would be a safer battery but it's not. The amperage is how many amps that can be drawn from the battery SAFELY. Here's an example with a low ohm coil.

For this example were going to assume both batteries are at 3.7v. With a .3ohm coil you'll be pulling 12.333 amps which is over the amp limit for the AW18650 but not the MNKE even though the mAh is higher on the AW.

People PLEASE understand ohm's law before going to mechanical mods. Test your coils using a meter. Ya can get them for like $20 and do it every time you build a coil. Then use a free app like an ohm's law calculator to figure out how many amps your drawing before firing with a battery. As long as you have 2 values the app can calculate the rest for you. A fresh battery is at 4.2v so you have that value. You need the ohm of the coil to calculate the rest.

In my example above using an AW battery has a high likelihood of battery failure. Also known as venting or BLOWING UP!

This ....

And I don't think that mechanical mods are hype anymore. They built a lot of steam up in this past year and a ton of of people are subohming. It really is a lifestyle.. It's amazing. I've had some customers convert from a Provari to a mech mod and they never went back.

So definitely, it's not hype. And I'm certain it'll just keep growing.

 

[t8kiteasy]

The only build I have on ANY of my mechs is a sub ohm build.From .3 to .7 is where I like to vape at and Mechanical MOD's like the Precise ELA,which I have with me everywhere I go,is a work of art.That is the fascination with mech's that others do NOT understand.The Ballistic,Hades(just for lasting battery power on this one),Puresmoker Legacy,etc...we kling to these for that one reason others just simply do not get or understand,they are works of art it's just as simple as that.