Tired of people defending the protank ll

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HEKTEK101

Unregistered Supplier
Jan 18, 2014
8
0
Boston, MA
My protank 2 should be here in a few days. My Dad vapes and lives in Florida, he goes through quite a few different rda's and cart's and when he finds one that works great he'll send one up here for me. So he called the other day to tell me about the protank and how he mailed me one because it's all he uses now. The OP seems to have a lot of negative remarks about this rig so I'm anxious to see how it goes once I use it now.
 

PhuxAche

Full Member
Jan 21, 2014
15
2
Scotland
I have 2 Protank2's and noticed they didn't work too well with a normal EVOD 1100Mah bat. What I worked out is that due to the design and the material used the PT2's need a mod with good voltage to heat up. Now that sounds silly because it's the atty that's heating up, and you would think that should do the trick and vape nicely. But when I used the normal EVOD it took a while to get a good vape plume. Then I bought the EVOD VV which goes up to 4.8v. The EVOD is at a steady 3.7v (which technically should be sufficient), but using the VV at say 4.0v or 4.2v gave a nice quick heat and a good vape plume on my juice which ranges from 40/60 to 20/80.

I also think the Kanger Atties are ....e to be honest. This adds to the problem for gurgling, and poor performance.

Overall, I think the tanks are great. No leaks, nothing.

Hope this helped a wee bit?

Cheers!
 

Big Juicy

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Mar 22, 2013
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I am having quite a few problems with my Protank II right out of the box. If someone can lend specific solutions for the following issues I would really appreciate it.

1) Too tight of a draw. I have it screwed in so loose to my mod to get some draw on it that it is unpractical.

2) Pulling juice up through the drip tip. No matter what I do i am still getting juice up there

3) Juice continues to leak out the bottom

I have disassembled it and put it back together 3 different times now and I am still having these issue. Help please!

Thanks!
 

Mturner262

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Jan 6, 2014
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I have protank 2, 2x protank 2 mini and protank 3. I have only had good luck with all of them. I've heard a lot of bad reviews on them but mine have been 100% trouble free. I would buy more but I'm trying to branch out and try different things.

edit: did have bad luck last Friday when I dropped a mini and busted the glass :( but new glass showed up today so it's all good
 
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crxess

Grumpy Ole Man
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Sep 20, 2012
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I am having quite a few problems with my Protank II right out of the box. If someone can lend specific solutions for the following issues I would really appreciate it.

1) Too tight of a draw. I have it screwed in so loose to my mod to get some draw on it that it is unpractical.

2) Pulling juice up through the drip tip. No matter what I do i am still getting juice up there

3) Juice continues to leak out the bottom

I have disassembled it and put it back together 3 different times now and I am still having these issue. Help please!

Thanks!

Until you get the air flow corrected, you will have the other problems. they are all inter related. Tight draw is increasing suction, drawing excess liquid into the center tube. While taking a draw it reaches the drip tip. while not in use, it drains to the bottom.

This is supposed to fix complaints:
Kanger Airflow Control Valve - Protank II, Protank 3, Aerotank

This provides air flow from Above the 510 connection to avoid blockage by the device.
 

adrkaushal

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Dec 26, 2012
436
184
India
On the advise of a friend we got 2 of the protank 3s and they have been nothing but problems. The taste is great when it works right but.... it leaks, no matter what we do the stinking thing leaks, we burn through a coil every 2 days if I use it exclusively. I just don't think it is worth the time I put into it, taking it apart, cleaning and reassembling 2-3 times a day to stop the leaks so short term.

I like the evod for the most part, just seems like the tank could have been bigger

It's like deja-vu .. I read similar problems/threads an year ago about T3s .. tanks/clearos/cartos usually flood/leak when the liquid is too thin, higher PG, lesser VG. I use 70vg/30pg or 60vg/40pg eLiquids. None of my cartos/clearos flood/leak that much because of the thicker juice.

While flooding can be controlled by using a thicker coil and allowing lesser space for the juice to flow inside the fire chamber, leaking is a totally different beast to deal with. It's just a manufacturing fault imho.

This thread has sparked my interest in the PT2 I have, gonna give it a try today and see what I can come up with .. yesterday the mailman delivered some new wires and stuff like .25, .30, .35, .40 and .45 and 1.5 mm & 2.5 mm ekowool :)
 

Ohms Lawbreaker

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Jan 18, 2014
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My personal experience debunks the myth about needing to keep it at least 1/3 full. Although I do rebuild my own heads with cotton, I can vape every tank down to the last drop (or almost) with no problem. Really can't see any vacuum in these things. The liquid seems held in place by its own viscosity or surface tension or something. I did have some leaking problems with thinner juices, but am DIY-ing my own VG-rich juice now and no problems whatsoever.

The observation made by crxess that problems are interrelated seems true. Gotta work out all the bugs but works great if you can get everything to fall into place. Only complaint is the base of the mini protank 2, that bar that spans the diameter where the chimney goes in, one side is severed and the tank now sits crooked when all put together. Still doesn't leak though. Like the sturdier base of the mini Davide better, but the draw is too airy for me.
 

randomhousegir

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Jun 30, 2013
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Haven't had a tank that wont flood yet. I love my protanks (2, 2 mini, and 3) and they flood CONSIDERABLY less. My protanks are my favorite And I have made the rounds with tanks. If you are having problems it may not be an authentic kangertech. My coils last forever, the glass tank is super resilient to drops (I am a mechanic who can't stop putting my setup in my front pocket and it does not hesitate to jump out) and coils are cheap. I am sorry you have had problems but the protank made me love vaping and maybe someone sold you a knockoff.

all my DIY mixes are 12mg nic in a 50/50 pg/vg solution. You can use any amount of nic to your preference though. Happy Vaping!
 

PhuxAche

Full Member
Jan 21, 2014
15
2
Scotland
which evod are you using? I have a couple evod-c tanks and they are constantly gurgling and leaking. Was thinking of trying the protanks for this reason.

The Protanks are fab! I love them. I have two Protank2's. No problems. No leaks. No gurgles. Best to be used with a Variable Voltageor MOD. Using a normal Kanger 1100Mah will not create enough heat - bear in mind the Protanks are glass and metal so will take more power to get a good vape. I know the Atty is what heats, but if using a BCC tank, that's lighter and transfers hear quicker.
 

PhuxAche

Full Member
Jan 21, 2014
15
2
Scotland
I am having quite a few problems with my Protank II right out of the box. If someone can lend specific solutions for the following issues I would really appreciate it.

1) Too tight of a draw. I have it screwed in so loose to my mod to get some draw on it that it is unpractical.

2) Pulling juice up through the drip tip. No matter what I do i am still getting juice up there

3) Juice continues to leak out the bottom

I have disassembled it and put it back together 3 different times now and I am still having these issue. Help please!

Thanks!



Aha! This is NOT the Protank2's fault...

I think I know your problem because I have just started getting this problem today with my new batch of atties! Did you get your atomizers recently? This is an important question...

Do you have old atomisers lying around? When I say old, say like from past few months? If so, get the rubber grommets from them.
Kanger have replaced the rubber grommets with silicone grommets which are too soft and squeeze and fatten up and block the wee hole of the wee dowel that slips into the grommet!

Kanger have replaced the rubber to silicone because silicone has a higher heat resistance compared to the rubber - which is good, but has now created this silly flaw! So yes, you do have to screw the PT so far down to get a draw, but make sure to lock it with the cone screwed up to it. You''ll probably have a 1mm or a wee bit less of 1mm gap between the cone and the battery shoulder now!

Let me know how you get on!
 

JohnD0406

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Sep 6, 2013
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Los Angeles, CA
So you hypothesize that this valve will cure all 3 of my problems???

What everyone is saying is correct - your other 2 problems are related to airflow. I added a Davide BCC to BDC adapter, the AeroTank base, and am using the Aspire dual-coil heads. I did have to do two modifications to the AeroTank base. I drilled all 3 holes to 1/16th", and removed and filed 0.75mm off the positive pin so the AeroTank base sits flush on my ProVari (an issue you may not have with another device).

Here's a pic I posted in another thread (before drilling the AeroTank base holes to 1/16th").
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...hill-mountain-drip-tips-411.html#post11929733
 

adrkaushal

Super Member
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Dec 26, 2012
436
184
India
Oh my effin lord!!

I just setup my Protank 2 with .32 wire micro coil with 1.5mm Ekowool ... HOLY vaping lord, I've outdone myself and I can't even effin believe it! I think my fogger is going back to the dark corner where I pulled out my Protank from. Damn! I can't believe this! Hold on, a video coming soon!
 
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