Too much cotton on the Velocity V2?
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Thats the Avocado24. Running dual 8 wraps of 22AWG for about .25 at 80W. Hard to tell by the pics but the wick is just barely tucked behind the rim and does not actually drop down into the tank.
Love this atty, its got BFAF and a velocity deck, and the tank is a pretty cool feature.
Love this atty, its got BFAF and a velocity deck, and the tank is a pretty cool feature.
That is why tc is great for dripping. No burned taste just loss of flavor and Vapor tells you to drip.
Don't drip and drive. SQUONK
Have you ever used the Velocity V2? I have a question. Everyone says that you are supposed to wick with the tails of the cotton just touching the well. I started to cut the cotton longer and tuck each side underneath the coil. Then I juice it up and press the cotton that was under the coil down to the well till it's all flat in the well, creating it as if the legs are just touching the well, so there is like a ring of cotton on each coil. I can still stick a screwdriver underneath one coil to the other.
This hissing coil sound is happening again. This wasn't happening before I rewicked my coils. I didn't rewick for 3 days and I never had this issue and wasn't doing this either when I first wicked, only like 40 puffs into this cotton. There has to be a cause for the coil hissing sound that sounds for 2-3 seconds after each puff. What can I do to avoid this annoying sound? It really is bothering me.
Like I said, its your coils ramping down. 22AWG holds the heat a lot longer than a thinner wire and what you're hearing is the juice sizzling on the coils as they cool. Either release the switch earlier in your draw(and keep drawing to allow cool air to pass over the coils), or maybe try a higher guage(thinner wire) which will cool down quicker and not have that sound. When I first started building I worked with 28AWG exclusively. I personally believe that 26AWG and 28AWG(both Kanthal) are the best guages to use when starting out. They make great coils, give a good foundation of building basics, teach proper wicking techniques and are versatile enough for many different resistance levels.
The only other thing I can think of that might be part of the problem is if your cotton is too loose inside the actual coil. It should be snug enough to give resistance when pulling the wick through but not so thick as to move the coils as you wick. This can be tricky to figure out with 22AWG since its so thick and sturdy that you can actually have too much cotton and still not move the coil while wicking.
The only other thing I can think of that might be part of the problem is if your cotton is too loose inside the actual coil. It should be snug enough to give resistance when pulling the wick through but not so thick as to move the coils as you wick. This can be tricky to figure out with 22AWG since its so thick and sturdy that you can actually have too much cotton and still not move the coil while wicking.
Thanks for all that info. My cotton was actually very thick and initially very hard to get it through the coil. Do think that cotton being too thick in the coil can cause this too? I think the style of wicking is my issue, being that I went 3 days with the same build just that now I rebuilt it to make it better. But being that I wasn't having this issue I have to assume that it's the wicking.
I would imagine that wicking is contributing to your problem. Wicking is almost an art form, its hard to explain how to do it exactly but there are some guidelines. Unfortunately me telling you that it should have some resistance but not enough to displace the coil isnt really enough information since its really hard to use enough cotton to disfigure a coil with 8 wraps of 22AWG.
You want snug, but not tight. After you cut off the loose tips it helps to fluff the ends of the cotton before applying the juice and tucking the legs of the wick down into the well. If you have Ko Gen Do(KGD) Cotton pads then I highly recommend the scottish roll technique. It can actually work with many different kinds of organic cotton pads but I find that it works best with KGD.
I actually find this guy a bit annoying but in kind of a funny way I guess but his tutorial on the scottish roll is really good.
You want snug, but not tight. After you cut off the loose tips it helps to fluff the ends of the cotton before applying the juice and tucking the legs of the wick down into the well. If you have Ko Gen Do(KGD) Cotton pads then I highly recommend the scottish roll technique. It can actually work with many different kinds of organic cotton pads but I find that it works best with KGD.
I actually find this guy a bit annoying but in kind of a funny way I guess but his tutorial on the scottish roll is really good.
I don't have more than 4 pads to experiment with now so I can't try the Scottish roll now. Is it possible that what's causing this is that I have the tails of the wick overlapping underneath the coil and pressed to the bed of the RDA? Most people say to have the cotton tails just touching the bed. Maybe also because the cotton is so thick there is too much cotton and less air flow within causing the coil to not get enough juice at any given time?
Well, you already know my opinion on having the tails overlapping under the coil on the bed of the well. Its too much cotton. Id say watch the video on the Scottish Roll anyway and you might pick up some tips of wicking. I also recommend getting more cotton. Its best to have LOTS of cotton and wire on hand if you're going to build your own coils.
I also have a pack of cotton bacon. Yeah I am going to watch as many YouTube videos as I can about wicking. Thank you
I hope its helpful. I know how frustrating wicking can be when its not working out right and it can be even more frustrating when you ask questions and the answers you get seem vague and like the person is guessing. The more you work at it the easier it will become.
That is all very true. So wicking seems so easy, just putting cotton through a coil but it's much more complicated than that. Especially when running at all different ohm builds.
all great advice in here..
I'd just add that from your first picture, the improvement would be that I'd push the cotton a bit more into the well... so that you have the most open area around the coil.
Some people prefer the well with just liquid that the tips sucks up, trouble is, if you tilt it too much, you'll have a mess. I prefer to have just enough cotton on my well to prevent that and hold the liquid in place.
The Scottish method is also a "must" with pads, as the goal is to make your wick full and fluffy to make contact with every bit of the coil, BUT using the least as possible, basically the goal for a good wick is 1) lots of empty space between the fibers that gets filled with liquid, and 2) that it's just dense enough to hold that liquid in place while holding it's shape and not flatten and leave space between itself and the coil.
I'd just add that from your first picture, the improvement would be that I'd push the cotton a bit more into the well... so that you have the most open area around the coil.
Some people prefer the well with just liquid that the tips sucks up, trouble is, if you tilt it too much, you'll have a mess. I prefer to have just enough cotton on my well to prevent that and hold the liquid in place.
The Scottish method is also a "must" with pads, as the goal is to make your wick full and fluffy to make contact with every bit of the coil, BUT using the least as possible, basically the goal for a good wick is 1) lots of empty space between the fibers that gets filled with liquid, and 2) that it's just dense enough to hold that liquid in place while holding it's shape and not flatten and leave space between itself and the coil.
Sure... but note that these have been in use for a while now, my cotton is very colorful.
My collection (well, part of it)
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A simple Stainless but you can see that it's still very "firm" in the coil, and goes into the well, with the spacing under the coil being wide open
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Similar with a clapton.
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Note that I do prefer to have some spacing and usually go with temp control, but I do have a stock of claptons that I use every so often on these RDAs.
And yes.. they are all glass RDAs.. no metal back taste for me, and the airflow is simply much better with glass bells or my crack pipes..err. I mean my teapots. (but that's another story)
Another note... the clapton I think is a 2.5, but the others are all 3 or 3.5mm, I forget, I've built these months ago.
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