The bottom wick will stick to the coil because of all the burnt up gunk holding it to the coil. If you have this problem, a soak in alcohol or some serious dry burning of the coil, will normally get the two to seperate.
Triton Coil Complete Rebuild
- Thread starter Joe13
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The bottom wick will stick to the coil because of all the burnt up gunk holding it to the coil. If you have this problem, a soak in alcohol or some serious dry burning of the coil, will normally get the two to seperate.
Thanks for the responses so far, im going to start a diff't thread about juice consumption and when do people change their wicks before i hijack this one.
Thanks!
As others stated, serious gunk buildup will "cement" the lower wick inside the coil. Ethanol soaks, boiling, and dry burns may help loosen it.
The coil wire is 32 gauge kanthal, which is really delicate. If it takes a good amount of effort to remove the wick, the coil could be damaged, or it could short out against the side of the housing.
For me, any seriously gunked wicks are prime candidates for complete rebuilds. Once you weigh the time and effort of removing a gunked-up wick without damaging the coil, seems like it's quicker to rip the old coil out and put in a new one.
nice write up. But if I was going to just try re-wicking my stock triton tanks (i dont feel like doing the whole re-coil at the moment), what size Ekowool should I be looking for if Im getting the solid core?
So far ive seen 1.5 and 2.0 mentioned in this thread, but I would be worried about it being too loose and not making good contact.
So far ive seen 1.5 and 2.0 mentioned in this thread, but I would be worried about it being too loose and not making good contact.
2mm silica or 1.5mm ekowool are what you need, they are both 2mm external diameter
additional note!! the 1.5mm ekowool is what you need ONLY IF!!!! you are getting the hollow core ekowool. If you get the ekowool that is not hollow... then... well then you are going to have to spend time screwing around removing single fibers at a time.
So i ordered some 1.5 hollow ekowool. Now can i use it for both the bottom and top coil? Or do i need to use cotton/another silica wick for the bottom?
I can't wait for it to get here. So far Ive been stretching as much use out of my current coils as possible. Got some burn marks on the wicks but just slid them down one side so clean wicks are on/in the coil. I feel like a cheap ...
I can't wait for it to get here. So far Ive been stretching as much use out of my current coils as possible. Got some burn marks on the wicks but just slid them down one side so clean wicks are on/in the coil. I feel like a cheap ...
the answer is... maybe....
you need the 1.5mm to thread the coil, but the flavor wick you might need thicker, depends on how far down the condom will slide down. and you might find that making it doubled up with the flavor wick works better.
you need the 1.5mm to thread the coil, but the flavor wick you might need thicker, depends on how far down the condom will slide down. and you might find that making it doubled up with the flavor wick works better.
So i tried to get the ekowool to work on one of my coils....... doesnt work. I could not get it to compress enough to get threaded through.
I tried to wrap it with teflon tape, but it still does not compress enough to get through the stock coil. This is with the 1.5 hollow. I even tried with fishing line but I couldnt tie it tight enough.
Also, how do I deal with the frayed ends when cutting the ekowool? So far with my luck, I am starting to think buying the halo replacement coils is the better way to go (because its not fun if it doesnt work)
I tried to wrap it with teflon tape, but it still does not compress enough to get through the stock coil. This is with the 1.5 hollow. I even tried with fishing line but I couldnt tie it tight enough.
Also, how do I deal with the frayed ends when cutting the ekowool? So far with my luck, I am starting to think buying the halo replacement coils is the better way to go (because its not fun if it doesnt work)
I don't know of any magic recipe either. I thought the teflon tape was as good as it gets.
You can get standard T2 coils with short wicks for half the price that Halo sells, but Halo's have long wicks: the short wicks fray even faster than Ekowool!!!
You can get standard T2 coils with short wicks for half the price that Halo sells, but Halo's have long wicks: the short wicks fray even faster than Ekowool!!!
OMG holy moly pffft shmoly roly poly this iz the shnitz and WORKS!
well, i was trying to decide (and started composing response) to respond on this thread or my thread about the wick change... and then i had some time and a few tools within reach and so... i just did this.
Here is my time table for this discovery:
30 minutes trying to remove and maybe just re-thread the coil wick on an overly gunky coil (all of mine are overly gunky after 5 days pretty much).
after realizing, i could not just remove the wick... i said "heck!" just try to coil it ... i had set of drill bit in 2 rooms over and went and grabbed the 1/16 bit
1 minute to snip length of wire which i guessed would be appropriate enough
2 minutes to wrap around drill bit (i did 6 to 7 wraps ... i dont have resistance tester ready at this point to test this with (i have a 510 mod with tester built-in un-opened and i dont have a 510 to 808 connector)
3 minutes to use my metal tweezers to hold and heat the coil using a regular lighter ... did not have fancy blow torch but i was hoping my wrap would be tight enough which turns out to be the case, i think the heat does help but not major necessity
the metal tweezers did not get hot enough to hurt my fingers so i was good there.
And here i strayed off the directions.
i threaded in my wick right here. figured i could hold the coil in position with the wicks during install
i was worried that it would be more difficult to get in the wick after install and did not want to get that far and just can't wick so this is why i put in the wick here.
This was like 10 minutes,
then i figured, what the hey ... licked the wick and twist it tight and sure enough, i got the tip thru after like 5 tries and all good.
i aint believing in all that jazz about teflon and needles and what not - i call bull on that.
i guess i do appreciate the seemingly better contrived methods, but this part alone, held me back from trying this until today and would not be surprised if others feel the same and am hindered by having difficulty threading in the wick and im here to say ... this part is simple:
wet with spit or water, spin tight (one directions spins loose, one spins tight, just be sure you ARE using twisted wick and not ekowool) and just have steady hands and you should be able to spin in a 2mm twisted wick (have not tried ekowool but that's in my shopping cart on ebay)
moving on:
installing the coil (with the wick in it) took about 44 minutes.
as stated by Joe13, it's a fight to get the silicon grommet to install correctly.
i used the tips of my tweezers. and i almost had a neat trick with a 3/32 bit but it worked once then failed which i wont elaborate at this point as im not sure if that repeatable.
however, due to length of time fiddling with this part, the slot in which the wick sits basically started to shear against the wick itself.
at this point... i realized, i -SHOULD- use the drill bit to hold the coil in place when trying to install the grommet.
so ... i removed my half cut wick and put in the 1/16 drill bit into the coil.
to further clarify Joe13's part about inserting the ends into the hole and one end outside the grommet.
basically, one end must touch the side of the housing
and one end must touch the center metal plug - ONLY***.
And here is where there is some "trickiness" : cutting down the wire ends to the right length is quite difficult. you need to get the center one cut to meet the end of the grommet and not really stick out past the end of the grommet. When the grommet is in its correct position, its depth is past the threads on the head. so you gotta cut the wire as close as possible.
the outside wire you can cut close and then bend any small length to the side and the grommet will cover it.
basically, the grommet is pushing the center wire end onto the center metal plug.
if this end is too long, it will bend out and possibly touch the outer housing which would then cause a short.
i used the very corner of my nail cutters to get as deep as possible and had to cut this wire 3 time and then still had to bend it some more with my tweezers.
now install the metal plug - 1 minute, just push it in with a mini screw driver or even the drill bit.
i found a good way to make sure that center wire end is not protruding too much is by inserting a plastic tooth picker end (like Plackers) and run around the outer edge of the metal plug to make sure you dont feel the center wire sticking out. And if you do feel it, then you should be able to use same said pick and just push the wire under the metal plug.
as i had the drill bit holding the coil in the proper orientation and right height inside the center post, i can thread the wick into the coil just like before, spit and spin in.
put in second wick, put on the top cap to the post and then the silicon cover over the cap onto the post.
put a few drops of water onto wick.
connect to tank and test to make sure it fires.
now... i do have a v.v. battery so i fired on lower voltages - around 3.4 to 3.5 to make sure it would fire.
CAUTION HERE: since i did not check resistance of coil, i set my variable voltage battery to just shy of lowest setting to be safe, and this vv has short protection so i can do my test run this way without
if you are only running a straight up battery, i would NOT suggest to try coil rebuild without a way to check resistance of coil.
SHOULD/MUST at least have a short protection on the battery.
im getting decent vape even set at the dead minimum setting of 3.3 volts. (decent vape = YMMV, my decent may be your crappy; my decent, may be your cloudy day, i dunno)
well, sorry this is not a really organized write-up, more like just pointers from someone who did this with following tools:
small tweezers (which are just a tad bit wider than the metal plug)
mini flat screwdriver (for glasses and such)
plastic tooth picker
2mm wick
32 gauge kanthal
1/16 drill bit
nail clippers
regular Bic lighter
spare tank
variable voltage battery
about 2 hours of use and increasing ... still good and setting variable volt at the middle between 3.3 to 3.8.
as Joe13 mentioned, this can prolly be done in like 5 minutes if you're really good and have dextrous fingers.
probably no more than 15 minutes each tho.
Now i can Midnight Apple more once i get me my manufacturing line going.
THANK YOU JOE13.
well, i was trying to decide (and started composing response) to respond on this thread or my thread about the wick change... and then i had some time and a few tools within reach and so... i just did this.
Here is my time table for this discovery:
30 minutes trying to remove and maybe just re-thread the coil wick on an overly gunky coil (all of mine are overly gunky after 5 days pretty much).
after realizing, i could not just remove the wick... i said "heck!" just try to coil it ... i had set of drill bit in 2 rooms over and went and grabbed the 1/16 bit
1 minute to snip length of wire which i guessed would be appropriate enough
2 minutes to wrap around drill bit (i did 6 to 7 wraps ... i dont have resistance tester ready at this point to test this with (i have a 510 mod with tester built-in un-opened and i dont have a 510 to 808 connector)
3 minutes to use my metal tweezers to hold and heat the coil using a regular lighter ... did not have fancy blow torch but i was hoping my wrap would be tight enough which turns out to be the case, i think the heat does help but not major necessity
the metal tweezers did not get hot enough to hurt my fingers so i was good there.
And here i strayed off the directions.
i threaded in my wick right here. figured i could hold the coil in position with the wicks during install
i was worried that it would be more difficult to get in the wick after install and did not want to get that far and just can't wick so this is why i put in the wick here.
This was like 10 minutes,
then i figured, what the hey ... licked the wick and twist it tight and sure enough, i got the tip thru after like 5 tries and all good.
i aint believing in all that jazz about teflon and needles and what not - i call bull on that.
i guess i do appreciate the seemingly better contrived methods, but this part alone, held me back from trying this until today and would not be surprised if others feel the same and am hindered by having difficulty threading in the wick and im here to say ... this part is simple:
wet with spit or water, spin tight (one directions spins loose, one spins tight, just be sure you ARE using twisted wick and not ekowool) and just have steady hands and you should be able to spin in a 2mm twisted wick (have not tried ekowool but that's in my shopping cart on ebay)
moving on:
installing the coil (with the wick in it) took about 44 minutes.
as stated by Joe13, it's a fight to get the silicon grommet to install correctly.
i used the tips of my tweezers. and i almost had a neat trick with a 3/32 bit but it worked once then failed which i wont elaborate at this point as im not sure if that repeatable.
however, due to length of time fiddling with this part, the slot in which the wick sits basically started to shear against the wick itself.
at this point... i realized, i -SHOULD- use the drill bit to hold the coil in place when trying to install the grommet.
so ... i removed my half cut wick and put in the 1/16 drill bit into the coil.
to further clarify Joe13's part about inserting the ends into the hole and one end outside the grommet.
basically, one end must touch the side of the housing
and one end must touch the center metal plug - ONLY***.
And here is where there is some "trickiness" : cutting down the wire ends to the right length is quite difficult. you need to get the center one cut to meet the end of the grommet and not really stick out past the end of the grommet. When the grommet is in its correct position, its depth is past the threads on the head. so you gotta cut the wire as close as possible.
the outside wire you can cut close and then bend any small length to the side and the grommet will cover it.
basically, the grommet is pushing the center wire end onto the center metal plug.
if this end is too long, it will bend out and possibly touch the outer housing which would then cause a short.
i used the very corner of my nail cutters to get as deep as possible and had to cut this wire 3 time and then still had to bend it some more with my tweezers.
now install the metal plug - 1 minute, just push it in with a mini screw driver or even the drill bit.
i found a good way to make sure that center wire end is not protruding too much is by inserting a plastic tooth picker end (like Plackers) and run around the outer edge of the metal plug to make sure you dont feel the center wire sticking out. And if you do feel it, then you should be able to use same said pick and just push the wire under the metal plug.
as i had the drill bit holding the coil in the proper orientation and right height inside the center post, i can thread the wick into the coil just like before, spit and spin in.
put in second wick, put on the top cap to the post and then the silicon cover over the cap onto the post.
put a few drops of water onto wick.
connect to tank and test to make sure it fires.
now... i do have a v.v. battery so i fired on lower voltages - around 3.4 to 3.5 to make sure it would fire.
CAUTION HERE: since i did not check resistance of coil, i set my variable voltage battery to just shy of lowest setting to be safe, and this vv has short protection so i can do my test run this way without
if you are only running a straight up battery, i would NOT suggest to try coil rebuild without a way to check resistance of coil.
SHOULD/MUST at least have a short protection on the battery.
im getting decent vape even set at the dead minimum setting of 3.3 volts. (decent vape = YMMV, my decent may be your crappy; my decent, may be your cloudy day, i dunno)
well, sorry this is not a really organized write-up, more like just pointers from someone who did this with following tools:
small tweezers (which are just a tad bit wider than the metal plug)
mini flat screwdriver (for glasses and such)
plastic tooth picker
2mm wick
32 gauge kanthal
1/16 drill bit
nail clippers
regular Bic lighter
spare tank
variable voltage battery
about 2 hours of use and increasing ... still good and setting variable volt at the middle between 3.3 to 3.8.
as Joe13 mentioned, this can prolly be done in like 5 minutes if you're really good and have dextrous fingers.
probably no more than 15 minutes each tho.
Now i can Midnight Apple more once i get me my manufacturing line going.
THANK YOU JOE13.
Hi absoluttalent,
would think that the frayed ends are essential to threading the wick.
as the whole wick wont just fit right in.
a smaller frayed end should thread in easily then just spin it thru.
use spit or water, should help?
2 cents.
would think that the frayed ends are essential to threading the wick.
as the whole wick wont just fit right in.
a smaller frayed end should thread in easily then just spin it thru.
use spit or water, should help?
2 cents.
thats the thing with ekowool, you cant spin it. Its not like the other wicks where they are twisted together, it is braided. Twisting just makes it thicker.
And if you pull to stretch it, it will snap. it doesnt have the tensile strength to withstand big tugs to make it thinner
And if you pull to stretch it, it will snap. it doesnt have the tensile strength to withstand big tugs to make it thinner
oh.... now that you have said this ... hmmm.... maybe i wont get the ekowool to try.
cuz i could see not being able to handily thread the new wick in making this too much of a fuss.
how about.cutting the ekowool at a steep angle length-wise? so you at least have a point and use that to guide it thru?
it might fray all over the edges of the cut but once you get it through, you can cut perpendicular again?
would like to try this, but not so sure now if it's too problematic.
2 cents.
the ekowool is a pain in the ...., but it does do better than regular silica, enough that it is worth the hassle? that is really a personal choice.
While i have recoiled the triton coils, i have decided it just isnt worth the hassle with them.
While i have recoiled the triton coils, i have decided it just isnt worth the hassle with them.
I just realized, and couldn't edit my previous posts, but i couldn't rewick with ekowool in a stock Triton coil. I'm sure it would be easier when i make a new coil. But for now I'm using it as the top wick and saving the stock silica for use in the bottoms
a further update on my rebuilt coil... i did my first wash and... OMG... the wick can come out, i don't have to make a new coil!
this was not possible with the standard replacement coils!
O! M.G.
this was not possible with the standard replacement coils!
O! M.G.
I suspect that is because the factory ones, are wrapped around the wick, where as the ones here in the instructions the wick is threaded through after coiling.
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