Triton Coil Complete Rebuild
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my apologies. Chesty i made a mistake =) i had made another coil i forgot (it was my test wrap coil that i never fired) and that one was .7 on the tank. and .7 by itself. (should of labeled it haha) the two i tested this morning and they were both 1.5 in the tank (the two coils after subtracting the 2 from the leads) but that is good to know it wont fire at that point. i try to remember the ranges the Triton can accept and that first coil wasnt going to make the mark.
Thanks Fallen for that valuable info!
edit: Btw Fallen the coil tested in the assembly (before tank install) is what i was referring to. You recommend reading the coil too before inserting in the assembly? Sounds good thanks again
Thanks Fallen for that valuable info!
edit: Btw Fallen the coil tested in the assembly (before tank install) is what i was referring to. You recommend reading the coil too before inserting in the assembly? Sounds good thanks again
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My "smoke machine" tank is coming in at 1.3 ohms. Hopefully I will get a chance to video it over the weekend.
Just as you first get your skills down. Just cause it will be a real pain in the .... to put the coil in the assembly only to find out you did something wrong. Used wrong gauge, 1 too many or less wraps, etc etc. You can drop this step pretty much, after you know by a quick glance that your wrapped the coil right.
Just throwing out a helpful tip that I learned when doing my rebuilds
When it comes time to hold the drill bit with the coil inside the coil assembly, instead of trying to juggle it in my hands and taking the risk of it slipping, I use a 1" Pony spring clamp.
Just illustrating with the picture, but pretend the wicks are the drill bit with coil wrapped around it. Slidding the end of the clamp as far down on top of the drill bit as it goes. Holds it in place pretty well.
I do it without putting the top metal insert in place, but my spring clamps are also well worn from using them for work. So you might want to put the top metal piece in to hold the edges of the metal tube from crimping in. (those clamps are pretty powerful when they are brand new)
And from there, I can take the assembly, and use another pony clamp to clamp the clamp to a coffee mug to keep it upright and can use two hands if needed, if that wording makes sense.
When it comes time to hold the drill bit with the coil inside the coil assembly, instead of trying to juggle it in my hands and taking the risk of it slipping, I use a 1" Pony spring clamp.
Just illustrating with the picture, but pretend the wicks are the drill bit with coil wrapped around it. Slidding the end of the clamp as far down on top of the drill bit as it goes. Holds it in place pretty well.
I do it without putting the top metal insert in place, but my spring clamps are also well worn from using them for work. So you might want to put the top metal piece in to hold the edges of the metal tube from crimping in. (those clamps are pretty powerful when they are brand new)
And from there, I can take the assembly, and use another pony clamp to clamp the clamp to a coffee mug to keep it upright and can use two hands if needed, if that wording makes sense.
Little thought experiment I've had recently, but I haven't had time to try:
Anyone see those "Artistic Coil Winding Gizmo" things sold at craft stores for jewelry making? I got one and it makes winding coils fantastically easy with just a bit of practice. Five mandrels are included, and the second-smallest is 1/16", perfect for ProTank/AeroTank coils.
I made a larger mandrel out of a coat hanger. It's a bit larger than 1/16", and I'm digging this diameter for my Kayfuns and drippers.
I was thinking that the thinnest included mandel could have a short piece of silica taped to it lengthwise. Then, a coil could be wound over BOTH the mandrel and the silica wick. The mandrel could then be pulled out, and voilà - a pre-wicked coil. Might need to insert a needle into it, to position it properly in the Triton coil housing.
I think this has the potential to save a step, and eliminate the need for the teflon tape.
Anyone see those "Artistic Coil Winding Gizmo" things sold at craft stores for jewelry making? I got one and it makes winding coils fantastically easy with just a bit of practice. Five mandrels are included, and the second-smallest is 1/16", perfect for ProTank/AeroTank coils.
I made a larger mandrel out of a coat hanger. It's a bit larger than 1/16", and I'm digging this diameter for my Kayfuns and drippers.
I was thinking that the thinnest included mandel could have a short piece of silica taped to it lengthwise. Then, a coil could be wound over BOTH the mandrel and the silica wick. The mandrel could then be pulled out, and voilà - a pre-wicked coil. Might need to insert a needle into it, to position it properly in the Triton coil housing.
I think this has the potential to save a step, and eliminate the need for the teflon tape.
lol, I looked it up to find the name, but Amazon lists it under "Gizmo."
http://www.amazon.com/Artistic-Wire-Coiling-Deluxe-Jewelry/dp/B0068RQ85K
Amazon also has Kanthal. a hundred feet for about $6. If you used 6 inches per coil, it's like 3 cents per coil. Silica is more expensive. In bulk, figuring 2 x 3" pieces, it's about $0.23 per coil.
So, It ain't expensive to do.
Thanks again for a really good thread, Joe!
http://www.amazon.com/Artistic-Wire-Coiling-Deluxe-Jewelry/dp/B0068RQ85K
Amazon also has Kanthal. a hundred feet for about $6. If you used 6 inches per coil, it's like 3 cents per coil. Silica is more expensive. In bulk, figuring 2 x 3" pieces, it's about $0.23 per coil.
So, It ain't expensive to do.
Thanks again for a really good thread, Joe!
(ecf is problematic today, and it double posted me.)
So I'll ask, could a guitar string be used? A high E string is .010" which is about 30 gauge. It might not vape well, but it'd sound cool...
So I'll ask, could a guitar string be used? A high E string is .010" which is about 30 gauge. It might not vape well, but it'd sound cool...
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There are coiling techiques that wind kanthal around guitar string, but the composition and resistance of guitar string would not in itself make a good coil.
Maybe just using a good old fashioned hat pin, stuck down the center of some 2mm silica, instead of the mandrel?
I've been doing tensioned winds for contact micro coils lately that I'm afraid would squeeze the silica wick and make the ID of the finished coil too small for proper wicking.
My thinking - and I haven't tried it - would be to use something larger than a pin, so it would still preserve some space while still allowing good tension. When whatever is used is withdrawn, there should be room for the silica to be pulled easily through the coil with just a little resistance.
And I just realized I have no idea what diameter hat pins are.
Guess I'm just trying to think of ways to make this easier. Many of my friends and relatives use Tritons daily. They've seen me rebuild coils too, and that means I get a handful gunked-up coils every other time I see them.
So I'm all about saving a step.
My thinking - and I haven't tried it - would be to use something larger than a pin, so it would still preserve some space while still allowing good tension. When whatever is used is withdrawn, there should be room for the silica to be pulled easily through the coil with just a little resistance.
And I just realized I have no idea what diameter hat pins are.
Guess I'm just trying to think of ways to make this easier. Many of my friends and relatives use Tritons daily. They've seen me rebuild coils too, and that means I get a handful gunked-up coils every other time I see them.
So I'm all about saving a step.
It really varries, but I would say the average one is about 2mm (1/16 in) and roughly 5 to 7 inches long. with a point on the end. So my thinking is you could thread it through the center of some 2mm silica, wind it super tight, juice it a tiny bit, and then slowly pull the hat pin out. Leaving you with a coil nicely around 2mm of silica. You can find hatpins online of nothing fancy, ofc.. they dont have a diameter of the pin, I guess you could ask the merchant to measure it. Only reason I know... I got a lot of southern ladies who wear hats to church on Sunday in my world
edit:
( i know you can find thinner ones too, in the 1mm range too, just gotta look around.)
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This is a very informative thread. I have recoiled a couple of coils to test the waters and they were both a success.
However I went a different route with wick. I chose to try a different wick and just rethread my old coils that were still in good shape. I wanted to try the xc-116 stuff I keep hearing about. So I ordered a few feet of the ReadyxWick from RBAsupplies. Now obviously the standard 3mm won't work but they sell a 2mm "slim" version that is perfect. If you have a nice clean cut you can wet the tip of the wick to help it not catch when pushing it through the coil. I found that twisting clockwise made it nearly impossible to get the wick through the coil. But if you are gentle, you can twist it counter clockwise which works as a "screw" type action it helps pull the wick through the coil.
I have successfully rewicked about 5 coils using this readyxwick without damaging a single coil. I will point out one thing I noticed though. Even though this wick material wicks very fast from the looks of it, it still needs the 2nd piece over the coil. I tried just the single wick and omg it was nasty! Then I tried using a 2nd piece of the readyx, that didn't work either. What I finally ended up with is the readyxwick in the stock coil and a 2mm piece of silica over the coil. This seems to sufficiently wet the coil good and I haven't had a single burnt hit yet after 48 hours of use.
However I went a different route with wick. I chose to try a different wick and just rethread my old coils that were still in good shape. I wanted to try the xc-116 stuff I keep hearing about. So I ordered a few feet of the ReadyxWick from RBAsupplies. Now obviously the standard 3mm won't work but they sell a 2mm "slim" version that is perfect. If you have a nice clean cut you can wet the tip of the wick to help it not catch when pushing it through the coil. I found that twisting clockwise made it nearly impossible to get the wick through the coil. But if you are gentle, you can twist it counter clockwise which works as a "screw" type action it helps pull the wick through the coil.
I have successfully rewicked about 5 coils using this readyxwick without damaging a single coil. I will point out one thing I noticed though. Even though this wick material wicks very fast from the looks of it, it still needs the 2nd piece over the coil. I tried just the single wick and omg it was nasty! Then I tried using a 2nd piece of the readyx, that didn't work either. What I finally ended up with is the readyxwick in the stock coil and a 2mm piece of silica over the coil. This seems to sufficiently wet the coil good and I haven't had a single burnt hit yet after 48 hours of use.
Welcome clj74, I've never heard of the readyx but it sounds great if you can re-wick the current coil with it. 
Well out of the few I've done I did have a couple that didn't want to feed through. But looking at the coil they both appeared to be lower down in the tube so I didn't have a good straight shot for the wick to go through the coil. Here check out this link about it READYxWICKâ„¢
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Thanks for the link clj74.
No problem on the link. I have been wanting to try the stuff so I bit the bullet and gave it a go. What I really need is a real gunk up juice that tends to burn easily. That'll give it a real test.
Off subject, but is that you in your avatar? You're a beautiful lady
Back on subject, I believe the readyxwick is the same stuff as the xc-116 ceramic wick people are using.
Off subject, but is that you in your avatar? You're a beautiful lady
It's Kate Beckinsale, but click her username, Evie's just as beautiful.
Congrats on 10k!
It's Kate Beckinsale, but click her username, Evie's just as beautiful.
Congrats on 10k!
Thanks for the tip and yes she is
For a gunk up juice, try Halo's Voodoo or Halo's Belgian Cocoa. Both are yummy, but gunk up a coil faster than most any other.
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