lol dave... i was just back on this thread from my bookmarks yesterday thinking it might be time for a bump 
Triton Coil Complete Rebuild
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Thank you! Really hope I didn't make it look or sound too difficult. Like most things, it gets much easier with practice. I can rebuild a Triton coil in about 5 minutes now, start to finish.
I understand it's not everyone's cup-of-tea, but maybe some Halo users have a spouse, friend, or sibling who's handy with small tools. And if you give that person a nice dinner in exchange for a handful of rebuilt coils, that's that.
I understand it's not everyone's cup-of-tea, but maybe some Halo users have a spouse, friend, or sibling who's handy with small tools. And if you give that person a nice dinner in exchange for a handful of rebuilt coils, that's that.
Thank you Fallen69.
LOL...after you wick question...I went today to look for it too! Glad this will help bump this thread. Great info here
great write up.
imma order some kanthal to try.
not enjoying paying more than 2 bux each coil for about 5 days of use.
and cleaning the coils don't quite cut it.
coil cost about 50 cents or more a day!
(im trying to beat $1.66 / day smoking rate and have not yet been able to at about 3.5mL + per day)
imma order some kanthal to try.
not enjoying paying more than 2 bux each coil for about 5 days of use.
and cleaning the coils don't quite cut it.
coil cost about 50 cents or more a day!
(im trying to beat $1.66 / day smoking rate and have not yet been able to at about 3.5mL + per day)
How are you cleaning your coils? Cause I find mine "cut it" through at least 1 cleaning cycle, depending on the juice.
Also.. in your $1.66/day smoking rate, are you factoring in other considerations? Such as less missed days of work (sick days)? I havent been vaping long enough to really see it, but 2 family members who have been vaping for +2 years, noticed they actually worked more days.
IMO, you could skip the kanthal wire in favor of replacing the Silica wicks, as they degrade far quicker than when the coil will cease to fire on. Plus, you could dry burn the coils between replacement wicks.
I can usually clean wicks 3-4 times (depending on flavor) before the gunk on the coil becomes too unbearable and taints the ejuice FAR quicker than a brand new coil/wick assembly.
I'm on my 5th pack of 5 coils, after over half a year or use, which is roughly 1 coil a week. I vape on average at least a tank (2.4ml) per day. Without DIY/rebuilds, those savings still add up.
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I totally agree with this - In the Halo Triton coil assembly, the wire coils will far outlast the silica wicks. Regular cleaning will prolong its lifetime, but silica is glass, the strands will break from wear-and-tear, and it will begin to fray, adversely affecting the performance.
Dry burning an old coil and installing new silica wicks will make the coil operate like new with very little effort.
Of course, if the coil is physically damaged (or becomes damaged when pulling out a gunked up wick), installing a new coil is the only option.
The little silicon insulator grommet on the bottom of the Triton coil assembly (that has an astounding propensity for rolling off a workbench and never being seen again) is available here: Resistance Coil Insulator 10 Pack (CE Type Atty's, eg. Protank, Evod,T - Lightning Vapes
I've only used the silicon ones, although I can't think of a reason why the rubber ones wouldn't work. It's the exact same kind of grommet used on the bottom of ProTank coils.
I've only used the silicon ones, although I can't think of a reason why the rubber ones wouldn't work. It's the exact same kind of grommet used on the bottom of ProTank coils.
Joe have you used anything else for a wick in the Triton besides the 2mm silica?
I've had exactly one successful experiment using cotton thru the coil and a silica flavor wick on top: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/halo/544677-easy-triton-re-wick-cotton-silica.html
Others weren't so lucky.
Any wicking material in particular that you're interested in? Might be fun for an experiment.
Others weren't so lucky.
Any wicking material in particular that you're interested in? Might be fun for an experiment.
I got 1.5mm ekowool to work, but it was a far more difficult to thread it than cotton ball or regular silica was, and I did not notice any great change.
I still want to try ekowool with the cotton core at some time, but it is expensive so I keep hoping i run into a friend who will just give he 4 inches of it.
I also want to try bamboo thread and cotton yarn at some point, but honestly for P.I.T.A. factor, wicking speed and flavor enhancement... the 2mm silicca is really where it is at.
I still want to try ekowool with the cotton core at some time, but it is expensive so I keep hoping i run into a friend who will just give he 4 inches of it.
I also want to try bamboo thread and cotton yarn at some point, but honestly for P.I.T.A. factor, wicking speed and flavor enhancement... the 2mm silicca is really where it is at.
perhaps Im just lazy but I find it much easier to thread the wick through the kanthal wire coil prior to inserting the wire into the coil housing. No teflon required just twist er through that rig. of course you cant do a dry burn this way to test er out since the wick is already in but Ive found now that I have the hang of the rebuild thats just one of those steps that I dont find necessary.
Joe13 -- THANK YOU!
Without this tutorial, I would never have tried to rebuild these coils. Small, cramped places are not to my liking, especially with damaged nerves and hands. But, nonetheless, you walked me through it, plainly, simply and easily. And I am vaping proof that it can be done!
I just rebuild my T2 coils with 28 gauge Kanthal. More of a nano-coil than micro. 9 wraps. Comes out to 1.3 ohms. Wicked with cotton. The rubber grommet was a pain, but snipping the excess wires was harder. But no shorts and it is vaping beautifully.
My Fogger V2 is more difficult to rebuild correctly than these. But, 1.3 ohms is about the highest you can get with 28 gauge, since there wasn't any more room for wraps. But 1.3 works and vapes very well indeed.
Without this tutorial, I would never have tried to rebuild these coils. Small, cramped places are not to my liking, especially with damaged nerves and hands. But, nonetheless, you walked me through it, plainly, simply and easily. And I am vaping proof that it can be done!
I just rebuild my T2 coils with 28 gauge Kanthal. More of a nano-coil than micro. 9 wraps. Comes out to 1.3 ohms. Wicked with cotton. The rubber grommet was a pain, but snipping the excess wires was harder. But no shorts and it is vaping beautifully.
My Fogger V2 is more difficult to rebuild correctly than these. But, 1.3 ohms is about the highest you can get with 28 gauge, since there wasn't any more room for wraps. But 1.3 works and vapes very well indeed.
Joe13 -- THANK YOU!
Without this tutorial, I would never have tried to rebuild these coils. Small, cramped places are not to my liking, especially with damaged nerves and hands. But, nonetheless, you walked me through it, plainly, simply and easily. And I am vaping proof that it can be done!
I just rebuild my T2 coils with 28 gauge Kanthal. More of a nano-coil than micro. 9 wraps. Comes out to 1.3 ohms. Wicked with cotton. The rubber grommet was a pain, but snipping the excess wires was harder. But no shorts and it is vaping beautifully.
My Fogger V2 is more difficult to rebuild correctly than these. But, 1.3 ohms is about the highest you can get with 28 gauge, since there wasn't any more room for wraps. But 1.3 works and vapes very well indeed.
This makes me happy!!!
How does everyone here remove the lower wick from the coil?
I have not been able to successfully do it without it breaking. (only 2 real attempts)
tried tightening the wick by spinning the thread itself, but it's like it's glued onto the coil.
This was my initial attempt at trying to rewick both wicks. top one gets all burnt after a few days anyhow
and the joose gets all prematurely dark.
So far, given up just re-wicking the lower one.
Great thread.
i never managed to remove one either, i think you need to get all the old juice out of it,
soak, dry burn, rinse and repeat until it's loose
soak, dry burn, rinse and repeat until it's loose
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