Turbocad's finally selling mods :)

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turbocad6

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Congrats on getting your thread up, T-cad! Your design looks great (which I knew, because, well, I invented the internet).
Best of luck, man!:thumb:


say, :?: . . . did you consider putting a magic bottle in there?

. .. like . . . one that doesn't require refilling? That would make refilling a lot easier.
Just something to think about. I mean, your design with the bottle that requires refilling is great too tho! :D


ha, actually I'd really love to eliminate the bottle all together and instead have a built in square tank down there, still squonkable, but with a mechanical button actuated plunger to squonk, instead of squeezing a soft bottle. I've been thinking of something like that for a few years now but still haven't perfected the squonk action of that design yet :)
 

turbocad6

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once I do get the production mod done I intend on videoing it to show the squonk action. I know this squonk design is a bit unconventional and may cause skepticism, and just me saying that it works just as well may not be reassuring enough, so I will show a side by side comparison. I'm hoping to have production tweeks finalized within the next week or 2
 

Raynman

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the on board usb battery charger does not actually work as a pass through. while charging, if you take a vape, it will pause charging for a few seconds while you vape then it will just resume charging. a true pass through would allow the charge current to fully power the vape independent of the battery, but here the usb charging current isn't really enough to fully power the vape on its own, so yes, you can vape it while it's charging, but technically it's not a true pass trough
Thanx for splaining that.
 

turbocad6

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Thanks for that Mr. Mundy, I appreciate the vote of confidence, but honestly I would expect many to at least be a little skeptical. We're talking about a lot of money here for a high end custom mod, you want to be sure you're going to love it and that is going to work well and that it's going to be a pleasure for you to use. I myself am a very picky person so I def get that :)


actually that's one of the biggest reasons I ever started building my own mods in the first place, because I'm very picky and I want exactly what I want and exactly how I want it :) if someone made a really good regulated bottom feeder years ago then I may have never even had to start building my own in the first place:)

some mods are naturally ambidextrous but most regulated squonkers are not. if you look at the prototype mod I showed in the first post you may notice that I made it to be comfortable specifically for my own left handed use. I'm a lefty and I can't tell you how many times through the years that has been a problem in a right handed world. I used to have to modify many of my tools and even many of my spray guns because they are predominantly designed for right handed use.

now just because I'm left handed and I like my mod set up a certain way, doesn't mean that everyone's going to like it that same way, so I'm offering this mod in both a left handed and a right handed version, and you will also have the option of either a front squonk hole or a rear squonk hole. personally I really like the rear squonk hole, but someone else may prefer it in the front, here you can choose exactly how you want it.

right now I'm fine tuning all of my dimensions and build procedures for this mod. I've been practicing this on softer wood to dial everything in as precisely as I can to shave every last fraction of an inch off wherever I can to make it as compact as possible, yet still maintain a minimum wall thickness where it's needed.




here is a picture of left handed VS right handed orientation on a few practice blocks. that's not to say that either one really couldn't be used with either hand because of course they could, but this is more about optimizing it for your own specific comfort and ideal setup



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turbocad6

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I'm finalizing the mod details right now, perfecting my procedures and whittling away every last .001" that I can, but as it stands right now the main body of the mod is 2.25" wide, 4.15" tall and 1.1" thick. to get a door out of the same material ideally the block should be ~1.5" thick, so I can cut a slice for the door, or the door could also be from a different wood too, if so the door would need to be ~ 3.5" x 1.75" X .2"

these are all bare minimum "as finished" sizes, but ideally a block should have at least a little extra wiggle room so I can maintain these dimensions after the block is truly squared and surfaced, if the block is pretty well squared and surfaced as-is thats great, but some blocks are less than perfectly square and many are not accurately measured too, so a little extra wiggle room is always best. I've bought blocks advertised as say 2.25" wide and they actually are only like 2.22" so again, a little wiggle room is always best.

also I'm still finalizing all the details so it's not impossible the height may change by a 10th or so, although I doubt it, it's pretty much finalized at these dimensions, but I hesitate to announce them as "final official" just yet, anything with a little wiggle room in these numbers should be fine though. most pepper mill sized blocks or bowl blanks are usually more than big enough for a mod like this, and many knife scales are large enough for the door itself, if it was to be from a contrasting wood.
 

turbocad6

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I'm anxious to demo the finished product here and I'm getting closer to ready to run production on this mod, I had to build more than a few custom jigs and build some custom tooling to be able to build this mod exactly how I need it to be. the main mod body has a few areas that really need unconventional tooling and procedures to facilitate some of the pocketing and undercut areas with precision. all of my tooling and jigs for the main mod body are pretty much finalized and ready. the tooling for the 510 is ready as well as the custom press forms for the silver battery contacts. I just finished my jig for the main battery door.

I can't show all of my custom tooling here, but just to give some kind of an idea what I'm talking about, here are a few pics of the door holder I designed to allow me to hold the thin door level and secure and allow me to bevel all the way around the door in one shot for the most precise fit on each one. it's made from 7075 T6 billet aluminum with a steel bridge for the right amount of spring holding tension. it's designed to bolt right onto my milling table. right now I'm spending more time building tooling than building mods, but this tooling will allow me to build mods much more efficiently, with precision and consistency in each one once it's all done.

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Nautilusfan

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I'm anxious to demo the finished product here and I'm getting closer to ready to run production on this mod, I had to build more than a few custom jigs and build some custom tooling to be able to build this mod exactly how I need it to be. the main mod body has a few areas that really need unconventional tooling and procedures to facilitate some of the pocketing and undercut areas with precision. all of my tooling and jigs for the main mod body are pretty much finalized and ready. the tooling for the 510 is ready as well as the custom press forms for the silver battery contacts. I just finished my jig for the main battery door.

I can't show all of my custom tooling here, but just to give some kind of an idea what I'm talking about, here are a few pics of the door holder I designed to allow me to hold the thin door level and secure and allow me to bevel all the way around the door in one shot for the most precise fit on each one. it's made from 7075 T6 billet aluminum with a steel bridge for the right amount of spring holding tension. it's designed to bolt right onto my milling table. right now I'm spending more time building tooling than building mods, but this tooling will allow me to build mods much more efficiently, with precision and consistency in each one once it's all done.

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Very cool to see the preparation process unfold. Thanks for keeping us updated! :)
 

turbocad6

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yeah, this is taking a while but I'm still working on this every day and getting closer and closer to getting each machining procedure down perfect, once I do I'll build the first ones out to demo it and show the squonk action and everything else but I don't want to do that until each machining procedure is finalized, almost there, hopefully I'll have something by the end of this coming week :)

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turbocad6

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here is another little peek at developing the process

the lower bottle door is a slide on design. it fits into a beveled groove and the fit is critical so it's not too loose, yet not too tight.

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to machine this in one operation to ensure both sides are parallel and at the right level and angle and distance apart consistently I had to build another jig to hold the material and let both sides hang over the edge to allow it to be cut on both sides at the same time and allow the cutter to rotate around the part for several passes. I took a quick video on my phone to show how it works


 

turbocad6

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3 weeks ago I started this thread, and since then I've been fine tuning the steps and procedures to perfecting and building my mod as efficiently and precisely as I can and I'm just about there, but man it is still a lot of hours to build each one of these even with all the specialized tooling and equipment I've bought and made to do this. this has got to be one of the most elaborate and labor intensive mod designs I've ever seen, but it was necessary to achieve all the goals I had for this mod

from the beginning one of the biggest problems with the dna200 combined with bottom feeding has been size, and from the beginning I've been working on design after design to try and make a dna200 bottom feeder that's not too big. at first I played around with smaller batteries and I did build a few pretty compact dna200 feeders but the battery life was always a problem, tiny batteries meant tiny run times.

I bought and played with many different lipo's and the best size VS power capacity for me winded up being in and around the 1,000mah range, but when I considered that a 1,000mah 3s lipo winds up being about the same exact size as a pair of 18650's, to me it just made sense to go with the dual 18650's as they wind up having just about double the capacity in the same space. a 1,000mah 3 cell lipo winds up giving a total of 11.1 watt hours of energy capacity, while a good pair of 3,000 mah 18650's winds up giving you literally double that capacity in the same exact amount of space, providing 22.2 watt hours of energy.

of course there are trade-offs, if you were looking to run at 150-200 watts then a 3s lipo would be a much better choice, but for the average user who's never really going to go much over 60-70 watts, if even that, then the dual 18650's can be a more logical choice. the dna200 is limited to "only" 133 watts in this dual cell configuration that my mod uses, so if you're looking to vape over 133 watts then this mod is not for you. even if you're looking to vape regularly in the 100-125+ watt range then a lipo may just make more for sense for you too, but if you are like me and vape under 80 watts on a regular basis then this mod will give you extreme battery life and easily provide way more than enough power for you.

even if you vape at only 20-35 watts the dna200 is an awesome chip. I've had a lot of people tell me that the dna200 just seems to be too much for there vaping needs, but this is simply not true. the dna200 is an awesome chip and gives awesome power regulation and temperature control on all different types of wires and builds, wether you vape at 18 watts or 22 watts or 30 watts or 60-80 watts, the dna200 chip is simply one of the best temp regulated chips money can buy, and with dual 18650's on board most will be able to go well over a full day and maybe even 2 days or even more without having to worry about batteries. personally I get almost 2 days out of a pair of dual 18650's, I can easily and safely say at least a day and a half, so what this means for me is that bottom line, it always has way more than enough power to get me through a whole day with energy to spare, and to me that's one big criteria of what I'd consider "the perfect mod". before when I used to run single 18650 mods I'd always wind up carrying 2 mods with me because an 18650 wouldn't last me a full day, 2/3rds maybe, but towards the end of the day when the battery starts to get weak you just need another mod on standby, but not with this thing.


I've gotten the size of this mod down to just a little larger than an average single 18650 bottom feeder, considering there are 2 18650's in there and a full 8.5ml juice capacity, believe me that was no easy thing to do. the tolerances are extremely tight and there is zero wasted space anywhere because I want it to be as compact as possible, yet also be as trouble free and as easy to use as possible too. this requires a lot of precision and engineering but I'm happy to say that I am extremely pleased with the final product. the batteries are spring loaded using a special high compression wave design spring but the spring itself does not carry any of the current, all battery contacts are silver and battery contact is awesome in this mod. all power circuits are as short run as possible with a beefy brass buss bar as the main battery bridge. the dna200 boasts a 92% efficiency rating and this mods electrical circuits are designed to take full advantage of that with no additional losses. the 510 is a self adjusting floating center pin design so most atties should be able to sit completely flush yet you could also use an o-ring under the atty if you desire.

I know one of the biggest question marks on this particular mod is the unconventional squonk setup and I'm going to try to make a video tomorrow to demonstrate how well it actually works. it squonks just as well as the best squonkers out there. this mod uses the italian bottles exclusively but the stainless steel cap is bored oversize to use a much more robust soft silicone tubing to eliminate any leaking at the tube to cap seal. I go over each and every thread in these bottles to eliminate the occasional extra flashing or imperfections in the threads that have caused leaks for some with these bottles. this, combined with my compression sealed 510 design means a completely leak free and totally dry mod. if you do happen to over squonk and get juice all over the place the chip is well protected with it's as remote as possible from the juice path location.

belive me, I am super picky and my own worse critic, I've hesitated for a long time to sell mods because I never wanted to just build another me-too mod just for the sake of building a mod, for me to build a mod to sell it has to be something that I am confident in and it has to be beyond just good, it has to be great, and here I am proud and happy to say that I really think I have finally come up with a really bad azz mod that I am extremely happy with, just a few minor tweaks and fine tuning left and its ready and I'll start building them

here are few pics of the first one off the assembly line. this one still has several imperfections and a few things that are below the final specs but in developing a mod like this there are bound to be the first few off the line that are less than ideal and need a little tweaking... since it was a blem anyway I decided to thin the atty corner a little more than a 22mm atty would require since I'll leave a chalice on it always but the production ones will be a little less rounded at the atty corner. this one is not good enough to sell so I am keeping it as a beater, I beat all of my mods anyway :) by the time I start selling these they will be perfected to the standard that I require, and a standard that is sure to please the end user who hopefully may just be you :)


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a few pics along side a woodvil for size reference



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