Turbocad's finally selling mods :)

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Mandro

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Nov 24, 2012
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I had a request from someone for something like this so I tried it and honestly, although personally I've been doing ok with the threaded 510 pin to the bottle tube connection, after using this setup myself in testing past few days I gotta say that it's actually much better, much easier to swap bottles out and also really makes it easier to get a 100% leakproof seal to the tube.

with the bottle tube going on to the threaded end of the pin there have been a few occasions that I've seen a drop or so of juice in my mods here and there but I always just chalked it up to being sloppy with a bottle swap or not getting enough thread engagement by being lazy and only pushing the tube on part way, but since doing this new style pin it's been bone dry and it slides on and off so easy.

I sealed off a 510 and put a lot of excess pressure on the bottle to pressurize it and torture test it and try to really make it leak and couldn't make it leak no matter how hard I tried, I think it actually seals better than the threaded connection to the tube even though the tube now slides on and off much easier, so this will be the new 510 pin going foward on all of my dna75's and all the current ultems being sent out right now also have this new modified 510 pin :)


IMG_1531_zpsguculnd4.jpg



the varitube 510's have been pretty awesome from the beginning but now with the few mods I've done to them there even so much better. as far as the modifications that I do the the varitube 510's, first I slot the head to accept a flat screwdriver tip making removal and reinstall and adjusting them much easier, then I added the o-ring at the atty base since the last batch of mods making the atty base totally leak proof at the top of the mod, and now this new smooth bottle nipple winds up making it what I think is the perfect 510. I also have been soldering the wire to the 510 directly to one of the brass nuts and it's been working fine with no failures, but I did have report of one mod that seems to have pulled this wire off of the nut, so as an added precaution I also have now made a new copper ring terminal specifically for this connection as just an extra strengthening measure.

another tweak that I'm now doing since switching to the down sliding doors is, I'm now using a total of 6 magnets to lock the door in place very securely, 3 on the mod side and 3 on the door itself. it may be a little overkill but I really like a secure door and since there now down sliding I wanted them to still be very secure to eliminate the chances of a door sliding down and falling off accidentally. the door retention with 6 neodymium magnets is really nice and secure and I no longer am apprehensive about a down sliding door being less secure, it locks in place with authority and it's very secure, I like it :)

The threaded pin has put me off using the varitube connector, the modded pin is a great idea.
 

turbocad6

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ok several will be receiving there ultem mods tomorrow and Monday so I wanted to just stick a few words up here about cleaning and maintaining an ultem mod

this material is very durable and does not need any kind of protection like waxing or anything like that. the best way I've found to maintain and clean the finish of the mod is to just give it an occasional wipe down with a damp paper towel or rag. you can also just wipe it down with a rag with some alcohol or even acetone, it won't hurt it at all, you don't have to baby or protect this thing at all, just raw and clean is fine. I originally tried to wax the mods with renaissance wax before sending them out, not only is it unnecessary but the satin black actually doesn't like the waxed finish and it starts to look kinda greasy and oily with wax so satin black really shouldn't be waxed, just clean it with any kind of cleaner... even windex or more aggressive cleaners on a paper towel is fine. this is kind of a tactical type mod, use it and abuse it, it doesn't need to be babied or protected.

the gloss finish is very durable and shouldn't need more than a damp wipe from time to time, you could wax the gloss ultem but again totally unnecessary.

if you ever did wind up getting a bunch of scratches or marks on a satin mod then you could always just brush it again with a micron graded sand paper. I use a paper made by 3m called zona wetordry micron graded polishing paper. the more aggressive green paper graded at 30 microns is fine for this, even the slightly finer grey 15 micron grade is fine too, any finer and you're starting to get more into polishing and adding gloss but you won't hurt this thing. you can do this with the paper dry and it works just fine or you could do it damp. you could even dampen the paper with alcohol so you don't get the chip all wet, alcohol will dry quickly and leave the chip dry even if you did wind up getting a bit in the chip cover. the chip cover can be removed simply by removing the 2 T10 screws holding it on if you want to brush the mod with polishing paper and not mar up the polished buttons.

you should avoid using any kind of papers like this on any gloss finish though, as that would dull the glossy finish and you'd have to then bring up a polish on it again, which could be done of course, but again shouldn't be necessary, the finish is very durable and shouldn't need much maintenance at all...

here are a few pics of the latest batch all done. I winded up keeping the one with the blemished crack and crazed amber door for myself. it has a rear squonk hole which honestly I'm really loving the rear squonk hole.

IMG_1554_zpsu3vmvfsz.jpg



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IMG_1551_zpsmjqxidrv.jpg



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IMG_1546_zpsmiuqmro9.jpg



IMG_1545_zpsh93gqnks.jpg



IMG_1543_zpsltev5bat.jpg



IMG_1541_zpse9pkgveb.jpg


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IMG_1538_zpsls2ts9ef.jpg



IMG_1537_zpsmikevceu.jpg



IMG_1536_zpszdnxqrgd.jpg



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my original concerns about the squonk action causing the door to be pushed out if the squonk action wasn't from the front turns out to be no issue at all after using my new mod with the rear squonk hole, so future mods will be offered with 3 different squonk hole options, standard front 3/4 squonk hole as all others have been so far, or a rear 3/4 squonk hole as shown on my black with amber door here, or a side squonk hole as several here have requested. I'll do one of the mods in the batch I'm working on now with a side squonk to show it here and I'm hoping to have the next batch of ultems up here within the week including the heat treated amber ultems...
 

super_X_drifter

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ok several will be receiving there ultem mods tomorrow and Monday so I wanted to just stick a few words up here about cleaning and maintaining an ultem mod

this material is very durable and does not need any kind of protection like waxing or anything like that. the best way I've found to maintain and clean the finish of the mod is to just give it an occasional wipe down with a damp paper towel or rag. you can also just wipe it down with a rag with some alcohol or even acetone, it won't hurt it at all, you don't have to baby or protect this thing at all, just raw and clean is fine. I originally tried to wax the mods with renaissance wax before sending them out, not only is it unnecessary but the satin black actually doesn't like the waxed finish and it starts to look kinda greasy and oily with wax so satin black really shouldn't be waxed, just clean it with any kind of cleaner... even windex or more aggressive cleaners on a paper towel is fine. this is kind of a tactical type mod, use it and abuse it, it doesn't need to be babied or protected.

the gloss finish is very durable and shouldn't need more than a damp wipe from time to time, you could wax the gloss ultem but again totally unnecessary.

if you ever did wind up getting a bunch of scratches or marks on a satin mod then you could always just brush it again with a micron graded sand paper. I use a paper made by 3m called zona wetordry micron graded polishing paper. the more aggressive green paper graded at 30 microns is fine for this, even the slightly finer grey 15 micron grade is fine too, any finer and you're starting to get more into polishing and adding gloss but you won't hurt this thing. you can do this with the paper dry and it works just fine or you could do it damp. you could even dampen the paper with alcohol so you don't get the chip all wet, alcohol will dry quickly and leave the chip dry even if you did wind up getting a bit in the chip cover. the chip cover can be removed simply by removing the 2 T10 screws holding it on if you want to brush the mod with polishing paper and not mar up the polished buttons.

you should avoid using any kind of papers like this on any gloss finish though, as that would dull the glossy finish and you'd have to then bring up a polish on it again, which could be done of course, but again shouldn't be necessary, the finish is very durable and shouldn't need much maintenance at all...

here are a few pics of the latest batch all done. I winded up keeping the one with the blemished crack and crazed amber door for myself. it has a rear squonk hole which honestly I'm really loving the rear squonk hole.

IMG_1554_zpsu3vmvfsz.jpg



IMG_1552_zpsna2flph2.jpg



IMG_1551_zpsmjqxidrv.jpg



IMG_1547_zpsffvmhrua.jpg



IMG_1546_zpsmiuqmro9.jpg



IMG_1545_zpsh93gqnks.jpg



IMG_1543_zpsltev5bat.jpg



IMG_1541_zpse9pkgveb.jpg


IMG_1539_zpsqzp6eetq.jpg



IMG_1538_zpsls2ts9ef.jpg



IMG_1537_zpsmikevceu.jpg



IMG_1536_zpszdnxqrgd.jpg



IMG_1535_zpshw6osxka.jpg




my original concerns about the squonk action causing the door to be pushed out if the squonk action wasn't from the front turns out to be no issue at all after using my new mod with the rear squonk hole, so future mods will be offered with 3 different squonk hole options, standard front 3/4 squonk hole as all others have been so far, or a rear 3/4 squonk hole as shown on my black with amber door here, or a side squonk hole as several here have requested. I'll do one of the mods in the batch I'm working on now with a side squonk to show it here and I'm hoping to have the next batch of ultems up here within the week including the heat treated amber ultems...

Bro those look amazing. Can't wait for tomorrow
 

67Tele

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Man, those satins are something else!

I know I don't need to tell y'all but, I will. I had a couple of little glitches on mine that needed some TLC. Turbo took care of it with diligence and good graces. So, no need to worry if something happens. Turbo stands behind his work.

Thanks again, man! I'm really liking mine.
 

turbocad6

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Jan 17, 2011
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yeah 67 tele did have one of his buttons sticking because his face plate was wood and it got a bit tight I guess from humidity and the natural expansion of wood under tight tolerances so now with wood mod faceplates I'll leave a little more button clearance to eliminate this possibility. his battery was also a bit of a tight fit for him so I took care of that too but I have now come up with a new improved negative spring setup so this won't be an issue going foward.

if I ever have any kind of issue come up with any of my mods I try to improve my design to solve it and make sure it never happens again. over the past few months I've made many little tweaks and modifications to my designs and processes and I'm pretty sure at this point I've got all the bugs worked out and am as close to a perfect trouble free mod as possible, but that being said, if ANYONE EVER has any issues at all with a mod from me I'll do whatever I can to make it right no matter what, right down to completely replacing any mod that someone is not completely happy with. I actually welcome any complaints or criticism on anything here and I have no intension of hiding anything. nobody and no mod is perfect and I always try to do whatever I can to improve and strive for perfection as much as I can, so rest assured I'm here for you and any problems you may ever have with your mod, even if you fluck it up yourself, I'll always be here to help and take care of it for you. I'm not just a modder but I'm a vaper too so I know how it feels to have a mod that is less than perfect be a real PITA. I don't ever want any of my mods to ever fall into that category so any issues please don't hesitate to contact me, I'm not just here to sell you a mod and take your money, I really want to be a modder that produces some of the best mods out there at any price.

bottom line is I really want my mod to be one of your favorite mods, not just some mod that sits on a shelf. I want you to be truly happy with your purchase not just to take your money :)
 

super_X_drifter

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I actually think that the squonk cut into the body on the front sounds beast. So instead of being on the front left side (door side) it's on the front right. So rather than thumb squonk ya just press with the joint index finger. Brilliant and simplifies the door marriage to the mod. Brilliant John.
 

Aal_

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I actually think that the squonk cut into the body on the front sounds beast. So instead of being on the front left side (door side) it's on the front right. So rather than thumb squonk ya just press with the joint index finger. Brilliant and simplifies the door marriage to the mod. Brilliant John.
Hey superx, actually the squonk hole in the door allows for a middle finger tip squonk, I didn't imagine you would do it with thumb.

But I mean as long as turbo is customizing it to our needs, we can ask for whatever is convenient for us.

Brilliant indeed!
 
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