Turbocad's finally selling mods :)

Status
Not open for further replies.

turbocad6

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Jan 17, 2011
3,318
16,450
brooklyn ny
wow marcus that looks really good with the abbreviated and flattened curve there, I thought to do something like that before but I kinda like the rounded end too :)

ok here is a shot of the batch with all the squonk holes cut and all of them mostly shaped, I'm going to finish all of the sanding and shaping by this evening so I can run the whole batch through a heat treating cycle to anneal them, then I can start working on polishing and fitting electronics and buttons and stuff :) getting there :)


IMG_1734_zpskxfbjkqz.jpg
 

turbocad6

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Jan 17, 2011
3,318
16,450
brooklyn ny
yeah the white sheep has met with a rather gruesome and untimely "death by machine crash" :(

Ok, I've already put up a post showing the new updated faceplate for this batch that corrects a few minor cosmetic imperfections of the original design. well now I'm working on building the internals for this current batch and I"m also updating the way I wire and assemble the internals of this mod.

one of the things that was critiqued on the first version of this mod was that the internals looked a little sloppy so I decided to redo all of the internal cosmetics, redo all of the wiring with silver coated beryllium copper solid wire to make the internals less messy looking :) this solid wire is 4/10'ths of an inch thick and equal in performance to the 16 gauge stranded wire it's replacing, the difference is it looks much neater and takes up less space, the atty positive wire still needs flexibility so that one alone will remain stranded silicone wire

now I know some may still complain about the look of my home made battery terminals but that's one thing I refuse to compromise on. I could buy ready made battery contacts that will look much prettier but they also pretty much all suck. there all made for AA and C cell batteries, none of them are made for the 15 an 20 amps our regulated mods require so they add significant voltage drop.

I make my own heavy duty battery contacts with all silver contact points on both the negative and positive battery contact areas, my negative spring is .040" silver coated beryllium copper spring wire, not some nickel plated steel spring music wire like most commercial battery contacts, so yeah they look a little home made... I'm going for performance over looks on this one guys and I don't think they look so bad now really, do they ?
1f642.png



IMG_1773_zpspbnahgnc.jpg



IMG_1772_zpssy9n7yq2.jpg



IMG_1771_zpsxifg1tpf.jpg



IMG_1770_zpsfplwtnxq.jpg



IMG_1763_zpswzg5qq6h.jpg



IMG_1760_zpsoeoxhnw9.jpg



IMG_1758_zpsxag0ox9i.jpg
 

The.Drifter

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Nov 20, 2013
1,673
13,340
Virginia
yeah the white sheep has met with a rather gruesome and untimely "death by machine crash" :(

Ok, I've already put up a post showing the new updated faceplate for this batch that corrects a few minor cosmetic imperfections of the original design. well now I'm working on building the internals for this current batch and I"m also updating the way I wire and assemble the internals of this mod.

one of the things that was critiqued on the first version of this mod was that the internals looked a little sloppy so I decided to redo all of the internal cosmetics, redo all of the wiring with silver coated beryllium copper solid wire to make the internals less messy looking :) this solid wire is 4/10'ths of an inch thick and equal in performance to the 16 gauge stranded wire it's replacing, the difference is it looks much neater and takes up less space, the atty positive wire still needs flexibility so that one alone will remain stranded silicone wire

now I know some may still complain about the look of my home made battery terminals but that's one thing I refuse to compromise on. I could buy ready made battery contacts that will look much prettier but they also pretty much all suck. there all made for AA and C cell batteries, none of them are made for the 15 an 20 amps our regulated mods require so they add significant voltage drop.

I make my own heavy duty battery contacts with all silver contact points on both the negative and positive battery contact areas, my negative spring is .040" silver coated beryllium copper spring wire, not some nickel plated steel spring music wire like most commercial battery contacts, so yeah they look a little home made... I'm going for performance over looks on this one guys and I don't think they look so bad now really, do they ?
1f642.png



IMG_1773_zpspbnahgnc.jpg



IMG_1772_zpssy9n7yq2.jpg



IMG_1771_zpsxifg1tpf.jpg



IMG_1770_zpsfplwtnxq.jpg



IMG_1763_zpswzg5qq6h.jpg



IMG_1760_zpsoeoxhnw9.jpg



IMG_1758_zpsxag0ox9i.jpg


:thumbs:
 

Nautilusfan

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Off work now and had a chance to get some nicer pics in better lighting :)

I modified my Turbo mod a little bit and changed its shape some...well, just because I could :facepalm: Started by milling the big radius on the squonk hole side flat to give the mod a little more of a boxy profile (sorry John) :eek: Wanted to give the mod a softer feel to it so I rounded the top/bottom edges some and then refinished the whole mod to a silky brushed finish :D

so the results of my hack job .....
e2im8jfag52blqs6g.jpg


tq4jn1uzxukkokl6g.jpg


o4snksjj7s7rdsj6g.jpg


90ksyzuktcw9mwd6g.jpg


u4x8rq9928i3dru6g.jpg


i1wzqpk9rbv2a4b6g.jpg


Custom Unicornd' my Turbo Mod :ohmy:
That is just outstanding Marcus!! :thumbs: :w00t:
 

turbocad6

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Jan 17, 2011
3,318
16,450
brooklyn ny
don't worry they don't pass as close to each other as that picture makes it look, plus the wire is not insulated yet in that picture. I won't be sending out any accidents waiting to happen :)

here is how much clearance there is where they cross




and here it is with the insulation in place





also, making sure that everything is soldered really well goes a long way towards safety. some people treat soldering like it's just hot glue sticking things together, blobbing it on there and leaving cold lumpy solder joints that can break off with vibrations or impacts, but I take my soldering seriously, I inspect them as much as I'd inspect any weld I do and I always shoot for X-ray quality in both my welds and my solder joints, nothing's gonna pop off and short out when it's really soldered correctly, you gotta get a good amount of heat into these heavy copper plates and heavier wire to get a proper solder joint :)


IMG_1805_zps93lbvnov.jpg



IMG_1824_zpsjk5dwpvg.jpg



IMG_1825_zpswioa0ja9.jpg



IMG_1826_zps095n1bmv.jpg



IMG_1831_zps0jlq098w.jpg



I use a soldering station with 2 soldering irons and 2 hot air guns and I also use at least 2 different kinds of solder with different melting points so I can solder the silver buttons or springs on and then still be able to get good wet out and be able to put enough heat into the second solder attachment without disturbing the first. the first silver solder melts at 460 degrees and needs 500 degrees to re-wet, where the second solder needs only 430 degrees so I can do these double soldering jobs properly :) I always think of worse case fail scenarios and try to build as failsafe as possible so shorting is really not a concern here :)
 

ST Dog

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 23, 2013
928
1,662
Rocket City
plus the wire is not insulated yet in that picture. I won't be sending out any accidents waiting to happen :)

Wasn't aware of the coming jacket.
Tucked in that corner, it wouldn't short on the battery, even with no wrapper.
Just some ham-fisted type might smash at the crossover by the spring.

I think the bare wire looks cleaner. But I guess better safer than not.
There are some pretty good idiots out there.
 

turbocad6

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Jan 17, 2011
3,318
16,450
brooklyn ny
yeah I think so too but the solid bare wire does increase the accident potential a bit, I agree that the way it is run even if you stuck an unwrapped battery in there it still couldn't touch the battery, because my mod is see through I can actually see the clearance between the wire and the battery when the battery is installed, but still, not so sure it's a good idea to not insulate that positive run when sending these out.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread