Unoxidized SS Mesh Build for Gennys

[Kemosabe]

are you guys using this method below, or are you using a different one?

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-unoxidized-hot-spot-free-cleanable-coil.html

ive been wanting to create an unoxidized build for some time for the better performance, but now all this talk of the chromium and what not has accellerated my decision to change. regardless of individual reasoning, id like to get some tips-and-tricks conversation started. i performed a quick ECF search for a thread of this topic and found none (except for the one above, which isnt from this subforum).

a specific question i have regards the pulsing. i do most of my vaping on a provari. im worried that the provari will detect shorts/micro-shorts and not allow pulsing. i do have a dinky VMod which is mechanical, i maybe i can do my pulsing on that, and then pop it on my provari once its all up and running. does this sound possible?

also, say the setup does have shorts as im pulsing it on my vmod. will these shorts create an unsafe situation? what i mean is, the provari prevents itself from frying itself, am i stepping into the danger zone if i bypass this protection by using my vmod. will a short fry the batt or worse create an explosion? i know my AW IMR 14500 can handle up to 4.8 amps so thats decent, but what if i create some type of short that goes above 4.8? please excuse me if ive got this whole thing backward, but i would like to do this as safely as possible. thanks for any help.

 

[Thrasher]

are you guys using this method below, or are you using a different one?

thats pretty much it. except at this point i skip wrapping on a pin or anything. and just make a a nice thick 500 wick kinda airy in the center.

i do have a dinky VMod which is mechanical, i maybe i can do my pulsing on that, and then pop it on my provari once its all up and running. does this sound possible?

this is exactly what i do with my natural.
with a pure mech mod you can go one step further after trying the method in the link.

i do not even burn the mesh any more. i let the coil itself burn the mesh now it takes a bit longer to pulse out the hot spots but even less burned mesh that way. after the first tank the flavors rips and the fluid stays very clean.

scan these two threads as i posted several pics with tips and directions.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...82050-about-did-postal-over-hot-top-coil.html

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ystems/382423-breaking-rules-but-working.html

also cruise this one just for good working wick pictures, it always helps to see the results other people get.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...st-pictures-your-working-wick-coil-setup.html

 

[MikeA5]

First off I do my pulsing with a Provari with voltage set around 3V or 3.3V. The pulsing has approximately 1sec to 3sec duration most of the time it's about 2-3 seconds duration depending on how quick the hot spot appears. But before putting it on the Provari I check the ohms with a multimeter (Volt meter). With the meter I check to see if the ohms is in the range I expect it to be (for me ~ 2ohm). If I see the ohms is fluctuating I fiddle with it (poking and proding) or just rewrap it if need be. I wrap the coil onto the unoxidized SS wick before the wick is inserted into the Gennie (so I don't use the method described in your link, but there is many ways to do it and my way works for me). I then insert the wick/coil into the gennie (with no liquid in the tank) and connect the neg and pos leads. I face the seam of the wick facing the positive post on the genie. I then with the meter (before attaching the Provari) check the ohms and make sure it doesn't fluctuate and is in the resistance range I expect. Once this is achieved I connect the gennie to the Provari with the provari previously adjusted to say 3V. Once on the Provari I measure the resistance with it to make sure it's still reading what I expect and it's not varying.
Once this is achieved I start pulsing, keeping an eye out for hot spots (usually the top leg of the coil and usually due to being too loose or too tight on the wick but not always since the wick is not oxidized. Adjust tension on wick accordingly, then continue a 1-3 second ish pulse at the 3V while gently proding and poking until all hot spots are taken care of and all coils light up evenly. Then repeat the proceedure at 3.3V then 3.5V then 3.7V until you reach the voltage that you would like to start vaping. Once this has been accomplished I now place eliquid in the tank. Tilt the gennie to 3 oclock and make sure I see eliquid wicking and wetting the wick where the coil is. Once I do I fire up the Provari and make sure there is vapor. Then I check the resistance again using the Provari if everything looks good I place the top cap of the gennie on and check the resistance again to make sure there is no shorts, especially because the top of the wick can touch the top of the gennie cap if the wick is not cut to the proper length. I hope this helps but still there is many ways of doing it right for each person but the way I described works for me.

 

[45root]

First off I do my pulsing with a Provari with voltage set around 3V or 3.3V. The pulsing has approximately 1sec to 3sec duration most of the time it's about 2-3 seconds duration depending on how quick the hot spot appears. But before putting it on the Provari I check the ohms with a multimeter (Volt meter). With the meter I check to see if the ohms is in the range I expect it to be (for me ~ 2ohm). If I see the ohms is fluctuating I fiddle with it (poking and proding) or just rewrap it if need be. I wrap the coil onto the unoxidized SS wick before the wick is inserted into the Gennie (so I don't use the method described in your link, but there is many ways to do it and my way works for me). I then insert the wick/coil into the gennie (with no liquid in the tank) and connect the neg and pos leads. I face the seam of the wick facing the positive post on the genie. I then with the meter (before attaching the Provari) check the ohms and make sure it doesn't fluctuate and is in the resistance range I expect. Once this is achieved I connect the gennie to the Provari with the provari previously adjusted to say 3V. Once on the Provari I measure the resistance with it to make sure it's still reading what I expect and it's not varying.
Once this is achieved I start pulsing, keeping an eye out for hot spots (usually the top leg of the coil and usually due to being too loose or too tight on the wick but not always since the wick is not oxidized. Adjust tension on wick accordingly, then continue a 1-3 second ish pulse at the 3V while gently proding and poking until all hot spots are taken care of and all coils light up evenly. Then repeat the proceedure at 3.3V then 3.5V then 3.7V until you reach the voltage that you would like to start vaping. Once this has been accomplished I now place eliquid in the tank. Tilt the gennie to 3 oclock and make sure I see eliquid wicking and wetting the wick where the coil is. Once I do I fire up the Provari and make sure there is vapor. Then I check the resistance again using the Provari if everything looks good I place the top cap of the gennie on and check the resistance again to make sure there is no shorts, especially because the top of the wick can touch the top of the gennie cap if the wick is not cut to the proper length. I hope this helps but still there is many ways of doing it right for each person but the way I described works for me.

i cant even imagine how you can prepare an unoxidized wick on a provari.

 

[MikeA5]

i cant even imagine how you can prepare an unoxidized wick on a provari.

My theory (and only a theory) is that as you pulse the coil a thin layer of carbon is built up on the coil thus insulating the coil from the wick, but I don't know for sure but it works for me so that's how I've done my wick/coil builds lately. Recently I purchased 2 AGA-T+ and that method I described worked out for me on both of those Genie's. I've been doing my builds that way since all the talk about chromiam being built up on the SS wicks due to oxidizing them at too high a temperature. So I figured I'd try not oxidizing them and it worked out for me. The other advantage I've found is that the liquid in the tank doesn't get discolored at all and allows me to vape the tank almost to the bottom without any funny taste at the end.
As long as the resistance of the coil stayes above the 1.2 ohm lower limit of the provari and the wattage is low enough as not to draw more than 3.5 amps (limit on the Provari V2.0) there shouldn't be a problem doing it with the Provari. Since I build my coils at around 2 ohms and use a power setting of about 8 watts it's drawing less than 3.5 amps the Provari will not E1 error on me.

 

[45root]

My theory (and only a theory) is that as you pulse the coil a thin layer of carbon is built up on the coil thus insulating the coil from the wick, but I don't know for sure but it works for me so that's how I've done my wick/coil builds lately. Recently I purchased 2 AGA-T+ and that method I described worked out for me on both of those Genie's. I've been doing my builds that way since all the talk about chromiam being built up on the SS wicks due to oxidizing them at too high a temperature. So I figured I'd try not oxidizing them and it worked out for me. The other advantage I've found is that the liquid in the tank doesn't get discolored at all and allows me to vape the tank almost to the bottom without any funny taste at the end.

I get that but my point is how can you do this with a provari or any vv pv? seeing as the first short will be less than 5mm away from the positive pen and making your resistence too low, how can you even get it to fire?

 

[Nomoreash]

I get that but my point is how can you do this with a provari or any vv pv? seeing as the first short will be less than 5mm away from the positive pen and making your resistence too low, how can you even get it to fire?

It's fired every time for me and all I've used is the Provari, I use the method above for the most part. I start with the lowest voltage setting and slowly work my way up where I want to be. It takes some time fiddling with it but it works and I've never got an error doing it. Just have to be mindful of the pulsing to quick which will put you in the Provari menu and have to wait till it comes out.

Here's a vid with the Z-Atty and a Provari. He's faster at it than I am though, as expected plus he's starting with an oxidized wick. I just basically copied many of those tips to the AGA-T.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxGfAmIcs70

 

[45root]

It's fired every time for me and all I've used is the Provari, I use the method above for the most part. I start with the lowest voltage setting and slowly work my way up where I want to be. It takes some time fiddling with it but it works and I've never got an error doing it. Just have to be mindful of the pulsing to quick which will put you in the Provari menu and have to wait till it comes out.

Here's a vid with the Z-Atty and a Provari. He's faster at it than I am though, as expected plus he's starting with an oxidized wick. I just basically copied many of those tips to the AGA-T.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxGfAmIcs70

so just so we are on the same page... you are saying i could finish this on a provari..

 

[Nomoreash]

I see no reason why not as long as it's not pulling more amps than the Provari is rated for. Lowest ohm I've done with it is 1.5 which I'm vaping on now but I've read of others going lower with it.

 

[45root]

good info. thanks. i learned something new.

 

[StaircaseWit]

My Provari would never fire that setup (instant E1 error), but it's a V1.

That makes me think I may just have to send my provari in for the upgrade...

 

[EDO]

For low ohm set ups there is no point in VV mod like the provari....it just doesn't make sense. Way better to go with a mechanical mod. You get much easier set ups. The VV devices eat up your batteries like crazy....even if you set the Provari at 3.4v the same battery will last twice as long in the mechanical mod firing at higher watts. I used to think that VV/VW devices would offer a far more consistent vape than mechanical mods....unitl I got a mechanical mod....they don't. The new IMR batteries are a marvel....you get a very consistent vape with mechanical mods. They look better/sleeker too.

 

[SteveW]

The Provari is the only mod I have at the moment and I use it for unoxidized setups as described earlier. You will get an occasional E1 with a V2 on low volts but it is no big deal. The unoxidised approach is brilliant and you can certainly do it on a V2 with minimal fuss.

 

[Kemosabe]

someone please tell me: with an unoxidized build, does the mesh short against the sides of the wick hole? i imagine that it doesnt as ive never heard anyone mention how to avoid it, but it does leave me curious. it was always a caution when oxidizing your wick using the old method, but now the issue is no longer talked about it seems.

i still havent tried my unoxidized builds yet and just want to get everythign sorted out before i do. i would have already begun, but i just cant bring myself to tear down my beautifully running gennys. just wn i think im gonna tear it down, something in my brain tells me im crazy. so i wait wait wait until something stops performing, but these ss gennys are liek the damn energizer bunny!

 

[EDO]

someone please tell me: with an unoxidized build, does the mesh short against the sides of the wick hole? i imagine that it doesnt as ive never heard anyone mention how to avoid it, but it does leave me curious. it was always a caution when oxidizing your wick using the old method, but now the issue is no longer talked about it seems.

Never a problem...even if the wick touches the bottom of the tank I have never gotten an error message.

 

[dirtyrigger]

With the "unoxidized" setup you are oxidizing the wick with the coil, that's what the pulsing is accomplishing, so it doesn't mater if the wick is grounded because you have a carbon layer between the wick and coil.

 

[Kemosabe]

With the "unoxidized" setup you are oxidizing the wick with the coil, that's what the pulsing is accomplishing, so it doesn't mater if the wick is grounded because you have a carbon layer between the wick and coil.

excellent. thanks guys. i am picturing the wick becoming oxidized under the coil wraps, but i did not picture the wick getting oxidized near the wick hole. apparently, it does not need to be oxidized there. i was thinking that it did.

but the more i think about this, it stands to reason that if the wick area just around the coils is oxidized, there is no need to oxidize past that area as the electricity wont ever flow there. i just thought that it might have flowed there before the coils have a chance to oxidize their little area.

 

[Kemosabe]

is the rolling paper trick beneficial to an unoxidized build? or is that unnesessary or perhaps even detrimential to an unoxidized build?

 

[Rule62]

My Provari would never fire that setup (instant E1 error), but it's a V1.

That makes me think I may just have to send my provari in for the upgrade...

I have a couple V1 Provaris, which I keep meaning to send in, but haven't. As long as my coils are around 1.8 ohm, they work fine on the V1s.

 

[Thrasher]

yep, when oxidating started people werent doing it correctly so the wick would short, then the belief became "it cant touch the sides or bottom" as well as this advice making it less stressful for newer people to get up and running with less frustration. in fact both are false- once the oxy layer gets thick enough it doesnt matter..


touching the sides and sitting on the bottom.