Using Vodka for cleaning

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jodamon

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I bought vodka for cleaning clearomizers, etc. under the mistaken assumption that Everclear was still banned in my state. Turns out that it's been legal for a few years now so I might give it a try. I'm a little concerned about how PGA might affect the plastic parts and glues used in the clearomizer, however.

I was also concerned with the plastic and glues. Ever Clear is banned in my state. So I picked up a cheap bottle of vodka.
 

Camaroboi13

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For those of you who, like me, live in one of the 14 or so states that ban the higher proof EverClear:

Find someone in the military near you. All EverClears are available on military posts, regardless of what state they are in. Found that out browsing the Class VI here.

I feel ya there...but Popov from your local grocery store can be had for some $5.99 for a fifth, so it's not worth the gas these days to source out your local military hipster.
 

KjAthena

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vodka soaks are required to clean and change flavors in the iclear30s heads....you can rinse and soak those in HOT water multiple times with not much luck and then they take days to dry out...if you rinse and soak in hot water well once and then soak overnight in vodka and let dry for 6 hours even STRONG absinthe flavors are gone
 

lvm111

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The only juice I have a hard time getting rid of is a flavor with menthol in it. Which I intensely dislike anyway. One of the Five Pawns is menthol (I think).

Also Smokin' Cherries from Ahlusion is some powerfully strong ....! Too much for me to handle. I suspect it's a pipe tobacco flavor. Took me a while to get it out of a RBA I vaped it in.

best regards, larry mac
 

Born2Hula

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I use really cheap vodka. And I often reuse it. I have a small little Rubbermaid container I keep with the lid on so it doesn't evaporate. When I want to clean a head, I drop it in there and leave it for a few hours, take out and let air dry. I find the vodka drys quicker than water, leaves no after taste, wot rust coils like water can, and is better than ISO or other alcohols as I am not worried about any residuals.

When my vodka bath appears dark, I just replace it. I go thru a couple of shots of vodka a week. A big bottle of the cheap stuff will last a long time using this method IMO.

I guess I had confusion about getting the heads wet. I didn't realize I could just put the head in there. Will I have to dry burn it after this or just continue on my way?

And speaking of rust... I just purchased a Kanger II last week. I wash it regularly but I don't let the metal air dry. After the first wash I noticed rust at the top end of the air tube where it is permanently connected. I take it that is not normal?
 

madqatter

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Honestly, it sounds like you're wasting perfectly fine vodka :)
Nothing about the vodka I'm using for head cleaning is "perfectly fine." :laugh:

But I have seen someone mention shooting the vodka they used for head cleaning. :p

PGA (pure grain alcohol) if you can find it is cheaper than Vodka.
Around here I could only find fancy and super expensive PGA. :blink: I got cheap vodka instead. :)
 

Jayvaps

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I guess I had confusion about getting the heads wet. I didn't realize I could just put the head in there. Will I have to dry burn it after this or just continue on my way?

And speaking of rust... I just purchased a Kanger II last week. I wash it regularly but I don't let the metal air dry. After the first wash I noticed rust at the top end of the air tube where it is permanently connected. I take it that is not normal?

rust is not normal, no.
 

mobocracy

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I bought vodka for cleaning clearomizers, etc. under the mistaken assumption that Everclear was still banned in my state. Turns out that it's been legal for a few years now so I might give it a try. I'm a little concerned about how PGA might affect the plastic parts and glues used in the clearomizer, however.

I've used Everclear for years as a decent cheap solvent for grease stripping gun parts. I get it in North Dakota because it was unavailable in Minnesota. I noticed recently, though, that it is available in my local liquor store. Upon further inspection, though, I found that it's not pure grain alcohol like it is from North Dakota, it's diluted to something like 80%.

I'd stay away from cheap Vodka, though. I have a client who works at a distillery and he told me that cheap vodka is made with a mix of grain alcohol and a filler alcohol called "blend" which is made from distilled orange juice that doesn't/can't make it into regular orange juice. Supposedly the excise tax on blend is lower than PGA (a gimmie to the orange grower's association to create a market/product for their waste juice). Apparently a liter of cheap vodka, were it made from PGA, would be sold at a loss as the excise tax on the alcohol would be more than price the product is sold at.
 

Vapo Marx

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I've used Everclear for years as a decent cheap solvent for grease stripping gun parts. I get it in North Dakota because it was unavailable in Minnesota. I noticed recently, though, that it is available in my local liquor store. Upon further inspection, though, I found that it's not pure grain alcohol like it is from North Dakota, it's diluted to something like 80%.

Ever tried naptha (lighter fluid)? I've found that to be an excellent cleaner/degreaser for metal parts. (I realize it's off-topic since, of course, this should NEVER be used to clean vaping gear!).
 

H Niemand

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I have used vodka. One thing to note. PGA is around 180 proof. Most chaep vodka is 80 proof. The higher the proof, the more alcohol which is the solvent you want. Lower proof means more water. 200 proof is pure alcohol with nothing else.
Besides, drinking the PGA after cleaning gives it some interesting flavor. Just kidding.:p
 

Ryedan

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But I have seen someone mention shooting the vodka they used for head cleaning. :p

Yup, that was me. The nic gives it a little extra kick and once you dissolve the concentrated, aged and cooked juice in there things get real interesting :banana:

Besides, drinking the PGA after cleaning gives it some interesting flavor. Just kidding.:p

There, see! Now that's what I'm talking about ;)
 

Vapoor eyes er

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I guess I had confusion about getting the heads wet. I didn't realize I could just put the head in there. Will I have to dry burn it after this or just continue on my way?

And speaking of rust... I just purchased a Kanger II last week. I wash it regularly but I don't let the metal air dry. After the first wash I noticed rust at the top end of the air tube where it is permanently connected. I take it that is not normal?

If a Pro Tank 2 it's copper or brass material with chromium electroplating. The rust might be from the coil IMO.
 

skoony

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i rinse out my carto's under hot water.the coil and wick assembly's use a gentle flow of water as not
to damage them.
gently squeeze out the wicks.
i then place them in a shallow rubbing alcohol bath (50/50 blend from the dollar store) and lightly swoosh them around.
let sit for about 5 minutes to get into the fine cracks.
blow out the parts and gently squeeze out the wicks again.
place the parts in front of a fan.there completly dry in less than an hour.
burn in the coil,and your ready to go.
the alcohol evaporates speeding up the drying cycle and any residue if at all is insignificant.
no need for day long drying.

regards
mike
 

Ryedan

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Ever tried naptha (lighter fluid)? I've found that to be an excellent cleaner/degreaser for metal parts. (I realize it's off-topic since, of course, this should NEVER be used to clean vaping gear!).

Yup, it would be a real health risk in vaping gear. It's also a hydrocarbon which could eat any of the plastics in our devices.
 

Ryedan

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If a Pro Tank 2 it's copper or brass material with chromium electroplating. The rust might be from the coil IMO.

Vapoor eyes er, I was looking into this the other day and still have a reference handy that says neither Kanthal or Nichrome rust easily. If it really is rust, IMO it's from the tube. Which is weird because as you say they should be plating it if it's not SS.
 
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