You may not have to drill the side of the 510 adapter. It depends whether or not the edge seats low enough to cut off the feed and seal the bottom chamber off. On mine I didn't have to. It varies from chassis to chassis..
Vapage Vmod XL Rba Squid Rda Bottom Feed Mod
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You may not have to drill the side of the 510 adapter. It depends whether or not the edge seats low enough to cut off the feed and seal the bottom chamber off. On mine I didn't have to. It varies from chassis to chassis..
I will later tonight, I'm playing with the DNA20 chip and carving up the Vmod right now to fit it in there, it's a pretty tight fit 
the center pin on the Vmod IS adjustable, just not in the conventional sense... the positive "spring" attaches to the center atty pin which is floating in the stack, if you screw an atty down that pushes the center pin down then you can raise it back up by just using a small screwdriver and pushing up on the pin from below, right where the positive spring connects to it. i'll get you some disassembled shots later to see what I mean... the positive spring pushes up but if an atty with a longer center pin is screwed down it can push the stack down and the positive spring pressure alone is not enough to push it back up
the center pin on the Vmod IS adjustable, just not in the conventional sense... the positive "spring" attaches to the center atty pin which is floating in the stack, if you screw an atty down that pushes the center pin down then you can raise it back up by just using a small screwdriver and pushing up on the pin from below, right where the positive spring connects to it. i'll get you some disassembled shots later to see what I mean... the positive spring pushes up but if an atty with a longer center pin is screwed down it can push the stack down and the positive spring pressure alone is not enough to push it back up
Bought another trident and did it right this time like I should of the first time. Top is drilled the same and instead of notching I drilled through the positive screw. Much better.
Tad off-center. Works great though. So new people don't have to read back
Tad off-center. Works great though. So new people don't have to read back
I will later tonight, I'm playing with the DNA20 chip and carving up the Vmod right now to fit it in there, it's a pretty tight fit
the center pin on the Vmod IS adjustable, just not in the conventional sense... the positive "spring" attaches to the center atty pin which is floating in the stack, if you screw an atty down that pushes the center pin down then you can raise it back up by just using a small screwdriver and pushing up on the pin from below, right where the positive spring connects to it. i'll get you some disassembled shots later to see what I mean... the positive spring pushes up but if an atty with a longer center pin is screwed down it can push the stack down and the positive spring pressure alone is not enough to push it back up
Spring loaded huh? I knew it could move with enough pressure. Actually looking forward to seeing it. Wasn't something I wanted to try without knowing and not having a back up bottom feeder. Know loading pics takes time. Whenever you can...
I hear that, I didn't attempt to take mine apart until I was willing to accept the fact that I may just destroy it and loose it being functional at all in the process, but after taking it apart and seeing how it is, it's really not that bad, and fully knowing exactly how it's assembled is the first step to really modding it I think
How in the world did you guys get so much expertise on modding! I'm enthralled and impressed and I would love to see the Vmod disassembled, turbo.
I'll never mod mine (unless you can show me how to do that with a paper clip and a nail file ... my favorite tools), but I'll sit on the sideline cheering you on and vaping my DNA20 VMOD vicariously... wow! A DNA20 VMOD! Can't wait to see this!
Awesome awesome, Eddie and turbo!
I'll never mod mine (unless you can show me how to do that with a paper clip and a nail file ... my favorite tools), but I'll sit on the sideline cheering you on and vaping my DNA20 VMOD vicariously... wow! A DNA20 VMOD! Can't wait to see this!
Awesome awesome, Eddie and turbo!
Agree agree agree! I owned a Reo and did not care for the form factor. I wanted to like it. I actually couldn't understand why I didn't like it! After all, so many people just love and adore it. I just didn't care for the aesthetics or the hand feel, the weight and welp, to be quite honest, the door rattle.
I do think of it as a very well-made mod... just one I don't care to have in my arsenal.
My interest in my Vmods has perked watching you guys mod them out.
I have paper clips in my arsenal. You could do this stuff Kat or at the very least put an rba on. You're a sharp one...
So should I put the adapter in by itself and try feeding it and see what it does first?
Yeah, put the adapter on the igo l first then tighten enough to fire then try feeding...
Don't forget the O-rings around the adapter..
I actually haven't drilled the Igo-L yet. I don't have the o-rings yet either. Do I need more than one? I thought I only needed the one for the top of the chamber between the shell and the Igo-L...
Depends on how it seats. The one on top worked for ryedan where that set up would prevent mine from reaching the positive pin. The sizes I used are on page 2 and mine actually went in the chamber and sealed the edges. Comes down to your chassis and body... that measurement isn't consistent from vmod to vmod...
If you tighten down, not too tight just contact to fire, and there's a little space for an o-ring between the base of the igol and chassis then just go with the one up top.... That's a better way if it works...
Thanks Eddie, but without my handy dandy nail file... I am nathing. Nathing I tell you.
I really need to get my eyeballs checked. I thought you wrote "put a bra on".
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You will always need to make a juice connection channel (hole) for the juice to get through the IGO (or any RDA that does not have one already for bf'ing). As Eddie says below, if your Vmod gets juice through from it's hole to the RDA, then your golden. That has worked for some and not for others. In my case, it worked for a while, but then it got harder and harder to squonk. IMO, drilling a hole in the 510 to 510 connector is probably the best way to make sure you won't have an issue. My setup is very nice now and I'm confident it will stay that way.
I think that using an O-ring under the IGO is a good way to make sure that juice will not leak. OTOH, if you find it's not needed, then it's not needed
. In my build it would though change the height of the assembly because I would want to screw the atty down further (no O-ring to hold it steady ad initial electrical contact was made with a gap between the IGO and the Vmod) and that would push the bottom of the 510 connector further into the Vmod.The devil is in the details ...
And also, as I think you pointed out to me Eddie, it might be possible to chamfer the bottom corner of the RDA to get around this. I just wouldn't go all the way around as that would make it too easy to screw the atty too far into the Vmod and have a safety issue with the gasket in the 510 connection. Does that make any sense?
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I will later tonight, I'm playing with the DNA20 chip and carving up the Vmod right now to fit it in there, it's a pretty tight fit
the center pin on the Vmod IS adjustable, just not in the conventional sense... the positive "spring" attaches to the center atty pin which is floating in the stack, if you screw an atty down that pushes the center pin down then you can raise it back up by just using a small screwdriver and pushing up on the pin from below, right where the positive spring connects to it. i'll get you some disassembled shots later to see what I mean... the positive spring pushes up but if an atty with a longer center pin is screwed down it can push the stack down and the positive spring pressure alone is not enough to push it back up
Looking forward also to the pics! Turbocad, are the metal components above and below the 510 connection basically a tube with an insulated (probably with plastic) inner core? Is this assembly molded in or press fit in, or screwed in, after molding?
Sorry for all the questions, but I saw my chance and went for it
tomorrow I'll show you the whole breakdown and post up all the guts, for tonight I just got this
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