VapeCige Vtbox200

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calpis

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Order date: Aug 05, 2015 15:13:42 PM
Delivery date: 9/28/15

Opened the box and they sent me the Red/Black instead of the Black/White :/
Going to have to open a ticket with GB.

oQLVLUm.jpg
 
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sd3614

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Order date: Aug 05, 2015 15:13:42 PM
Delivery date: 9/28/15

Opened the box and they sent me the Red/Black instead of the Black/White :/
Going to have to open a ticket with GB.

oQLVLUm.jpg

Well you should see if it has the corrected battery pin to see if this one is revised in any way. If my White/Black was here I'd swap you. Been looking at ordering a Red one :)
 
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calpis

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Well you should see if it has the corrected battery pin to see if this one is revised in any way. If my White/Black was here I'd swap you. Been looking at ordering a Red one :)

The deans are in the correct position. The door is no longer magnetic and is just screwed in with hex cap screws. The battery is a real tight fit inside with the connectors and wires. My down button sticks.... :/

As far as the trade, I'm going to wait and see what GB does to resolve this first.
 
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sd3614

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The deans are in the correct position. The door is no longer magnetic and is just screwed in with hex cap screws. The battery is a real tight fit inside with the connectors and wires. My down button sticks.... :/

As far as the trade, I'm going to wait and see what GB does to resolve this first.

No more magnetic door? And a sticky button. These guys (VC) are just all over the place. I had bought an extra battery and balance charger thinking I could swap easily "if" I wanted, having to unscrew the cover makes that a PITA.

Man I wish I had not bought the extra batt and charger.

And still no ship date from FT.... Ugggghh
 

calpis

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Fixed my sticky button. The positive (+) wire from the deans to the DNA200 board was pressing up against the back of the board right behind the Down button. Tried to adjust the wire but the fit is so tight inside with the deans connector and the wires that I had to move the deans connector to the "other side" of the charging plug. It's a super tight fit in there... I was kinda scared forcing the battery in like that because it was a lot of pressure :/
 

HolmanGT

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Fixed my sticky button. The positive (+) wire from the deans to the DNA200 board was pressing up against the back of the board right behind the Down button. Tried to adjust the wire but the fit is so tight inside with the deans connector and the wires that I had to move the deans connector to the "other side" of the charging plug. It's a super tight fit in there... I was kinda scared forcing the battery in like that because it was a lot of pressure :/

OK - on getting the button fixed.

Now are you saying that there are four Philips Head screws on both sides of you VtBox200?
 

calpis

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OK - on getting the button fixed.

Now are you saying that there are four Philips Head screws on both sides of you VtBox200?
Not Phillips, Hex heads. Not sure what size they are but I had one that fit in my dish off Allen keys. All 8 screws for the 2 doors are hex heads, the 4 screws on the DNA200 face plate are also hex heads but smaller.
 

HolmanGT

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Not Phillips, Hex heads. Not sure what size they are but I had one that fit in my dish off Allen keys. All 8 screws for the 2 doors are hex heads, the 4 screws on the DNA200 face plate are also hex heads but smaller.

Sorry - I meant to say Allen Head screws.

That is really bizarre that they would abandon the magnets in midstream so to speak.

I recently received my black&white unit and it has magnets on the battery side. Which reminds me if you can talk them out of a second unit without going to the expense of sending the old on back ! Great ! But my B&W unit is a reworked model and the finish is a powder coat not anodized like your R&B unit.

Vapin Fagan (or whatever he calls himself on YouTube) did a review of the what he calls the V2 updates units. The one he had was the black&white powder coated unit. He did some scratch test on the anodized one like yours vs the powder coated one like mine and if you watch his test you'll see that the anodized unit finish is much tougher. Just some food for thought.
 
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HolmanGT

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Thanks for the heads up, I'll check out his video.

Also, first time in the 40+ watt territory and I'm getting knocked back at 60 watts.

Could you explain what you mean by knocked back at 60 watts? Do you mean your hitting TP and the unit is throttling back the power?
 
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Vlad1

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Not exactly sure what the translation of this is but here it is anyway. Kind of goes back to a question I had a long time ago about how to identify what hardware rev one may have. And which "early chips" had the problems and which ones don't. I know my board was programmed on the 7th of July but that's about it, no info as to hardware rev's.

upload_2015-9-29_1-31-3.png
 

DARKFiB3R

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I'd be ...... if they sent me a red and black one. Will not be best pleased if it doesn't have a magnetic door either.

Guess I'll find out soon enough. As of 8:22 this morning, it was 5 miles away from my house.

It's 15:18 right now, so there is a chance that it could turn up today. If not, then tomorrow at the latest :) (I hope)
 
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