Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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Mate. I would havespun a tale of extraordinarily skilful soldership in the face of extreme odds... You are too honest lol! Now get some Ni in there and use it my good man!!
So glad it worked out.
So glad it worked out.
Ok, now that the customer service drama is over (for now) I have a question.
I've been using my flask exclusively for a couple of days, what are your opinions on the device and it's form factor and weight?
I've always used tube mods. So this is different to me. The weight is substantial. I'm not sure how I like it yet.
I vape a lot, 10+ml a day. Usually 2 or more batteries a day. My flask has 2x Panasonic cgr 2250mah batteries, and has lasted all day no problem, so that's great.
My only issue is the overall weight I suppose.
I've been using my flask exclusively for a couple of days, what are your opinions on the device and it's form factor and weight?
I've always used tube mods. So this is different to me. The weight is substantial. I'm not sure how I like it yet.
I vape a lot, 10+ml a day. Usually 2 or more batteries a day. My flask has 2x Panasonic cgr 2250mah batteries, and has lasted all day no problem, so that's great.
My only issue is the overall weight I suppose.
I find it a tad heavy too, especially whilst driving and trying to use the steering wheel - other than that I have no complaints, bloody love the thing.
It is quite large, and a bit heavy. But thats engineering, performance comes at a cost.
I've have been trying follow this thread dutifully, but can someone please explain why the Waida flask is generally considered the better one?
I've have been trying follow this thread dutifully, but can someone please explain why the Waida flask is generally considered the better one?
I will say after 12 evolv DNA40s I prefer the clone chips 
now isn't that a bomb! I tested dozens of clone DNA30s all but one were inferior and that was a SX300m by Yihi which is a clone DNA30 with guess what? reverse polarity protection! Yes!
Sorry to say the DNA40 is like Windows Vista and everyone loved that
Oh I need to pull the battery my screen has scrambled
now isn't that a bomb! I tested dozens of clone DNA30s all but one were inferior and that was a SX300m by Yihi which is a clone DNA30 with guess what? reverse polarity protection! Yes! Sorry to say the DNA40 is like Windows Vista and everyone loved that
Oh I need to pull the battery my screen has scrambled
It's both heaviest and largest of my three mods:
The Smok also has 2 x 18650 batteries (but fixed), but the VF feels a good bit weightier still. Not all that surprising as it's bigger and no doubt has thicker metal.
I really like the form factor, the flask shape just feels great in the hand. I really don't notice the weight, at least not so far. Anson makes a good point about the car, I'll have to see what it's like there. I've already been thinking that I want to get myself a mini mod for car use, perhaps even a mech (18350 perhaps.)
But in some ways the flask might feel better than what I have currently - at least than the Smok - because of how nicely it fits inside the hand. That's my hope, anyway! I can see the weight getting a bit much after a while, as I do often hold my mod permanently in my hand while I drive.
No problems with flush fits yet either, everything has screwed on well enough. Not as smoothly as my iStick, which has been super buttery on absolutely everything I've tried. So far about the same as my Smok I'd say, which has a sprung pin but a very tight one.
The Smok also has 2 x 18650 batteries (but fixed), but the VF feels a good bit weightier still. Not all that surprising as it's bigger and no doubt has thicker metal.
I really like the form factor, the flask shape just feels great in the hand. I really don't notice the weight, at least not so far. Anson makes a good point about the car, I'll have to see what it's like there. I've already been thinking that I want to get myself a mini mod for car use, perhaps even a mech (18350 perhaps.)
But in some ways the flask might feel better than what I have currently - at least than the Smok - because of how nicely it fits inside the hand. That's my hope, anyway! I can see the weight getting a bit much after a while, as I do often hold my mod permanently in my hand while I drive.
No problems with flush fits yet either, everything has screwed on well enough. Not as smoothly as my iStick, which has been super buttery on absolutely everything I've tried. So far about the same as my Smok I'd say, which has a sprung pin but a very tight one.
I will say after 12 evolv DNA40s I prefer the clone chips
Wait, the Yihi SX chips are just DNA clones with a couple of minor features added?? Or that one was at least?
I thought the Yihi chips were really different - all that 'gravity sensor' nonsense (yeah, holding the mod upright and then tilting it left/right is really a great way to change wattage, good thinking there! How about to fire, I throw it across the room?)
Or is that more recent and they started out with a clone?
Because the Waida is closer to a 1:1 clone at least aesthetically, chipsets are pretty even as far as I can tell, however I'm waiting for my Waida clone to get here on Monday then I will be able to give a more detailed side by side and performance comparison to the kangxin and authentic
Sorry but I think the smok is fugly.
Vaporshark does not appeal to me. (Screen on the bottom would drive me nuts) perhaps thats an attempt to mask the screen glitch and other anomalies
Hana is just plain and not appealing
The flask shape just lends itself perfect for the purpose, and feels natural in the hand.
Vaporshark does not appeal to me. (Screen on the bottom would drive me nuts) perhaps thats an attempt to mask the screen glitch and other anomalies
Hana is just plain and not appealing
The flask shape just lends itself perfect for the purpose, and feels natural in the hand.
Things that I don't like, so far:
I don't know for sure how much of this is specific to the clone versus the genuine? Besides 5, which I know is standard.
I'm guessing the most major one, no live display of resistance, is also taken from the genuine; ditto the live volts.
Then I'm thinking 4 - the excess New Up - is almost certainly specific to the clone, as that feels like a cloner playing it safe by making it ask that always, even when not really necessary.
None of this is major of course, I really like it! And I've not even tried the most important bit yet, TC.
- No live display of resistance.
- It does detect atty removal, changing ohms to 0.00, but otherwise the ohms only updates on fire. My iStick refreshes the ohm display live.
- I find this odd because the chip obviously has live ohm reading, else TC couldn't work. Unless maybe it only does that in TC mode?
- No live display of volts, only while firing.
- Very minor issue for me as I'm not used to dealing with volts anyway, but it's another thing the iStick does and I'm surprised to see missing. I suppose it goes hand in hand with not displaying the ohms live.
- The screen flashes a bit when you hit fire
- Asking "New Up / Same down" unnecessarily - e.g. when taking off and putting back on the same coil; and indeed, doing it at all when TC is off and there's no point to it.
- No way to turn it off, as such - just lock it and wait for the auto shutdown. Not a big deal.
I don't know for sure how much of this is specific to the clone versus the genuine? Besides 5, which I know is standard.
I'm guessing the most major one, no live display of resistance, is also taken from the genuine; ditto the live volts.
Then I'm thinking 4 - the excess New Up - is almost certainly specific to the clone, as that feels like a cloner playing it safe by making it ask that always, even when not really necessary.
None of this is major of course, I really like it! And I've not even tried the most important bit yet, TC.
Oh for sure, the Smok is just a grunting grey box. And has lots of annoyances. Its point, at least for me, is that it's an 80W mod (that fires down to 0.2, which was good until the VF), with decent internal battery for not much money. And the double-digit ohm display has been useful to me as I don't yet have a standalone ohms reader. Other than that it's inferior in every way to the iStick.
Never seen those others in person, but from the pictures I'd definitely agree. Screen on the bottom is just ridiculous.
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Also the 3 vapedroid B2-D1 Mk.2 US 3d printed dual 18650 DNA40 mods I built have a good feel in the hand.
Unfortunately looks like vapedroid no longer has them listed at shapeways.
Unfortunately looks like vapedroid no longer has them listed at shapeways.
So based on the progression of the previous VF / DNA clones, I'm hoping there's a chance that we'll see a 50+W DNA 40 clone.
That's certainly happened with the non-TC clones - there's a 50W VF 2.0 clone out from Kangxin, I believe (or is that the Infinite one?)
I suppose the difficulty now is the TC - perhaps adding watts to a TC device is not nearly as straightforward. But if so, perhaps it would be possible to have a clone that does 40W in TC but 50 or 60W in non-TC mode. I'd get that for sure.
Oh, and I hope they do it with multiple colours, too. I do really dig that red Kangxin VF 40 The build quality of the Waidea was more important overall, but if I could have both..!
Here's Nicole's review of the Waidea, if you didn't see it yet. It describes quit a bit of the difference between this and the Kangxin, which she reviewed a while ago.
Waidea Vaporflask DNA40 Clone Review | Vaping Cheap
That's certainly happened with the non-TC clones - there's a 50W VF 2.0 clone out from Kangxin, I believe (or is that the Infinite one?)
I suppose the difficulty now is the TC - perhaps adding watts to a TC device is not nearly as straightforward. But if so, perhaps it would be possible to have a clone that does 40W in TC but 50 or 60W in non-TC mode. I'd get that for sure.
Oh, and I hope they do it with multiple colours, too. I do really dig that red Kangxin VF 40
The build quality of the Waidea was more important overall, but if I could have both..!Here's Nicole's review of the Waidea, if you didn't see it yet. It describes quit a bit of the difference between this and the Kangxin, which she reviewed a while ago.
Waidea Vaporflask DNA40 Clone Review | Vaping Cheap
Wow that's pretty cool actually! I assume it was quite cheap?
I personally don't see the need with tp to have to exceed 40 watts, I can run all day long 30-35 watts 450° with .13 .14 ohm tight twisted 28/30 ni200 and chuck satisfying flavorful clouds using a Lemo, Lemo drop, whistling Delta2.So based on the progression of the previous VF / DNA clones, I'm hoping there's a chance that we'll see a 50+W DNA 40 clone.
That's certainly happened with the non-TC clones - there's a 50W VF 2.0 clone out from Kangxin, I believe (or is that the Infinite one?)
I suppose the difficulty now is the TC - perhaps adding watts to a TC device is not nearly as straightforward. But if so, perhaps it would be possible to have a clone that does 40W in TC but 50 or 60W in non-TC mode. I'd get that for sure.
Oh, and I hope they do it with multiple colours, too. I do really dig that red Kangxin VF 40
Here's Nicole's review of the Waidea, if you didn't see it yet. It describes quit a bit of the difference between this and the Kangxin, which she reviewed a while ago.
Waidea Vaporflask DNA40 Clone Review | Vaping Cheap
Once all bugs in TP devices are worked out and there are several, and when they become more noob friendly I can forsee crazy high wattage and the wattwars become a brief subnote in vaping history.
Well, Vapedroid's newest model is by reservation only, and $325 for the DNA 40 single 28650 model, before you start adding options.
The SX300 is not a DNA30 clone, exactly, either in form factor, features, or output. Yihi's SX130 is their board that directly competes with the DNA30 in output wattage and form factor, and even it has more features than the DNA30, like reverse battery protection, the ability to buck/step down (albeit using PWM), direct DC mode, and memory presets.
As for the live display thing on the Waidea or Kangxin, it's a copy of Evolv's board, and it does just like Evolv does with the DNA30 and DNA40, which is to only update voltage while firing, and ohms after it's been fired once. The resistance thing in TP mode sort of makes sense, actually, since once you've said "new or same" about the coil, the large swings in the resistance while firing it and until it cools would just be confusing for the average user.
The iStick 50 is sort of unique in its live display of resistance, etc.
Oh, and Bloke? Take some of that Tesco/shipping money you saved and buy a standalone 510 ohm reader. Just too handy not to have, especially when building with NI200. Also makes a darn good build surface, and will settle the argument over which of your mods is the most accurate.
The SX300 is not a DNA30 clone, exactly, either in form factor, features, or output. Yihi's SX130 is their board that directly competes with the DNA30 in output wattage and form factor, and even it has more features than the DNA30, like reverse battery protection, the ability to buck/step down (albeit using PWM), direct DC mode, and memory presets.
As for the live display thing on the Waidea or Kangxin, it's a copy of Evolv's board, and it does just like Evolv does with the DNA30 and DNA40, which is to only update voltage while firing, and ohms after it's been fired once. The resistance thing in TP mode sort of makes sense, actually, since once you've said "new or same" about the coil, the large swings in the resistance while firing it and until it cools would just be confusing for the average user.
The iStick 50 is sort of unique in its live display of resistance, etc.
Oh, and Bloke? Take some of that Tesco/shipping money you saved and buy a standalone 510 ohm reader. Just too handy not to have, especially when building with NI200. Also makes a darn good build surface, and will settle the argument over which of your mods is the most accurate.
Spot on.......if mega watts equaled best flavor we all would be carrying around car batteries... lol....
Fair enough, yes I suppose a lot of the reason for the higher wattages just doesn't apply with temp working well (enough).
Hmm, twisted nickel, yes I need to make some of that.
What's the benefit of 28 twisted with 30, versus 2 x 28 or 2 x 30? Does the two different sizes provide a particular benefit, or are those two together simply the right compromise to get the right thickness/resistance that you like?
Hmm, twisted nickel, yes I need to make some of that.
What's the benefit of 28 twisted with 30, versus 2 x 28 or 2 x 30? Does the two different sizes provide a particular benefit, or are those two together simply the right compromise to get the right thickness/resistance that you like?
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