Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[Croak]

Just a bunch of bits and pieces here (thinking out loud).
Evolv sent back the two boards that I sent in for screen replacement, they sent back two brand new boards. Kudos to Evolv.
W Flask reports "atomizer low" at 0.07Ω.
My friend got his W clone yesterday also, he ask why he had to turn it up to 24 watts to achieve his 20 watt vape. I'll get on to figuring that out here shortly.
When I first got tracking email from USA warehouse it only said "Pre-Shipment Info Sent to USPS" or whatever. I thought Focal was still sing on it but my bad, USPS in North Carolina never scanned it. Came Priority and with juice.

Yeah, the Rayn board only works down to 0.1. Evolv's board technically works below that, but with a soft-limiter that cuts power quite a bit for builds that low.

I ran an additional 22ga stranded copper ground off the empty ground pad on the board, and attached it to the 510 alongside the existing 510 connection. That seemed to have cleared up some of the performance drop-off as battery charge dropped, but it's still not ideal. Also noticed that one tube performs better than the other, probably also related to grounding.

It works with two batteries installed, but with just one in the tube under the 510 it works much much better...with both batteries or just one installed in the tube opposite the 510 it runs at lower wattage and just feels weaker at the same temp settings.

Gonna tear it apart again tomorrow and try to run a chassis ground somewhere, and install a ring terminal on the 510 and ditch that cable (though I have the cable soldered to the brass nut).

 

[WeirdWillie]

BTW the Ohm reading is stable with the FD v3.

Yeah after doing mine last week it's been stable can be, although I did also do an authentic board swap too but that shouldn't matter.
I think the statement Waidea made about opting to use a fixed 510 versed a spring loaded 510 is just a cop out to try and compensate for either lack of mod building skills, lack of true understanding of product knowledge of both the VF and the DNA40.

As far as chassis grounding goes my AA-DUCT 902LP electrically conductive silver epoxy trick is an easy, reliable, cheap fix without having to reinvent the wheel or the flask so to speak.

Waidea's attempt for a ground was comical, if not sad considering the quality and craftsmanship of the rest of the unit.

 

[ThunderDan]

So who is going to start a Waidea VF ground issue repair service? Haha.

 

[sando7]

yep i'd be a paying customer fer sure!^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[HolmanGT]

After building on 3 Lemos every day for so long I'm just used to using the post holes and have perfected where to pre-bend the wire. Going to try wrapping around the screws tonight.

-Treeburner

Sorry Treeburner, I never received a notice that you responded. Don't know if the new system just doesn't like or if I am doing something wrong.

Anyway I think you will like the screws just leave the mandrel in when you tighten the screw. That will prevent the coil from twisting. It should work a lot better not heating up the long lead that are not generating vapor for you.

 

[BlueridgeDog]

Once I did that top plate clean-up and torque, it started working great again, preheat on a cold/cool coil, voltage staying in the high teens/twenties while drawing, etc.

Interesting. I have two out of my three that seem to stop working, and I take them apart and do nothing but clean them and they start working (top plate). Can you elaborate as to how you see that impacting the ground?

 

[dwcraig1]

Interesting. I have two out of my three that seem to stop working, and I take them apart and do nothing but clean them and they start working (top plate). Can you elaborate as to how you see that impacting the ground?

So you have three Waidea VF's?

 

[BlueridgeDog]

So you have three Waidea VF's?

I have one of the original ones, a V2 with the improved chip and USB, and a V2 w/o USB. I have lost track of the manufactures as I have not been on the forum in a bit due to workload.

 

[Croak]

Does it say V3 on the bottom? If so, it's a Kangxin, and it doesn't have the same grounding issue as the Waidea (which just says "Vaporflask Made In USA").

The Kangxin units have an internal chassis ground connected with a ring terminal, and it doesn't rely on the top plate for grounding, it'll actually work with the top plate loose, the Waidea flask will not.

 

[dwcraig1]

I'll describe how it is with the Waidea VF. The ground cable on the 510 for output ground is also the only connection for the board for the batteries negative. So the top plate with it's screws must have a good solid mate for any ground connection to the board for the battery. Another way would be to have a lead soldered to where is marked "Batt -" with it's other end secured to the case with a screw.On a Hana mod the negative wire from the battery sled is attached there and the output ground goes either to the 510 or case ground. The Kangxin VF uses a case ground for the battery negative connection. Pretty much if yours uses a sled it very well my be grounded like the Waidea.

 

[mesamay2003]

So after reading all of these posts about the grounding issue with the Waidea V3, I'm a little confused...what should one do if you have one and everything appears to be working fine...nothing and wait for symptoms, have someone work on it, send back. DIY in this case isn't really an option, as soldering and electronics are not really my area of expertise.

 

[Treeburner1983]

Last night I pulled my 28g coil and wrapped a 11 wrap 26g ni200 3mm id wicked with Japanese cotton. I used the post holes again, and again used 316L to brace the post holes so I wouldn't clip the nickel wire.

Came out to 0.12ohm, and is vaping way better than the last build. Also, the temperature is set to 430 and is delivering the perfect vape every time.

Using the post holes may not be ideal, but it makes it easier for me to build and I'm getting a great vape from it, so to each their own!

-Treeburner

 

[damped]

Yeah after doing mine last week it's been stable can be, although I did also do an authentic board swap too but that shouldn't matter.
I think the statement Waidea made about opting to use a fixed 510 versed a spring loaded 510 is just a cop out to try and compensate for either lack of mod building skills, lack of true understanding of product knowledge of both the VF and the DNA40.

As far as chassis grounding goes my AA-DUCT 902LP electrically conductive silver epoxy trick is an easy, reliable, cheap fix without having to reinvent the wheel or the flask so to speak.

Waidea's attempt for a ground was comical, if not sad considering the quality and craftsmanship of the rest of the unit.

Thx Willie, I just opened the VF again to replace the washer under the 510 for a thinner one to get it almost flush.
I removed the shrink-tube now and solder a cable between the ryan-board-gnd (this connection was empty) and to the usb-charging-board-gnd from there the cable goes directly to the gnd on the 510 copper solder-washer so I assume the connection of top-plate is not important anymore.
Still no preheat lol but I can live without that.
Your solution with the epoxy is still a easy possibility for one who needs that.

edit: I"s not correct what I said about the top-plate chassis connection, still I don't have a proper chassis grounding although mine VF works flawlessly at the moment, replacing the 510 and adding the extra gnd to the board did changed something. It seems more stable now comparing before. First I'm gonna use it for some more time to see if it stays that way. I'm also looking for a shop here in Holland who sells the AA-DUCT 902LP.

 

[txtard]

What kind of battery life are you getting out of the Waidea? A set of new freshly charged 25r's at 20 watts or so. .15 TC build and .5 kanthal build.

 

[Tpat591]

So after reading all of these posts about the grounding issue with the Waidea V3, I'm a little confused...what should one do if you have one and everything appears to be working fine...nothing and wait for symptoms, have someone work on it, send back. DIY in this case isn't really an option, as soldering and electronics are not really my area of expertise.

Keep going the way it is until it is confirmed that Waidea has corrected the Grounding issue on the manufacturing lines and people are receiving properly grounded units. Then contact place of purchase and tell them at that point you learned these units were manufactured with bad ground and you would like a warranty replacement unit confirmed to be properly grounded. Ought to be as simple as shipping yours back to them & them sending you a properly grounded unit. If you are in US, & bought from Focal, you may be able to ship it to US Warehouse in North Carolina rather than China.

 

[WeirdWillie]

So who is going to start a Waidea VF ground issue repair service? Haha.

yep i'd be a paying customer fer sure!^^^^^^^^^^^^

If Waidea would pay me, I'd do it, there is nothing to it.
I'd offer:

1. Optional Fatdaddy v3 shorty spring loaded upgrade.
2. Ground washer only upgrade
3. Chassis ground upgrade
4. And maybe an optional authentic DNA40 upgrade

 

[WeirdWillie]

What kind of battery life are you getting out of the Waidea? A set of new freshly charged 25r's at 20 watts or so. .15 TC build and .5 kanthal build.

I don't know about kanthal builds, because I haven't wrapped a kanthal coil since November when I got my first batch of DNA40 boards.
But with my vaping habits, I can go 2+ days on a single charge on 25r's 0.14-0.16 ohm @35watts
There are too many variables for anyone to give you an exact battery life.

 

[sando7]

my money is just as good as Waidea's, maybe better!


edit: maybe one day i will acquire these skills that are so easy

 

[Vassago01]

OK well i have an IPVS2 with a kanger subtank Orginal, I have a IPV mini with a kanger subtank mini, I have a MOXIE avail box mod with a 528 Monster and a Colonial Mech with a Stillaire V2. I just picked up a Vapor Flask V3 Clone and I have a question regarding its performance. I have not used the temp control feature yet since I am waiting on coils for my tanks or wire. But when i use it in Volt mode or non temp mode it seems to fire at low volts no matter how high i set the watts. Its almost as if 15v are no different than 30 or 40w. on my other mods you can really tell the difference but on this VF non what so ever. I cant even get a decent cloud out of my stillaire dripper with dual coils at .7 ohms....

I tried it with both batteries and with a single on the 510 side and nothing.... I am also using Efest 2500 35A batteries.

 

[Phone Guy]

Ease or degree of difficulty (smarts) depends where your standing (to quote a friend of mine). When I'm looking at a pcb with a soldering iron in hand, it's easy for me. When I'm looking at the engine in my car, I'm lost... Cutting boxes for screens, again I'm lost.