Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[Croak]

OK well i have an IPVS2 with a kanger subtank Orginal, I have a IPV mini with a kanger subtank mini, I have a MOXIE avail box mod with a 528 Monster and a Colonial Mech with a Stillaire V2. I just picked up a Vapor Flask V3 Clone and I have a question regarding its performance. I have not used the temp control feature yet since I am waiting on coils for my tanks or wire. But when i use it in Volt mode or non temp mode it seems to fire at low volts no matter how high i set the watts. Its almost as if 15v are no different than 30 or 40w. on my other mods you can really tell the difference but on this VF non what so ever. I cant even get a decent cloud out of my stillaire dripper with dual coils at .7 ohms....

I tried it with both batteries and with a single on the 510 side and nothing.... I am also using Efest 2500 35A batteries.

If it's a Waidea it's a grounding problem.

Step 1, make sure the four screws on the top are tight, and the threads for the battery caps and the caps themselves are nice and clean.

If that doesn't work, go to

Step 2, remove batteries, remove the top plate, being careful with the wiring, and scuff up the underside of it, to make better contact. Run the screws in and out of their holes several times as well. Take a flat blade screwdriver and push the ground cable looped around the 510 in to make better contact with the brass nut.

If that doesn't work, you'll probably need to pull the whole sled out and run a new ground.

 

[Vassago01]

Thank you Croak, so if its not firing hot then its a ground issue? Seems like it wouldn't fire at all if it was a ground. Hate to take it apart since I just got it but O well. Here we go.

 

[tchavei]

Thank you Croak, so if its not firing hot then its a ground issue? Seems like it wouldn't fire at all if it was a ground. Hate to take it apart since I just got it but O well. Here we go.

Ground issues are tricky. You might have a good enough connection to power on the unit and maybe even some firing but it will be wonky in most situations.

 

[Vassago01]

OK next big question what the hell is the size of the allen key for the 4 screws on top. I have lots of tools but my smallest one does not come close to the size needed.

 

[Vassago01]

If it's a Waidea it's a grounding problem.

Step 1, make sure the four screws on the top are tight, and the threads for the battery caps and the caps themselves are nice and clean.

If that doesn't work, go to

Step 2, remove batteries, remove the top plate, being careful with the wiring, and scuff up the underside of it, to make better contact. Run the screws in and out of their holes several times as well. Take a flat blade screwdriver and push the ground cable looped around the 510 in to make better contact with the brass nut.

If that doesn't work, you'll probably need to pull the whole sled out and run a new ground.

What are the Hex screw size? these things are tiny as hell.

 

[WeirdWillie]

What are the Hex screw size? these things are tiny as hell.

T6

 

[Vassago01]

T6

So its torx not Hex? Thank you

 

[Vassago01]

T6

It actually is a 1.3 Hex size bit. So i took it apart and checked the ground and all seemed tight and connected well so I screwed it back together and tried it again and it seems to be firing better now. Not sure what it is but it is now doing something that i had not seen before in my short time using it. If I just fire it with my Kanger mini in normal mode, non Temp Control after about 2 seconds on a high watt it will stop firing. Mind you this is without me taking a drag on it. I am thinking that this is some sort of protection mode. When I take a drag on it while pressing the fire button it will not stop the power only when I fire it without dragging on it.

Does anyone have any idea if this is a correct function of the mod.

 

[dwcraig1]

OK well i have an IPVS2 with a kanger subtank Orginal, I have a IPV mini with a kanger subtank mini, I have a MOXIE avail box mod with a 528 Monster and a Colonial Mech with a Stillaire V2. I just picked up a Vapor Flask V3 Clone and I have a question regarding its performance. I have not used the temp control feature yet since I am waiting on coils for my tanks or wire. But when i use it in Volt mode or non temp mode it seems to fire at low volts no matter how high i set the watts. Its almost as if 15v are no different than 30 or 40w. on my other mods you can really tell the difference but on this VF non what so ever. I cant even get a decent cloud out of my stillaire dripper with dual coils at .7 ohms....

I tried it with both batteries and with a single on the 510 side and nothing.... I am also using Efest 2500 35A batteries.

When you fire it the voltage is displayed on the screen, what does it say when you fire that 0.7Ω atty @ 40 watts?

 

[dwcraig1]

It seems I started out my day a page behind....more coffee.

 

[Vassago01]

When you fire it the voltage is displayed on the screen, what does it say when you fire that 0.7Ω atty @ 40 watts?

I took it apart and checked grounds and all looked good so put it back together and now it seems to fire correct with higher voltage and higher watts. Before it seemed to have no difference between 15 or 30. Now it fires off good not sure but I'm going to leave it alone till I get my ni200 coils to test temp mode. However when I fire it off and I don't take a drag it seems to cut power after about 1.5 seconds. I'm guessing this is a protection of some sort, cause if I take a drag while foreign it (hence moving air over coil) it does not cut power.

 

[dwcraig1]

Cut off time, I'm not sure just how long but would be no less than 12 seconds, probably a little longer.
Does the light in the display turn off when it stops firing?

 

[Vassago01]

When you fire it the voltage is displayed on the screen, what does it say when you fire that 0.7Ω atty @ 40 watts?

I get 5.40v on screen, like i said now that i have taken it apart and put it back together it seems to fire good now. Funny thing is i didn't do anything but unscrew top 4 screwed open it up check ground and screw it back together. I did have to tug on ground and pos wire a bit to open it up enough to get a good view. However i did take precaution doing this.

 

[Vassago01]

Cut off time, I'm not sure just how long but would be no less than 12 seconds, probably a little longer.
Does the light in the display turn off when it stops firing?

Nope it just stops sending power and the volts section of the display goes blank. It does not do this when i am taking a drag, only if i try firing it whit out a drag. It does not do this with my Stillare V2 atty on it, only the Kanger mini. I don't even think it did it with my Kagner subtank original (the first one sold 25mm).

 

[cobalt327]

Not to get all off topic but does anyone know or even have a guess at what board is used in the $46.52 Rcomen Styled Acrylic Temperature Control VV VW APV Box Mod - 1-10V / 3W-50W / 200'F-600'F / 2*18650 / foggy at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping ? In the discussions someone suggested it might be the same as what's in the Kangxin KX-50D, and is also in the Invader Mini, but that's not been verified AFAIK. It was also pointed out the KX board fires to 1w, the Rcomen shows 5w.

 

[WeirdWillie]

Not to get all off topic but does anyone know or even have a guess at what board is used in the $46.52 Rcomen Styled Acrylic Temperature Control VV VW APV Box Mod - 1-10V / 3W-50W / 200'F-600'F / 2*18650 / foggy at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping ? In the discussions someone suggested it might be the same as what's in the Kangxin KX-50D, and is also in the Invader Mini, but that's not been verified AFAIK. It was also pointed out the KX board fires to 1w, the Rcomen shows 5w.

You may get more get more responses if you just start a new thread.

 

[dwcraig1]

Nope it just stops sending power and the volts section of the display goes blank. It does not do this when i am taking a drag, only if i try firing it whit out a drag. It does not do this with my Stillare V2 atty on it, only the Kanger mini. I don't even think it did it with my Kagner subtank original (the first one sold 25mm).

In non temp mode it shouldn't matter whether your taking a drag on it or not. Perhaps there's another explanation for that happening, angle, pressure applied to the top plate , ect.
To check for a bad ground probe battery cap with one lead from a volt meter and the other lead to the base of the atomizer (or ground of the mod's 510, the outside), fire it and read the voltage. It should be 0.1 volt or less, hopefully around 0.02 or less.

BTW, which brand of VF clone are we talking about? Waidea is what I'm thinking.

 

[Vassago01]

In non temp mode it shouldn't matter whether your taking a drag on it or not. Perhaps there's another explanation for that happening, angle, pressure applied to the top plate , ect.
To check for a bad ground probe battery cap with one lead from a volt meter and the other lead to the base of the atomizer (or ground of the mod's 510, the outside), fire it and read the voltage. It should be 0.1 volt or less, hopefully around 0.02 or less.

BTW, which brand of VF clone are we talking about? Waidea is what I'm thinking.

Its the Waidea VF, so if I am reading this correct i put one lead on the copper bottom of VF and the other lead on the atomizer base and see what I get? When you say base of atty just the outside metal park? Sorry sometimes I need things explained to me like a 7 yer old hahaha

 

[dwcraig1]

Its the Waidea VF, so if I am reading this correct i put one lead on the copper bottom of VF and the other lead on the atomizer base and see what I get? When you say base of atty just the outside metal park? Sorry sometimes I need things explained to me like a 7 yer old hahaha

The battery caps should be yellow (brass) one lead (positive) on battery cap other on base of atty. Fire it and read the voltage. Set it to 20 volts dc scale.

 

[cobalt327]

Need to check my mods and attys too.